![]() |
Cassette choice??
OK maybe I am being a bit anal but lets chalk that up to the winter blues! I need to select an 8 speed cassette for my 1984 Miyata 610 project. 11-32 or 11-34? As for the chain ring here is my current set-up which was stock. 52-46-28 I do have the rings to go 50-39-28. Also may consider changing the 28 to something a bit lower. Yeah I'm a wuss!
Thanks! |
What derailleur are you using? You need to made sure it can handle that large cog and take up that much chain.
|
I'm not much of a gear-spacing weenie, but if you don't need the ~1.5" lower gear that a 28/34 provides over a 28/32, the 11-32 would give a little nicer spacing between ratios.
Since now is the time for "winter thought experiments", you might consider going even smaller on all the chainrings, since 50/11 is a pretty high gear in my estimation. A 48/38/28 can be built on a 130/74 triple for starters, and a 38T middle ring should shift to a smaller granny ring (like 24 or 26T) much nicer than your current 46T. :) |
Depending on your cog tooth progression, I would vote for 11-32 with 46-42-28 (half-step-and-granny) or 46-36-24 (1.5-step-and-granny).
|
50/11 is over 122 gear inches. If you can push that you're no wuss!
What are you using currently? What are the lowest and highest gears you ride with any frequency? I would start there as your outside parameters, then try for the maximum number of usable gears in between, with minimal fussy double shifting, and hopefully with a decent chainline. Sheldon Brown's Bicycle Gear Calculator |
You might want to look closely at the middle gears (what you'll use on flattish roads), and optimize around that, ensuring that there's enough low end for the steep hills. I would also not bother with an 11t small cog if you're using a 50 or 52t big ring. 12 or even a 13t smallest cog would be plenty, IMHO, and probably give smaller steps in the middle of the cassette.
And since its 8-spd, the cogs are usually separable, so you could build any cassette you'd like. (I've got a drawer filled with every size Shimano cog made for 7/8-spd.) I'm currently using 12-14-16-17-19-21-24-28 (with 24-36-46 rings) on several bikes, and like that 1t spacing in the middle for subtle variations in speed/cadence on flat roads. Shifts just fine, despite what Shimano might say. The smaller 46t big ring gets used more, and allows the same subtle variations when the pace gets higher. I will be doing the STP one last time this summer and may use a 12-14-15-16-17-19-23-28 when I get stronger to deal with faster group rides. I would definitely suggest eliminating the second smallest cog, replacing it with a better cog size in the middle of the cassette. Just remember that the outer (smallest) cog should be one designated as "1st position". You could give yourself plenty of options by picking up two different 8-spd cassettes that have different intermediate cogs (or even one 8- and one 7-spd - same width individual cogs), then assemble what you want using the 8-spd spacers. And you might find that what you want later when you're stronger will be different. BTW, the little bolts/pins connecting the cogs are not needed if you're using a hub with a steel freehub body. Also, Loose Screws has individual cogs in the smaller sizes. http://www.loosescrews.com/index.cgi...d=666360626641 |
| All times are GMT -6. The time now is 07:29 AM. |
Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.