How cold is too cold?
#26
Senior Member


Joined: Jul 2008
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From: 25 miles northwest of Boston
Bikes: Bottecchia Sprint, GT Timberline 29r, Marin Muirwoods 29er, Trek FX Alpha 7.0
#27
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,536
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From: central ohio
Bikes: 96 gary fisher 'utopia' : 99 Softride 'Norwester'(for sale), 1972 Raleigh Twenty. Surly 1x1 converted to 1x8, 96 Turner Burner
My personal low is -14f/-25c. I learned how to handle the cold from reading blogs from Alaskans and Canadians and all of the different websites out there. And some trial and error. I wish I'd done it sooner. Nothing like riding in the snow.
#29
Day trip lover
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 813
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From: capital city of iowa
Bikes: '16 Giant Escape 3 (fair weather ride), Giant Quasar (work in progress), 2002 saturn vue (crap weather ride)
I want to say when farts frost, but, the real answer is if I go to leave and my knee jerk reaction "screw this" then that's when it's too cold/wet/crappy out.
#30
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 148
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From: PNW
Bikes: Holding steady at N
It depends on the kind of ride.
My commute to work is about 2.5 miles, taking 20-25 minutes depending on traffic lights. It takes just as long to drive and find parking, and longer to take the bus. So for the sake of convenience, I'll definitely ride if the temperature is 40ºF, and will usually ride down to 30. It doesn't often get colder than that here. Combine cold with heavy rain and I'm more likely to drive.
I'm more of a fair-weather biker when it comes to "fun" rides, usually noping out if the expected high temperature is below 60ºF. I had too many hellish rides thanks to Raynaud's.
Of course, this year I'm thinking of doing an event in February so I better start getting on my bike despite the cold weather.
My commute to work is about 2.5 miles, taking 20-25 minutes depending on traffic lights. It takes just as long to drive and find parking, and longer to take the bus. So for the sake of convenience, I'll definitely ride if the temperature is 40ºF, and will usually ride down to 30. It doesn't often get colder than that here. Combine cold with heavy rain and I'm more likely to drive.
I'm more of a fair-weather biker when it comes to "fun" rides, usually noping out if the expected high temperature is below 60ºF. I had too many hellish rides thanks to Raynaud's.
Of course, this year I'm thinking of doing an event in February so I better start getting on my bike despite the cold weather.
#31
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 1,448
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From: Central PA (USA)
Bikes: 2014 Carbon Quest XS (Velomobile), 2014 Catrike Road (Trike), 2013 Easy Motion Max 700+ PCS (E-bike), 2011 Lynskey R340 (Road), 2011 Surly Moonlander (Fatty), 2010 Santa Cruise Tallboy (Full Suspension)
I really don't have a cutoff temp and ride any day I have to get to work. My coldest ride though was -6 F with a wind chill of -30 F. This picture is not from my coldest ride ever, but this was the worst conditions ever. It was white out conditions and the truck you see tried to pass me about a mile back until he started sliding when he saw an oncoming care and tried to get back in behind me.
This picture was taken by someone who knew a co worker at my wife's work. When they sent it to my wife's co worker the guy said "look at this poor SOB", the worker said "I think I know who that is" and sent it to my wife. I really didn't have any problems for what it looks like, I have studded tires and they work good! I hope this goes through as its my first attempt at posting a picture on the forum.
This picture was taken by someone who knew a co worker at my wife's work. When they sent it to my wife's co worker the guy said "look at this poor SOB", the worker said "I think I know who that is" and sent it to my wife. I really didn't have any problems for what it looks like, I have studded tires and they work good! I hope this goes through as its my first attempt at posting a picture on the forum.
#33
Full Member

Joined: May 2008
Posts: 342
Likes: 9
From: Delaware
Bikes: Many English 3 Speeds
I had a 30 min commute for many years. Initially, my limit was mid 20's F. Then I found large mittens and got a warmer coat for a motorcycle I had for a few years. Commuting at 8-10 degrees F (-12 C) was then fine; weather never got any colder.
In my area, I found raw temperature was more useful choosing clothes than "real feel" or wind chill.
One morning temperature was reasonable (about 40) but wind speed was 40-50 mph. I rode about a mile and found a bus into town rather than keep fighting the wind. The afternoon ride back was 60 degrees and sunny.
In my area, I found raw temperature was more useful choosing clothes than "real feel" or wind chill.
One morning temperature was reasonable (about 40) but wind speed was 40-50 mph. I rode about a mile and found a bus into town rather than keep fighting the wind. The afternoon ride back was 60 degrees and sunny.
#34
Senior Member
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 8,896
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From: Raleigh, NC
Bikes: Waterford RST-22, Bob Jackson World Tour, Ritchey Breakaway Cross, Soma Saga, De Bernardi SL, Specialized Sequoia
Our winters are pretty mild in NC, so the coldest temperatures I have ridden in were the mid-teens. Usually I have one or two commutes each winter when morning temperatures are that cold, and I have been reasonably comfortable with my current gear. My biggest concern about riding in cold temps is dealing with mechanical problems. I do not look forward to fixing a flat in temps below freezing, and it's often dark outside when temps are that cold around here.
I am very comfortable riding in temps in the 20s and 30s, and actually prefer riding at those times to the hot, muggy weather we get here through most of the summer. It is much easier to dress for the cold than extreme heat and humidity. You can always add more layers of clothes but you can only take off so much, and high humidity makes you soaking wet within minutes of riding.
We get very little snow, sleet and ice in NC, and I don't ride in those conditions. I tried riding one day when we had about 6" of snow-sleet and only made it about 100 yards before I fell over. That was enough to convince me not to ride anymore. Black ice is especially treacherous, and we don't get enough snow and ice to justify putting studded tires on one of my bikes.
I am very comfortable riding in temps in the 20s and 30s, and actually prefer riding at those times to the hot, muggy weather we get here through most of the summer. It is much easier to dress for the cold than extreme heat and humidity. You can always add more layers of clothes but you can only take off so much, and high humidity makes you soaking wet within minutes of riding.
We get very little snow, sleet and ice in NC, and I don't ride in those conditions. I tried riding one day when we had about 6" of snow-sleet and only made it about 100 yards before I fell over. That was enough to convince me not to ride anymore. Black ice is especially treacherous, and we don't get enough snow and ice to justify putting studded tires on one of my bikes.
#35
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 2,647
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From: Sudbury, ON, CA
Bikes: 2012 Kona Sutra, 2002 Look AL 384, 2018 Moose Fat bike
I've ridden in at -29C with a windchill of -42C but that is unusual (I think I did it just to give Mother Nature the finger for thinking that she had me and my bike beat). Dress for it and you'll be fine.
My son got a new snowboarding helmet, I think I'll repurpose the old one for cold winter bike rides this year: it'll provide protection and warmth (insulation) at the same time.
My son got a new snowboarding helmet, I think I'll repurpose the old one for cold winter bike rides this year: it'll provide protection and warmth (insulation) at the same time.
Last edited by jrickards; 12-30-15 at 09:04 AM.
#36
Senior Member



Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 2,304
Likes: 2,516
From: Orange County, California
Bikes: Yes
I'm in the Southern California/Los Angeles metro area. I haven't found a lower temp limit yet. The temps can get down a little below freezing here in December/January (this morning its about 32F/0C), but that can be mitigated with a few extra layers of clothing. It DOES freak out my co-workers when I come rolling up to the building on a bicycle in that type of weather.
FWIW: I hate riding in the rain, just won't do it.
FWIW: I hate riding in the rain, just won't do it.
#37
Senior Member


Joined: Aug 2014
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From: Bronx, NYC
Bikes: '19 Fuji Gran Fondo 1.5, '72 Peugeot PX10, '71ish Gitane Super Corsa, '78 Fuji Newest, '89 Fuji Ace, '94 Cannondale R600, early '70s LeJeune Pro project
The cold hasn't prevented me from riding yet but the ice and snow have. I layer on clothing depending on the forecast and adjust as needed for the ride home. Keeping my feet warm is a challenge though once the temps are below 0... Any recommendations for really warm socks or winter cycling shoes for SPD pedals?
#38
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 2,647
Likes: 6
From: Sudbury, ON, CA
Bikes: 2012 Kona Sutra, 2002 Look AL 384, 2018 Moose Fat bike
The cold hasn't prevented me from riding yet but the ice and snow have. I layer on clothing depending on the forecast and adjust as needed for the ride home. Keeping my feet warm is a challenge though once the temps are below 0... Any recommendations for really warm socks or winter cycling shoes for SPD pedals?
#39
Randomhead
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 25,930
Likes: 4,825
From: Happy Valley, Pennsylvania
I commuted one winter when the temperature didn't get above zero F for an entire month. I only really had trouble on the 2 days it was -20F. There is a cutoff in there that makes frostbite a lot easier to occur. Now that I've moved to a little warmer area, somewhere around 5-10F is probably my limit. I keep thinking about putting bar mitts on my commuter, but I haven't done it yet. I have trouble with my hands getting too cold. There is one spot on my commute that is really exposed to the wind, and I haven't successfully found gloves that will keep my hands warm.
#40
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Joined: May 2008
Posts: 10,106
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From: Fredericksburg, Va
Bikes: ? Proteous, '65 Frejus TDF, '73 Bottecchia Giro d'Italia, '83 Colnago Superissimo, '84 Trek 610, '84 Trek 760, '88 Pinarello Veneto, '88 De Rosa Pro, '89 Pinarello Montello, 'Litespeed Catalyst'94 Burley Duet, 97 Specialized RockHopper, 2010 Langster
I am a wimp and don't ride in weather colder than 35F. It is limited by clothing. I am interested in getting out in worse weather. In my youth, I rode a motorcycle off road in the snow. For some reason that really sticks in my mind of how tough it could be!
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#41
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Joined: May 2005
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From: La La Land (We love it!)
Bikes: Gilmour road, Curtlo road; both steel (of course)
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#42
Senior Member


Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 39,897
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
When I was younger, there was no low temp limit (or none I ran into), and my personal record is -8°F. These days I'm not as tough, or just value my personal comfort more, so I have limits. I won't go out into the rain if it's below 40, though I'm willing to go lower for short runs, and will race home from work if I have to. In dry or snowy weather, I try to set a limit of 25°, but will go lower depending on my mood. Below 20° takes all the joy out of riding, so that's only for short necessary runs when I don't have a better alternative.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#43
#44
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 494
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From: Sault Ste. Marie, ON, Canada
Bikes: various strays, mongrels, and old junk.
My theoretical lower limit is -30 Celcius (about -22 F) but I think that -25 is the coldest I have experience of - but I over dressed for that ride and had to open up some venting at the top of my 200' of climb in my daily commute.
I don't wear anything that is cycling specific though. I use platform pedals so I can daily choose differing combinations of footwear, and I have a variety of hand options - and I usually take along a second option when I an going to be out for the day in case the need to put something dry on my hands arrises - ditto for head gear.
For footwear one of my best combination is casual leather (unvented) hiking/running shoes with a felt insole with reflective layer - over which I wear a pair of ordinary overshoes (which have another layer of felt in them).
Wool gloves inside of an unlined leather mitten gives good hand protection and reasonable dexterity- though I also have a couple of mitts made for skiing that I also use. Big advantage of the wool glove/leather mitt combination is that it costs very little in space and weight to carry along an extra pair or two of the wool gloves - and you have a two stage system that allows you to deal with locks etc. without touching metal with bare skin.
For my head - I use a thin layer that covers the ears - either a fleece beanie or an army surplus winter combat cap if I want the brim. Over that I wear a MTB helmet with the brim removed - over which I have a nice stretchy fleece hat that fits the helmet snugly, and a high viz rain cover as a wind break. I use wrap-around sunglasses over my perscription glasses to reduce wind over my eyes - yellow lenses for night. I also grow a full beard for winter - though this is not an option for all.
For my legs - wool or tech layer - then corduroy trousers (for the loft - traps more warm air) and a wind breaking layer. All loose, but not floppy.
For torso and arms - thin wool, wool, and maybe more wool - or maybe a tech or fleece layer (this all gets shifted day to day according to temperature, wind, and how long I might be out. For extreme days a down vest may be added. Then a breathable wind breaking layer over top - the warmer of my two options (made for snowboarding) at this point has pit vents.
Complicated? Yes, I guess so - but versatile and it works for me.
I find that keeping hands, head, and feet warm is key to enjoying the ride.
I have multiple options also for the secondary reason that I sometimes have gear hanging to dry while I need to change clothes and head out again (split shifts, eh?)
I don't wear anything that is cycling specific though. I use platform pedals so I can daily choose differing combinations of footwear, and I have a variety of hand options - and I usually take along a second option when I an going to be out for the day in case the need to put something dry on my hands arrises - ditto for head gear.
For footwear one of my best combination is casual leather (unvented) hiking/running shoes with a felt insole with reflective layer - over which I wear a pair of ordinary overshoes (which have another layer of felt in them).
Wool gloves inside of an unlined leather mitten gives good hand protection and reasonable dexterity- though I also have a couple of mitts made for skiing that I also use. Big advantage of the wool glove/leather mitt combination is that it costs very little in space and weight to carry along an extra pair or two of the wool gloves - and you have a two stage system that allows you to deal with locks etc. without touching metal with bare skin.
For my head - I use a thin layer that covers the ears - either a fleece beanie or an army surplus winter combat cap if I want the brim. Over that I wear a MTB helmet with the brim removed - over which I have a nice stretchy fleece hat that fits the helmet snugly, and a high viz rain cover as a wind break. I use wrap-around sunglasses over my perscription glasses to reduce wind over my eyes - yellow lenses for night. I also grow a full beard for winter - though this is not an option for all.
For my legs - wool or tech layer - then corduroy trousers (for the loft - traps more warm air) and a wind breaking layer. All loose, but not floppy.
For torso and arms - thin wool, wool, and maybe more wool - or maybe a tech or fleece layer (this all gets shifted day to day according to temperature, wind, and how long I might be out. For extreme days a down vest may be added. Then a breathable wind breaking layer over top - the warmer of my two options (made for snowboarding) at this point has pit vents.
Complicated? Yes, I guess so - but versatile and it works for me.
I find that keeping hands, head, and feet warm is key to enjoying the ride.
I have multiple options also for the secondary reason that I sometimes have gear hanging to dry while I need to change clothes and head out again (split shifts, eh?)
Last edited by auldgeunquers; 12-30-15 at 12:30 PM. Reason: spelling
#45
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Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 13,748
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From: Michigan
Bikes: Windsor Fens, Giant Seek 0 (2014, Alfine 8 + discs)
Depends on your equipment, and also on your body and how acclimated to cold you are.
I've ridden down to -25*F and enjoyed it.
Down to the teens I can just slap on what seems like an appropriate layer set and just go. Not really a problem.
When it starts getting down to 0 and below, it starts getting actually dangerous if you don't know what you're doing; you can wind up with frostbite and frozen digits.
My current max cold gear is wool base, then one or two layers of long sleeve poly Ts or poly sweatshirts in extreme cases, poly running tights with insulated underwear underneath, thermasilk glove liners underneath some 3-finger gloves (pinky and adjacent finger are joined), smartwool socks under Lake MX303 winter boots, a J&G cyclewear jacket+pants vented rain set combo on top, a motorcyclist's neoprene face mask+balaclava and goggles that seal down to the face, and a fleece scarf draped over the neck and crossed in front for a little extra insulation against wind blast.
You do have to be very careful to not allow any gaps on the face if you're riding below zero F. On the fingers and toes, the important thing is to block the wind.
I've ridden down to -25*F and enjoyed it.
Down to the teens I can just slap on what seems like an appropriate layer set and just go. Not really a problem.
When it starts getting down to 0 and below, it starts getting actually dangerous if you don't know what you're doing; you can wind up with frostbite and frozen digits.
My current max cold gear is wool base, then one or two layers of long sleeve poly Ts or poly sweatshirts in extreme cases, poly running tights with insulated underwear underneath, thermasilk glove liners underneath some 3-finger gloves (pinky and adjacent finger are joined), smartwool socks under Lake MX303 winter boots, a J&G cyclewear jacket+pants vented rain set combo on top, a motorcyclist's neoprene face mask+balaclava and goggles that seal down to the face, and a fleece scarf draped over the neck and crossed in front for a little extra insulation against wind blast.
You do have to be very careful to not allow any gaps on the face if you're riding below zero F. On the fingers and toes, the important thing is to block the wind.
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#46
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Joined: May 2005
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From: La La Land (We love it!)
Bikes: Gilmour road, Curtlo road; both steel (of course)
#49
Senior Member
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 6,301
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From: La La Land (We love it!)
Bikes: Gilmour road, Curtlo road; both steel (of course)
#50
DLifer
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 115
Likes: 0
From: Denver Colorado
Bikes: Trek 2.1, Surly LHT, GT Sensor
To me it's all about how FAR the ride is. I'll go a few miles in below zero temps. My actual commute is about 20 miles and as the ride goes on it gets harder and harder to keep everything comfortable. My limit right now is 17F as in that is the coldest weather I've done the 20 miles in. This year I have some better gear and am going to try and push that down to 10F.







