Rust proofing inside of frame
#1
Thread Starter
Newbie

Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 29
Likes: 22
From: Singapore
Bikes: 1987 Battaglin Giro, 2017 Bob Jackson Audax, 1985 Legnano, 1978 Condor, 2016 Lynskey, 2020 Brompton, 1978 Gazelle Champion Mondial
Rust proofing inside of frame
Hi,
I live in Singapore where the humidity levels are very high. I just had a Gazelle Champion Mondial powdercoated, and wanted to get the insides coated with something to prevent rust. So I have ordered JP Weigle Framesaver but it's only going to get here end of the month. Meanwhile, when I do shake the frame, I can see a little bit of powdery rust coming out of the brazing holes. Can I use something else to prevent further deterioration while I wait for the framesaver to get here? Would I be able to spray framesaver over this temporary something?
thanks
Bob
I live in Singapore where the humidity levels are very high. I just had a Gazelle Champion Mondial powdercoated, and wanted to get the insides coated with something to prevent rust. So I have ordered JP Weigle Framesaver but it's only going to get here end of the month. Meanwhile, when I do shake the frame, I can see a little bit of powdery rust coming out of the brazing holes. Can I use something else to prevent further deterioration while I wait for the framesaver to get here? Would I be able to spray framesaver over this temporary something?
thanks
Bob
#2
Senior Member


Joined: May 2010
Posts: 3,904
Likes: 36
From: Hurricane Alley , Florida
Bikes: Treks (USA), Schwinn Paramount, Schwinn letour,Raleigh Team Professional, Gazelle GoldLine Racing, 2 Super Mondias, Carlton Professional.
Hi,
I live in Singapore where the humidity levels are very high. I just had a Gazelle Champion Mondial powdercoated, and wanted to get the insides coated with something to prevent rust. So I have ordered JP Weigle Framesaver but it's only going to get here end of the month. Meanwhile, when I do shake the frame, I can see a little bit of powdery rust coming out of the brazing holes. Can I use something else to prevent further deterioration while I wait for the framesaver to get here? Would I be able to spray framesaver over this temporary something?
thanks
Bob
I live in Singapore where the humidity levels are very high. I just had a Gazelle Champion Mondial powdercoated, and wanted to get the insides coated with something to prevent rust. So I have ordered JP Weigle Framesaver but it's only going to get here end of the month. Meanwhile, when I do shake the frame, I can see a little bit of powdery rust coming out of the brazing holes. Can I use something else to prevent further deterioration while I wait for the framesaver to get here? Would I be able to spray framesaver over this temporary something?
thanks
Bob
#4
A quick search on Google shows that EvapoRust is available in Singapore. I would plug/tape the holes in one section (rear triangle, top tube-down tube, seat tube) of the frame at a time and fill those tubes with EvapoRust. Let it sit for an hour or so then drain it out into a bucket to reuse (after straining/filtering or letting it settle out) in another section until all the tubes had been derusted. Could probably seal every hole from the head tube back, stand the frame up on the rear dropouts and fill the whole thing at once. The metal should be degreased before derusting with EvapoRust.
#5
Senior Member


Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 2,652
Likes: 280
From: Chicago, the leafy NW side
Bikes: 1974 Motobecane Grand Record, 1987 Miyata Pro, 1988 Bob Jackson Lady Mixte (wife's), others in the family
There are products that seem to be equivalent to Framesaver, two I have on hand are LPS 3 and PB 'Corrosion Stop.' Both come out as a waxy substance, very thin at first but it thickens as it dries.
Some years back a C&V contributor was conducting a test of various rust preventative materials, but he dropped out of sight before showing his results.
I just did a thorough de-rusting of the internals of a frame with an oxalic acid bath; I know I didn't get every bit of the rust but with it covered with this stuff (and I used a lot) am pretty confident nothing further will happen.
Some years back a C&V contributor was conducting a test of various rust preventative materials, but he dropped out of sight before showing his results.
I just did a thorough de-rusting of the internals of a frame with an oxalic acid bath; I know I didn't get every bit of the rust but with it covered with this stuff (and I used a lot) am pretty confident nothing further will happen.
__________________
I never think I have hit hard, unless it rebounds.
- Dr Samuel Johnson
I never think I have hit hard, unless it rebounds.
- Dr Samuel Johnson
#7
Get off my lawn!


Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 6,035
Likes: 118
From: The Garden State
Bikes: 1917 Loomis, 1923 Rudge, 1930 Hercules Renown, 1947 Mclean, 1948 JA Holland, 1955 Hetchins, 1957 Carlton Flyer, 1962 Raleigh Sport, 1978&81 Raleigh Gomp GS', 2010 Raliegh Clubman
Save some money, Evapo Rust is great for heavy applications but for flash rust, simply fill the tubes with cider vinegar for few hours, flush with water and baking soda then apply WD 40. the entire application can be done for a few $'s and will last for months- long enough till apply frame saver.
#8
Thread Starter
Newbie

Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 29
Likes: 22
From: Singapore
Bikes: 1987 Battaglin Giro, 2017 Bob Jackson Audax, 1985 Legnano, 1978 Condor, 2016 Lynskey, 2020 Brompton, 1978 Gazelle Champion Mondial
Thank you all! I think I'll try the cider vinegar followed by WD 40 treatment and see how it goes. Cheers!
#9
Abuse Magnet
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 1,881
Likes: 188
From: Colorado
Bikes: '91 Mtn Tek Vertical, '74 Raleigh Sports, '72 Raleigh Twenty, '84 Univega Gran Turismo, '09 Surly Karate Monkey, '92 Burley Rock-n-Roll, '86 Miyata 310, '76 Raleigh Shopper
I read something once, about using linseed oil to coat the inside of the tubes. Being linseed, it would dry into a waterproof coating, instead of just drying out or draining out. It's supposed to be one of those things you'd only need to do once, but it sounds like a huge PITA.
#10
I read something once, about using linseed oil to coat the inside of the tubes. Being linseed, it would dry into a waterproof coating, instead of just drying out or draining out. It's supposed to be one of those things you'd only need to do once, but it sounds like a huge PITA.
Boiled linseed oil was the standard method of preventing rust in the 4130 tubes on airplane structures for many, many years. Still works better/lasts longer than some modern chemical treatments. I've used LPS-3 in several frames. Also don't generally subject my bikes to water soakings/submergings.
#11
I use BLO on most frames that get taken down to the point where the tubes are accessible. It is a little more difficult to spread out without being messy, you have to partially fill tubes then slosh it around inside. However, it prevents further rusting, at least to the point where you won't notice it in your lifetime. Available just about anywhere. It doesn't dry rock hard, but dries firm over the tubing where it is left to dry. Wipes off easily from painted surfaces. Stains the front sidewalk.
#12
Get off my lawn!


Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 6,035
Likes: 118
From: The Garden State
Bikes: 1917 Loomis, 1923 Rudge, 1930 Hercules Renown, 1947 Mclean, 1948 JA Holland, 1955 Hetchins, 1957 Carlton Flyer, 1962 Raleigh Sport, 1978&81 Raleigh Gomp GS', 2010 Raliegh Clubman
Boiled linseed oil was the standard method of preventing rust in the 4130 tubes on airplane structures for many, many years. Still works better/lasts longer than some modern chemical treatments. I've used LPS-3 in several frames. Also don't generally subject my bikes to water soakings/submergings.





