Need a New Chain - Availability Issue
#1
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Need a New Chain - Availability Issue
I need a new Shimano HG53 9-Speed "118" Link Chain for my bike, but apparently this is a rare collectors only item, because that's about the level availability I'm finding. I want to order one online, and I found one that can ship from Japan, but I don't want to wait about a month to receive it.
Does anyone know of an online retailer where I can order one and receive it relatively soon here in the U.S.?
As a last resort, I suppose I can check with some local bicycle shops to see if they either have one or can get one, but I'd prefer to just order one online.
Does anyone know of an online retailer where I can order one and receive it relatively soon here in the U.S.?
As a last resort, I suppose I can check with some local bicycle shops to see if they either have one or can get one, but I'd prefer to just order one online.
#2
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First of all, keep in mind that transit times via mail from japan to the USA is MUCH shorter than a month. Figure a long week, or maybe 10 days.
Secondly, are you sure you need 118 links? I ask because most of us end up cutting 2-6 links off 112 or 114 link chains anyway.
If your current chain is 118 links, you can do a simple test to see if a shorter chain will serve. Shift to the big/big combo, and use a piece of string to toe the chain at the top of the chainring so it can't come off. Then disengage the chain from the bottom of the chainring and pull it forward until it's straight, and hook a roller onto the bottom of the ring. (The string should keep the crank from turning, though you might help).
Now count how many links you've pulled up. The first 2 (1") represent the added slack for shifting (big/big +1"), the rest can be done without. So if you started with 118 links, and pulled 6 up, then you only need 114.
As a last resort, you can buy two chains and splice them together, which is what recumbent owners have to do as a matter of course. Save the unused chain for the next go round.
Secondly, are you sure you need 118 links? I ask because most of us end up cutting 2-6 links off 112 or 114 link chains anyway.
If your current chain is 118 links, you can do a simple test to see if a shorter chain will serve. Shift to the big/big combo, and use a piece of string to toe the chain at the top of the chainring so it can't come off. Then disengage the chain from the bottom of the chainring and pull it forward until it's straight, and hook a roller onto the bottom of the ring. (The string should keep the crank from turning, though you might help).
Now count how many links you've pulled up. The first 2 (1") represent the added slack for shifting (big/big +1"), the rest can be done without. So if you started with 118 links, and pulled 6 up, then you only need 114.
As a last resort, you can buy two chains and splice them together, which is what recumbent owners have to do as a matter of course. Save the unused chain for the next go round.
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Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
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FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#3
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First of all, keep in mind that transit times via mail from japan to the USA is MUCH shorter than a month. Figure a long week, or maybe 10 days.
Secondly, are you sure you need 118 links? I ask because most of us end up cutting 2-6 links off 112 or 114 link chains anyway.
If your current chain is 118 links, you can do a simple test to see if a shorter chain will serve. Shift to the big/big combo, and use a piece of string to toe the chain at the top of the chainring so it can't come off. Then disengage the chain from the bottom of the chainring and pull it forward until it's straight, and hook a roller onto the bottom of the ring. (The string should keep the crank from turning, though you might help).
Now count how many links you've pulled up. The first 2 (1") represent the added slack for shifting (big/big +1"), the rest can be done without. So if you started with 118 links, and pulled 6 up, then you only need 114.
As a last resort, you can buy two chains and splice them together, which is what recumbent owners have to do as a matter of course. Save the unused chain for the next go round.
Secondly, are you sure you need 118 links? I ask because most of us end up cutting 2-6 links off 112 or 114 link chains anyway.
If your current chain is 118 links, you can do a simple test to see if a shorter chain will serve. Shift to the big/big combo, and use a piece of string to toe the chain at the top of the chainring so it can't come off. Then disengage the chain from the bottom of the chainring and pull it forward until it's straight, and hook a roller onto the bottom of the ring. (The string should keep the crank from turning, though you might help).
Now count how many links you've pulled up. The first 2 (1") represent the added slack for shifting (big/big +1"), the rest can be done without. So if you started with 118 links, and pulled 6 up, then you only need 114.
As a last resort, you can buy two chains and splice them together, which is what recumbent owners have to do as a matter of course. Save the unused chain for the next go round.
#4
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
FWIW - I have a bias about two connectors close together. It's not any science that I can explain or justify, just a bug. So, you might bring one chain down to about 110 links or less, then splice in a short length. Or you can cut them both nearer to the middle (not in the middle) and splice the two longer sections together, saving the shorter ones for your next chains.
But, if the cost is right, don't discount buying from Japan. The mail transit time will be shorter than you expect.
But, if the cost is right, don't discount buying from Japan. The mail transit time will be shorter than you expect.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#5
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FWIW - I have a bias about two connectors close together. It's not any science that I can explain or justify, just a bug. So, you might bring one chain down to about 110 links or less, then splice in a short length. Or you can cut them both nearer to the middle (not in the middle) and splice the two longer sections together, saving the shorter ones for your next chains.
But, if the cost is right, don't discount buying from Japan. The mail transit time will be shorter than you expect.
But, if the cost is right, don't discount buying from Japan. The mail transit time will be shorter than you expect.
Happy New Year!
#6
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Contact a shop or retailer that handles recumbents. Because of the longer (and variable) lengths used by bents, they usually buy chain in bulk lengths and sell it by the foot.
#7
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FWIW - I have a bias about two connectors close together. It's not any science that I can explain or justify, just a bug. So, you might bring one chain down to about 110 links or less, then splice in a short length. Or you can cut them both nearer to the middle (not in the middle) and splice the two longer sections together, saving the shorter ones for your next chains.
But, if the cost is right, don't discount buying from Japan. The mail transit time will be shorter than you expect.
But, if the cost is right, don't discount buying from Japan. The mail transit time will be shorter than you expect.
#8
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#9
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Me too, it was very disappointing. I checked local shops, all they had were the 114 and 116 link versions, just like everywhere online. I was only able to find one 118 link that I needed from an ebay seller in Japan, and one from an Alibaba seller in China. I guess if it's not a fairly high selling item, no one want's to stock it.
#10
Some of the Shimano chains I've seen (HG73) come with both a master link and a master pin.
So, you could use the master pin to add 2 to 4 more links, and then the master link to splice.
If not, a pile of link pins are relatively cheap too.
So, you could use the master pin to add 2 to 4 more links, and then the master link to splice.
If not, a pile of link pins are relatively cheap too.
#11
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The HG53 doesn't have any other link options besides using pins. I tried a Sram PowerLink and a KMC MissingLink, and both cause the chain to bind when they reached the rear cassette. Perhaps those only work correctly on a Sram drive-train.
#12
The HG53, HG73, & HG93 chains should all be more or less compatible, and you should be able to use any of them.
I bought mine (HG73) from China (with made in Japan printed on the box)... does anybody make counterfeit chains? Anyway, the wear has been quicker than I'd like, so I've been wondering (and looking for alternatives)
The latest batch came with both the quick links and pins, but I can't say if that is universal or just with my particular chains. I never tried the quick links. I may have a couple spares if I can find them, but no guarantee of their quality.
The replacement pins are apparently the same for all 9s chain models.
#13
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It's not unusual for a bike with a long wheelbase and long chainstay to need more than 116 links. My Globe Carmel comfort hybrid needs 122 links. I bought a single KMC Z72 chain from REI and the mechanic kicked in some extra identical links, cut from new Z72 chains installed on other bikes than needed fewer than 116 links.
If the KMC Missing Link seems to be binding be sure it's the correct match for the chain. I overlooked this detail a few weeks ago. The Missing Link version one is 7.3mm pin length; the MLII is 7.1mm. I couldn't read the fine print without my heavy duty reading glasses. I noticed the difference only after installing the MLII (7.1mm) on a spliced Z33 chain (7.3mm pins), and realized the Missing Link was binding slightly.
Anyway, now I have a couple of new KMC chains to use for cutting and splicing for future changes. Turns out the gritty rural chip seal and gravel roads I enjoy riding are chewing through chains and cassettes quicker than I'd expected so I'll probably need to replace them every year.
If the KMC Missing Link seems to be binding be sure it's the correct match for the chain. I overlooked this detail a few weeks ago. The Missing Link version one is 7.3mm pin length; the MLII is 7.1mm. I couldn't read the fine print without my heavy duty reading glasses. I noticed the difference only after installing the MLII (7.1mm) on a spliced Z33 chain (7.3mm pins), and realized the Missing Link was binding slightly.
Anyway, now I have a couple of new KMC chains to use for cutting and splicing for future changes. Turns out the gritty rural chip seal and gravel roads I enjoy riding are chewing through chains and cassettes quicker than I'd expected so I'll probably need to replace them every year.
#14
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Hmmm
The HG53, HG73, & HG93 chains should all be more or less compatible, and you should be able to use any of them.
I bought mine (HG73) from China (with made in Japan printed on the box)... does anybody make counterfeit chains? Anyway, the wear has been quicker than I'd like, so I've been wondering (and looking for alternatives)
The latest batch came with both the quick links and pins, but I can't say if that is universal or just with my particular chains. I never tried the quick links. I may have a couple spares if I can find them, but no guarantee of their quality.
The replacement pins are apparently the same for all 9s chain models.
The HG53, HG73, & HG93 chains should all be more or less compatible, and you should be able to use any of them.
I bought mine (HG73) from China (with made in Japan printed on the box)... does anybody make counterfeit chains? Anyway, the wear has been quicker than I'd like, so I've been wondering (and looking for alternatives)
The latest batch came with both the quick links and pins, but I can't say if that is universal or just with my particular chains. I never tried the quick links. I may have a couple spares if I can find them, but no guarantee of their quality.
The replacement pins are apparently the same for all 9s chain models.
It's not unusual for a bike with a long wheelbase and long chainstay to need more than 116 links. My Globe Carmel comfort hybrid needs 122 links. I bought a single KMC Z72 chain from REI and the mechanic kicked in some extra identical links, cut from new Z72 chains installed on other bikes than needed fewer than 116 links.
If the KMC Missing Link seems to be binding be sure it's the correct match for the chain. I overlooked this detail a few weeks ago. The Missing Link version one is 7.3mm pin length; the MLII is 7.1mm. I couldn't read the fine print without my heavy duty reading glasses. I noticed the difference only after installing the MLII (7.1mm) on a spliced Z33 chain (7.3mm pins), and realized the Missing Link was binding slightly.
Anyway, now I have a couple of new KMC chains to use for cutting and splicing for future changes. Turns out the gritty rural chip seal and gravel roads I enjoy riding are chewing through chains and cassettes quicker than I'd expected so I'll probably need to replace them every year.
If the KMC Missing Link seems to be binding be sure it's the correct match for the chain. I overlooked this detail a few weeks ago. The Missing Link version one is 7.3mm pin length; the MLII is 7.1mm. I couldn't read the fine print without my heavy duty reading glasses. I noticed the difference only after installing the MLII (7.1mm) on a spliced Z33 chain (7.3mm pins), and realized the Missing Link was binding slightly.
Anyway, now I have a couple of new KMC chains to use for cutting and splicing for future changes. Turns out the gritty rural chip seal and gravel roads I enjoy riding are chewing through chains and cassettes quicker than I'd expected so I'll probably need to replace them every year.
Last edited by AdvXtrm; 01-16-17 at 03:27 AM.
#16
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It's a 2016 Novara - Safari, so yes, a long chainstay. I also lowered the gearing considerably. So while the front rings are a bit smaller, the rear cassette sprockets are quite a bit larger. 116L was causing it to bind and lockup, now that I've got 118L on there it's just about perfect.
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#20
Are you having shifting issues? What exactly is the issue causing you to think you need a longer chain?
#21
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It doesn't sound right to me. How long are the chainstays? I doubt they are any longer than a Surly LHT or a Trek 520. I used a standard chain on my LHT. I could use two links more on my Surly, but didn't bother with it. It shifts fine, and has the added advantage that there is less chain slop when using the middle and smaller rings. I have zero binding anywhere in its range.
Are you having shifting issues? What exactly is the issue causing you to think you need a longer chain?
Are you having shifting issues? What exactly is the issue causing you to think you need a longer chain?
Last edited by AdvXtrm; 01-27-17 at 06:12 PM.
#22
It still sounds odd. I how you figure it out, but it doesn't really sound like just chain length. If it is, since you bought two chains, try more links. On what combination front ring/rear cog does it bind, or skip? Good luck, hope you figure it out.
#23
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Sorry, I tried to follow the thread while doing other things and you mentioned different links/chains, etc. I misses the specific response regarding only the 116 link chain.
It still sounds odd. I how you figure it out, but it doesn't really sound like just chain length. If it is, since you bought two chains, try more links. On what combination front ring/rear cog does it bind, or skip? Good luck, hope you figure it out.
It still sounds odd. I how you figure it out, but it doesn't really sound like just chain length. If it is, since you bought two chains, try more links. On what combination front ring/rear cog does it bind, or skip? Good luck, hope you figure it out.
Last edited by AdvXtrm; 01-27-17 at 08:30 PM.
#24
Well, on a triple, you would never use big/big so that's not an issue. Add the links and see. How does the derailleur look when you are big/big? I can do it with 116 links on my LHT, but it isn't how it should be, it is tight. Once again, it would never be used like that so it isn't an issue. Everything else works. 118 is what came on it from what I remember. Add the links and see how it is. Good luck!
#25
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Well, on a triple, you would never use big/big so that's not an issue. Add the links and see. How does the derailleur look when you are big/big? I can do it with 116 links on my LHT, but it isn't how it should be, it is tight. Once again, it would never be used like that so it isn't an issue. Everything else works. 118 is what came on it from what I remember. Add the links and see how it is. Good luck!






