DIY chain cover
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 15,278
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From: Alpharetta, GA
Bikes: Nashbar Road
DIY chain cover
I'm showing in more detail the aluminum strip chain cover from my Dawes SST Review thread. This is amazingly easy to construct with basic tools considering my lack of crafting skills. since this was my first try there are several things that can be improved, or just constructed better by someone with skills. It took me a couple of hours, much of it spent on head-scratching and dull drill bits.
It is a partial chain case, just a strip around the chain to protect my pants and to keep the worst of the elements from the drive train. It works pretty well for that:

The cover is an aluminum carpet seam strip. It is 1 1/4" wide which is just about perfect IMO, although I think +/- 1/4" would also work. I started with a 10 or 12 foot strip from Home Depot to make fenders with ($14), and had some left over so this was mostly zero cost. I also used a couple of nuts and bolts, a re-purposed reflector mount, some old inner tube rubber, and a few zip ties.
The only difficult challenge is that in attaching to the frame, the positioning needs to be very precise in back, and solid in front. It needs to hang straight vertically without much movement in normal use. I went for the simplest idea.
But first, bending the cover into shape. I just laid it against the chain ring and carefully bent it, using my thumbs to make tiny adjustments where needed. You just look at where it begins to diverge from the curvature and make a little bend at that exact spot. I taped it in place to mark where I wanted to cut it in back.

After trimming the back ends and bending around the cog it's laid over the cog loosely. Notches need to be cut out for the seat stay and rack strut. It looks like a lot of clearance here but by the time this is done it's drawn in quite a bit so it's best to leave an inch of space around the cog.
This isn't the best place to join the two sides I think. Doing it over I'd have the break somewhere behind the rack strut, to make it easy to open up and to adjust. With some notches cut out
these don't have to be precise because they're going to be padded with rubber.
Next the front mount. It's hard to see here, but it's just a reflector clamp and the guard is clamped tight over the plastic swivel part of it. Large zip-tie through the guard and around the clamp bolt. It's easy to position the chain guard precisely by just moving the clamp around.

After getting that solid attach the back. I overlapped the ends, drilled and bolted (while having it off the bike
). Both ends are covered with a piece of inner tube to prevent scratches and rattling, and I put thick rubber in the notches between the struts and stay, and the guard. You'll also see a zip-tie around the stay. Unfortunately that's critical because tightening it there, against the rubber, sets the angle that it hangs at and positioning the bottom at the back:

At this point although it should be attached pretty well, it's still wobbly in front and may not be in the right position on bottom, towards the front. The simplest thing to do is brace it from the chain stay. I originally tried it from the drive-side stay, but moved to the non-drive side to make it more solid and easier to work with:
Making a clamp from a trimmed-off piece and eyeball it in place for the bends, the critical point is having vertical sides on the clamp part and enough rubber inside to conform, which keeps the clamp rock solid:
This part can be improved I'm sure, but doing it this way is very easy and solid, and doesn't look all that conspicuous.
That's all there is to it, simple and effective. I'm hoping this inspires someone to improve on the basic idea. For my part I'm pretty happy as is, but I'm mulling over adding a vinyl cover for a more full enclosure. Maybe someone will take up where I left off here.
It is a partial chain case, just a strip around the chain to protect my pants and to keep the worst of the elements from the drive train. It works pretty well for that:
The cover is an aluminum carpet seam strip. It is 1 1/4" wide which is just about perfect IMO, although I think +/- 1/4" would also work. I started with a 10 or 12 foot strip from Home Depot to make fenders with ($14), and had some left over so this was mostly zero cost. I also used a couple of nuts and bolts, a re-purposed reflector mount, some old inner tube rubber, and a few zip ties.
The only difficult challenge is that in attaching to the frame, the positioning needs to be very precise in back, and solid in front. It needs to hang straight vertically without much movement in normal use. I went for the simplest idea.
But first, bending the cover into shape. I just laid it against the chain ring and carefully bent it, using my thumbs to make tiny adjustments where needed. You just look at where it begins to diverge from the curvature and make a little bend at that exact spot. I taped it in place to mark where I wanted to cut it in back.
After trimming the back ends and bending around the cog it's laid over the cog loosely. Notches need to be cut out for the seat stay and rack strut. It looks like a lot of clearance here but by the time this is done it's drawn in quite a bit so it's best to leave an inch of space around the cog.
Next the front mount. It's hard to see here, but it's just a reflector clamp and the guard is clamped tight over the plastic swivel part of it. Large zip-tie through the guard and around the clamp bolt. It's easy to position the chain guard precisely by just moving the clamp around.
After getting that solid attach the back. I overlapped the ends, drilled and bolted (while having it off the bike
). Both ends are covered with a piece of inner tube to prevent scratches and rattling, and I put thick rubber in the notches between the struts and stay, and the guard. You'll also see a zip-tie around the stay. Unfortunately that's critical because tightening it there, against the rubber, sets the angle that it hangs at and positioning the bottom at the back: At this point although it should be attached pretty well, it's still wobbly in front and may not be in the right position on bottom, towards the front. The simplest thing to do is brace it from the chain stay. I originally tried it from the drive-side stay, but moved to the non-drive side to make it more solid and easier to work with:
That's all there is to it, simple and effective. I'm hoping this inspires someone to improve on the basic idea. For my part I'm pretty happy as is, but I'm mulling over adding a vinyl cover for a more full enclosure. Maybe someone will take up where I left off here.
#4
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 5,331
Likes: 12
From: Kent Wa.
Bikes: 2005 Gazelle Golfo, 1935 Raleigh Sport, 1970 Robin Hood sport, 1974 Schwinn Continental, 1984 Ross MTB/porteur, 2013 Flying Piegon path racer, 2014 Gazelle Toer Populair T8
Huge selection of hard and soft chaincases, covers, mounts, brackets, hardware, and even little mounted brushes.
The largest and most affordable Online Chain Guard Shop!
The largest and most affordable Online Chain Guard Shop!
#5
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 385
Likes: 8
From: Endicott, NY
Bikes: Electra Loft 7i, Fuji Crosstown 2.5, Gravity Liberty FB, Schwinn Voyageur
That's pretty nice. It probably wouldn't take much more to enclose it if you wanted to. Have you tried it out in the wild yet?
#6
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 297
Likes: 0
Great job. I'm still waiting for the day when someone can modify the derailleur bike concept so that it includes a full chain case. I have an IGH bike with a full chain case, and the chain doesn't need to be lubed more than once or twice per year. As much as I miss derailleur bikes, it's hard to go back now that I don't have to maintain my chain or crankset and I never have to roll up my pant leg.
#7
Thread Starter
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Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 15,278
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From: Alpharetta, GA
Bikes: Nashbar Road
I've been tempted to add vinyl or Coroplast sides but one thing stops me. I don't really want the extra surface area exposed to side winds, resulting in extra drag. A minor concern I admit, especially for that bike but still enough to stop me from taking the time for it ...
#8
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 15,278
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From: Alpharetta, GA
Bikes: Nashbar Road
Great job. I'm still waiting for the day when someone can modify the derailleur bike concept so that it includes a full chain case. I have an IGH bike with a full chain case, and the chain doesn't need to be lubed more than once or twice per year. As much as I miss derailleur bikes, it's hard to go back now that I don't have to maintain my chain or crankset and I never have to roll up my pant leg.
(they also need to be designed to a tighter tolerance. I tried a proof of concept on my derailleur road bike but it didn't turn out well)
Last edited by wphamilton; 12-27-15 at 04:37 PM.
#9
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 15,278
Likes: 342
From: Alpharetta, GA
Bikes: Nashbar Road
Huge selection of hard and soft chaincases, covers, mounts, brackets, hardware, and even little mounted brushes.
The largest and most affordable Online Chain Guard Shop!
The largest and most affordable Online Chain Guard Shop!
#10
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 297
Likes: 0
Those can be had, but it's ungainly due to the volume described by the various paths that the chain takes, and the gimmicky needed to avoid the front DR.
(they also need to be designed to a tighter tolerance. I tried a proof of concept on my derailleur road bike but it didn't turn out well)
(they also need to be designed to a tighter tolerance. I tried a proof of concept on my derailleur road bike but it didn't turn out well)
#11
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 5,331
Likes: 12
From: Kent Wa.
Bikes: 2005 Gazelle Golfo, 1935 Raleigh Sport, 1970 Robin Hood sport, 1974 Schwinn Continental, 1984 Ross MTB/porteur, 2013 Flying Piegon path racer, 2014 Gazelle Toer Populair T8
#12
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 5,331
Likes: 12
From: Kent Wa.
Bikes: 2005 Gazelle Golfo, 1935 Raleigh Sport, 1970 Robin Hood sport, 1974 Schwinn Continental, 1984 Ross MTB/porteur, 2013 Flying Piegon path racer, 2014 Gazelle Toer Populair T8
So, by "those can be had," you mean "those cannot be had." Big, big difference between a chain guard and a fully enclosed chain case. The derailleur bike needs to be revolutionized, or perhaps scrapped in favor of a brand new design. IGH bikes are great but they are heavy and don't operate as well on uphill stretches as derailleur bikes. Maybe one day there will be a bike that has the best of both worlds (great on hills and zero maintenance with no need to roll up pant leg).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9CJ8wPtZHF8
The difference in weight, and efficiency on hills for a standard IGH compared to a derailleur is actually fairly insignificant in actual practice so I don't really see the advantage of the Friiik, but.........
#13
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 5,331
Likes: 12
From: Kent Wa.
Bikes: 2005 Gazelle Golfo, 1935 Raleigh Sport, 1970 Robin Hood sport, 1974 Schwinn Continental, 1984 Ross MTB/porteur, 2013 Flying Piegon path racer, 2014 Gazelle Toer Populair T8
I've been tempted to add vinyl or Coroplast sides but one thing stops me. I don't really want the extra surface area exposed to side winds, resulting in extra drag. A minor concern I admit, especially for that bike but still enough to stop me from taking the time for it ...
#14
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 15,278
Likes: 342
From: Alpharetta, GA
Bikes: Nashbar Road
#15
aka Tom Reingold




Joined: Jan 2009
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From: New York, NY, and High Falls, NY, USA
Bikes: 1962 Rudge Sports, 1971 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Raleigh Pro Track, 1974 Raleigh International, 1975 Viscount Fixie, 1982 McLean, 1996 Lemond (Ti), 2002 Burley Zydeco tandem
The Gazelle Friiik has a full chaincase.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9CJ8wPtZHF8
The difference in weight, and efficiency on hills for a standard IGH compared to a derailleur is actually fairly insignificant in actual practice so I don't really see the advantage of the Friiik, but.........
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9CJ8wPtZHF8
The difference in weight, and efficiency on hills for a standard IGH compared to a derailleur is actually fairly insignificant in actual practice so I don't really see the advantage of the Friiik, but.........
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
#16
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Joined: Nov 2013
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The Gazelle Friiik has a full chaincase.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9CJ8wPtZHF8
The difference in weight, and efficiency on hills for a standard IGH compared to a derailleur is actually fairly insignificant in actual practice so I don't really see the advantage of the Friiik, but.........
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9CJ8wPtZHF8
The difference in weight, and efficiency on hills for a standard IGH compared to a derailleur is actually fairly insignificant in actual practice so I don't really see the advantage of the Friiik, but.........
The Gazelle Friik you link to is very interesting. It is indeed a derailleur bike with a full chain case. However, it only has one chain ring in the front, so the range of gears is limited. This matters, particularly for steep uphill stretches. Still, nice to see. However, the comments in the youtube video indicate that it was a short-lived bike and is no longer in production. SMH.
#17
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 15,278
Likes: 342
From: Alpharetta, GA
Bikes: Nashbar Road
So, by "those can be had," you mean "those cannot be had." Big, big difference between a chain guard and a fully enclosed chain case. The derailleur bike needs to be revolutionized, or perhaps scrapped in favor of a brand new design. IGH bikes are great but they are heavy and don't operate as well on uphill stretches as derailleur bikes. Maybe one day there will be a bike that has the best of both worlds (great on hills and zero maintenance with no need to roll up pant leg).
#18
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 15,278
Likes: 342
From: Alpharetta, GA
Bikes: Nashbar Road
The Gazelle Friiik has a full chaincase.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9CJ8wPtZHF8
The difference in weight, and efficiency on hills for a standard IGH compared to a derailleur is actually fairly insignificant in actual practice so I don't really see the advantage of the Friiik, but.........
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9CJ8wPtZHF8
The difference in weight, and efficiency on hills for a standard IGH compared to a derailleur is actually fairly insignificant in actual practice so I don't really see the advantage of the Friiik, but.........
#19
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 5,331
Likes: 12
From: Kent Wa.
Bikes: 2005 Gazelle Golfo, 1935 Raleigh Sport, 1970 Robin Hood sport, 1974 Schwinn Continental, 1984 Ross MTB/porteur, 2013 Flying Piegon path racer, 2014 Gazelle Toer Populair T8
From what I've experienced, when others fly past me on hills, its the motor, not the bike that's the real difference.
#20
Full Member
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 306
Likes: 2
From: Bruce Twp, MI
Bikes: Huffy Sienna Cruiser, Specialized Rockhopper
Pretty neat! What was your motive for a fully covered chain? I assumed it was to either keep winter salt off the chain or to keep your pants cleaner when you ride.
#21
Thread Starter
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Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 15,278
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From: Alpharetta, GA
Bikes: Nashbar Road
For a fully enclosed or partially enclosed case the only rational is protecting the chain and gears as far as I know. Thankfully we don't deal with road salt here, but hard rains can drive grit and mud onto the chain so it's still an attractive goal.
#23
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Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 878
Likes: 139
I've tried, Coroplast (To make a fully enclosed chain case.) and it didn't hold up. We get a lot of Snow/Salt and other things that mess-up a chain fast. Has anyone tried something else? Would a VO chain case (modified) work?
#24
Thread Starter
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Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 15,278
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From: Alpharetta, GA
Bikes: Nashbar Road
I had to take the Coroplast side off, as the chain was nicking an inside fastener. I'll have to strap it on outside of the cover strip instead - I'm thinking elastic straps, which would also make it easier to remove and mess with the chain as necessary. Doing that, might as well use vinyl, I think, since you could just stretch it tight.
#25
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Joined: May 2005
Posts: 6,301
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From: La La Land (We love it!)
Bikes: Gilmour road, Curtlo road; both steel (of course)
First thing we did with our bikes when we were kids was remove the fenders and chain guards.
I see no reason to go backwards...
I see no reason to go backwards...
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