Did you ever make your own touring racks?
#26
Mike J
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Thanks. I guess the forum's email notifification system must be behind, because I hadn't seen but one reply to my post and thought maybe I'd offended the social graces of the elite with my ugly home-made racks, but, alas, there's 25 messages on this one! It was a fun endeavor in necessity being the mother of invention, only took 3 hours start to finish, cost=$0. My kind of a good day.
#27
Mike J
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Hey, experimentation is good. I suspect that they may not hold up well over time, and I wouldn't load them down with a lot of heavy gear. But they'll probably work fine for light-duty use. If they break, is there any risk that the broken pieces might impale your legs? That might be worth thinking about.
#28
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Me too! They look pretty sturdy to me so long as they're made out of hardwood.
Last week I made a roof rack out of 2x4 studs for my minivan to help my move my son's stuff 550 miles. It didn't look nearly as nice as the op's handicraft but worked to perfection, so looks can be deceiving.
Last week I made a roof rack out of 2x4 studs for my minivan to help my move my son's stuff 550 miles. It didn't look nearly as nice as the op's handicraft but worked to perfection, so looks can be deceiving.
#29
Mike J
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#31
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Funny you should say that. Last week I found a DeWalt circular saw hard-case, about the size of a small Harley Tourpack that I was thinking would work. It could go well with the "craftsman series" Peugeot. Fenders? Hmmmm, I've got some old wood-slat Venetian blinds out there, but I'm unsure if the Italians get along well with the French.
#32
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Still, I like messing with the wood scraps, and see what I can come up with (see above)
#34
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Wooden dogsleds (the good ones) are lashed together with tuna leader (like they use for tuna fishing). If you bolt one together, the wood tends to split at the bolts. The lashings seem to spread the force about, and let the wood flex a little without breaking.
Just food for thought. I don't imagine you want want to go back and lash your nice rack together.
#35
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Yeah, the front will only be holding a small lunch-sized cooler zipup bag which holds my bike tools and spare parts. Maybe 5 lbs, tops. As for the rear, I weigh 153, and even without the pieces having been glued together, yet (it was a dry-fit for the pics), the rear rack held me sitting on it and wiggling around with my feet off the ground. My camping load is around 30 lbs, so it should be good.
#36
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Yes. It's why the angles of the stays were mirrored, front and back. I'd compared how many older racks having single stays had the same angle. I just copied the geometry. I'm more concerned, actually, that the front tire doesn't match the rear tire, and the symmetry isn't yet complete.
#37
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Yeah... I like DIY, I applaud the attitude, and I'd encourage you to try again. Touring puts some serious stress on equipment like racks, and honestly I wouldn't expect these to last a week. Worse, when they fail, they may do so in a rather spectacular manner. Coming down a hill fully loaded at 35 mph I do not need extra things to worry about, such as my tent getting involved with my front wheel because my rack broke.
#39
Mike J
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Now, you've made an excellent point there. The care of the object related to it's value. You drive more carefully with the kids, or the beer on-board. I'm actually safer with my rickety racks.
#40
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I'd spent a good amount of time considering the shear factor of the downforce at the eyelet locations, and since the Pug has very large eyelet holes, I decided to use a rather stout bolt there with large washers and a good amount of torque, so I think they'll hold up well at the base anchor-points. At the top of the struts, there's just a single stainless screw holding the pieces together, and since it was "supposed to be" a dry-fit, and I got a bit lazy, I didn't disassemble the racks, again, and glue them up. My experiences in woodworking have taught me that all that fancy joinery, like drilling out the side-rails to accept the dowel all the way through the pieces, or dadoing the overlaps, was a toss up, since the wood gets weakened by that amount of wood removed from the drilling or dadoing. But, all that joinery can be eliminated with a proper gluing together of the pieces, which I'll be doing when I get unlazy tomorrow.
Sounds like you have it figured. Just be careful huh.
#42
Mike J
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That's the kind of re-purposing ingenuity I love to see. I just sold a bike with one of those racks, and it always was annoying clamping something onto paint I had to touch up later. Great idea.
#45
No one cares
just lean back er n kick er down wif yer toe.
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#46
elcraft
Regarding the Pletscher rack stability issue, there was an aftermarket "stabilizer" that braced the OEM clamp to the brake's mounting bolt. These were either a "T" shaped or triangular flat plate with holes drilled in each corner. Using one of these made a dramatic difference in the rack's stifness.
The OP's rack could be improved with small triangular struts parallel to the wheels' hub axles bracing the longer legs. Some of the ready made panniers have mounting hardware that won't play nicely with this rack, though.
Praise is due to making something useful out of what would otherwise be discarded into a landfill!
The OP's rack could be improved with small triangular struts parallel to the wheels' hub axles bracing the longer legs. Some of the ready made panniers have mounting hardware that won't play nicely with this rack, though.
Praise is due to making something useful out of what would otherwise be discarded into a landfill!
#47
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Regarding the Pletscher rack stability issue, there was an aftermarket "stabilizer" that braced the OEM clamp to the brake's mounting bolt. These were either a "T" shaped or triangular flat plate with holes drilled in each corner. Using one of these made a dramatic difference in the rack's stifness.
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#49
Mike J
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Regarding the Pletscher rack stability issue, there was an aftermarket "stabilizer" that braced the OEM clamp to the brake's mounting bolt. These were either a "T" shaped or triangular flat plate with holes drilled in each corner. Using one of these made a dramatic difference in the rack's stifness.
The OP's rack could be improved with small triangular struts parallel to the wheels' hub axles bracing the longer legs. Some of the ready made panniers have mounting hardware that won't play nicely with this rack, though.
Praise is due to making something useful out of what would otherwise be discarded into a landfill!
The OP's rack could be improved with small triangular struts parallel to the wheels' hub axles bracing the longer legs. Some of the ready made panniers have mounting hardware that won't play nicely with this rack, though.
Praise is due to making something useful out of what would otherwise be discarded into a landfill!
#50
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Oh snap. That wasn't a compliment.
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
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