Good bike for winter commuting?? Help :D
 

Hi Everyone,

I'll start off by say I'm new to this forum and have done a fair bit of research on this topic already, but I feel there are many lingering questions I still have.

So here's the deal for my situation. I'll be commuting at best 4KM's to get to work and instead of buying a car, a bike seems far more practical and environmentally/health friendly. That being said, the winters up here can be extremely harsh (-40 or so) and I'm well aware about layering and such to keep warm.

But the primary issue I'm running into is regarding what kind of bike I should buy. I've read a fair bit on this topic and I feel overwhelmed as to all the options out there. From what I gathered for winter commuting, it would be best if I purchased a bike without any suspension because in my climate it would wear down quickly. Is this really the case? I'm not overly concerned on price, but I'd prefer to be frugal and save my coin. Any ideas on what a solid bike to buy for winter commuting would be? Also, would I want to swap from like studded tires to regular tires in the summer?

As this thread expands, I'll get more into the deeper questions I have. But as it stands, I'd just like to get a couple opinions about my current situation.

Any help would be greatly appreciated, this is all very new to me.

Thanks!

You will want to swap out tire and use studded in the winter. Best bet for an inexpensive bike for commuting is finding a vintage mtb and modding it as needed. They're readily available and they're not expensive. Being upright is a good choice for a short commute.

-40 F is the same as -40 C, that's really cold. Where are you located?

I live in the Northwest Territories. I'm referring to -40 C :) I'll check out the mtb bikes. Side note, mtb - mountain bike? haha

Is there a lot of snow or do they plow regularly?

They should be plowed for the most part, but there's no guarantee that they will be. I imagine if I take the back roads, I'll be just following in a vehicles tracks. There are really no trails out here that will be maintained, so my options are limited. The only bonus is how short and flat the bike ride will be.

This was my first winter on a carbon belt drive bike, and I love how low-maintenance my ride has been (no chains to clean and lubricate), particularly considering how silly lubricants get in the extreme cold. I have an internally geared hub (IGH) to deal with mild hills.

If your route is super-flat, you might want to consider the belt drive on a single speed (the oil bath in the IGH hub congeals in extreme cold). Studded tires will be a needed accessory, and mechanical disk brakes would be desirable (I have had issues with seals on hydraulics when it goes below 0F). Have fun with your research!

Did you know that -40ºC equals -40ºF? It's true!

There is a winter cycling section of bikeforums. Take a look. There are a few Canadians and Minnesotans and the like who commute in pretty much all kinds of winter weather.

This seems like a good idea. Even in the worst weather, you should be safe if 4km is the greatest distance you have to cover. In fact, it may be safer than in a car.

Get used to pushing the bike.

I'll do 1 mile (1.6km) in just about any weather, but 4km I'd personally not do below about -20c (-1f). Then again, NWT folks are a different breed :-)

My go to bike for any commuting is a Dutch Opafiets which is what I ride all year. I put Schwalbe Marathon Winters (studded) on as soon as it snows. Having the entire drivetrain and brakes full enclosed is critical during winter for me. City Bikes | LocalMile

In extreme cold like that you can have cable freeze ups so I'd go with a coaster rear brake and roller front so that you'll always have some braking capability (coaster always works). Also stick to middle gears (4,5,6) on extremely cold days so that if your shift cable freezes you'll be in a good gear. On my Workcycles Omafiets (8 speed Shimano hub) I can ride anywhere in 5th gear.

Well relatively helpful responses so far, thanks everyone for their input.

With all this being said, is there a brand of bike brand that would be recommended in my situation? Those citybikes are an interesting concept, however are there companies out here that sell them?

Like I would think an entry level giant bike at 500 that has no suspension and good quality gears/breaks/chain would be a relatively cost effective option. Would there be something better? An how hard is it to swap out different tires as the seasons change for someone that is totally new to doing such work?

I just finished my first winter of bicycle commuting. I used a mountain bike (actually 2 but won't go into details). The bike I used was what the neighbour was throwing out when my son picked it up several years ago so it was a beater and it was free. It happened to be a Giant. Just remember, you're going for stability and handling not speed.

Just a few checks to make sure the brakes and gear shifting was in proper order and with studded tires a bell, mirror, rear rack and it was ready to go.

My limitation is 5cm of fresh snow. Just can't pedal through it until after it's been packed down. So make sure your tires are wide enough or check the route you'll be taking. Will it be busy enough for motor vehicles to pack and make tracks for you after a heavy snowfall? Will there be pedestrians packing and cutting trails for you in Multi-Use-Paths?

I was considering a fat bike but I just can't justify spending $500 or more for a new bike that's going to be subjected to the worse conditions and then risking it getting stolen. So if you can find a used mountain bike with forks that can accommodate 3inch or wider tires, go for it.

Well.. I was looking at https://www.norco.com/bikes/mountain...ot/bigfoot-63/

This would be strictly for winter commutes and I'll have my standard bike for the other season. Is there a better company than norco around the same price? Should I just buy a used one ?

Only 4km? That distance really most decent bikes should handle fine. I agree with belt drive. Maybe even single speed to cut down on parts that could go wrong in the cold. Front and rear drum brakes. Might want to look into handlebar hand protectors, which block the wind off your hands. I'd also suggest steel fenders and a frame without a lot of odd shaped tubing, as who knows how the cold will affect non-round shapes. I also suggest kenda tough tubes, which are thicker than regular tubes.

- Andy

In those temps you have to prepare to walk the bike if it develops a mechanical problem. I've tried changing a flat tyre in -20C and even that didn't work out too well (read: at all). Wear sturdy winter boots and carry enough clothes with you.

You may need to flush the rear hub and put some thinner lubricant in there. I've had a freehub freeze during a ride, meaning it's freely coasting in both directions. Had to walk the bike home.

Get good lights. I invested in a dynohub based lighting system, partly due to experience that batteries can be tricky in very cold temperatures.

--J

For arctic conditions I would choose a mountain bike with a rigid fork or a fat bike. Avoid MTB's with suspension forks, because suspension doesn't work well in extremely cold temperatures.

I was an every day Minnesota winter commuter with a 5 mile commute for a number of years. I'm now just a regular winter rider. I've ridden a lot in the 0 F. to -20 F. temp. On thing that taught me--there's a lot of difference between 0 F. and -20 F -- just as much or more than there is between 0 F and 20 F. Which means I don't know what -40 F. is like. The only cold-based mechanical issue I've had with three bike (oil bath Raleigh Sports 3 Spd IGH, early derailleur mountain bike and a 5 Spd SA IGH bike with mechanical disk brakes) was slow to no-existent shifting on the modern 5 Spd IGH. This basically made the 5 Spd into a one speed in below 0 F. cold. I got the hub filled with better low temp grease last fall and it then shifted all last winter (lowest temp: single digits below zero F.)

Snow can be an issue. I don't know about fat bikes with 4 inch tires in deep rutted snow (only taken trial rides on them). But on conventional width tires, you learn as best you can to ride the ruts, spin through loose undisturbed snow (more work, but kinda fun), and yes, portage your bike over snow banks or drifts. Rim brakes can have issues with snow to slush turns to ice build-up. So far I've not seen that on my disks.

On rides like yours, if you dress right, you'll be warmer than getting into a car and waiting for it to warm up. Use lighter than you'd think wind proof layer, and then insulation layers under that as needed. You will probably need full face covering at the lower range of temps including goggles. Goggle fogging is an issue I've yet to solve. On my shorter rides that means ridding with goggles, have the antifog treatment work to clear them a couple of times until that washes out and then finishing the ride's last part with no goggles before frostbite can set in. Mittens or handlebar poggies are required at the lower range of your temps. If you use mittens, make sure your controls work with mittens. If you already ski or do other winter exercise you already know this clothing stuff.

Yes, you want studs. No reason to go without them in winter biking where ice may be present in my opinion.

Yes, batteries work differently at those temps. I had good luck with regular Duracell like batteries in lights kept inside and warm until needed.

Yes, you aren't going to fix a flat tire or broken chain at these temps. You're going to walk your bike home or use another option.

I don't know enough about your winter climate, but here in MN, I'm proud that we can figure out how to ride at -20 F. -- but frankly it's more fun and less trouble to ride at 0 F to 20 above zero , which is really the more typical winter ride here. Similarly, riding is fresh light snow is fun, riding in frozen ruts days later less so.

I grew up in Missouri and I've lived in Minnesota for the last thirty years. I think studded tires are more necessary in the former (unless, of course, plows polish the snow down into hardpack). Advice above is good. I would actually be more detailed about clothing than the bike. Any decent old MTB would work. I use Boeshield T9 year round as my drivetrain lube. The best thing about T9 is that it avoids rust. After a fall and winter of hard riding and commuting through snow and salt on my fatbike (which I store, with my other bikes, in an unheated garage. I know people say you should store your bike indoors, but those people are probably not married...) I got around two weeks ago to giving it a good cleaning with Odorless Mineral Spirits. There was not a speck of rust on anythibng. Boeshield is gold. So, lube, tires as fat as you can fit at low pressure, and ride.

I think a piece or equipment that a lot of folks don't mention. And living in an area like yours where snow comes in buckets. I'd recommend a pair of gaitors to keep the cold and the snow out of the top of your boot.

I think that will be ideal. I don't think you can get a comparable bike in the US for any less. This place is selling a single speed pugsley (might be better for a flat frigid commute so you don't have to worry about your derailer(s) getting encased in ice) for $1350.

These fatbikes are $700 from BD but I don't know if they ship to Canada much less to NWT

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4 km = 2.5 miles. That's walking distance, as far as I'm concerned. No need to spend money on a bike if your goal is not to drive a car.

:lol: It is true and that's why I am laughing.

My winters go up to -15 C. Roads are plowed and salted regularly. In those conditions: old 1996. rigid MTB with Schwalbe Marathon Winter tyres 47-559 works perfectly. I lube cables and shifter pivot points with fully synthetic engine oil and they don't freeze up. My ride is on flat land, so V-brakes work wonderfully even in the snow.

Your conditions may vary. Deeper, unplowed snow asks for fatter tyres with more deep thread. I'd recommend front tyre to be studded as well, at least the front one (for hilly rides, make it both).

For hilly terrain, I'd recommend disc brakes.

Also for -40C - some synthetic oil in a gear hub, instead of grease and no external shifters, since they would freeze. If flat terrain, then a fixed gear would be simpler, cheaper solution.

4 km is about 40 minutes of brisk walk and 10 minutes on bicycle. 20 vs 50 minutes in the snow.

And if the snow/ice is bad enough, you might be walking the bike anyway for stretches of the route. Why bring it along? Just bundle up. :)

+1 to FrankHudson's advise, especially the studs and goggles. Regular glasses and cold temps = frozen eyeballs, no kidding.

To add to this great advice, have a backup plan/emergency contact! I have broken down in sub-zero temps (once a bent rear-dérailleur after slipping on ice [no studs on that ride] in cross winds), it can be extremely difficult to just get your fingers out in the air to make a phone call!

I also always carry chemical warmers in my panniers when it is cold, along with additional layers if I have to wait for a ride.