Mountain bike to commuter
#26
Senior Member

Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 6,431
Likes: 44
From: Minneapolis, MN
I don't know the min and max on your rim, but usually it's between 1.25" and 2.2". Like I said in an earlier post, I think 1.5" is ideal on a bike that came with 2" tires.
The difference between 1.25" and 1.5" in speed is very small, but the difference in comfort is rather large.
The different between 1.5" and 2.0" in speed is far larger, and the difference in comfort is rather small.
Also on loose stuff 2.0" has more of a tendency to slide around, 1.5" feels like it bites into the surface more and I feel more in control of the bike.
Obviously personal opinions differ, those are my thoughts. It's worthwhile to replace the tires with slicks, but once you get into replacing a fork your money would be better spent on going for a new more road oriented bike.
#28
Full Member
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 457
Likes: 10
From: Central Oregon
Bikes: Redline Conquest Pro, Kona Cinder Cone, Trek Fuel EX8(RIP) Pivot Mach 5 frankenbike
Mountain bike to commuter is a pretty solid conversion and the result is similar to a German city bike. My Kona Cinder Cone has a Salsa suspension corrected steel fork, Specialized Nimbus slicks a rack and fenders all nicely bolted on to the eyelets on the dropouts. The end result cost a bit to buy a fork and tires but worked out better than getting another bike of comparable quality.
#29
Disco Infiltrator




Joined: May 2013
Posts: 15,332
Likes: 3,520
From: Folsom CA
Bikes: Stormchaser, Paramount, Tilt, Samba tandem
You replace-the-fork guys are killing me! This is an XT-level cross country racing bike with a Lefty Head Shok. It predates the time anyone wanted disks on a commuter, so I would not be surprised to learn it has no rack or fender eyes, and difficult if it did. Let it be what it is, and tell OP to get a hybrid!
__________________
Genesis 49:16-17
"Well, well!" said Holmes, impatiently. "A good cyclist does not need a high road. The moor is intersected with paths and the moon is at the full."
Genesis 49:16-17
"Well, well!" said Holmes, impatiently. "A good cyclist does not need a high road. The moor is intersected with paths and the moon is at the full."
#31
Senior Member


Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 6,926
Likes: 1,272
You replace-the-fork guys are killing me! This is an XT-level cross country racing bike with a Lefty Head Shok. It predates the time anyone wanted disks on a commuter, so I would not be surprised to learn it has no rack or fender eyes, and difficult if it did. Let it be what it is, and tell OP to get a hybrid!
#32
Please stop the name calling.
#34
I run my front tire at about 75 PSI and my rear at 90, and while it is true the fatter tires like Big Apples and Big Bens were a little more comfortable over the rough roads here, I don't think they were worth the penalty in handling and speed. Someone mentioned Continental Town & Country's, I used to like these when they were available in 1.75" and I think they were slightly different in compound and tread, but I don't think they're a good tire in larger sizes than that. The Big Ben is a much better ~2" tire. BTW, I was glad I went with the 2.15" size, the 2.35" wouldn't have fit under fenders at all.
#35
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 470
Likes: 3
From: Napa, California
What was "bad" about the larger size town and country? Just curious, I don't have a ton of experience with them, just have a few hundred miles of gravel riding on a set of 1.9" not sure what I'm missing...no flats, they've seemed to perform just fine for me, but perhaps I'm not particularly discerning.
And, yeesh, that tire pressure he mentioned is so damn high. he's only a couple PSI down from what pressure I ran my 700x25 tires at. My fast, 700x35 tires are usually set to 60f/65 rear, and dropped down in the 50psi range for mixed road riding. Anything even approaching MTB sizes doesn't even get close to 65PSI for me. I don't even know why you'd run tires that wide if you're just jacking up the pressure and taking away any of the benefit. Unless you're a really big guy running a heavy load.
my 26x2.1 tires get set to about 35/40, and then don't get topped off for weeks. Usually the ride quality improves a week or so later. my balloon tires got set to about 30.
edit: hmm, this actually seems to be a common occurrence. Nearly everyone I've heard who didn't think wider tires were any good, almost always ran them at about double the necessary pressure. The whole point of wider is you can run less and less pressure with no negatives. Bumping it up above a certain point only make the ride quality and handling turn to ****, with no speed gains.
Last edited by AlTheKiller; 09-02-15 at 12:34 PM.
#36
meh

Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 4,742
Likes: 1,129
From: Hopkins, MN
Bikes: 23 Cutthroat, 21 CoMotion Java; 21 Bianchi Infinito; 15 Surly Pugsley; 11 Globe Daily; 09 Kona Dew Drop; 96 Mondonico
I find even .5 watt too much, unless its rainy out, so I let the batteries run down in my garage and use the light only after its really, really dim. Sometimes the light goes out completely half-way through my commute. Perfect. I may soon try just not using any lights at all at night.
Bike lights serve two functions, to been seem by other traffic, and to light your path. Think about a light that fits both needs. If you live in the 'burbs with little street lights, you want 700 lumens for night riding. In the city, with lots of street lights, you can run with a lower, ~25 lumens.
If you are using a bright light, be thoughtful about the adjustment/angle, you don't want to point a bright light at driver's eye-level. I like to turn on the light in the garage and see that the beam of the light is roughly a car-length out in front of the bike.
To the OP question, I commuted (11 miles one-way) by MTB with front suspension for years. It was just fine. When I decided to commit to daily bike-commuting, I purchased a new bike with drop bars and narrow tires. It made the ride faster (& funner*). I kept the MTB for winter riding and some single-track riding.
* Yes, I said "funner" and funner is not a word. Deal with it!
#38
Senior Member

Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 6,431
Likes: 44
From: Minneapolis, MN
Satisfaction levels with fixed gear bikes vary a lot. Some people love them, some people absolutely hate them. Generally the more the roads are flat the more people like them.
#39
Nigel
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 2,991
Likes: 7
From: San Jose, CA
Bikes: 1980s and 1990s steel: CyclePro, Nishiki, Schwinn, SR, Trek........
#40
2002 Cannondale F1000SL CAAD5 "Full Wood" easily converts to a blazing-fast, 700c commuter. The rear allows huge tire clearance, up to 35c slicks. The front is nearly unlimited, with a Lefty. I have the Volvo Team race version of your bike....fully converted to a flatbar, 700c Urban/Cyclocross machine:
Last edited by Dilberto; 09-03-15 at 11:13 PM.
#41
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 470
Likes: 3
From: Napa, California
I got back into cycling on a cheap Bikesdirect fixed gear. I think it was $250 at the time, but this was also right as fixed gear bikes were really turning into a marketable niche, prices have probably gone up since. The frame and components were still entry level-ish (tires and saddle being complete rubbish), but a nice step up from the trash on the market nowadays, which can be hard to avoid.
#44
Anyways, I was looking for a fixed gear to go around town and for commuting, but realised I could not do alot with it (cant climb sidewalks or those kind of things) so I thought I might switch some things on my mtb to make it more road friendly. I want to be able to bike comfortably and go moderately fast on the cycling roads and all that stuff.
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"He who serves all, best serves himself" Jack London
#45
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 5,331
Likes: 12
From: Kent Wa.
Bikes: 2005 Gazelle Golfo, 1935 Raleigh Sport, 1970 Robin Hood sport, 1974 Schwinn Continental, 1984 Ross MTB/porteur, 2013 Flying Piegon path racer, 2014 Gazelle Toer Populair T8
I put Kojak 2.0 slicks on my Ross and they were great for the summer and in town, but offered inadequate traction in the perpetual wet of the PNW on rural roads and MUTs.
Vittoria randonneur cross in 1.75 solved the issues with slick conditions, with little change in speed or comfort, and seem to be less susceptible to cuts.
Vittoria randonneur cross in 1.75 solved the issues with slick conditions, with little change in speed or comfort, and seem to be less susceptible to cuts.
#46
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 2,285
Likes: 1
From: Kherson, Ukraine
Bikes: Old steel GT's, for touring and commuting
What was "bad" about the larger size town and country? Just curious, I don't have a ton of experience with them, just have a few hundred miles of gravel riding on a set of 1.9" not sure what I'm missing...no flats, they've seemed to perform just fine for me, but perhaps I'm not particularly discerning.
#47
Banned
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 8,701
Likes: 2,506
From: Mississauga/Toronto, Ontario canada
Bikes: I have 3 singlespeed/fixed gear bikes
Yes it's possible to climb sidewalks and ride up and down the curbs with a fixed gear, you just need to be careful how you approach the curb and make sure that your pedal doesn't hit the curb. I do it all the time.
#48
Senior Member

Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,168
Likes: 25
From: The First State.
Bikes: Schwinn Continental, Schwinn Paramount, Schwinn High Plains, Schwinn World Sport, Trek 420, Trek 930,Trek 660, Novara X-R, Giant Iguana. Fuji Sagres mixte.
I recommend Panaracer Tservs in 1.75 (42mm). They are light, have good flat protection, and roll well.






