Commuter wheels
04-09-15 | 12:28 PM
#26
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From: Memphis TN area
Bikes: 2011 Felt Z85 (road/commuter), 2006 Marin Pine Mountain (utility/commuter E-bike), 1995 KHS Alite 1000 (gravel grinder)
I don't see any compromises with a $200 Vuelta Corsa wheelset. When they're perfectly true as far as the naked eye can see straight out of the box, how can you go wrong?
04-09-15 | 01:10 PM
#27
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From: Las Vegas, NV
Bikes: '04 LeMond Buenos Aires, '82 Bianchi Nuova Racing, De Rosa SLX, Bridgestone MB-1, Guerciotti TSX, Torpado Aelle, LeMond Tourmalet 853, Bridgestone Radac
I discovered these the other day, $200 and free shipping from Amazon. I don't have problems with any of my spoked wheels, but the idea of something (that ought to be) bombproof is intriguing.
Robot Check
Robot Check
04-09-15 | 02:40 PM
#29
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Since it sounds like you are on a budget and are fairly hard on wheels, I would look at something like the Velocity Dyad or Deep V laced to what ever hubs fit your budget, or even your current hubs if they are in good shape. The A23 is a great rim if you want to keep things a bit lighter. It is what I personally commute on but these other two options are usually cheaper and tougher and it sounds like at this point you value durability above all.
or even your current hubs if they are in good shape
04-09-15 | 02:53 PM
#30
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From: San Diego
Bikes: Surly CrossCheck, Krampus
I haven't used them myself, but I'll add I've also heard only good things about Vuelta Corsa HD from Nashbar. On sale right now for $154/set, so well within your $200 budget. And 36 spokes means (a) the front is overbuilt, and (b) the rear can handle the load. The more spokes there are, the less finicky the wheel build is. I'm 250 myself, I kinda wish in retrospect I had gotten myself a 36h rear wheel, but 32H Velocity Dyad on 105 hubs (handbuilt locally for $400) are doing fine. And wheel quality is probably more about tension than components, so consider also buying a cheaper wheel, but taking it to a local shop to have them make sure it's properly tensioned and trued, for like $40, and the wheel will be stronger.
04-09-15 | 05:41 PM
#31
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From: Colorado Springs
Bikes: Borealis Echo, Ground Up Designs Ti Cross bike, Xtracycle, GT mod trials bike, pixie race machine
While true that most builders are happy to rebuild hubs for an extra charge before building wheels, I only mention if your hubs are in good shape because some hubs can get damaged/worn beyond the point that it makes sense to lace them into a new wheel. Specifically cup/cone hubs that have been horribly neglected, especially if it is only a few bucks more than a rebuilt to buy new hubs.
04-09-15 | 06:43 PM
#32
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From: Eugene, Oregon, USA
I keep an eye open for good deals on used wheels and parts (except used spokes & nipples). However, any "new" wheel I acquire, I build myself.
I've now started breaking spokes on my 36 spoke front wheel of unknown age and history. 3 broken so far, all "outbound" spokes (heads on the inside of the hub). The heads seem to be popping off of the spokes one at a time. 15 left to go!!!! Comparing the new DT spokes with the original generic spokes, the heads don't seat well with the generics. My interpretation is that the DT spokes use just a little softer material, and seat better than the original spokes.
Anyway, it is hard for me to build a 100% new wheel (no recycled parts) for less than $100. Good hubs, of course, can last a long time.
I am just very leery of buying a $100 new wheel. One of the things that I'll naturally do is upgrade parts. 100% name brand spokes. I was using straight spokes, but after reading some, I've shifted to double butted. Perhaps 105 or Tiagra at the low end for hubs. Rims of my choice.
I'm not a perfect wheel builder yet, but I trust my wheels better than the bargain basement generics.
If you have trued a wheel, but haven't built one, it can be a good experience.
I've now started breaking spokes on my 36 spoke front wheel of unknown age and history. 3 broken so far, all "outbound" spokes (heads on the inside of the hub). The heads seem to be popping off of the spokes one at a time. 15 left to go!!!! Comparing the new DT spokes with the original generic spokes, the heads don't seat well with the generics. My interpretation is that the DT spokes use just a little softer material, and seat better than the original spokes.
Anyway, it is hard for me to build a 100% new wheel (no recycled parts) for less than $100. Good hubs, of course, can last a long time.
I am just very leery of buying a $100 new wheel. One of the things that I'll naturally do is upgrade parts. 100% name brand spokes. I was using straight spokes, but after reading some, I've shifted to double butted. Perhaps 105 or Tiagra at the low end for hubs. Rims of my choice.
I'm not a perfect wheel builder yet, but I trust my wheels better than the bargain basement generics.
If you have trued a wheel, but haven't built one, it can be a good experience.
04-10-15 | 10:00 AM
#33
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I disagree on both points but I'm more interested in understanding your first point. Why would an A23 laced the same way be worse than a dyad?
04-10-15 | 09:21 PM
#34
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From: Colorado Springs
Bikes: Borealis Echo, Ground Up Designs Ti Cross bike, Xtracycle, GT mod trials bike, pixie race machine
I would not call the A23 worse than the Dyad, just different. I am actually a huge A23 fan but the A23 is fairly light more performance oriented rim. While it is quite durable, the Dyad is still built to be tougher so it could handle incidentals that always come up in commuting better. Things like repeated pothole abuse, having a bike get knocked around in a rack, etc all are things the Dyad could take more of before giving than the A23.
04-10-15 | 10:21 PM
#35
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The lightest option not always being the best theory is simple, not every scenario makes weight the critical factor. For racing, more often than not aero is faster, for more utilitarian type riding, you really are not pushing the bike hard enough to feel a weight difference so if you can have a more foolproof/durable set of wheels you will likely be much happier in the end.
I would not call the A23 worse than the Dyad, just different. I am actually a huge A23 fan but the A23 is fairly light more performance oriented rim. While it is quite durable, the Dyad is still built to be tougher so it could handle incidentals that always come up in commuting better. Things like repeated pothole abuse, having a bike get knocked around in a rack, etc all are things the Dyad could take more of before giving than the A23.
I would not call the A23 worse than the Dyad, just different. I am actually a huge A23 fan but the A23 is fairly light more performance oriented rim. While it is quite durable, the Dyad is still built to be tougher so it could handle incidentals that always come up in commuting better. Things like repeated pothole abuse, having a bike get knocked around in a rack, etc all are things the Dyad could take more of before giving than the A23.
04-10-15 | 10:43 PM
#36
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From: Eugene, Oregon, USA
I've been happy with the Aerohead.
The A23 is a little wider.
The Dyad is wider, taller, and heavier.
So, one might expect the Dyad to be a bit stronger than the A23. Is it really necessary?
Bottoming out your tire is bad on the rim, so if you can keep an adequate tire size/inflation to prevent bottoming out, then it will do a lot to protect the rim.
It is quite possible that anything that you hit that is severe enough to bend the A23 would also bend the Dyad, but it would depend a bit on one's riding.
Oh, one other point. It appears as if the current USA A23 rims are "tubelesss ready". The Dyad is not. If you are planning on going tubeless, then get the A23. If not, the Dyad may be easier to change tires in the field without tools.
The A23 is a little wider.
The Dyad is wider, taller, and heavier.
So, one might expect the Dyad to be a bit stronger than the A23. Is it really necessary?
Bottoming out your tire is bad on the rim, so if you can keep an adequate tire size/inflation to prevent bottoming out, then it will do a lot to protect the rim.
It is quite possible that anything that you hit that is severe enough to bend the A23 would also bend the Dyad, but it would depend a bit on one's riding.
Oh, one other point. It appears as if the current USA A23 rims are "tubelesss ready". The Dyad is not. If you are planning on going tubeless, then get the A23. If not, the Dyad may be easier to change tires in the field without tools.
04-10-15 | 11:16 PM
#37
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I've ridden multiple rims flat for miles when I could not repair a flat, including rims that are lighter than A23s.
04-11-15 | 10:12 AM
#38
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Up until the early 1980s, virtually all adult bikes had 72 spokes.32 front/40 rear was the standard for British bikes, 36 front and rear for other countries. The exception was super-fancy special-purpose racing wheels, which might have 32 spokes front and rear.
The Great Spoke Scam: In the early '80s a clever marketeer hit upon the idea of using only 32 spokes in wheels for production bikes. Because of the association of 32-spoke wheels with exotic, high-performance bikes, the manufacturers were able to cut corners and save money while presenting it as an "upgrade!" The resulting wheels were noticeably weaker than comparable 36-spoke wheels, but held up well enough for most customers.Since then, this practice has been carried to an extreme, with 28-, 24-, even 16-spoke wheels being offered, and presented as it they were somehow an "upgrade."
Actually, such wheels normally are not an upgrade in practice. When the spokes are farther apart on the rim, it is necessary to use a heavier rim to compensate, so there isn't usually even a weight benefit from these newer wheels!
This type of wheel requires unusually high spoke tension, since the load is carried by fewer spokes. If a spoke does break, the wheel generally becomes instantly unridable. The hub may break too; see John Allen's article.
The Great Spoke Scam: In the early '80s a clever marketeer hit upon the idea of using only 32 spokes in wheels for production bikes. Because of the association of 32-spoke wheels with exotic, high-performance bikes, the manufacturers were able to cut corners and save money while presenting it as an "upgrade!" The resulting wheels were noticeably weaker than comparable 36-spoke wheels, but held up well enough for most customers.Since then, this practice has been carried to an extreme, with 28-, 24-, even 16-spoke wheels being offered, and presented as it they were somehow an "upgrade."
Actually, such wheels normally are not an upgrade in practice. When the spokes are farther apart on the rim, it is necessary to use a heavier rim to compensate, so there isn't usually even a weight benefit from these newer wheels!
This type of wheel requires unusually high spoke tension, since the load is carried by fewer spokes. If a spoke does break, the wheel generally becomes instantly unridable. The hub may break too; see John Allen's article.
Last edited by RubeRad; 04-11-15 at 10:24 AM.
04-11-15 | 02:12 PM
#39
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From: Colorado Springs
Bikes: Borealis Echo, Ground Up Designs Ti Cross bike, Xtracycle, GT mod trials bike, pixie race machine
I have seen commuters destroy even rhynolites so there are some pretty abusive commuters out there. By destroy I am not talking about spoke issues but bad dents/flat spots, while not every type of damage is always preventable, sometimes having an overbuilt rim can be just enough to keep your rim from being damaged from running through a deep pothole one morning.
I am not trying to argue with you over if an A23 can handle commuting duty as it absolutely can, and is what I use personally. I am just saying that in my experience most commuters I have worked with could never tell the weight difference between the two rims and seem to appreciate the extra bit of insurance that comes from a tougher rim on their commuter as most of the commuters around here seem to have their bikes take a serious beating while locked up in racks with a questionable design. A little extra material is also nice when it comes to things like brake track wear as well.
04-11-15 | 05:12 PM
#40
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