Opinions on modernizing my Ironman
#1
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From: SoCal
Opinions on modernizing my Ironman
I know this is a controversial and even blasphemous subject around here but ... I've been riding my Ironman for a few months. I love the ride and the fit is perfect. But I don't love the DT shifters and they prevent me from using the bike on longer rides with a lot of climbing that I use my other bike for. I would like to ride this bike more but I feel like adding brifters would be needed to make that happen. I would do all the work myself but of course there is some cost that seems like it would be between $100-500 depending on what direction I go. Option B would be sell the bike and look for another steel bike with brifters (maybe a 90s Lemond or something).
The cheap option I found is the Shimano Tourney shifters. Pros are they are cheap and will bolt right on to my 7 speed 600 group without changing anything. I can get them for $80 and pretty much just need cable stops and ready to go. Shifters have thumb button and gear indicator which I'm not thrilled about but they have pretty good reviews from people using them for this exact purpose.
More expensive option is buy a modern groupset. Thought about a used older group but at Ribble I can get new 9 speed Sora full group for under $300 or 10 speed 105 for about $400. I have a 10 speed 130mm wheelset sitting around that I can use so don't need to buy wheels. I've heard that the 130 wheel will slide in pretty easy on the Ironman frame without even needing to cold set. I'm also assuming that modern cranks/bottom bracket will work on the frame. If I go with this option I can also sell my 600 tricolor group which is in very nice shape to recoup some of the cost.
I have about $300 into the bike already and judging by my thread over on the appraisals forum I think I might be able to make $50 selling the complete bike but most likely brake even and then be starting over looking for a new bike.
So....what would you do?
The cheap option I found is the Shimano Tourney shifters. Pros are they are cheap and will bolt right on to my 7 speed 600 group without changing anything. I can get them for $80 and pretty much just need cable stops and ready to go. Shifters have thumb button and gear indicator which I'm not thrilled about but they have pretty good reviews from people using them for this exact purpose.
More expensive option is buy a modern groupset. Thought about a used older group but at Ribble I can get new 9 speed Sora full group for under $300 or 10 speed 105 for about $400. I have a 10 speed 130mm wheelset sitting around that I can use so don't need to buy wheels. I've heard that the 130 wheel will slide in pretty easy on the Ironman frame without even needing to cold set. I'm also assuming that modern cranks/bottom bracket will work on the frame. If I go with this option I can also sell my 600 tricolor group which is in very nice shape to recoup some of the cost.
I have about $300 into the bike already and judging by my thread over on the appraisals forum I think I might be able to make $50 selling the complete bike but most likely brake even and then be starting over looking for a new bike.
So....what would you do?
#2
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Joined: Dec 2013
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From: Chicago
Bikes: 1984 Trek 770
Drivetrain upgrades from vintage to new are almost never cheap. The Tourney is your best bet, or (if you didn't already have them) indexed DT shifters.
Selling the bike/parting it out and buying another is another viable option (and cheaper than buying a new group). You can find Lemond Zurichs on Ebay for around the $500-600 mark with Ultegra. If you part out your wheels and 600 group, it may help you put money towards a new group. Used 105 can be had around the $400 mark.
Selling the bike/parting it out and buying another is another viable option (and cheaper than buying a new group). You can find Lemond Zurichs on Ebay for around the $500-600 mark with Ultegra. If you part out your wheels and 600 group, it may help you put money towards a new group. Used 105 can be had around the $400 mark.
#3
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From: SoCal
Drivetrain upgrades from vintage to new are almost never cheap. The Tourney is your best bet, or (if you didn't already have them) indexed DT shifters.
Selling the bike/parting it out and buying another is another viable option (and cheaper than buying a new group). You can find Lemond Zurichs on Ebay for around the $500-600 mark with Ultegra. If you part out your wheels and 600 group, it may help you put money towards a new group. Used 105 can be had around the $400 mark.
Selling the bike/parting it out and buying another is another viable option (and cheaper than buying a new group). You can find Lemond Zurichs on Ebay for around the $500-600 mark with Ultegra. If you part out your wheels and 600 group, it may help you put money towards a new group. Used 105 can be had around the $400 mark.
The main factor that would make me want to go with the new groupset over just the Tourney levers is that my current rear wheel has a bit of a hop in it. It's as true as it will ever get without a complete rebuild and new rim. The lack of new 126mm wheels is one of my reasons to upgrade to a new group.
#4
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From: Chicago
Bikes: 1984 Trek 770
It sounds like everything about the bike is perfect save for shifting. Since you also want to futureproof your bike, just buy the group. Surely you'll get your investment out of it if that's what it takes to enjoy your bike for years and years. Vintage bikes rarely sell for what you put into them. But the enjoyment is worth it, in my opinion.
#5
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From: Middle Earth (aka IA)
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Given that you need a new rear wheel, economically it makes sense to sell this and buy a vintage bike that has the features you want. But if you like the bike, I'd bite the bullet and fix it up with a modern drive train. Another possibility is to buy a bikes direct bike with the parts you want. That will give you a new wheelset and shifters. Then you can sell the frame to recoup some of the costs.
#6
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Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Portland OR
Bikes: 61 Bianchi Specialissima 71 Peugeot G50 7? P'geot PX10 74 Raleigh GranSport 75 P'geot UO8 78? Raleigh Team Pro 82 P'geot PSV 86 P'geot PX 91 Bridgestone MB0 92 B'stone XO1 97 Rans VRex 92 Cannondale R1000 94 B'stone MB5 97 Vitus 997
Or used brifters from eBay, either Shimano or (with a JTek Shiftmate) Campagnolo. You can get older, higher end stuff which, in my IMO, will look better with the bike than new low-end stuff.
For the wheels, simply rebuild using new rims with same ERD as existing, and existing spokes/nipples/hubs. Tape new rim to old, transfer spokes over into the corresponding holes, tension/true, regrease hub bearings. Watch for sales this winter, the wheel issue doesn't sound urgent. I like Mavic Open Pro rims if they fit your budget. If you buy a budget-priced new wheelset, you may need to retension it anyway and they will likely be lower quality than current.
For the wheels, simply rebuild using new rims with same ERD as existing, and existing spokes/nipples/hubs. Tape new rim to old, transfer spokes over into the corresponding holes, tension/true, regrease hub bearings. Watch for sales this winter, the wheel issue doesn't sound urgent. I like Mavic Open Pro rims if they fit your budget. If you buy a budget-priced new wheelset, you may need to retension it anyway and they will likely be lower quality than current.
Last edited by jyl; 08-21-14 at 10:43 AM.
#8
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From: SoCal
Doesn't need to be new but shopping around for used older 8,9 or 10 speed groups it seems like it will be hard to get full group with cassette and chain for much less than the $400 for new 105
#9
feros ferio

Joined: Jul 2000
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From: www.ci.encinitas.ca.us
Bikes: 1959 Capo Modell Campagnolo; 1960 Capo Sieger (2); 1962 Carlton Franco Suisse; 1970 Peugeot UO-8; 1982 Bianchi Campione d'Italia; 1988 Schwinn Project KOM-10;
Are you dead set against either barcons or other bar-mounted levers? You could do such a change very economically.
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"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
#10
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Joined: May 2013
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From: Folsom CA
Bikes: Stormchaser, Paramount, Tilt, Samba tandem
Why do you need a whole groupset? Don't you just need shifters, cassette, and chain?
#11
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From: Folsom CA
Bikes: Stormchaser, Paramount, Tilt, Samba tandem
#13
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From: SoCal
Actually I bought it because it was steel and a pretty nice lugged Tange 1 frameset in good condition. I do like having a steel bike to be different from my alum/carbon fork bike but I never owned a DT shift bike and I've just found that it's an annoyance. I do a lot of climbing and my hands are on the hoods most of the time while climbing so brifters are more convient
#14
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From: Portland OR
Bikes: 61 Bianchi Specialissima 71 Peugeot G50 7? P'geot PX10 74 Raleigh GranSport 75 P'geot UO8 78? Raleigh Team Pro 82 P'geot PSV 86 P'geot PX 91 Bridgestone MB0 92 B'stone XO1 97 Rans VRex 92 Cannondale R1000 94 B'stone MB5 97 Vitus 997
Or, Shifters - Gevenalle which I use on my commute bike. When on the hoods, the shift levers are right under your fingers. You can use your existing shift levers, although you may need the flat washers (see Support page).
#15
I know this is a controversial and even blasphemous subject around here but ... I've been riding my Ironman for a few months. I love the ride and the fit is perfect. But I don't love the DT shifters and they prevent me from using the bike on longer rides with a lot of climbing that I use my other bike for. I would like to ride this bike more but I feel like adding brifters would be needed to make that happen. I would do all the work myself but of course there is some cost that seems like it would be between $100-500 depending on what direction I go. Option B would be sell the bike and look for another steel bike with brifters (maybe a 90s Lemond or something).
The cheap option I found is the Shimano Tourney shifters. Pros are they are cheap and will bolt right on to my 7 speed 600 group without changing anything. I can get them for $80 and pretty much just need cable stops and ready to go. Shifters have thumb button and gear indicator which I'm not thrilled about but they have pretty good reviews from people using them for this exact purpose.
More expensive option is buy a modern groupset. Thought about a used older group but at Ribble I can get new 9 speed Sora full group for under $300 or 10 speed 105 for about $400. I have a 10 speed 130mm wheelset sitting around that I can use so don't need to buy wheels. I've heard that the 130 wheel will slide in pretty easy on the Ironman frame without even needing to cold set. I'm also assuming that modern cranks/bottom bracket will work on the frame. If I go with this option I can also sell my 600 tricolor group which is in very nice shape to recoup some of the cost.
I have about $300 into the bike already and judging by my thread over on the appraisals forum I think I might be able to make $50 selling the complete bike but most likely brake even and then be starting over looking for a new bike.
So....what would you do?
The cheap option I found is the Shimano Tourney shifters. Pros are they are cheap and will bolt right on to my 7 speed 600 group without changing anything. I can get them for $80 and pretty much just need cable stops and ready to go. Shifters have thumb button and gear indicator which I'm not thrilled about but they have pretty good reviews from people using them for this exact purpose.
More expensive option is buy a modern groupset. Thought about a used older group but at Ribble I can get new 9 speed Sora full group for under $300 or 10 speed 105 for about $400. I have a 10 speed 130mm wheelset sitting around that I can use so don't need to buy wheels. I've heard that the 130 wheel will slide in pretty easy on the Ironman frame without even needing to cold set. I'm also assuming that modern cranks/bottom bracket will work on the frame. If I go with this option I can also sell my 600 tricolor group which is in very nice shape to recoup some of the cost.
I have about $300 into the bike already and judging by my thread over on the appraisals forum I think I might be able to make $50 selling the complete bike but most likely brake even and then be starting over looking for a new bike.
So....what would you do?
you want (brifters, or more cogs, or whatever) and just selling what you have, especially if
you can break even. That's my experience.
#16
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From: SoCal
You are definitely right and I give the same advice to anyone I know after building a couple of bikes up from scratch. More bang for the buck buying a complete bike but I also like a good project and I'm a glutten for punishment I guess because none of the projects have gone completely smoothly
#17
Death fork? Naaaah!!

Joined: Nov 2005
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From: The other Maine, north of RT 2
Bikes: Seriously downsizing.
The Tourney brifters are just fine.
What's not to like?
Top
What's not to like?
Top
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You know it's going to be a good day when the stem and seatpost come right out.
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#18
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From: SoCal
#20
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You are definitely right and I give the same advice to anyone I know after building a couple of bikes up from scratch. More bang for the buck buying a complete bike but I also like a good project and I'm a glutten for punishment I guess because none of the projects have gone completely smoothly
#21
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From: Washington DC
Bikes: 1981 Bianchi Limited 650B conversion (sold), 1985(?) Guerciotti retro-roadie, 2018 Specialized Allez Sprint, 2012 Specialized Crux, mid 80's Focus MB-400
Here's another option that is cheaper and less work than going to brifters: keep the DT shifters, but convert to a modern 8 or 9 speed cassette. I did this with my '81 Bianchi and I'm very happy with the results. Now I have a 48-34 double crankset and a 12-36 9-speed cassette, which is great for climbing and long rides. I cleaned and greased the DT shifters, installed a Deore derailleur and new cable and the shifting in friction mode is really nice.
Have you measured the rear spacing on your Ironman?
Have you measured the rear spacing on your Ironman?
#22
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From: SoCal
I've been led to believe that 8,9 or 10 speed brifters won't play well with the 7 speed derailleur because the spacing is different. I actually started out looking for 7 speed RSX brifters but the ones I have seen on ebay have been going for around $150 and it seemed like if I was going to do that might as well get brand new Tourney for half the price
#24
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Well I just took my 130mm wheel out of storage and checked the fit and it slid right into the drop outs without the need for any cold setting so nice to know I can use those wheels. I know it's not as nice as some Columbus or Reynolds 853 steel and it's has plenty of scratches and scuffs from normal wear and tear of 25 years but for some reason I really like the frame and would rather spend upgrading it than selling it and buying a steel bike with brifters. I'll probably just troll ebay for a while waiting for a deal. I'm sure more used 10 speed 105 and Ultegra will bbe showing up soon as people upgrade to 11 speed




