The most inexpensive and elegant solution is just to look where you're riding, and briefly lift your ass off the saddle when you're approaching an unavoidable bump. Don't just ride like a sack of potatoes -- it's not good for you or the bike.

I agree with gsa103. The Thudbusters are better IMO because the parallelogram design means the the seat to axle distance remains essentially consistent. Unlike a full rear, or front suspension, there is no bouncing when you're riding out of the saddle. If you are bouncing while you're IN the saddle, you need to work on your pedal stroke.

+1. Be an active participant in your ride; learn which bumps you can avoid and which you need to anticipate. This is easier if your weight is relatively evenly distributed between front and rear wheels.

That said, fatter tires are more comfortable, especially nice ones.

I would not mess with a suspension seat post. I have one, I think it's a thudbuster, on one bike... a bike I don't like riding. I'm not sure that's the seat post's fault, though.

According to the copy on the web page, the inventor came up with it riding around Uganda, so my guess is that he started with valve springs. At least they're the same scale. Nothing this seat post does will ever match what a valve spring has to do in its life.

I tried a few suspension seat posts and just didn't like them.

Went with the Brooks Flyer (see avatar) and couldn't be happier.

My point is there are several options and no single one is right for everyone, so be prepared to experiment until you find what works best for you...

Yeah, but they are so friggin' ugly IMO...

Good points!

The important part is you like your solution. My point is that the Body Float is different, and a lot of folks are providing opinions without having tried any of these at all, seats or posts.

And you have > 1,700 posts..? ;)

My backside doesn't think so. Although, speaking of ugly . . no, I better not post a picture of my backside.

I guess we'd both be talking from theory. I would be surprised if that was the case - rear suspension on a bike is definitely a huge sucking of power. But to be fair I don't have personal experience with one.

As other posters mentioned the best thing to do is ride in a better position, not like a sack of potatoes.

If you want to take the edge off small bumps (which is what the OP asked about), best thing is either fatter tires, or a better bike frame. Fatter tires simply ride over the small bumps, the tire deforms around the bump and you never feel it. Better frames can help a lot to - it's almost unbelievable how much more comfortable by Specialized Sequoia is, a cheaper aluminum frame with a carbon front fork - compared to my previous full aluminum frame.

Do you exceed the stated 260lb weight limit of the Body Float system and if so, by how much?

Also how much does the Body Float system weigh in total?

I am about 180, so no issues with the weight limit. Average seatposts are usually 200-300 grams and these are 350-400 grams. So, there is a weight penalty, but not much of one. I rode my fully rigid MTB on very rough trails today and yet again this thing amazed me. Being that this bike is a SS I am out of the saddle a LOT, but still in the saddle at times in which there are big bumps, just no way to avoid it, and this saves my ass and back. Also, it makes it much more possible to keep the power hard into the pedaling in place of getting bounced and losing momentum.

By the way, I looked at these for a LONG time before going for it. Now, I like it so much I would pay even more for it if needed.

Here is the link to the trail that picture was taken on.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nDavn3EiDQo

I'm about to pull the trigger on the Giant ToughRoad SLR 2 and unfortunately Giant has a proprietary seatpost system that I believe means regular round seatposts can't fit in, but on my n+1 bike which should happen next year, I am very likely going to get a Surly Disc Trucker and look to turn it into the ultimate comfort bike, so I will give that Body Float a go, overwhelmingly on the basis of your strong recommendation on it.

Also I hope by next year to be under the 260lb mark. :p

Sounds great!

i was 245 two years ago. A combination of too much work, raising 5 kids, and lots of deaths in the family led me to forget to take care of myself. Biking, a major hobby/love of mine since I was little got me back in shape. You can do it too!

Yep, already making good progress, but having a decent bike will just make things even easier, as I love commuting on it to buy computer parts, do grocery shopping and visit friends.

My bike has a suspension seat post which I really like. It's adjustable for weight and really takes the pain out of sharp jolts you don't see coming

May as well close this thread; nobody's going to top that... :beer:

I have two suspension seat posts and love both of them.

Unfortunately, I have a tender backside and as such, have a thudbuster on my fully suspended mountain bike. I also have a Cannondale R100 (very stiff bike) with a internal spring suspension seat post that is very old and I think it is a aveneur brand.

Yes there is a little bit of slop in them, and yes they are a bit bouncy. It just doesn't bother me.

I do like the extra comfort and if I got a new bike, I would carefully transfer either one over to the new bike or get another one depending on the situation.

On the Cannondale, I do have some neck/shoulder/tailbone issues and am sore after long rides or repeated daily commutes on the cannondale. While the suspension seat posts go a long way to soften the bumps, my third bike is a Vison recumbent which is ultra comfortable although slower and heavier.

Bottom line is that I really like the suspension seat posts, both of mine have been used quite a bit for a long time, don't know the mileage but our roads here stink so they get quite a workout.

Regards,
Cranky

Coincidentally, I just installed another thudbuster on one my bikes today.

What's all the fuss about -- great technology, do the job, fine tune-able, not too heavy, use any saddle you want, last forever.

All of the cylinder/piston style seatposts work loose after a while and are then junk.
The more expensive pivot and spring ones last, eg Thudbuster, Body Float, Tamer. Wider tyres such as Schwalbe Big Apple make short work of everyday bumps and rough road.
Brooks sprung saddles are more suitable for heavy riders who have an upright riding style. For lightweight riders they are overbuilt.

Yeah, a quick calculation tells me my valve springs have done 336,000,000 cycles each

Do a search on a tire pressure calculator and save your money.

http://www.dorkypantsr.us/bike-tire-...alculator.html

Something that's expensive and serves a need that you don't have can't possibly be worth it.