350+ and ready to ride
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#28
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To me your looking at this all wrong. There is No do everything / grow into it later bike! You first need a bike that will support your weight, period! Can you imagine the disappointment if you buy something u think you can "grow into" and it collapses under your weight. All that money gone. After you have lost some weight, say under 270 or so, then get a different more to your liking bike. By then you will know more about what your needs are. Trust me, the bike you need now is not what you will want or need after the weight loss. Good luck with your quest.
#29
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Yes, this is what figured. Please be aware that bikes often have a narrow range of tires that will fit. So, for example a Trek FX 7.2 comes with 700x35 tires, which to most road bike riders are pretty large. I don't know the limits on tire size, but don't assume you'll just be able to put much larger tires on the bike as you like, sometimes the clearances are pretty narrow.
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I agree with what Hairy Hands said. I destroyed a rear wheel on an older Townie before I bought a shift 4. I had a wheel hand built for the townie for $160 and it's held up fine but I wanted something with more than 3 speeds. I searched and found bikes that had eye appeal to me but none of them were rated at my weight (started at 346, now 315) so I went with the shift 4. I didn't want to go through having wheels built for a new bike. I'm hoping to get well under 300 then shop for my next bike. But, in the end, everybody has to make their own decisions.
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Thanks for al the help, your information really helped. I think I'm just stock at a cross roads. My biggest fear is getting a bike that doesn't support my weight. I think I was just trying to find the unicorn of bike. Something that has good comfort with more upright seating. A bike that is fast on the road while being decent on some light trails if I choice too go in that direction. Don't really have the funds to buy multiple bikes. but on the other side, if I were to buy a. Ore comfort bike to help me get back info right and help lose another 50-75 lbs before upgrading, the I would think it would be worth the purchase.
this is not an exhaustive list
Last edited by MRT2; 02-16-15 at 03:08 PM.
#32
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I agree with what Hairy Hands said. I destroyed a rear wheel on an older Townie before I bought a shift 4. I had a wheel hand built for the townie for $160 and it's held up fine but I wanted something with more than 3 speeds. I searched and found bikes that had eye appeal to me but none of them were rated at my weight (started at 346, now 315) so I went with the shift 4. I didn't want to go through having wheels built for a new bike. I'm hoping to get well under 300 then shop for my next bike. But, in the end, everybody has to make their own decisions.
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I bought the Shift 4 not the 3. Yep, it's more upright than most bikes but not as laid back as my Electra Townie and heavier built and hopefully a bike that will help me get more weight off so I can ride a little racier bike at some point. It's not a fast bike but I'm alright with that for now.
#34
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Don't get too hung up on the weight limits listed. Those are really CYA limits. If the weight limit is listed as 300, you can bet engineering tested it safe at 400. Have a set of wheels built up and most bikes can handle a 400 lb rider. I was riding a CAAD9 at 410. I had some "big boy" wheels (Deep V, 36 spokes with White Industries Cyclocross hubs) built up for it and have had ZERO issues. That's a skinny tire road bike that won't take anything past a 25C width tire. Probably not the best choice for where I was, or even where I am (325ish), but it's the best choice for where I want to be. Wheels are going to be the weakest point of any bike for us big guys, and it's the most important part to get built right - well, that and fit.
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Don't get too hung up on the weight limits listed. Those are really CYA limits. If the weight limit is listed as 300, you can bet engineering tested it safe at 400. Have a set of wheels built up and most bikes can handle a 400 lb rider. I was riding a CAAD9 at 410. I had some "big boy" wheels (Deep V, 36 spokes with White Industries Cyclocross hubs) built up for it and have had ZERO issues. That's a skinny tire road bike that won't take anything past a 25C width tire. Probably not the best choice for where I was, or even where I am (325ish), but it's the best choice for where I want to be. Wheels are going to be the weakest point of any bike for us big guys, and it's the most important part to get built right - well, that and fit.
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I am at 315 now and 345 when I started last year and rode 600+ miles and still on my stock rims. My rims are also 26" MTB rims vs 700 which will make a difference in how long they last I believe.
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Why not? Bikes are built to a price point and one of the places bike brands cut corners are wheels.
Last edited by MRT2; 02-16-15 at 07:17 PM.
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#39
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That sounds like a reasonable idea to me. Don't just replace the wheels because you know at some point you are going to destroy them. Wait until you have issues then you might have wheel money. You might be able to ride on your stock wheels for many miles... Now keeping them true is a different story.
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I've read the same thing on other sites as well. I e noticed it's difficult to find a fitness bike with MTB wheels with no suspension fork.
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Surly Troll. Troll | Bikes | Surly Bikes
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I would take a look at the Jamis Coda Sport, then budget a little extra should the back wheel give you trouble. JAMIS BICYCLES
#45
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Read the small print on most stated bicycle "weight capacity" listings . . . It has a great more to do with government regulated stopping distance specifications than actual capacity of the bicycle frame/wheels. Not that stopping in a timely manner is not an important factor, but judicious riding on a generally sturdy frame of good quality will bring you many miles of biking pleasure.
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Steel vs Alloy
I always choose steel over alloy frames though heavier, steel is more forgiving.
I've had bad luck with 700c wheels, destroyed two rear, 36spoke double wall rims by going over a small pothole.
I now stay with 26", 2.0+ wide tires like the Maxxis Holy Rollers, add to that a pair of fenders, Brooks leather seat, Sturmey Archer hub brakes, good lights.
If you are riding mostly on flat ground, consider a three speed for simplicity.
I've had bad luck with 700c wheels, destroyed two rear, 36spoke double wall rims by going over a small pothole.
I now stay with 26", 2.0+ wide tires like the Maxxis Holy Rollers, add to that a pair of fenders, Brooks leather seat, Sturmey Archer hub brakes, good lights.
If you are riding mostly on flat ground, consider a three speed for simplicity.
#47
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I've busted plenty of spokes on 26'' wheels. There's nothing magic about that size, only the quality of the wheel counts.
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I rode a few hundred miles on the stock 20/24 spoke wheels. No problems, but I babied them. I spent a small fortune on my wheels too. But seriously, get the bike you want and within reason don't worry about weight limits. Ride the stock wheels until you start popping spokes. Meanwhile start a savings account for new wheels.
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I ride a GIANT ESCAPE 3. I started out right at 380#, only problem I had was rear spokes popping, I had stronger spokes put in and no problem since
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thanks for the help everyone, I've been doing my research and reading up on other cyclist of same size and I think I am going to go with a hybrids fitness bike ( at least I have narrowed it down to a style). Based on my needs, I think it's a good choice (no fork, upright riding, road and light trail). Hopefully the wheels will hold for a while before needing A repair of upgrade.
I have narrowed it down to 3 models so far, but open to other suggestions. As of now, I am looking at the Trek 7.2 FX, Giant Escape 1, and Fuji Absolute 1.5, listed from most interested to least.
I have narrowed it down to 3 models so far, but open to other suggestions. As of now, I am looking at the Trek 7.2 FX, Giant Escape 1, and Fuji Absolute 1.5, listed from most interested to least.
Last edited by Vegatron; 02-17-15 at 09:19 PM.