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-   -   Rust proofing inside of frame (https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vintage/975432-rust-proofing-inside-frame.html)

wilkie366 10-06-14 04:33 AM

Rust proofing inside of frame
 
Hi,

I live in Singapore where the humidity levels are very high. I just had a Gazelle Champion Mondial powdercoated, and wanted to get the insides coated with something to prevent rust. So I have ordered JP Weigle Framesaver but it's only going to get here end of the month. Meanwhile, when I do shake the frame, I can see a little bit of powdery rust coming out of the brazing holes. Can I use something else to prevent further deterioration while I wait for the framesaver to get here? Would I be able to spray framesaver over this temporary something?

thanks
Bob

Michael Angelo 10-06-14 04:39 AM


Originally Posted by wilkie366 (Post 17191357)
Hi,

I live in Singapore where the humidity levels are very high. I just had a Gazelle Champion Mondial powdercoated, and wanted to get the insides coated with something to prevent rust. So I have ordered JP Weigle Framesaver but it's only going to get here end of the month. Meanwhile, when I do shake the frame, I can see a little bit of powdery rust coming out of the brazing holes. Can I use something else to prevent further deterioration while I wait for the framesaver to get here? Would I be able to spray framesaver over this temporary something?

thanks
Bob

You can you WD-40 while you wait. Note: WD-40 will not last long, it's meant to displace moisture and lubricate. You can spray the frame saver over it with out worries, it's just spray cosmoline.

rootboy 10-06-14 06:26 AM

Cover your eyes if you spray something in those little brazing holes.

ofgit 10-06-14 07:25 AM

A quick search on Google shows that EvapoRust is available in Singapore. I would plug/tape the holes in one section (rear triangle, top tube-down tube, seat tube) of the frame at a time and fill those tubes with EvapoRust. Let it sit for an hour or so then drain it out into a bucket to reuse (after straining/filtering or letting it settle out) in another section until all the tubes had been derusted. Could probably seal every hole from the head tube back, stand the frame up on the rear dropouts and fill the whole thing at once. The metal should be degreased before derusting with EvapoRust.

Chicago Al 10-06-14 07:52 AM

There are products that seem to be equivalent to Framesaver, two I have on hand are LPS 3 and PB 'Corrosion Stop.' Both come out as a waxy substance, very thin at first but it thickens as it dries.

Some years back a C&V contributor was conducting a test of various rust preventative materials, but he dropped out of sight before showing his results.

I just did a thorough de-rusting of the internals of a frame with an oxalic acid bath; I know I didn't get every bit of the rust but with it covered with this stuff (and I used a lot) am pretty confident nothing further will happen.

Ecrevisse 10-06-14 08:10 AM

I use J.P. Weigles bicycle frame saver rust inhibitor. I've used it for years and I have had no problems with rust.

Velognome 10-06-14 08:16 AM

Save some money, Evapo Rust is great for heavy applications but for flash rust, simply fill the tubes with cider vinegar for few hours, flush with water and baking soda then apply WD 40. the entire application can be done for a few $'s and will last for months- long enough till apply frame saver.

wilkie366 10-06-14 10:43 AM

Thank you all! I think I'll try the cider vinegar followed by WD 40 treatment and see how it goes. Cheers!

arex 10-07-14 08:27 PM

I read something once, about using linseed oil to coat the inside of the tubes. Being linseed, it would dry into a waterproof coating, instead of just drying out or draining out. It's supposed to be one of those things you'd only need to do once, but it sounds like a huge PITA.

ofgit 10-07-14 08:43 PM


Originally Posted by arex (Post 17197403)
I read something once, about using linseed oil to coat the inside of the tubes. Being linseed, it would dry into a waterproof coating, instead of just drying out or draining out. It's supposed to be one of those things you'd only need to do once, but it sounds like a huge PITA.


Boiled linseed oil was the standard method of preventing rust in the 4130 tubes on airplane structures for many, many years. Still works better/lasts longer than some modern chemical treatments. I've used LPS-3 in several frames. Also don't generally subject my bikes to water soakings/submergings.

Chrome Molly 10-08-14 05:57 AM

I use BLO on most frames that get taken down to the point where the tubes are accessible. It is a little more difficult to spread out without being messy, you have to partially fill tubes then slosh it around inside. However, it prevents further rusting, at least to the point where you won't notice it in your lifetime. Available just about anywhere. It doesn't dry rock hard, but dries firm over the tubing where it is left to dry. Wipes off easily from painted surfaces. Stains the front sidewalk.

Velognome 10-08-14 07:35 AM


Originally Posted by ofgit (Post 17197450)
Boiled linseed oil was the standard method of preventing rust in the 4130 tubes on airplane structures for many, many years. Still works better/lasts longer than some modern chemical treatments. I've used LPS-3 in several frames. Also don't generally subject my bikes to water soakings/submergings.

You don't have to soak 'em to get them rusty inside. Store them in a non=climate controlled environment and they'll rust just fine. Fall and Winter temperature swings during mornings and evenings plus humidity can cause condensation, add some oxygen and non-treated steel surfaces will rust.

David Newton 10-08-14 08:22 AM

Will vinegar harm an aluminum headset?


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