Wooden Tiger

But see, that's exactly the thing, I don't care so much to push myself into shape, I just wanna ride for a little bit of leisure. Weight loss will come with the riding, I just don't want the fitness to be the focus of my rides. On a roadie that's super-tough to slog up a hill on, that's not enjoyable for me. I'm not saying a little bit of effort isn't a good thing, but I don't wanna be sweating bullets just to get up a hill.

cplager

I generally get a bit peeved when people basically give the "HTFU, you don't need lower gears" answer. In your case, I think you've figured out what the issue is and now you can evaluate your choices as to what you want to do about it.

One last comment: If you do the simple cassette swap and that isn't enough low end, consider learning how to swap the crankset yourself. It will cost a little bit in tools, but learning how to do bike maintenance yourself is both cheaper and rewarding. It becomes that much more "your bike". If you find the road bike more enjoyable (ignoring the current hill situation), then I think it's worth getting the bike to where you like riding it again.

SeanBlader

Dan, I absolutely have to say thanks for this thread, came at the perfect time for me!

I'm with you on the bust your ass effort involved in climbing with that gearing, I don't want to end up with thighs the size of buildings, but I also don't want to get left behind gasping for air on any group rides that head in that direction either.

I figured out I had a gearing issue after comparing experiences with a rental mountain bike overseas, I could really spin the MTB up hills and the Allez in it's lowest gear 34 front and 25 rear wasn't even close.

So the question is, ignoring the fit and spacing issues of having a wider gearset up front, is it possible to add a 3rd chainring in the 22 or 24 range to supplement the 50/34 that is already up front? I visualize issues with the rear derailleur having problems keeping tension on the chain with a gear that's too small up front.

cplager

Good question.

On one of my bikes I have a 50/39/24T crankset and the other a 48/38/22T crankset. You are correct that a road rear derailleur may not be long enough (or have enough capacity) to be able to take up the slack. In that case, the solution is to use a mountain bike rear derailleur. Depending on what your shifters are, it is usually (almost always?) possible to find one where you can just swap the rear derailleurs, tune up the bike, and be good to go.

Sasquatch16

I am a large guy and had the same problem as you. Got a new road bike and could not go up a couple of local hills. Went to LBS and he swapped out 12/25 cassette for a 11/34 cassette. Derailleur made contact when in the granny gear so he put a mountain bike rear derailleur on. Problem solved for about 1/2 hour and $75.00. When I get in better shape I will switch it back.

Wooden Tiger

Glad the thread was a help to you, Sean.

Even though we belong to a bike club and the members are a very supportive group of people, most of them are a bit more competitive than Rachel and I. When I say they are really into their bikes, I mean they are really into their bikes. They're into racing, pushing themselves to their limits, etc. Simply put, they live to ride. I think that's awesome how passionate they are about cycling and how much of a hobby it is for them, but their motives differ from those of Rachel and I. Yes, they do hold "no drop" rides but neither Rachel and I feel comfortable on the roads so we don't participate. In a way, we're basically just giving donations to the club every year because we really don't participate in any of the functions; it's not because we don't like the people in the club, but their focus just differs. We've expressed interest in leading a ride along the C&O which would be more of a "leisurely" type ride, basically for those with children or those who are just out for a leisurely weekend ride like us. Unfortunately, it hasn't really gotten off the ground but a few have expressed interest. We'll have to make the next meeting to discuss.

As for fit, I'm pretty comfortable on the bike so I don't think the fit is the issue. I think it's basically a matter of disliking the gearing. I really like the bike, I just hate the gearing. I'd really like to get out on it more but given that I'm miserable whenever I'm on it, it just doesn't inspire me to take it out. I would absolutely love to love riding it. I need to hit the LBS tomorrow and getting a quote on my options and a few suggestions as to what the most cost-effective path to take is going to be. I was thinking about getting new wheels but I'm glad I held off on it, especially considering it seems my problem is stemming from other areas than just weak rims and crappy wheel bearings. After I get everything situated to where I'm happy with the bike, then I may decide to get a real nice set of wheels for it.

This doesn't sound like a bad idea at all. Is there any difference between the performance of a MTB derailleur and a roadie derailleur in terms of performance or anything?

donalson

as long as they are matched to the shifters pull ratio... not really, just weigh a bit more

Chitown_Mike

This, and what Beanz said.

I ride my MTB almost everyday to work (not today, tooooooo sore) and when I hop on my roadie, I notice the endurance is there a bit more, but I get winded so much easier on hills. Granted my average speed increases, but when I get to grinding, the position I am on on the roadie takes more out of me when pushing it. I just did 40 rather rolling hill miles yesterday and I was worn out almost every hill, but my recoup time was shorter.

ClydesMoose

Shouldn't even need an MTB der. SRAM makes mid cage road derailleurs just for this reason. Part of their WiFLi system.

cplager

If you do replace the rear derailleur, consider getting the largest capacity you easily can (so if you do decide to put a triple on the front, you won't need to re-replace the rear derailleur).

IBOHUNT

Just post that you want to do a ride on the canal. Those of us in the club that push each other on Wednesday nights enjoy the canal as well.
I was on the canal yesterday doing a recovery ride from my hilly metric on Saturday. It was just about empty

The Monday ride from Shep should be a good ride for you both. Have you done that?

IBOHUNT

If you got nothing better to do for 5-8 hours...

Keedysville => Boonsboro go up Reno Monument => Marker Rd => Picnic woods rd =>Broad Rd => Gapland Rd => 67 => Weaverton => Gapland => Mountain Church > Mt. Tabor=> Grindstone => Canada Hill => Boonsboro Mtn Rd => Keedysville

https://ridewithgps.com/routes/2429315

56 miles / 5600' gain

Nothing like crossing the Appalachians 4 times in one ride.

IBOHUNT

Second that.

If you have SRAM opt for the X9 mountain derailleur and a 36 tooth cassette.
If someone says it can't be done run, don't walk, away.

The Rival and Apex mid cage will accept a 32 tooth cassette.

IBOHUNT

Roger that unless your name is Contador

It STILL hurts after 16 months and I've ridden up one or two hills, a lock on the C&O and an overpass or two.

Wooden Tiger

Well, I dunno about Rachel but there's no ride in the world that's EVER going to get me back on the road.

See above.

I have Shimano 105 on my roadie; shifters and front/rear derailleurs.

ClydesMoose

SRAM and Shimano road components are pretty interchangeable.

vesteroid

FIrst I didnt say HTFU. I said, and very clearly, get a mechanical advantage. I also said don't get fooled into believing that a road bike with a 11/28 is ever going to make hills easy.

I suppose I have to admit I dont understand the concept of buying a road bike built for speed, to ride for fun. I would have thought the mtb or a beach cruiser would have fit that bill.

jsigone

everything is interchangeable BUT the shifters and rear D. They run of different pull ratio. You can mix the front D though.

Wooden Tiger

I've always scratched my head as to why companies mix and match Shimano components with SRAM. Wouldn't it just be more beneficial to either stick with one or the other?

What is "HTFU?"

As to the "concept of buying a road bike built for speed "to ride for fun," I bought the bike because it was comfortable, I liked it, and I could. I probably wouldn't call a Schwinn Paramount Series 7 a bike "built for speed." The geometry is more relaxed than a "speed bike" such as a Cannondale Super Six or Trek Madone. IMO, it's more of a "long distance" bike with a geometry leaning towards the "sporty" side, sort of like a Cannondale Synapse.

Yes, as I commented right above, I guess I don't see why these companies mix and match parts. One would think it'd be easier just to stick with one, especially if the parts were comparable with one another.

SeanBlader

I like going fast, but it's not my only goal in having a bike, and having the road bike that CAN go fast, doesn't mean it always has to. I expect my one bike to commute, tour, climb, and go fast. It doesn't need to do ANY of them better than I do since I suck at all of them. The one thing I'm okay with never doing is going offroad with it. Definitely not my thing. But that doesn't mean my Allez can't do everything else I want it to. Maybe someday I'll graduate into having a bike for each task, but I don't expect I'll ever ride a flat bar bike again, too limiting.

Wooden Tiger

I'd prefer my roadie to be a little bit more versatile as far as climbing and cruising, that's really all I'm looking for. I'm not looking for a cruiser bike, just something that climbs a little easier. I don't race, "speed ride," participate in big club rides, etc. If I want to participate in those types of events, I have my large chain-ring up front. The large chain-ring isn't what I'm interested in changing, it's the small one I use for climbing. I like to refer to it as my "leisure gear."

Beachgrad05

Road bikes come with varying frame geometry as well as gearing. The bike OP purchased may have a more "relaxed" frame geometry but it has more of a race gear setup.

My Madone has more "relaxed" gearing if you will with 12-32 cassette.

Wooden Tiger

While I wouldn't call the geometry "relaxed," per se, the top tube raises slightly, unlike the a top tube on a racing bike which is pretty much level.

https://www.google.com/search?hl=en&g...xpxK3Oy-4YM%3A

vesteroid

I fully support buying what you want even if its just because you can. I do the same thing. I just purchased a frame that has no bearing on my real ability, its because I wanted it, and can afford it.

I get it.

I still dont understand the concept of buying a road bike, and upgrading a road bike, to simply have fun riding....but each to their own

ClydesMoose

I thought it was the MtB SRAM stuff that wasn't interchangable. Hm. The road stuff doesn't work similarly between SRAM and Shimano?