See my link in post #7 . There's another thread in a different forum on an identical bike, '84 (as I speculated in my first reply) Bianchi Special.

Seriously, now you're talking about the quill stem-to-threadless conversion? You're getting far afield from the original post, so I'd advise you to keep things in perspective unless you are made of money. In addition, you are getting lots of information from different directions, so take all of this with a grain of salt and do your own research. Just to confuse you further, I believe Magny itself IS a grade of Ishiwata brand tubing, just as Columbus (SL and SP and SLX, for example) and Reynolds (531 and 753 and 501, for example) both made different grades of tubing.

I don't perceive that your remarks are aimed at me particularly, but I think that it's correct to get the bike, as it is, in good and serviceable condition and save upgrade money for a better bike in the future. I'm not saying that the Brava is a bad bike or "low end" or anything else derogatory about it. I think it's a good bike well worth putting time and labor into. I think, for example, some time spent cleaning and polishing the aluminum parts, like the brakes, would be more satisfying than spending money on a new Ultegra brakeset. I think spending money on a couple bottom bracket tools, some solvent, some grease, and maybe some loose balls and then spending the time to learn to use the stuff properly can be a very satisfying, almost cathartic, experience that will improve the bike from it's current condition at least as well as going to a 105 chainset with octalink BB. I don't know, there's something about opening a traditional cup and cone BB, terminating the existence of that crap you find in side, massaging the balls into perfect smoothness and shininess and then replacing them with new grade 25 balls, just because, taking out the fixed cup so you can show your loved ones what a left handed thread looks like and then putting it together with love and attention to detail and ending up with cranks that spin smoother and more true than they did when new. Somebody belittles your cup and cone BB and you can explain that it works better than the sealed bearing ones and that servicing it is a snap if you know what you're doing. you can extoll the virtues and beautiful simplicity of friction shifting. Somebody says it's not dual pivot brakes with the super expensive cable and housing you can smile and tell them the brake job cost $12 including pads and because the wheels are true they work.

If you get one of these things in condition needing service, you can get it into great shape for not much money, end up with a great riding bike, and get more for it than you paid.

Stuff that costs money: some decent bike specific tool to service the headset and bb, a chain tool and a decent chain and freewheel to go with it. Other things that can be as expensive as you want like brake pads, bar tape, pedals. Maybe some expensive stuff like expensive tires and a high quality saddle; stuff that will make a big difference in the riding experience.

There may be some other suggestions in the PM I sent you in reply to your message.


That was hugely kind and noble of your brother your family should be very proud of him.

PS: do you collect shakers? Or do you use them for something other than cocktails?

From the OP via email:

["Thank you very much for the replies. The top tube says "special" but i wasnt able to find any bianchi special being mentioned (officially) or a catalog. The Special was an early '80s (maybe 70s too) lowerend model along the lines of a later Strada LX. Where was this made to be distributed? The Special was U.S. market bike and I believe Canadian as well. Also has suntour shifters, front d, rear d, shimano brakes. That sounds like the original equipment. Chain rings and cogs are really rusted and not sure if it can be repolished? The chain certainly looks like a goner but if the freewheel works it should be OK, just give it a light spray with some triflow or some other oil (not really wd-40) The chain rings look OK. Or salvaged? But i will try my best not to change major components as much as possible and try to ride it. Thank you very much!"]

Keep us posted on your rebuilding/cleaning progress.

There are a few members around the LA area maybe one is close and if you ask they may be willing to help you with things like overhauling the BB and the headset etc.

haha and shakers are from a party

Must have been some party if you needed more than a couple shakers

I'm relatively new to bike mechanics so I understand the urge to throw money at a project.
I've done it more than I'd like to admit.
I'm not regretting "overspending" on these builds, and am proud of the way these bikes came out, but no way could I get my investment back.
The latest bike I built was from take off parts on previous builds and I plan to sell this bike at a profit.
It's a 70's Peugeot U08 with an Ambrosio 700C wheelset and 6 speed freewheel .
The idea was to build something with the minimal amount of money, but make it function as mechanically perfect and as possible.
I stripped it down and cleaned every part, re-packing bearings, oiling derailleurs, and freewheels, aligning, adjusting, and truing, polishing, new cables and housings, brake pads, bar tape etc. The bike rides, shifts, and brakes better than new now. Even though I'm just going to sell it, I really enjoyed this build.

I forgot to mention, my favorite "go to beater bike" is a Bianchi of this type, I really like the way it rides, and have carried many a load on the rear rack. Perfect bike to have locked up against a fence for hours without worrying about it being stolen.

The serial number can be decoded for the year. It is stamped under the bottom bracket shell or, on the lower end of the seat tube, non-drive side.

Jim, thanks for your input. I am in a similar situation but I think I am more new to the scene or less experienced in the mechanic side. This is my first build and had/having a lot of fun/problems. I currently upgraded a lot of parts and wanted to experience a build by myself and see which direction I wanted to go. I do hear from lot of people to just overhaul the whole entire bike, as is and try to ride it like that. I just didn't want downgrade the drive train from what I had (2011 Cannondal CAAD10). So this would be a learning experience but you are correct. it did cost me about 650 bucks for the whole entire build and I don't think I can get this money back. but I love how it turned out!

And I am considering one for the future also hehe

I did locate the serial number but could not find anywhere who can give me the info.

https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...ification.html