Winter bike with fenders: 20lbs + an extra 1lb for light and battery.
Summer bike: 18lbs
Backpack varies maybe from 5 to 15 lbs but I've never weighed it.

I have a custom Indy Fab Steel Club Racer, fenders, lights, rear rack, tail bag and two panniers puts it at about 50 lbs. But since I am about 297 lbs and 6'4" I prefer to take the weight off of my body and not the bike!

Still working on the body weight LoL!

Fuji Altamira 1.1 2016 (their website reports 20.44lbs stock)

Upgrades RS81 wheels, 105 pedals, Oval 900 carbon wrap seatpost, Specialized Romin saddle, lights, SRAM Garmin mount, Garmin sensors, two water bottle holders, 20.0lbs even as per Park Tools scale (includes everything).

It fits right and is the fastest rig (judging by all my PRs on Strava) that I've owned, despite its weight.

Well, I have a Surly LHT which I add two saddle bags to. I use pyrex containers for lunch and normally have 1.5L. When I pick my bike up, I would bet it is some 30-40lbs depending on how much food I pack.

I figure it is good training for when I pull out the <20lb roadie

Well this is a timely thread for me as I'm toying with the idea of replacing my commuter due to its weight.

I ride a Carerra Virtuoso, fitted with sks chromoplast mud guards and a rear rack. 23mm tyres. I carry a saddle bag with basic tools and a lock in it.
The bike is sold as a racer - it's not built heavy for strength or stability.

Total weight: 48.5lbs.

It started out as 35 lbs assembled from the box. Replaced bars, suspension fork, wheelset tires, and crank and it got down to 26. I carry a heavy chain lock now so weight is around 31 lbs.

17-18 lbs or so. I'm not sure. But, I travel as light as possible. I store most of my stuff at work, like clothes and shoes. I also have a drawer full of canned sardines and salmon, some bread, fruit, a bunch of oatmeal and some nuts. I bring a lot of that stuff in on days that I drive.

My bike is bare. No panniers, rack or aerobars, for example. It's just the basic road bike, with a small saddle bag and a canvas frame bag which I use to carry some of the basics like more food or fresh clothes (I bring in and take home one or two items per ride) when I am not driving that week.

My primary commuter is a CAAD10 and comes in at 19 lbs. I commute with a backpack so no rack or panniers. We rarely get rain in California so no need for fenders either.

On the one day a year we get rain, I just ride my heavier CX bike and enjoy a little spray and mud. That makes it fun when I clomp through the lobby of my building on my way to my office. Security guards give me a good look as I walk by.

My Bianchi Bergamo is 41lbs with panniers, tools and kit I need for work. Get to use those big cogs on the hills.

Surly LHT with dynohub, rack, and lights: right at 30 pounds. Loaded for work, it's around 50.

I was wrong about the weight of my Bianchi Volpe. Maybe it really was 34 pounds, but right now, it is down to 30 pounds with everything not bolted on removed. I did put on a lighter saddle, but that doesn't account for a four-pound difference.

I've never weighed it, but I know for certain that the Bicycle Gods made it heavy in order to try to force me to lose some of my own pounds.

15.2 Stone

That's quite a lot. I assume that it includes yourself.



My commuter weighs 33 pounds bare. With bags and normal commuting load it's probably closer to 40. Friday's I take my dirty laundry home so add another 5 pounds.

Yeah, the bike can't ride itself, unless it's a pedelec/e-bike, right?

That's why shaving a few lbs off of a commuter doesn't really matter. Different bars or rolling resistance would matter much more, I would guess.

19.98 pounds with pedals (You aren't truly a weight weenie until you consider weighing your bike without pedals.)

Nice use of retroshift 1x, cool that the saved weight vs brifters (and skipping FD/cable/etc) allowed you to squeak under that magical threshold of 20lb!

Exactly. A heavier load means leisurely acceleration and slow going up hills. However maintaining speed on the flats is no problem and you actually gain additional momentum going down hill.

And nobody can dispute that shaving a few pounds from the engine is easier than from the bike.

My road bikes range from a low of 17.2 to a high of 25.8 and everywhere inbetween; my commuter weighs in at 21.8 pounds.

I added a two pound rack tonight, so now it's just under the slightly less magical 22 pound mark. On the other hand, it's a good bit more functional as a commuter. (See also: weight without pedals)

Two pounds for a rack? My alu rack always seems surprisingly light to me whenever I take it off. Is yours made of lead?

I think you will find that there are plenty of people would find it easier, cheaper, and more permanent to cut a few pounds off the bike than themselves. Plus the engine on a bike (you) is "sprung" weight while everything on the bike itself, including the things in your panniers are "unsprung". That's not true if your bike has a suspension system of some type. The right kind of suspension can actually improve performance. Anyway adding unsprung weight decreases performance more than adding sprung weight.

Does it matter that much for most people's commute times? Probably not but it might matter a lot in how the bike feels. A lighter bike is also more convenient if you ever need to lift or carry it for any reason.

I've been taking a new shortcut to work recently where I have to shoulder my bike (yay for cx cable routing!) and hoof it up an embankment, and I can REALLY tell the difference of whether I've chucked a couple extra pounds of food items into my kittier (like today about +4-5lb for two jars of pickles and two cans of soup). The difference for shouldering is way more significant than, say the difference for climbing.

Aluminum racks are the lightest but they also won't carry as much load as a cromoly rack which weighs more like the Tubus that I have. The Cromoly ones are rated at 88 pounds and weigh about a pound and a quarter. The other advantage to heavier and stronger racks is that they do stiffen up the rear of the bike so if you ever had sway on a loaded touring bike with aluminum racks switching over to Cromoly will probably eliminate it and at the very least reduce it by 75%, so a good rack will improve a loaded bike's handling. There is also stainless steel that weighs a bit more than cromoly which is pointless since it has the same 88 pound load carrying capability unless your concerned about rust, but it may be stiffer than cromoly. Aluminum racks are known to crack at the welds while steel will last a lifetime, but aluminum will be fine if you travel light and well below it's supposedly rated maximum load carrying capability. It's one thing for a rack to carry weight without jostling around but once you start moving the load will bounce up and down and on the downward movement whatever load weight you have is suddenly greater, so you could be traveling with 50 pounds but the downward force could exceed 60 pounds which the rack is not design to take for a prolong period of time.

Very interesting, good info. Someday if I ever need to upgrade from my aluminum rack, I plan to commission a custom rack from sixty-fiver (look at this beauty)