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Originally Posted by icyj
(Post 17718809)
+1 to FrankHudson's advise, especially the studs.
To add to this great advice, have a backup plan/emergency contact! I have broken down in sub-zero temps (once a bent rear-dérailleur after slipping on ice [no studs on that ride] in cross winds), it can be extremely difficult to just get your fingers out in the air just to make a phone call! I also always carry chemical warmers in my panniers when it is cold, along with additional layers if I have to wait for a ride. |
Originally Posted by wolfchild
(Post 17703549)
For arctic conditions I would choose a mountain bike with a rigid fork or a fat bike. Avoid MTB's with suspension forks, because suspension doesn't work well in extremely cold temperatures.
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Well, yes you can walk that distance, which is good as a B plan. And I'm sure somewhere there's a walker's forum where most folks will prefer hoofing it to a bike ride. And there are I'm sure a lot of skiers would prefer to ski it. I understand there are some places where riding tauntauns is the way to go (and tauntauns have that wonderful B plan). But bike riders might choose biking because they want to, because it's more fun for them (and because it's faster than walking).
My experience is that yes, there a days that are less fun, but even in a MN winter climate, there a lots of great days too. |
If it's in your affordability, I highly recommend a Surly Karate Monkey. You can put any size of 29" or 700c tires on it because they are the same rim diameter, plus you can mount disc brakes. Remember, taller tires are ALWAYS better in snow, and disc brakes are ALWAYS better in snow. If you buy a steel framed bike new, make sure to have the insides of the tubing treated with Frame Saver or lindseed oil before you start riding it.
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