(Winter) Clothing guide
#26
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From: Michigan
Bikes: Windsor Fens, Giant Seek 0 (2014, Alfine 8 + discs)
Hah, that's an awesome list. Though FWIW, even my crappy old 1969 American car started at -40*F, though it was a struggle. My new American cars (all made since 1999) don't have any trouble at all starting at -25*F. I've never owned a non-American car so I don't really know how they compare.
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Work: the 8 hours that separates bike rides.
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#27
I've pushed it a bit lower than 20F bu tthat gets me through the winter in the "torpical" NYC area.
In Michigan, I guess I'd need a little more thermal items for that hood. Sometimes wonder how folks ride in sub zero F temps but they are there. This reminds meof a temperature joke like the one below:
"Cold" is a relative term. Use the handy list below to overcome the confusion. Degrees (Fahrenheit)…
In Michigan, I guess I'd need a little more thermal items for that hood. Sometimes wonder how folks ride in sub zero F temps but they are there. This reminds meof a temperature joke like the one below:"Cold" is a relative term. Use the handy list below to overcome the confusion. Degrees (Fahrenheit)…
Last edited by Jim from Boston; 11-03-16 at 12:16 PM.
#28
meh

Joined: Jul 2014
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From: Hopkins, MN
Bikes: 23 Cutthroat, 21 CoMotion Java; 21 Bianchi Infinito; 15 Surly Pugsley; 11 Globe Daily; 09 Kona Dew Drop; 96 Mondonico
That's one of my biggest challenges, keeping water from freezing. For those of us that ride in freeze-your-water-bottle-cold, I have to share a local friend's company - Gupgum Gear. He makes bottle cage coozies. This doubles the time my water stays liquid.
Here's a pic of my winter-beast with Gupgum coozie:
IMG_20160229_161336709.jpg
Here's a pic of my winter-beast with Gupgum coozie:
IMG_20160229_161336709.jpg
Last edited by Hypno Toad; 11-03-16 at 06:31 AM.
#29
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From: Michigan
Bikes: Windsor Fens, Giant Seek 0 (2014, Alfine 8 + discs)
Heck, I just gave up carrying water bottles in cold temps.
I bought a polar insulated water bottle, and even if I filled it with hot water at the start, it would be frozen solid before I got more than about 2/3 of the way to work.
I bought a polar insulated water bottle, and even if I filled it with hot water at the start, it would be frozen solid before I got more than about 2/3 of the way to work.
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#30
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From: Thornton, CO
Bikes: 2003 Orbea Orca, 2003 Bianchi Imola, ? Waterford
@Hypno Toad, I like PI clothing as well. I just bought their thermal lite gloves and elite thermal long sleeve jersey. I got tired of the holes in the fingers of my current gloves. I think they are just cheap ones my wife bought somewhere for yard work.
Last edited by ptempel; 11-02-16 at 11:28 AM.
#31
I can post my notes so far this year... but one thing to consider that most people are overlooking... as your fitness increases, your "casual" pace increases, that means more watts to the ground, and more watts to the core / body heat. Also, as your body fat decreases, your natural insulation decreases.
If you used to commute at 150w, but now you casually roll along at 250w, you will require much less clothing to stay warm.
That said, my fingers are still cold, no matter what anyone tell me. So far only numbish, but truly numb is just around the corner.
This is what I have so far: (all shorts and tights are Hincapie bibs)
60-99 shorts and ss jersey (maybe arm warmers)
50-60 shorts, ss jersey, *arm warmers
45-55 shorts, *knee warmers, *medium base layer, ss jersey, *long finger gloves
40-50 *polar knickers, short sleeve jersey, *team jacket, *warmer long finger gloves
35-45 *polar knickers, *long sleeve jersey, *team jacket, *warmer long finger gloves (maybe winter gloves)
30-40 *polar tights, *long sleeve jersey, *team jacket, izumi winter gloves (probably with liners), thin wool ski socks, arenberg hat (for ears)
Under 30 - still TBD - but I have more (and thicker) base layers, knee warmers (under polar tights), balaclava, lobster claws, thick wool ski socks, and north wave farenheit mtb shoes in reserve.
If you used to commute at 150w, but now you casually roll along at 250w, you will require much less clothing to stay warm.
That said, my fingers are still cold, no matter what anyone tell me. So far only numbish, but truly numb is just around the corner.
This is what I have so far: (all shorts and tights are Hincapie bibs)
60-99 shorts and ss jersey (maybe arm warmers)
50-60 shorts, ss jersey, *arm warmers
45-55 shorts, *knee warmers, *medium base layer, ss jersey, *long finger gloves
40-50 *polar knickers, short sleeve jersey, *team jacket, *warmer long finger gloves
35-45 *polar knickers, *long sleeve jersey, *team jacket, *warmer long finger gloves (maybe winter gloves)
30-40 *polar tights, *long sleeve jersey, *team jacket, izumi winter gloves (probably with liners), thin wool ski socks, arenberg hat (for ears)
Under 30 - still TBD - but I have more (and thicker) base layers, knee warmers (under polar tights), balaclava, lobster claws, thick wool ski socks, and north wave farenheit mtb shoes in reserve.
#32
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From: North of Boston
Bikes: Kona Dawg, Surly 1x1, Karate Monkey, Rockhopper, Crosscheck , Burley Runabout,
Last winter I managed most of the season with T-shirt under an old mockneck sweatshirt (or old LL Bean rag wool sweater) up top with Propper ripstop cargo pants, wool socks and some Teva hiking shoes. On the face, wool Buff and hat.
This is Lexington KY, and my lows were usually teens (night shifts), but it worked. I'm hoping to come up with something better this year, especially on the bottom--my privates were usually fairly well iced by the time I got home/to work.
This is Lexington KY, and my lows were usually teens (night shifts), but it worked. I'm hoping to come up with something better this year, especially on the bottom--my privates were usually fairly well iced by the time I got home/to work.
#33
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From: Thornton, CO
Bikes: 2003 Orbea Orca, 2003 Bianchi Imola, ? Waterford
If you feel any tingling when you go into the shower, then you were underdressed and risk frostbite. I had this experience a long time ago on the toes on my feet if I recall. I just had to learn to dress properly and layer up on my legs and core. For your fingers, try another layer on your chest. Maybe another baselayer compression long sleeve shirt perhaps? My experience so far has been if I keep the core covered and warn, then the extremities will take care of themselves somewhat. So 20-29F for example, means four layers on the chest, two on the legs, two on the head (balaclava and winter cap), two on the feet plus shoe covers and winter gloves for me. Then I never feel too cold on the hands or feet.
#34
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If you feel any tingling when you go into the shower, then you were underdressed and risk frostbite. I had this experience a long time ago on the toes on my feet if I recall. I just had to learn to dress properly and layer up on my legs and core. For your fingers, try another layer on your chest. Maybe another baselayer compression long sleeve shirt perhaps? My experience so far has been if I keep the core covered and warn, then the extremities will take care of themselves somewhat. So 20-29F for example, means four layers on the chest, two on the legs, two on the head (balaclava and winter cap), two on the feet plus shoe covers and winter gloves for me. Then I never feel too cold on the hands or feet.
#35
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From: Mississauga/Toronto, Ontario canada
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I never had that problem because I don't carry water during winter...Instead I carry two thermos vacuum bottles with hot tea or some other warm drink. Why would anybody want to drink ice cold water on freezing cold winter day ??.. a hot drink on a cold day is so much better.
#36
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A ride of under an hour in the middle of winter doesn't really require water. Right now I still have about a quarter bottle, but soon I'll forgo it altogether, bottle and all.
#37
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From: Michigan
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Man, I don't even wear 4 layers on the chest at -20*F, let alone at +20*F. I'd probably have to stop and cool off every few miles.
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#38
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From: Lexington, KY
Bikes: 2018 Jamis Renegade Explore, 2011 Raleigh Cadent FT0
Last week when it was in the 40's I realized I was really comfortable wearing layers that would have been appropriate 10 degrees warmer in the past. I've taken to doubting the temperature I see on my phone when I get ready to commute and wondered how I was comfortable wearing ventilated shoes, thin pants and a thin baselayer when it was that cold out. But when I checked the temperature again it matched the phone so I guess I'm just adapting to the colder weather.
#39
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From: Mississauga/Toronto, Ontario canada
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Drinking enough fluids is just as important during cold winter as it is during hot summer. Dehydration can actually happen faster during winter then summer. You can be dehydrated and not even feel very thirsty.
#40
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From: Novi Sad
Bikes: Heavy, with friction shifters
But you can drink water before and after the ride. Especially if it's not over hour, or two.
#41
For cold commutes (10-40F) it is xc ski tights, 2x socks, shoe covers, gloves, bandanna (no hat), synthetic 1x or 2x top. I have a high core temp. For me the biggest problems emerge on extended winter riding, the body seems to start chilling down after a few hours riding. Often post ride even in a warm house I will become chilled for 20-30 minutes.
#42
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Also, I routinely run 90+ minutes early in the morning right after waking up, and without a sip of water. I wouldn't recommend anyone else doing it, but I've learned this much about myself over the many years of training.
#43
I find that often on my 14 mile commute on cold days, I become irresistably sleepy within about one hour of arrival. Fortunately at my job I can catch a brief microsleep to relieve myself.
BTW, speaking of relief, I have seen few threads in almost eight years reading BikeForums about this this off-topic winter commuting problem, somewhat related to winter dress: Cold Diuresis (there, I’ve said it).
If you’re discussing what I think it is, this topic was considered last winter on Fifty-Plus:”Bladder control in cold weather riding!”
Prior to googling this, I had thought that the above-described vascular constriction model was the mechanism.
Here in Massachusetts, there are stories (? urban legends) about scofflaws diuresing in public being tagged as Level I sex offenders. So one has to be careful….
Maybe so, but for my 1+ hour winter commute I cut back on drinking, including a morning coffee, and visit the porcelain receptacle, fully dressed, just before departure.
BTW, speaking of relief, I have seen few threads in almost eight years reading BikeForums about this this off-topic winter commuting problem, somewhat related to winter dress: Cold Diuresis (there, I’ve said it).

Originally Posted by Outside Magazine
What you’re experiencing is called cold diuresis,a phenomenon that occurs for reasons that are not entirely clear. One theory that remains popular—though it has been contested—explains how it works like this: When your temperature starts to drop, your body will attempt to reduce heat loss by constricting blood vessels and reducing blood flow to the surfaceof the skin. When that happens, your blood pressure will rise, because the same volume of blood is flowing through less space in your body. In response, your kidneys will pull out excess fluid to reduce your blood pressure, making you have to pee.
“A full bladder is a place for additional heat loss, so urinating will help conserve heat,” writes Rick Curtis, the director of Princeton University’s Outdoor Action Program…
“A full bladder is a place for additional heat loss, so urinating will help conserve heat,” writes Rick Curtis, the director of Princeton University’s Outdoor Action Program…
Here in Massachusetts, there are stories (? urban legends) about scofflaws diuresing in public being tagged as Level I sex offenders. So one has to be careful….
Last edited by Jim from Boston; 11-03-16 at 07:25 AM.
#44
meh

Joined: Jul 2014
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From: Hopkins, MN
Bikes: 23 Cutthroat, 21 CoMotion Java; 21 Bianchi Infinito; 15 Surly Pugsley; 11 Globe Daily; 09 Kona Dew Drop; 96 Mondonico
For those asking about hydration on winter rides, I like to ride fatbike metric centuries in the winter, so I need the hydration on the ride. I've also done long sub-zero rides (25 to 45 miles). All of this is long-term planning/training for the Arrowhead 135.
Edit - back to the double-walled thermal bottles... this is what I need to use for the Arrowhead 135, along with coozies.
Last edited by Hypno Toad; 11-03-16 at 06:37 AM.
#45
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Joined: Feb 2005
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From: Thornton, CO
Bikes: 2003 Orbea Orca, 2003 Bianchi Imola, ? Waterford
#46
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From: Thornton, CO
Bikes: 2003 Orbea Orca, 2003 Bianchi Imola, ? Waterford
I don't carry any water for my park and ride. Its only 10 miles (35-40 min) each way. Just get your cup o' joe at home or in the car before the ride and you're good to go!
Last edited by ptempel; 11-03-16 at 07:23 AM.
#47
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From: Thornton, CO
Bikes: 2003 Orbea Orca, 2003 Bianchi Imola, ? Waterford
Edit: Or you could be a "polar bear" like a guy I used to work with. He would wear short sleeve shirts all the way down to low 50's F.
Last edited by ptempel; 11-03-16 at 07:40 AM.
#48
Core body temperature in regards to keeping extremities comfortable makes a pretty big difference. So far, I'm not hard core enough to try biking outside regardless of weather, but I do live on a farm, and do have to do chores 2x a day regardless of the outside temperature, which as been as low as an actual -54F prior to accounting for windchill. My choring gloves are truly nothing special. They are leather palmed/canvas backed with cheap insulation, like maybe cost $15...basic Tractor Supply Store junk gloves. They are more than enough because I put on an entire arctic weight set of coveralls on, that I frequently end up un-zipping to the waist after I get warmed up. Boots are muck boot company chore boots, which ARE rated for -40, worn over just regular socks that I'd easily wear to the office.
My feet are always good, fingers can initially get cold if I'm working outside using a metal handled fork for example, but that's generally only happened when I've decided to skip the coveralls and wear something over my core/legs that isn't really up to the task.
On the bike, blocking out the wind seems to be key for me being able to tolerate riding in the cold. My commute is short, and since I wear office attire, my legs are my weakest link. I generally only commuted last winter if the wind wasn't ripping, and the temps were well above 0. This year, my plan is to throw a pair of wind pants on over my slacks to hopefully have more rideable commutes. Headband/wool skull cap under the helmet, Heritage arctic weight fingered "mittens" for the hands (they are an equestrian product that seem to translate good to biking for me), and a traditional winter coat over long sleeve technical base layer top/fleece is what is typical for me.
#49
Another important factor is the length of time riding. I can stay pretty warm for commutes up to an hour, but over that, the body core temperature seems to start dropping. 45 minutes in really cold weather is just about right for me.
#50
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From: Chicagoland
Bikes: Specialized Hardrock
I bring an extra layer with me when it's cold in case I end up not being able to ride, like when I got a flat tire last ride home of the year for me a few years ago. It was dark and rainy then, and I made the call of shame instead of changing the tube there. The extra layer kept me warm while waiting.
I bought a new winter coat this year, and was amused at reading the reviews. One was from someone in southern California who said it kept him warm when the temperature gets down into the 50's, and another reviewer said he could wear either layer until it got down into the 20's and then combined them for more warmth. Those 2 definitely have different definitions of cold.
I bought a new winter coat this year, and was amused at reading the reviews. One was from someone in southern California who said it kept him warm when the temperature gets down into the 50's, and another reviewer said he could wear either layer until it got down into the 20's and then combined them for more warmth. Those 2 definitely have different definitions of cold.



