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Find an old road bike on craigslist from the 70s or 80s and put a rack on it. Or find something like the giant momentum street bike. Seems like a more comfortable commuter.
Socks and sandals are my favorite thing to wear on a bicycle :) |
My former project lead has a pet quote that goes like this:
The most probable method for finishing sooner is to start sooner. |
When I'm rolling, my road bike is definitely faster than my hybrid by about 2-3 mph on average. However once I factor in traffic and other things that slow me down, the difference on a 10 mile commute is somewhere in the 3 minute range. Measurable, but not really significant enough to allow me to sleep later in the morning.
I didn't really notice much of a speed difference when I went to clipless. I like riding clipless, and I think there are benefits, but I don't think you'd notice a huge speed increase. Possible option Cs: Better fitness, e-bike or stop worrying about it. |
Here are some suggestions:
http://www.bikeforums.net/hybrid-bic...rformance.html |
Originally Posted by Anitza
(Post 19642913)
Hello all!
I regularly commute 28km round trip to work on a mid-grade hybrid bike, and although I'm reasonably fit, most people seem to smoke past me on the bike trails. But I'm getting mixed signals on what I can really do about this. Option A: upgrade to a nicer road bike. But given the cost, I only want to do it if it would *really* make a difference. (Current hybrid is a generic "Genesis" bike). Plus, I have some bumpy roads to navigate, needs paniers, etc. Option B: Get real bike shoes and clipless peddles (Yes I bike in sandals, please don't judge :) ). Would this be the best bang for the buck? Option C: Something I'm not thinking of. I'm new here, so I hope this is not too much of a repeat question. Many thanks! If I can shave even 5-10 minutes off my commute this would matter a lot. Using a backpack behind you, mounted on a rear rack, instead of panniers, will provide a difference in air drag that is immediately noticeable and measurable. Slick tyres for pavement. If you ride rough roads, go as wide as 37 mm, but make sure they are slick and of good quality, and inflated to a proper pressure. Make your riding position a bit more aero, if it's comfortable. Lower the bars, make them narrower (i like mine cut to about 50 cm), or both. Clipless pedals are not bad, but I wouldn't expect much benefit speedwise, especially on the flats. For commuting and convenience, I prefer platforms with studs, so my feet don't slip. |
Do you also ride recreationally? Might you want to? If a road bike is an option, get one -- With clipless pedals, shoes, etc. Ride it hard on weekends. Maybe join a club. When you are comfortable on your new bike, put your work stuff in a day pack and ride the road bike to work. You will be faster---guaranteed.
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The 100 mph 'dodge-em' car, built for BBC Top Gear show, was piloted be the enigmatic 'Stig', who in his white boiler suit
and non speaking role, is never seen without his full face helmet on, & visor down... |
My questions for the OP
- how long have you been doing this commute - how much other bicycling have you done - where is your current commute the slowest - traffic lights/path interruptions? long hills? My experience is that for a short (10-20km one way) commute, the speed will vary mostly with the rider and traffic, not the bicycle. If you've been riding a while, presumably the bicycle should fit you well and you know if the delays are due to traffic/intersections or hills. If you haven't been riding long, you'll find the commute will get faster as you get used to it and know where you can go fast or are slowed down. If this is the case, If you haven't already, make sure the bike is set up well - I've seen a number of new riders happier after adjusting seats, stems, brakes to make the bicycle more comfortable. Sounds like your hybrid has smooth tires and plenty of gears (more than 1), so I'd expect any significant time savings on your commute to come from building strength or changing your route, not your bicycle. |
Poster
Originally Posted by Anitza
(Post 19642913)
Option C: Something I'm not thinking of.
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I found the biggest lack of performance was due to my fitness or lack thereof. The greatest improvement can be found with greater fitness. You'll also enjoy it more.
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Originally Posted by shinybike
(Post 19655426)
I commute around 45-50km a day. Had no problem with distance but it took way too much time. I converted to pedal assist e-bike and shaved the time to about 1/2. Now averaging 20mph in the city is no problem
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I'm 58, I ride in socks and sandles, I don't wear special cycling garb, I get passed all the time. I'd like to improve my fitness level, but the 20 something roadies will still pass me. I'm fine with that.
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Originally Posted by shinybike
(Post 19655426)
I commute around 45-50km a day. Had no problem with distance but it took way too much time. I converted to pedal assist e-bike and shaved the time to about 1/2. Now averaging 20mph in the city is no problem
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Originally Posted by Classtime
(Post 19657931)
Motor bikes are not an acceptable option. OP obviously doesn't want to drive.
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If you don't have one already, I suggest getting a cycle computer. Knowing how fast you are going is key to keeping up your speed.
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Originally Posted by Classtime
(Post 19657931)
Motor bikes are not an acceptable option. OP obviously doesn't want to drive.
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My new commuter.
http://www.bikeforums.net/attachment...8&d=1497821936 All I have to do is figure out how to lock up the wheels once I cover up the valves. |
Originally Posted by CliffordK
(Post 19661791)
My new commuter.
http://www.bikeforums.net/attachment...8&d=1497821936 All I have to do is figure out how to lock up the wheels once I cover up the valves. |
Is your commute flat or hilly? I have a 10 mile commute which includes just under 600ft of climbing; I've done it on one of my mountain bikes a couple of times, and there is a huge difference between that and the road bikes I normally ride, certainly more than 5 minutes.
The road bike's quicker all round, but especially on climbs and descents. |
Originally Posted by SylvainG
(Post 19657709)
Ah! Two days ago on my commute back home (41 km a day), two bike paths merge into one and someone on a e-bike merged at the same time as me and we followed side by side. He asked me if I was also on an e-bike. I said nope, it's only my legs doing the work :)
Matt |
Originally Posted by CliffordK
(Post 19661791)
My new commuter.
http://www.bikeforums.net/attachment...8&d=1497821936 All I have to do is figure out how to lock up the wheels once I cover up the valves. |
Originally Posted by Tundra_Man
(Post 19662417)
Disc on front too? Hope you don't have to deal with cross winds. :)
Headwinds are as bad as crosswinds, so it only really feels stable with a tailwind (or no wind). It is not that it is uncontrollable, but the wind is a pain. But, when everything is right, it flies down the road :giver: |
I agree with Smirksalot about a bike computer. I started commuting about a month ago and my times were reducing slightly each trip, but until I bought a bike computer I didn't see much progress. In one week, since I got my computer, I've cut about 30% off my time. Now I can see where I can improve my speed and push myself to beat speeds at various portions of my route.
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Originally Posted by Anitza
(Post 19642913)
Hello all!
I regularly commute 28 km round trip towork on a mid-grade hybrid bike, and although I'm reasonably fit, most people seem to smoke past me on the bike trails. But I'm getting mixed signals on what I can really do about this… Option C: Something I'm not thinking of… Many thanks! If I can shave even 5-10 minutes off my commute this would matter a lot.
Originally Posted by noglider
(Post 19648267)
You will be able to answer your question better if you first do a bit of athletic training. Measure your accomplishments over time as you execute a plan of strengthening yourself. I recommend some sort of high intensity interval training. Basically, it's where you take a minute at a time, a few times through your ride, to ride as hard as possible, to the point of exhaustion, where you can't maintain the level of exertion after the one minute…
I wasn't improving my overall time until I pushed myself over my 13 mph limit. I was spending all of my time at or below 13 mph and hardly any over that speed. I pushed myself to keep the speed readout high, and now I spend a lot more time above13 mph. But this is what has worked for me and not necessarily the approach that would serve you best. How much faster do you want to be? In real world time, a very fast rider doesn't get to work much sooner than a slow rider, but I don't blame you for wanting to improve anyway.
Originally Posted by Jim from Boston
(Post 18375635)
I’m a 40+ year cyclist and I ride mainly for fitness. During nearly all of my 40 cycling years, my training has been by mileage....
Last year I developed for myself my"Time-restricted, Personally Ambitious, but Non-competitive Cyclist Training Routine"(link)…based on ”Relative Perceived Exertion (RPE).” My basic premise was that I wanted to get significantly fit, within a busy work/family time-crunched life, but not suffer so much that I would abandon the program. I do have the advantages of a very nice minimum 14 mile one way commute that is easily extended; and a high end, very comfortable carbon fiber road bike that encourages riding.
Originally Posted by Jim from Boston
(Post 18375635)
...I decided to go for speed (intensity), and I use the semi-quantitative, standardized, but personally relevant system of (Borg’s) Relative Perceived Exertion (RPE) (link), with my own particular adaptation…. I use cadence to chose gears to maintain my desired exertion.
Originally Posted by Jim from Boston
(Post 17916631)
The RPE scale ranges from 6 to 17, with verbal descriptions of the intensity. Multiply the RPE by 10 is the approximate heart rate. Jim's scale is the equivalent on a 0 to 100 scale, easier to think about:
RPE = 6, resting... Jim's scale = 10 to 20 RPE = 7, very, very light... Jim's scale = 20 to 30 RPE = 9, very light... Jim's scale = 30 to 40 11, fairly light...50 (my usual happy-go-lucky pace without thinking about it) 13, somewhat hard...60 (I have to focus to maintain) 15, hard...70 (I start breathing hard at about 30 seconds) 17, very hard (lactate threshold; breakpoint between hard but steady breathing and labored with gasping)...80 (my predicted max HR) 19, very, very hard...90 to 100. |
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