Mountain(?) bike for commuting
#1
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Mountain(?) bike for commuting
Hello everyone. I'm looking into buying a bike.
Its main purpose will be commuting through the city. Considering the condition of the roads here, it should be able to handle some uneven terrain, but nothing more than a slightly bumpy road.
I am a beginner and don't want to spend a fortune on the bike. There is also a slight chance of it getting stolen - all the more reason to not spend too much money.
I was hoping someone here could help me pick a bike, or at least point me in the right direction. I'm thinking a mountain bike with little or no suspension and road tires.
Any and all advice is much appreciated.
Its main purpose will be commuting through the city. Considering the condition of the roads here, it should be able to handle some uneven terrain, but nothing more than a slightly bumpy road.
I am a beginner and don't want to spend a fortune on the bike. There is also a slight chance of it getting stolen - all the more reason to not spend too much money.
I was hoping someone here could help me pick a bike, or at least point me in the right direction. I'm thinking a mountain bike with little or no suspension and road tires.
Any and all advice is much appreciated.
#2
Senior Member

Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 6,643
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From: Colorado Springs, CO
Bikes: 2015 Charge Plug, 2007 Dahon Boardwalk, 1997 Specialized Rockhopper, 1984 Nishiki International, 2006 Felt F65, 1989 Dahon Getaway V
Welcome! This is a common question here. I just did a quick search on bikeforums, and it is hard to sift through all the results. The short answer is that a used, non-suspension mountain bike makes an excellent short to mid distance urban commuter, especially with smooth, street tires. But it is worth your while to try searching and reading through this forum for tips that fit your commuting needs. Although I have been bike commuting in one way or another my whole life, and in earnest sonce the early 1990s, when I found bikeforums, things got real good, real fast bike-commuting wise.
#3
Hello everyone. I'm looking into buying a bike.
Its main purpose will be commuting through the city. Considering the condition of the roads here, it should be able to handle some uneven terrain, but nothing more than a slightly bumpy road.
I am a beginner and don't want to spend a fortune on the bike. There is also a slight chance of it getting stolen - all the more reason to not spend too much money.
I was hoping someone here could help me pick a bike, or at least point me in the right direction. I'm thinking a mountain bike with little or no suspension and road tires.
Any and all advice is much appreciated.
Its main purpose will be commuting through the city. Considering the condition of the roads here, it should be able to handle some uneven terrain, but nothing more than a slightly bumpy road.
I am a beginner and don't want to spend a fortune on the bike. There is also a slight chance of it getting stolen - all the more reason to not spend too much money.
I was hoping someone here could help me pick a bike, or at least point me in the right direction. I'm thinking a mountain bike with little or no suspension and road tires.
Any and all advice is much appreciated.
In the Trek line-up, the 900 series are the top bikes and the 800 series are more entry level. Any of them would work well.
In the Specialized line-up, the Stumpjumpers art at the top, followed by Rockhoppers and finally the Hard Rocks. I think the Rockhoppers are the sweet spot.
If you aren't able to do the work, it will add substantially to the cost and a new, entry level bike shop bike might be more appropriate. You would probably pay $400-500 for a new bike and maybe $300-400 for an older bike than a bike shop overhauls for you.
You might get lucky and find a good, older MTB that is in good working condition for a good price but that hasn't been my experience. Most have needed at least $50-100 worth of work from an LBS and sometimes much more (ie, complete overahaul with new cables, housing, brake pads, tubes, bearings, etc..).
#4
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You are on the right track in your thinking. If you have the skill and experience to work on bikes yourself, you can pick up a good 1990's MTB on Craigslist pretty cheap and if you do the overhaul yourself and buy new street tires, you can have a great bike for a very reasonable price. The major brands you'll see are Trek & Specialized but from that era, Schwinn, Giant, Raleigh, and a few others are out there as well. Just use this board as a resource.
In the Trek line-up, the 900 series are the top bikes and the 800 series are more entry level. Any of them would work well.
In the Specialized line-up, the Stumpjumpers art at the top, followed by Rockhoppers and finally the Hard Rocks. I think the Rockhoppers are the sweet spot.
If you aren't able to do the work, it will add substantially to the cost and a new, entry level bike shop bike might be more appropriate. You would probably pay $400-500 for a new bike and maybe $300-400 for an older bike than a bike shop overhauls for you.
You might get lucky and find a good, older MTB that is in good working condition for a good price but that hasn't been my experience. Most have needed at least $50-100 worth of work from an LBS and sometimes much more (ie, complete overahaul with new cables, housing, brake pads, tubes, bearings, etc..).
In the Trek line-up, the 900 series are the top bikes and the 800 series are more entry level. Any of them would work well.
In the Specialized line-up, the Stumpjumpers art at the top, followed by Rockhoppers and finally the Hard Rocks. I think the Rockhoppers are the sweet spot.
If you aren't able to do the work, it will add substantially to the cost and a new, entry level bike shop bike might be more appropriate. You would probably pay $400-500 for a new bike and maybe $300-400 for an older bike than a bike shop overhauls for you.
You might get lucky and find a good, older MTB that is in good working condition for a good price but that hasn't been my experience. Most have needed at least $50-100 worth of work from an LBS and sometimes much more (ie, complete overahaul with new cables, housing, brake pads, tubes, bearings, etc..).
What I'd like to have your opinion on is a new mountain bike priced around 400-500 USD. For example, which wheel size do I want? Which brands do you recommend (if they even matter at this price)?
Thanks in advance.
#6
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 6,319
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From: Wisconsin
Bikes: 2012 Salsa Casseroll, 2009 Kona Blast
Well, thanks for the advice. I am definitely looking for a new bike, as I am unable to do the work myself.
What I'd like to have your opinion on is a new mountain bike priced around 400-500 USD. For example, which wheel size do I want? Which brands do you recommend (if they even matter at this price)?
Thanks in advance.
What I'd like to have your opinion on is a new mountain bike priced around 400-500 USD. For example, which wheel size do I want? Which brands do you recommend (if they even matter at this price)?
Thanks in advance.
#7
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You don't get much for $400 to $500. What you will find in mountain bikes at that price range are heavy, slow, and not the greatest quality. If that is your budget, go with a new hybrid like the ubiquitous Trek FX 7.x, Jamis Coda Sport, Kona Dew, Giant Escape, or Specialized Sirrus Sport. Any of those hybrids would make a much better commuter than any $500 new mountain bike.
EDIT: Googled it, looks like hybrid bikes might be more appropriate for me. I'll look into it, thanks.
Last edited by Programen; 04-03-16 at 09:37 AM.
#8
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Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Wisconsin
Bikes: 2012 Salsa Casseroll, 2009 Kona Blast
Modern mountain bikes are purpose built for technical trail riding. Good suspension forks cost a fair bit of money, as does a drivetrain built for the demands of singletrack. All that costs money. A decent mountain bike costs anywhere from $700 or $800 for entry level and goes up from there.
$400 or $500 is neither here nor there for mountain bikes. You get inferior everything at that price point. However, you can get a quite serviceable hybrid at that price point. Not something you would ride technical trails on, but more than adequate for a 10 mile commute.
#9
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Joined: May 2013
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From: Folsom CA
Bikes: Stormchaser, Paramount, Tilt, Samba tandem
I'm starting to think the down-thumb for modern mountain bikes around here is overstated. The versions at $1000 and below are all still pretty versatile and not "focused" in any serious way. They still have rack mounts and fender eyes. They often have fork lockouts or you can max out the preload. It's easy enough to have a set of both, say, 700c wheels with slicks and 27.5 with knobs. Yes they are going to be heavier, but if you are only going to own one bike, it's a good option.
The hybrids however will certainly be better if you aren't ever doing a wheelie or going down a trail. A dirt road is still a road.
The hybrids however will certainly be better if you aren't ever doing a wheelie or going down a trail. A dirt road is still a road.
__________________
Genesis 49:16-17
"Well, well!" said Holmes, impatiently. "A good cyclist does not need a high road. The moor is intersected with paths and the moon is at the full."
Genesis 49:16-17
"Well, well!" said Holmes, impatiently. "A good cyclist does not need a high road. The moor is intersected with paths and the moon is at the full."
Last edited by Darth Lefty; 04-03-16 at 10:08 AM.
#10
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 6,319
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From: Wisconsin
Bikes: 2012 Salsa Casseroll, 2009 Kona Blast
I'm starting to think the down-thumb for modern mountain bikes around here is overstated. The versions at $1000 and below are all still pretty versatile and not "focused" in any serious way. They still have rack mounts and fender eyes. They often have fork lockouts or you can max out the preload. It's easy enough to have a set of both, say, 700c wheels with slicks and 27.5 with knobs. Yes they are going to be heavier, but if you are only going to own one bike, it's a good option.
The hybrids however will certainly be better if you aren't ever doing a wheelie or going down a trail. A dirt road is still a road.
The hybrids however will certainly be better if you aren't ever doing a wheelie or going down a trail. A dirt road is still a road.
#11
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Trek bike's 820 is their basic mountain bike at just under $400 , they're OK.. steel frame , LBS sells many.
3500 has an aluminum frame, just over the $400 mark.
Mountain bikes | Bikes | Trek Bikes
3500 has an aluminum frame, just over the $400 mark.
Mountain bikes | Bikes | Trek Bikes
#12
I'm starting to think the down-thumb for modern mountain bikes around here is overstated. The versions at $1000 and below are all still pretty versatile and not "focused" in any serious way. They still have rack mounts and fender eyes. They often have fork lockouts or you can max out the preload. It's easy enough to have a set of both, say, 700c wheels with slicks and 27.5 with knobs. Yes they are going to be heavier, but if you are only going to own one bike, it's a good option.
The hybrids however will certainly be better if you aren't ever doing a wheelie or going down a trail. A dirt road is still a road.
The hybrids however will certainly be better if you aren't ever doing a wheelie or going down a trail. A dirt road is still a road.
If you already had a MTB then it would be a different story.
#13
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Joined: May 2013
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From: Folsom CA
Bikes: Stormchaser, Paramount, Tilt, Samba tandem
I've been riding an Acera-level front-suspension Hardrock through several incarnations for more than a decade now, including a stint as a commuter, and it's served well. I didn't find the cheapo no-damping suspension fork to be a big deal once I maxed out the preload. I wore out the inner chain ring and broke a few spokes on the rear a while back, but any other money spent has been either for preference or self-inflicted damage.
I agree that today's cheapest level MTB's are a bit too junky. I'd definitely spend to get the one with a freehub and damping. But today, at least, that's $550, not $1000.
https://www.specialized.com/us/en/bi...rt-650b/106497
...and that's a Specialized, you might be able to do better with a discount brand.
I agree that today's cheapest level MTB's are a bit too junky. I'd definitely spend to get the one with a freehub and damping. But today, at least, that's $550, not $1000.
https://www.specialized.com/us/en/bi...rt-650b/106497
...and that's a Specialized, you might be able to do better with a discount brand.
__________________
Genesis 49:16-17
"Well, well!" said Holmes, impatiently. "A good cyclist does not need a high road. The moor is intersected with paths and the moon is at the full."
Genesis 49:16-17
"Well, well!" said Holmes, impatiently. "A good cyclist does not need a high road. The moor is intersected with paths and the moon is at the full."
#14
You don't get much for $400 to $500. What you will find in mountain bikes at that price range are heavy, slow, and not the greatest quality. If that is your budget, go with a new hybrid like the ubiquitous Trek FX 7.x, Jamis Coda Sport, Kona Dew, Giant Escape, or Specialized Sirrus Sport. Any of those hybrids would make a much better commuter than any $500 new mountain bike.
I would recommend taking your time, doing research and riding as many bikes as possible. If you want to haul a lot of stuff, make sure the bike has braze-ons for racks and then figure the cost of purchasing/installing said racks.
#15
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 6,319
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From: Wisconsin
Bikes: 2012 Salsa Casseroll, 2009 Kona Blast
I've been riding an Acera-level front-suspension Hardrock through several incarnations for more than a decade now, including a stint as a commuter, and it's served well. I didn't find the cheapo no-damping suspension fork to be a big deal once I maxed out the preload. I wore out the inner chain ring and broke a few spokes on the rear a while back, but any other money spent has been either for preference or self-inflicted damage.
I agree that today's cheapest level MTB's are a bit too junky. I'd definitely spend to get the one with a freehub and damping. But today, at least, that's $550, not $1000.
https://www.specialized.com/us/en/bi...rt-650b/106497
...and that's a Specialized, you might be able to do better with a discount brand.
I agree that today's cheapest level MTB's are a bit too junky. I'd definitely spend to get the one with a freehub and damping. But today, at least, that's $550, not $1000.
https://www.specialized.com/us/en/bi...rt-650b/106497
...and that's a Specialized, you might be able to do better with a discount brand.
Last edited by MRT2; 04-03-16 at 03:54 PM.
#16
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Joined: Jan 2009
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From: Colorado Springs, CO
Bikes: 2015 Charge Plug, 2007 Dahon Boardwalk, 1997 Specialized Rockhopper, 1984 Nishiki International, 2006 Felt F65, 1989 Dahon Getaway V
On second thought, MRT2 is right, a hybrid may be a better choice as it would most likely ride better and faster. And if you found one that could accomodate 700x32s you'd be set. I commute on 700x32s on my semi-tourer, and my old roadie. 26x 1.75 on my old MTB-commuter.
#17
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Joined: Dec 2005
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From: Chicagoland
Bikes: Specialized Hardrock
One of the problems you might find looking for a used 90's MTB on Craigslist is that a lot of us that use those bikes as commuters don't want to part with them because they are so good. I wouldn't want to sell mine now, and most of us know that n+1 is the correct amount of bikes to own.






