bautieri

Does anyone know if it is possible to have new rack eyelets pressed into an aluminum seat stay tube? One of mine spun when I was trying to remove a bolt that was holding my rear rack in. The whole thing was spinning so I had to cut the head off the bolt...then the darn thing fell into the seat stay tube. Lucky me, I get to live with a rattle now

Anyways, I thought I would ask the collective minds on the forums before I head to the bike shop later this week. Anyone ever have a new eyelet installed? It looks like they are just pressed in with a die of some sort.

Thanks,

Bau

jethro56 

Could you post a picture of this?

Is it like this?
https://forums.bicycletutor.com/thread-432.html

dcrowell

Time for a new bike?

bautieri

Haha, I wish. The bike isn't even 2 years old yet...and Mrs. Bautieri would be rather sore with me for dropping 2k on a new one. Then again, it would be a pretty good excuse to pick up a frame with a stiffer bottom bracket.

I'll have to post a picture of it later tonight, jethro56.

sstorkel

Perhaps not: on welded bikes there are often vent holes where the seat stays connect to the seat tube. If you pull your seat post and your bike has vent holes, you might be able to get the broken metal out of the frame.

Correct. Though I have to say: my luck with rivnuts (admittedly on non-bike projects) hasn't been great. They have a tendency to spin if you put too much torque on them. Next time I need to use them, I'll put a couple drops of epoxy glue under the flange before I install them...

cyclist2000

That sounds like a really good idea to glue it in to keep if from spinning. On the reverse, maybe that should be done when the eyelet starts spinning when removing the bolt, try to put some superglue between the frame and the eyelet to prevent it from spinning.

XR2

After installing use Loctite 290 threadlocker. It's a wicking type designed for application after assembly. Good stuff.

jethro56 

I'm wondering if there was a mismatch of bolt versus thread material. Galvic corrosion of threads is a killer.

sstorkel

Given that there are no external threads on a rivnut, I'm not entirely convinced that a threadlock compound would work...

fietsbob

I expect your riv-nut has loosened, You can have those replaced, and the new one spread out
into the existing hole.

I have also Used a Non Tool installation in cramped quarters, a thick washer that spans the 2 sides of the Flange, of the riv nut, and a second flat washer under the bolt head for good measure

grease the thread on the bolt , and tighten it down. in the process you are pulling the threaded part
of the riv nut against itself, causing it to expand into the hole.

epcolt

A little expanding spray foam might trap the broken one in the frame so it won't rattle.

bautieri

As promised, here is a picture:



You can see the outer flange where the rivnut spun, it's the shiny part without paint. One of the only complaints I've had with this bike is that if you even look at it cross-eyed, the paint chips off. Well, before the whole spun eyelet thing that is. Yes, my bicycle needs a bath...a shiny bicycle is a bicycle that hasn't been ridden much

I stopped by the bike shop last night and spoke with the mechanic. After chewing the fat a bit he mentioned it shouldn't be a problem to fix it and that Specialized aught to pick the tab up. It will just be a matter of grinding off the old flange, removing the other half of the rivnut, and installing a new one. Supposedly they see this every once in a while with bottle cage mounts. Apparently they install like a pop rivet. I'll be dropping the bike off after work today.

Thanks for all the great advice!

txvintage

I'm willing to bet your seat stay tubes open up into your bottom bracket. Simply take pull of your crankset, remove the bottom bracket, and shake the bike until the tivnut head falls out.

Don't forget to reinstall the bottom bracket and crankset

cyccommute 

Probably not. The tubes are welded to the seat tube blind and dropout end has is closed also. About the only hole in the entire tube is a small vent hole at the dropout. It's likely that the rest of the rivinut is there to stay.

sstorkel

Seat stays connect the seat tube to the chain stays; no bottom bracket involved. Perhaps you're thinking of chain stays?

dcrowell

If there is no way to get it out, you could dump some glue in there and let it set. That should prevent rattling. It may hold moisture, which would be bad.

fietsbob

I would first attempt to further expand the existing riv nut, in place,
if it is not loose enough to remove.
rather than have it rattle around inside the seat stay tube forever..

Perhaps adding a shake proof star washer to grip the edges? under the flat washers [as said in #10]

but when installed there was enough friction with in the tool, to set it in the 1st place..

And if You have any other dry fit machine screws I would take them out
and put in again with a tiny bit of grease.

bautieri

I think, if they are unable to retrieve the old nut, my best bet will be to flip the bike upside down so that the rivnut is up against the seat tube (the opening is too small to fish it through) and spraying some expanding foam insulation like "Great Stuff" into the hole. In theory it should expand and seal the nut and itself in place.

The bike mechanic suggested using epoxy to do this but I have concerns with that, mainly the potential to glue my seat post in place should some epoxy dribble up onto the seat post. I hope it was an offhand comment as a first thought and not his actual plan of action...

Arvadaman

Any warranty? Have you talked to Specialized?

Otherwise,

https://www.jandd.com/detail.asp?PRODUCT_ID=FCLAMP

bautieri

The eyelet was replaced under warranty. It was an in and out procedure which took a half hour from start to finish. That even included some time for touch up paint to dry.

The mechanic was even able to remove the other half of the riv-nut which fell into the seat tube. All in all, I'm quite happy with the shop and Specialized for standing behind their product. Thank you for all your input!

cyccommute 

I'm glad it turned out well. I've had opportunities to deal with Specialized on warranty issues and they've always done right by me. Note of caution: Keep an eye on the area around the riv-nut for any cracks. From your picture, it looks a little chewed which might cause some stress risers. I'm not saying to worry about it too much but just check it closely from time to time...once or twice a year should be more then enough. If you see cracks, talk to the shop.

XR2

FWIW I use it to secure valve guides in motorcycle cylinder heads. Not one failure in 20 years.