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What is the single most useful tip you've learned on BikeForums?

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Old 10-22-14, 09:26 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by belacqua
It's surprisingly hard to put into words how the drivetrain noise changes according to whether it needs to be trimmed right or left. Maybe it's a difference of timbre? I would say that when RD needs to be trimmed left (toward larger cogs), the sound has more treble. When it needs to be trimmed right (toward smaller cogs) it has more bass. There also seem to be differences in the frequency of whatever clicking noise might occur.

It's probably more complicated than this, but I've found that simply knowing a difference exists, and then listening to the drivetrain accordingly, allows you judge the trim direction pretty accurately. ...

The first noise that you hear when the chain is moved inward (to the left) will be the side of the chain rattling against a free-standing larger cog that almost rings like a bell, tingly and high-pitched.

When the chain is moved to the right, at some point the inside plates of the chain start to snag on the tips of the teeth that the chain is engaging, but here the cog is engaged to a tensioned chain, which readily damps any ringing, especially at the higher end of the spectrum, so the sound is more of a solid rumble.

I get a lot less of these noises whenever I switch to a narrower chain, as the overall "window" of lever movement for each cog is much-widened, within which the transmission is silent.

Drivetrains would all be quieter and have a more-forgiving shifting action tolerance but for the fact that each increment of narrower chain design is immediately used to add another cog to the stack. That doesn't stop us from upgrading to narrower chain than any given cog spacing was designed for though.

On my second to the last build I worked on, I immediately put a modern 8s chain on in place of the old bushing-type chain that ran on the Suntour 6s freewheel.
Later I added a Suntour 7s freewheel, much better ratios for me. But I missed the forgiving shift lever action so much that I put on a 9s chain, which brought back all of the ease-of-shifting that the 6s freewheel had.
So these old freewheels can friction shift better now than they ever could back in the day, making index shifting even less "needed" than it never was.

What I leaned on Bike Forums; how to make a cotter press using a $9 chain breaker. That, and seeing bikes that I never knew existed, like the carbon LineSeeker or a little Gitane with crankset gearing inside of the front wheel.
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Old 10-22-14, 09:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Rocky Gravol
Don't fall in love with French bikes.
It's hard not to!


Oh crap! It's a non-drive side pic!
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Old 10-22-14, 09:43 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by dddd
The first noise that you hear when the chain is moved inward (to the left) will be the side of the chain rattling against a free-standing larger cog that almost rings like a bell, tingly and high-pitched.

When the chain is moved to the right, at some point the inside plates of the chain start to snag on the tips of the teeth that the chain is engaging, but here the cog is engaged to a tensioned chain, which readily damps any ringing, especially at the higher end of the spectrum, so the sound is more of a solid rumble.

I get a lot less of these noises whenever I switch to a narrower chain, as the overall "window" of lever movement for each cog is much-widened, within which the transmission is silent.

Drivetrains would all be quieter and have a more-forgiving shifting action tolerance but for the fact that each increment of narrower chain design is immediately used to add another cog to the stack. That doesn't stop us from upgrading to narrower chain than any given cog spacing was designed for though.

On my second to the last build I worked on, I immediately put a modern 8s chain on in place of the old bushing-type chain that ran on the Suntour 6s freewheel.
Later I added a Suntour 7s freewheel, much better ratios for me. But I missed the forgiving shift lever action so much that I put on a 9s chain, which brought back all of the ease-of-shifting that the 6s freewheel had.
So these old freewheels can friction shift better now than they ever could back in the day, making index shifting even less "needed" than it never was.

What I leaned on Bike Forums; how to make a cotter press using a $9 chain breaker. That, and seeing bikes that I never knew existed, like the carbon LineSeeker or a little Gitane with crankset gearing inside of the front wheel.
Well put. Also I mixed up left and right in my post.
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Old 10-23-14, 01:42 AM
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Maybe it's trite to say this, but I learn something useful just about every time I log on.
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Old 10-23-14, 04:11 AM
  #55  
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There is no single most useful tip for me. Exposure to the vast options of bicycles and parts down to the nitty gritty detail has been the most enjoyable experience. The knowledge base is equally appreciated. The only other forum that has been of near equal value to me is NAXJA.
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Old 10-23-14, 04:41 AM
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Way, way, way too much to mention.

But I'll have a tiny go.

Peugeots are one of the most loved of all bikes
Peugeots are one of the most unloved of all bikes

All of the previous posters are correct -

Somehow I saw sheldon's site before I found out forums existed. Found out the forums existed.

From here, this forum, my first forum, - I found out that forums are fantastic places and from elsewhere - there are @h0l3s and they exist anywhere but here.

Bikes can be fixed by our own hands,
rust,
wheels,
BENT forks,
bent frames,
recovering saddles,
re-wrapping bars,
part compadiblility (and sheldon who used to post here).

Look objectivley.

Buy HIGH - Never sell - just don't do it too often

and

PUG's RULE
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Old 10-23-14, 05:35 AM
  #57  
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Don't pull the beads out like you're starting a lawnmower.
Wait, wrong forum.

Learn something new every day, especially here and Mechanics forum.
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Old 10-23-14, 05:56 AM
  #58  
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Wow...I am still relatively new to the BF...and...as many have said...typically learn something every time I come on the site (which is now almost daily...)...

Best tip? Hmmm...so many have already been listed...and I agree with all of them...

Thinking...pondering...

OK...here it is...probably not an actual tip...but...I think the best thing that I have learned is that I still have so much more to learn...
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Old 10-23-14, 06:46 AM
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Things I've learned. Too much to single out 1 item. So as a group, let's see....

1. I'm a dork because all my bikes have dork discs.
2. I'm a dork because all my bikes have a kickstand.
3. I'm a dork because I put an upright handlebar and a Wald newspaper boy big basket on one of my road bikes.
4. I'm a dork because I visit this site everyday and put to use much of the info I discover here.
5. I'm a dork because I have a china mart bike in my stable.
6. I'm a dork because I put these little animations in some of my posts.

But seriously folks,, this site is my favorite. So much helpful info for free! And the members are almost always civil and helpful. It makes me feel that I am part of a dying breed of people who exercise regularly, and enjoy fixing things instead of throwing them out and buying something new.

I especially like the mechanics and the C & V sections. Long live BikeForums!!
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Old 10-23-14, 06:55 AM
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Nail polish makes for a great paint touch up.

Never, ever buy a bike with s stuck seat post. I have been working on a tandem with 50% of the posts stuck now for 2 years. This winter it's coming out or it's scrap.

Don't pee into the wind.
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Old 10-23-14, 06:57 AM
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That I'd rather get mechanical tips from C&V than from the mechanics forum even though only 1.67 of my bikes are C&V
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Old 10-23-14, 07:11 AM
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Originally Posted by noglider
I've learned a heck of a lot. BF inspired me to collect and restore and resell (flip) bikes, though I don't do it any more. Best of all, I've made some true, real-life friends. Only problem is, I wonder where they are now. Oh well.

If I have to list a single fact, it's that Panaracer still makes very nice tires. I learned of the Pasela here, and I like it a lot.
I am still around!
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Old 10-23-14, 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by fender1
I am still around!
Thanks, Dude.
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Old 10-23-14, 10:06 AM
  #64  
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I don't know about tips- but I keep running across people's names and I'm reminded of all the times people have helped me, offered to help me and generally been good, kind community members.
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Old 10-23-14, 10:18 AM
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Thought more about the Q. Even though this thread is in the C&V section, I probably have received the most from reading the Tandem threads. I'm obviously more active and have interest in C&V, but Bike Forums led me to the tandem section. IMHO, it's the single most useful and must read site for tandem enthusiast - beginner to veteran.

As for tandems, definitely in the minority and not for all. Its a drastically different type of cycling, and I mean in all aspects. Not only about frames, mechanically but the very act of riding, physically, the thought process, communicating and riding as a team. Snickering at myself, but cautiously looking at real vintage tandem racers.
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Old 10-23-14, 10:20 AM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by icepick_trotsky
I disagree. Often, I've found that the quickest way to answer a question is to post the wrong answer and wait for someone to polite correct me.
That is a really good point! But it can be embarrassing to encounter complete nonsense in one of one's earlier postings.

Frankly, the single most useful tip I got on BF was when someone in the folding bikes forum mentioned the Sturmey Archer 8 speed hub, specifically as installed on the Downtube "Mini" and "8H" model folding bikes. I've learned other useful things, but that one is directly responsible for some 18,000 miles of riding.
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Old 10-23-14, 10:32 AM
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Originally Posted by sloar
Don't post a newly acquired bike and say that you finally found your Grail bike that you will never sell. Because no matter how long you have it, once you post it for sale someone will remember you saying that and dig up your old post and post it!
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Old 10-23-14, 10:38 AM
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if its a gmajor its up, if its an fsharp its down.you should also be able to play tubular bells on yr frame tubes
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Old 10-23-14, 10:38 AM
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Might not be new to most of you...but I learned to repair a flat on a tube while not removing the wheel from the bike (did not have a 9/16" wrench for my nieces bikes and we got tired of walking the bike back to the car). Necessity is the mother of inventions!

When I don't ride a certain bike for a while, I remove the chain from both cogs and loosen the brake cable to remove the high springs tension and take some air out of the tires.


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Old 10-23-14, 10:44 AM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by cradom
Don't pull the beads out like you're starting a lawnmower.
Well, I learned something from this.
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Old 10-23-14, 10:54 AM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by KOBE
Nail polish makes for a great paint touch up.

Never, ever buy a bike with s stuck seat post. I have been working on a tandem with 50% of the posts stuck now for 2 years. This winter it's coming out or it's scrap.

Don't pee into the wind.
Hope it's OK to add a new tip in this thread on old tips: for seatposts that absolutely won't come out no matter what, take the bike to an auto service station and pay a mechanic a couple of bucks to deploy the air hammer. The seatpost (or what's left of it) will come out in less than 5 seconds.

"tandem with 50% of the posts stuck"---nice one.
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Old 10-23-14, 11:04 AM
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Friction shifting is the solution to all of your compatibility issues.
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Old 10-23-14, 12:09 PM
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Originally Posted by crank_addict
Thought more about the Q. Even though this thread is in the C&V section, I probably have received the most from reading the Tandem threads. I'm obviously more active and have interest in C&V, but Bike Forums led me to the tandem section. IMHO, it's the single most useful and must read site for tandem enthusiast - beginner to veteran.

As for tandems, definitely in the minority and not for all. Its a drastically different type of cycling, and I mean in all aspects. Not only about frames, mechanically but the very act of riding, physically, the thought process, communicating and riding as a team. Snickering at myself, but cautiously looking at real vintage tandem racers.
It just occurred to me that you're the guy who doesn't steer, you don't have to put out as much effort because you're always drafting!
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Old 10-23-14, 12:44 PM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by ksryder
That I'd rather get mechanical tips from C&V than from the mechanics forum even though only 1.67 of my bikes are C&V
Isn't that the truth - they can be pretty heavy handed over there. And most of the questions deal with compatibility issues with modern components. Rule of thumb seems to be that nothing's compatible or interchangeable.

Other things I've learned:

Bianchis aren't all Celeste. Bianchis are made in Italy. Not ALL Bianchis are made in Italy. I bought my Bianchi without knowing any of those facts.
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Old 10-23-14, 01:11 PM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by Trakhak
Hope it's OK to add a new tip in this thread on old tips: for seatposts that absolutely won't come out no matter what, take the bike to an auto service station and pay a mechanic a couple of bucks to deploy the air hammer. The seatpost (or what's left of it) will come out in less than 5 seconds.
How does that work? Do you just chisel it out, or is it more sophisticated than that?
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