Commuting via Coast and Ferry
#1
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Commuting via Coast and Ferry
Hello there,
I'm pretty new to cycling so I'm looking for some advice on which is the better option for me. I'm currently commuting via train and I've discovered I could save £6 a week (plus petrol costs - driving to the station) if I cycle up the coast and jump on the ferry. The journey itself would take longer but it's a nice route and I think the morning sea air would be a great way to start the day.
The route is a mixture of roads but mostly offroad and I'm thinking a hybrid might be the best option for this. Here's an idea of the ground I'm looking to cycle on:

Would a hybrid be best? Or should I look at more MTB?
I'm pretty new to cycling so I'm looking for some advice on which is the better option for me. I'm currently commuting via train and I've discovered I could save £6 a week (plus petrol costs - driving to the station) if I cycle up the coast and jump on the ferry. The journey itself would take longer but it's a nice route and I think the morning sea air would be a great way to start the day.
The route is a mixture of roads but mostly offroad and I'm thinking a hybrid might be the best option for this. Here's an idea of the ground I'm looking to cycle on:
Would a hybrid be best? Or should I look at more MTB?
#3
Banned
Joined: Jun 2010
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From: NW,Oregon Coast
Bikes: 8
Puget Sound has islands that are served by Ferrys.. "£" says you are in UK.
These drive on - drive off ferrys ?
Going Generic, maybe a bike with 700c-32~37 wide tires .. Hybrid/Trekking = flat bars , Cyclocross/touring = drop bars .
So pick you a local shop, service after the sale is valuable. What brands do they sell? what is your budget?
These drive on - drive off ferrys ?
Going Generic, maybe a bike with 700c-32~37 wide tires .. Hybrid/Trekking = flat bars , Cyclocross/touring = drop bars .
So pick you a local shop, service after the sale is valuable. What brands do they sell? what is your budget?
Last edited by fietsbob; 04-09-16 at 11:50 AM.
#4
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Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 133
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From: Boston, MA
Bikes: Many machines in pieces on the ground.
Hybrids and MTBs have a lot in common, just differ in weight, sturdiness, and especially wheels. In either case you probably want the ability to mount wide tires (min. 35 cc) as suggested above, plus probably rack and fender mounts.
Really depends on what the trail is like: if it is a smooth dirt or gravel road with only pot holes, you might get by with a more hybrid-like bike, but if there are rocks, holes, and other obstacles, then you'll probably want a MTB. I've never felt I needed suspension myself.
Looks like a great ride to start the day with!
Really depends on what the trail is like: if it is a smooth dirt or gravel road with only pot holes, you might get by with a more hybrid-like bike, but if there are rocks, holes, and other obstacles, then you'll probably want a MTB. I've never felt I needed suspension myself.
Looks like a great ride to start the day with!
#5
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How do you think a Ribble CR1 (Ribble 7005 CR1 - Alloy Cyclocross - Ribble Cycles) would hold up on this route?
#6
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From: San Diego
Bikes: Windsor Clockwork, Nashbar Steel Cyclocross
How do you think a Ribble CR1 (Ribble 7005 CR1 - Alloy Cyclocross - Ribble Cycles) would hold up on this route?
#7
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I can't really get a gist of your route from the pic, but if any significant portion of your commute is on the road, and your trail isn't too rugged, a cross bike is a good choice. Generally they're really versatile, and as your cycling grows, you can use them on or off road, for more advanced riding than you'll ever get out of a hybrid. Is it as good as a good road bike on pavement? Can be close. Is it as good as a MTB off road? Probably not. Better than a hybrid in both cases? IMO, yes.
#8
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From: NW,Oregon Coast
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So how long do you demand it "hold Up" will it be maintained ? by you or a shop?.
are you willing to change components or leave everything as is out of the box?
I see trendy low spoke count wheels , they will need truing and riding carefully over time.
that salt or fresh water ?, NB: things rust faster near the Ocean.
are you willing to change components or leave everything as is out of the box?
I see trendy low spoke count wheels , they will need truing and riding carefully over time.
that salt or fresh water ?, NB: things rust faster near the Ocean.
Last edited by fietsbob; 04-10-16 at 08:46 AM.
#9
Disco Infiltrator




Joined: May 2013
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From: Folsom CA
Bikes: Stormchaser, Paramount, Tilt, Samba tandem
Ride to work along the beach every day? Some life, huh? :-D
Probably nearly any bike with 32 or wider tires will handle the trail shown. How far are you going and what are you doing with the bike at either end? Are you thinking to ride in fair weather or go for it every day?
Probably nearly any bike with 32 or wider tires will handle the trail shown. How far are you going and what are you doing with the bike at either end? Are you thinking to ride in fair weather or go for it every day?
__________________
Genesis 49:16-17
"Well, well!" said Holmes, impatiently. "A good cyclist does not need a high road. The moor is intersected with paths and the moon is at the full."
Genesis 49:16-17
"Well, well!" said Holmes, impatiently. "A good cyclist does not need a high road. The moor is intersected with paths and the moon is at the full."
Last edited by Darth Lefty; 04-10-16 at 10:10 AM.
#10
Prefers Cicero

Joined: Jul 2005
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From: Toronto
Bikes: 1984 Trek 520; 2007 Bike Friday NWT; misc others
If you plan to ride in damp weather or even after rain, you may want to get fenders. If the road is damp, the tires will throw moisture and mud off the front wheel and it will splash of the downtube (lower frame tube) onto your feet and shins; and from the rear wheel it will fly up onto your back. (EDIT: I see the bike can accommodate fenders.)
The Ribble bike you posted has low set front handlebars (lower than the saddle) that put you in a low, aerodynamic position, and that may be good for a breezy coastal area, but as a new cyclist or if you are overweight, you may find it too aggressive. My rule of thumb is that the handlebars should be at seat height for utility riding as opposed to speed riding, but everyone has their own preferences.
You say you are new to cycling - do you already have a bike?
The Ribble bike you posted has low set front handlebars (lower than the saddle) that put you in a low, aerodynamic position, and that may be good for a breezy coastal area, but as a new cyclist or if you are overweight, you may find it too aggressive. My rule of thumb is that the handlebars should be at seat height for utility riding as opposed to speed riding, but everyone has their own preferences.
You say you are new to cycling - do you already have a bike?
Last edited by cooker; 04-10-16 at 11:46 AM.
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