White Industries Hub for an Athena ?? Front Wheel
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White Industries Hub for an Athena ?? Front Wheel
So I'm thinking about replacing Gina's front wheel with something more conventional. I was thinking a White Industries H2, 28 spoke, with a Fusion (27mm $56) Kinlin (27 mm $42) or a Mavic CXP33 ( $84 overpriced imo I have one on my bike). Using 14/15/14 butted spokes.
She has a DeepV 32 Dura Ace as a rear wheel so I'm looking to get something nice and shiny for the front. Can't see spending $175 for a front DA hub alone.
White Industries H2 is $123, not too expensive but still nice looking,
But I've seen 2 White I hubs in my life at an LBS. Plus I've never seen anybody actually riding them. So I guess I'm looking for someone that has actually had and used this brand. Are they as nice as the one or two reviews say?
I'm in no hurry, maybe a couple weeks down the line........
Any experience with this front hub?
whiteIH2 by gulpxtreme, on Flickr
She has a DeepV 32 Dura Ace as a rear wheel so I'm looking to get something nice and shiny for the front. Can't see spending $175 for a front DA hub alone.
White Industries H2 is $123, not too expensive but still nice looking,
But I've seen 2 White I hubs in my life at an LBS. Plus I've never seen anybody actually riding them. So I guess I'm looking for someone that has actually had and used this brand. Are they as nice as the one or two reviews say?
I'm in no hurry, maybe a couple weeks down the line........
Any experience with this front hub?
whiteIH2 by gulpxtreme, on Flickr
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I run them front and back on the Moto. They are in fact real nice hubs. They spin smooth and seem real durable; but I only managed to rack up 2,200 miles this past season. The polished finish ones are super nice looking.
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I was thinking about trying the Velocity Fusion rim next time myself. I like the Deep V, and I have no concerns about it's strength, but those things are stiff stiff; noticed a big difference in ride quality when I switched to it from the Aksiums that the bike came with. Thought maybe the Fusion might be somewhere in between.
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Yup, V's are stiff. Depening on how the new rim is, I just may rebuild the rear DA hub onto a Fusion/Kinlin 27mm rather than the V she has now.
But she has no problem with the feel of the V. I told her when I put it on that I'd change the rim if she had any problems, she said she liked it as it was strong feeling compared to the other wimpy rims shes used, Bonti Race Lites and Mavic Op's.
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I have them on my tandem laced to Zipp rims. I like em. It is a nice looking hub and has performed great up to now. It's only 2 yrs old though.
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I have White Industry hubs F/R laced to Deep V hoops, 36 spokes. I got the MI6 hubs, not the H2/H3, but I'm sure the quality will be impressive across the brand. Mine are amazing! They look great, roll great, very high quality product!
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That's cool, thanks, 2 years is plenty of riding for a durability report. If anything I can have it overhauled after 2 years and one month.
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I just can't see paying almost $200 alone for a DA front hub ($175) to match the rear hub.
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Used a WI hub for years on the rear, very nice hubs.. Found you a deal online... 97.00
Call and find out spoke count
https://www.speedgoat.com/Catalog.asp...138&Prod=13738
Call and find out spoke count
https://www.speedgoat.com/Catalog.asp...138&Prod=13738
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I'm sure the fronts are the same quality as the WI rear hubs, and that's all I can speak to from experience. There's a guy in my rando club who rides a WI ENO rear on his singlespeed, and he's done distances up to 1000k on it. He's had it on there for at least the 3 years I've been with the club. I don't recall what he's got it laced up to, but it's a good robust wheel and it just plain looks sharp. WI makes nice looking stuff.
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I think with the rims you spec's you could even go down to a 20/24 spoke front with no issues..
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You can't really see it, but White hubs on here: https://www.dim.com/~ryoder/calfee-luna-pro.jpg
32H front, 36H rear, Aerohead rims (O/C rear), DT 14/15 spokes.
32H front, 36H rear, Aerohead rims (O/C rear), DT 14/15 spokes.
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Used a WI hub for years on the rear, very nice hubs.. Found you a deal online... 97.00
Call and find out spoke count
https://www.speedgoat.com/Catalog.asp...138&Prod=13738
Call and find out spoke count
https://www.speedgoat.com/Catalog.asp...138&Prod=13738
Thanks! I'd like to stay with 28 min though.
As much as I want to build them myself, almost seems more reasonable to buy assembled from prowheelbuilder. After I pay shipping for this and that, may come out costing more. I will go with their build then rebuild late if any problems arise.
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I have the fusions on my bike and they are a nice rim and plenty stiff, but much lighter than my Deep V's I was riding. If you ride Michelle tires, they are a pain to put on the Velocity rims however. I am also thinking about getting some of the A23's. Velocity is moving it's entire manufacturing process to Jacksonville, so hoping I will start finding their rims local soon.
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I have the fusions on my bike and they are a nice rim and plenty stiff, but much lighter than my Deep V's I was riding. If you ride Michelle tires, they are a pain to put on the Velocity rims however. I am also thinking about getting some of the A23's. Velocity is moving it's entire manufacturing process to Jacksonville, so hoping I will start finding their rims local soon.
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I have long coveted a set of Phil Wood hubs. Looking at that hub, I might have to reconsider...that sure is purdy.
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If you find Phil Woods they are worth the $$$, I have a set of Mavic SUPs, still use the front - going on 20 years old and never serviced and still spins as smooth as the day they were built..
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On another thread talking about ceramic bearings, I did a test with my H2 hub (regular bearings). The hubs are very low friction. Here's the post:
The silver hubs look great. I shine mine with brass polish about once a year, but that's just to get some minor water marks and haze off. They aren't anodized, so they are much shinier than a typical anodized aluminum bike component.
There's two reasons I got WI hubs:
They are very strong, so I'm not likely to get a cracked spoke hole.
They are easily serviceable, without any special tools ( a bearing puller would be helpful. The LBS could do this step.) They use easy to find standard size cartridge bearings. There's a nice step-by-step pdf for disassembling the rear hub on the WI website.
The rear hubs have a titanium freehub, and a steel axle, instead of an aluminum axle. The rear hubs have 5 sets of bearings for good support of the hub and freehub. Yet they are still reasonably lightweight.
I just spun my front wheel while the bike was on the repair stand. It's a 1550 gram aluminum wheel set, White Industries hubs and Kinlin 30mm rims. I have between 3,000 and 4,000 miles on it so far. I gave it a decent pull, but didn't try to maximize the wheel speed.
Timing the front wheel spin down:
6 min 55 secs: finishing spinning in circles, starting the final oscillation back and forth, due to the weight of the rim joint.
11 min 20 secs: finally stopped completely.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Timing the front wheel spin down:
6 min 55 secs: finishing spinning in circles, starting the final oscillation back and forth, due to the weight of the rim joint.
11 min 20 secs: finally stopped completely.
The silver hubs look great. I shine mine with brass polish about once a year, but that's just to get some minor water marks and haze off. They aren't anodized, so they are much shinier than a typical anodized aluminum bike component.
There's two reasons I got WI hubs:
They are very strong, so I'm not likely to get a cracked spoke hole.
They are easily serviceable, without any special tools ( a bearing puller would be helpful. The LBS could do this step.) They use easy to find standard size cartridge bearings. There's a nice step-by-step pdf for disassembling the rear hub on the WI website.
The rear hubs have a titanium freehub, and a steel axle, instead of an aluminum axle. The rear hubs have 5 sets of bearings for good support of the hub and freehub. Yet they are still reasonably lightweight.
Last edited by rm -rf; 01-20-12 at 03:49 PM.
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175 is way too much
I'm surprised I can find only 1?? Must be off season.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/DURA-ACE-HB-...item43aa73b8e1
Or maybe bid on this?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dura-Ace-Vel...item3f126d59ad
I'm surprised I can find only 1?? Must be off season.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/DURA-ACE-HB-...item43aa73b8e1
Or maybe bid on this?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dura-Ace-Vel...item3f126d59ad
Last edited by gbg; 01-20-12 at 09:39 PM.
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On another thread talking about ceramic bearings, I did a test with my H2 hub (regular bearings). The hubs are very low friction. Here's the post:
[INDENT]I just spun my front wheel while the bike was on the repair stand. It's a 1550 gram aluminum wheel set, White Industries hubs and Kinlin 30mm rims. I have between 3,000 and 4,000 miles on it so far. I gave it a decent pull, but didn't try to maximize the wheel speed.
[INDENT]I just spun my front wheel while the bike was on the repair stand. It's a 1550 gram aluminum wheel set, White Industries hubs and Kinlin 30mm rims. I have between 3,000 and 4,000 miles on it so far. I gave it a decent pull, but didn't try to maximize the wheel speed.
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The Phils, however, are easier to overhaul. And you can get them in lots of purty colors, if you want
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Don't know about their road hubs, but I am still running the originals on my 97 Homegrown HT mountain bike. Never had any problems at all and based on that I would not hesitate get them for my road bike.
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