Best commuting bike?
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Best commuting bike?
Looking to buy or build a bike for general riding around town and commuting. Used or new ok. Ideally I would carry things in a saddle bag or on a rack instead of a bag on my back. My priorities are geared for big hills, lightweight (I'm used to a 15-16 lb fixed gear), can fit fenders and rack, can carry light loads. Any help greatly appreciated.
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I used a Specialized Sirrus Expert to build up my commuter, and I am really liking it.
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Looking to buy or build a bike for general riding around town and commuting. Used or new ok. Ideally I would carry things in a saddle bag or on a rack instead of a bag on my back. My priorities are geared for big hills, lightweight (I'm used to a 15-16 lb fixed gear), can fit fenders and rack, can carry light loads. Any help greatly appreciated.
Where do you live?
How high is the theft risk where you are?
Do you want to be sitting upright or in a more aerodynamic position?
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The best commuting bike is a bike that:
- fits you well and is comfortable
- fits your riding/commuting needs
- a bike which you enjoy riding
Every person has their own personal definition of what a "perfect commuter bike" should be... One persons perfect bike may be an abomination to another person. If you're not sure what you're looking for then try out few different bikes and decide which one you like best.
- fits you well and is comfortable
- fits your riding/commuting needs
- a bike which you enjoy riding
Every person has their own personal definition of what a "perfect commuter bike" should be... One persons perfect bike may be an abomination to another person. If you're not sure what you're looking for then try out few different bikes and decide which one you like best.
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Under 2k budget ideally lower is better (low 1k or high hundreds ideal). I live in Oakland CA. Theft is very high here but I store it in my apartment which is safe. I am not opposed to destroying the paint job to help reduce the chance of theft. There are some steep hills thus the light weight requirement. I've always ridden bikes with classic bars. I would be open to trying more upright. In my estimation a touring bike or a road bike that can accommodate larger than 23 is good. My favorite bikes were a late 70s Colnago Super and an 80s Rossin track bike and I like the light weight of my custom Zinn track bike. All of those are steel but I'm not opposed to aluminum as long as it's not a noodle and I'm ok with carbon but not full carbon. Not opposed to going with a reasonably cheap frame builder who can do a light tig welded steel frame.
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I'm assuming you're OK with a wrench. In that case, there seem to be plenty of older road-style bikes that should fit the bill if they have clearance for wider tires and fenders, and attachment points for the typical commuting accouterments.
Needless to say, it has to look good, without looking like you care how it looks.
Needless to say, it has to look good, without looking like you care how it looks.
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I would be ok with sanding the paint off and spraying clear to make it look ****ty. I really don't want a flashy bike.
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Leave the paint , Apply Duct tape . get a really Serious Security Lock up scheme , so some one else's bike looks easier to steal .
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It's actually really hard to find a lightweight vintage steel bike that has any brazons/eyelets for fenders and rack. Most touring bikes are heavy and most light bikes have no brazons and rarely have one. But bikes with fender brazons are usually heavier. It would be easier to order a custom frame but those aren't cheap...
#10
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Wuss ,, the difference in the frame is not that much , its the racks and the rest of the components to make it fit for purpose
that add weight .
Nothing weighs less than a Part Not Installed . If weight is your primary issue stick with the 1 speeds.
that add weight .
Nothing weighs less than a Part Not Installed . If weight is your primary issue stick with the 1 speeds.
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Let's stay focused, people of the Internet. Not interested in a fixed gear (read above, I have a 15-16 lb fixed gear). The bike should ideally be light (sub 20 lbs pre rack and fenders), wide gearing, accommodate fenders, rack, steel or aluminum ok, carbon fork/stays ok (assuming they even make those with fender mounts), accommodate somewhat larger tires (up to 28, maybe 32).
Last edited by kyledr; 08-01-15 at 10:30 AM.
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It's actually really hard to find a lightweight vintage steel bike that has any brazons/eyelets for fenders and rack. Most touring bikes are heavy and most light bikes have no brazons and rarely have one. But bikes with fender brazons are usually heavier. It would be easier to order a custom frame but those aren't cheap...
Marin's Fairfax line is well under your budget and offers a wide range of commuter bikes including internal hub and belt drive options for those wet NoCal winters.
Marin Bikes | Fairfax | Mountain Bikes, Road Bikes, and City/Commuter Bicycles | us
Public is lower end but there are a lot of them on the streets down there and their brick and mortar shop is near downtown SF in case of issues.
Best city road bike - the new PUBLIC R24
For custom builds/frames, Bruce Gordon is right up the road in Petaluma, Mikkelsen is even closer in Alameda and Inglis is up in Napa.
Kestrel, Santa Cruz and of course Specialized are headquartered in California but I believe all are corporate subsidiaries and not true local makers any more, if that matters to you.
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Just have to say, once you add gears weight becomes a lot less of an issue. You wI'll have trouble finding something vintage under 20 lbs that meets your needs. Maybe look at a CAAD 10. I don't know of their mounting capabilites but they fit in your weight and price range. Again though, weight means very little once you put gears on a bike.
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Trek fx and Specialized Sirrus lines are both meant to be light bikes, vaguely in the spirit of '80s mountain bikes. They both take racks and fenders. My wife likes her fx 7.2, which is toward the cheaper end of the line.
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You've already found real racy road bikes, which would be the nearest approximation to a track bike, don't suit your requirements for luggage. You just need to decide how much to compromise.
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The Marin Fairfax SC6 DLX would be my dream commuter bike but the Alfine 11 hub and commuter features puts it out of my budget.
A commuting bike that is outfitted with everything needed for serious commuting and is well designed. As a car replacement, its worth the serious moolah.
A commuting bike that is outfitted with everything needed for serious commuting and is well designed. As a car replacement, its worth the serious moolah.
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What if I did away with that pesky budget requirement? For a custom frame, what is the lightest steel tubing that would be sane to use for commuting? If I go with a Rohloff Speedhub, do you think I can get it sub-20 pre-racks/pre-fenders? Would you go with disc brakes or cantilevers or other type of brakes? Also what group would you use? Modern or vintage?
Edit: also, if I were to build this bike custom, it would be a dream bike, so it would be for more than just commuting. Unweighted fun rides, light touring, potentially long touring again some day, and commuting. I would sell my road bike as a result.
Edit: also, if I were to build this bike custom, it would be a dream bike, so it would be for more than just commuting. Unweighted fun rides, light touring, potentially long touring again some day, and commuting. I would sell my road bike as a result.
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Find a good quality vintage sports touring bike. I don't know if it will fit you but the bike that @Kactus is selling is a fine example of a high end vintage sports touring bike that would make a first rate commuter.
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...ai-4000-a.html
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...ai-4000-a.html
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If you're thinking of replacing your car, custom is the way to go.
You can have everything you need built to the bike rather than just putting it together with aftermarket parts.
And you might find you might not miss your road bike.
I'd recommend a Surly Straggler 650B and go from there. Discuss with your shop with your requirements and with a base price of $1700, you could come up with a very nice bike!
Still far less expensive than a Rene Herse or an Alex Singer constructeur bike. They're highly regarded as the acme of the commuter bike.
Rene Herse project is about the Rene Herse velo de cyclotourisme, also Camille Daudon Alex Singer Narcisse Barra Maury Dujardin Goeland.
You can have everything you need built to the bike rather than just putting it together with aftermarket parts.
And you might find you might not miss your road bike.
I'd recommend a Surly Straggler 650B and go from there. Discuss with your shop with your requirements and with a base price of $1700, you could come up with a very nice bike!
Still far less expensive than a Rene Herse or an Alex Singer constructeur bike. They're highly regarded as the acme of the commuter bike.
Rene Herse project is about the Rene Herse velo de cyclotourisme, also Camille Daudon Alex Singer Narcisse Barra Maury Dujardin Goeland.
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For something you want to possibly tour with, I think you need to get rid of your pesky weight requirement. Also, a Rholoff hub at that weight seems like a dream. Maybe if y oy throw enough money at it you will get something you like. If you are throwing your budget, go get a Moots
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What if I did away with that pesky budget requirement? For a custom frame, what is the lightest steel tubing that would be sane to use for commuting? If I go with a Rohloff Speedhub, do you think I can get it sub-20 pre-racks/pre-fenders? Would you go with disc brakes or cantilevers or other type of brakes? Also what group would you use? Modern or vintage?
Edit: also, if I were to build this bike custom, it would be a dream bike, so it would be for more than just commuting. Unweighted fun rides, light touring, potentially long touring again some day, and commuting. I would sell my road bike as a result.
Edit: also, if I were to build this bike custom, it would be a dream bike, so it would be for more than just commuting. Unweighted fun rides, light touring, potentially long touring again some day, and commuting. I would sell my road bike as a result.
If you run a Rohloff, you don't also need a group, modern or vintage, you just need cranks, bottom bracket and brakes, the shifting is all done within the hub.
Rohloff is HEAVY though, heavier than even the cheapest derailleur system.
Disc brakes are also heavier than rim brakes.
Moots, mentioned below, makes titanium bikes, I don't believe they do any steel.
Seven Cycles from near Boston does steel, so do R + E (Rodriguez) in Seattle and Davidson, also in Seattle.
Because of the weight, Rohloff is more of a touring option than a road bike option. The only internal hub road bike I can recall seeing recently is the BMC Alpenchallenge, and that is a Shimano Alfine, not a Rohloff.
#22
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I have a steel touring bike. Once I added a heavy duty rack, stainless steel fenders, a dynamo hub, 36 spoke wheels, brooks saddle, and some pedals with a platform on one side... the bike weighed in at 34 lbs. I'm about 230 lbs and carry about 15 lbs in my pannier on the back. I added another 16+ lbs to make it an ideal commuter... a bionx electric motor and battery. Weight is no issue. I don't have a throttle hooked up. It's pedal assist only. However, my slightly uphill commute home is a breeze. And budget? I hope it's not an issue... I have $4000+ invested in my commuter rain bike.
My only desire is to add disc brakes. Working on it. If you're getting/building a new commuter, I think I would make it a priority if you're planning on riding much in the rain.
My only desire is to add disc brakes. Working on it. If you're getting/building a new commuter, I think I would make it a priority if you're planning on riding much in the rain.
Last edited by InTheRain; 08-02-15 at 11:03 PM.
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Let's stay focused, people of the Internet. Not interested in a fixed gear (read above, I have a 15-16 lb fixed gear). The bike should ideally be light (sub 20 lbs pre rack and fenders), wide gearing, accommodate fenders, rack, steel or aluminum ok, carbon fork/stays ok (assuming they even make those with fender mounts), accommodate somewhat larger tires (up to 28, maybe 32).
There are very few, if any "commuter" ie hybrid/touring bikes which weigh under 20 lbs and cost less than a grand.
I would think you would've known all of that by now.
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What if I did away with that pesky budget requirement? For a custom frame, what is the lightest steel tubing that would be sane to use for commuting? If I go with a Rohloff Speedhub, do you think I can get it sub-20 pre-racks/pre-fenders? Would you go with disc brakes or cantilevers or other type of brakes? Also what group would you use? Modern or vintage?
Edit: also, if I were to build this bike custom, it would be a dream bike, so it would be for more than just commuting. Unweighted fun rides, light touring, potentially long touring again some day, and commuting. I would sell my road bike as a result.
Edit: also, if I were to build this bike custom, it would be a dream bike, so it would be for more than just commuting. Unweighted fun rides, light touring, potentially long touring again some day, and commuting. I would sell my road bike as a result.
The purposes you've listed are not easily met by a single bike. Anyway, good luck, especially since your criteria change every time you post.
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Under 2k budget ideally lower is better (low 1k or high hundreds ideal). I live in Oakland CA. Theft is very high here but I store it in my apartment which is safe. I am not opposed to destroying the paint job to help reduce the chance of theft. There are some steep hills thus the light weight requirement. I've always ridden bikes with classic bars. I would be open to trying more upright. In my estimation a touring bike or a road bike that can accommodate larger than 23 is good. My favorite bikes were a late 70s Colnago Super and an 80s Rossin track bike and I like the light weight of my custom Zinn track bike. All of those are steel but I'm not opposed to aluminum as long as it's not a noodle and I'm ok with carbon but not full carbon. Not opposed to going with a reasonably cheap frame builder who can do a light tig welded steel frame.
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