Originally Posted by RubeRad (Post 19708101)

And I'd guess you have a faster time if you're following the river downstream, a little slower on the way back up...

Originally Posted by davei1980 (Post 19700777)

Thanks and that's a full on urban assault vehicle you got there!!

Originally Posted by rumrunn6 (Post 19715794)

is that rear strobe mount stressed by the rear fender?

Originally Posted by cyccommute (Post 19715697)

Nay. This is an urban assault vehicle
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4322/...5ca5e4b7_b.jpg
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4258/...5cfe1700_b.jpg
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4214/...f604b4ab_h.jpg

I advocate leaving a mountain bike as a mountain bike and finding excuses to use it while commuting. Pounding dirt is a lot more fun than just pounding pavement:thumb:

Originally Posted by davei1980 (Post 19715949)

I like it! Now convince me to keep my shock absorber fork because everyone else has me thinking solid fork...

Originally Posted by davei1980 (Post 19715949)

I like it! Now convince me to keep my shock absorber fork because everyone else has me thinking solid fork...

Originally Posted by cyccommute (Post 19715697)

I advocate leaving a mountain bike as a mountain bike and finding excuses to use it while commuting. Pounding dirt is a lot more fun than just pounding pavement:thumb:

Originally Posted by RubeRad (Post 19716125)

If you're starting from the point of 'I want to take a cheap old mountain bike, and start commuting on it', then it probably has a suspension fork, and it's not worth the effort to replace with a suspension-corrected rigid fork.

But if your starting point is already rigid, I think most people will agree you're in better shape for urban riding.

Originally Posted by davei1980 (Post 19700845)

What do you think about the Michelins I picked out?

Originally Posted by davei1980 (Post 19717017)

What does "suspension corrected" mean?

Originally Posted by RubeRad (Post 19717181)

From The Man:

Suspension forks have more room above the top of the tire, to allow the suspension to move. Frames built for suspension forks are designed so that the bottom end of the head tube will normally be higher up to make room for the suspension fork's travel.
Suspension-corrected rigid forks mimic this geometry: they have longer blades to hold the head tube up to the same height a suspension fork would. If you desire to replace a suspension fork with a rigid fork, you should opt for a "suspension-corrected' rigid fork to preserve the frame's normal geometry.


If you're replacing it for sure and already have a suspension fork you like, I'd start with that and see whether it gives you any grief. If so, buy a suspension-corrected rigid fork. If you didn't already have a suspension fork, I'd say buy rigid because it's cheaper, lighter, and well, more rigid.

Originally Posted by RubeRad (Post 19717181)

From The Man:

Suspension forks have more room above the top of the tire, to allow the suspension to move. Frames built for suspension forks are designed so that the bottom end of the head tube will normally be higher up to make room for the suspension fork's travel.
Suspension-corrected rigid forks mimic this geometry: they have longer blades to hold the head tube up to the same height a suspension fork would. If you desire to replace a suspension fork with a rigid fork, you should opt for a "suspension-corrected' rigid fork to preserve the frame's normal geometry.


If you're replacing it for sure and already have a suspension fork you like, I'd start with that and see whether it gives you any grief. If so, buy a suspension-corrected rigid fork. If you didn't already have a suspension fork, I'd say buy rigid because it's cheaper, lighter, and well, more rigid.

Originally Posted by RubeRad (Post 19716125)

If you're starting from the point of 'I want to take a cheap old mountain bike, and start commuting on it', then it probably has a suspension fork, and it's not worth the effort to replace with a suspension-corrected rigid fork.

Originally Posted by davei1980 (Post 19717193)

Cool - got my eye on a CF fork on Amazon for $68 - not sure if it's "suspension corrected" but it's listed as a MTB fork so I guessing it's close??

Originally Posted by hermanchauw (Post 19717461)

Depends. If your fork is threadless, replacing it is easy. And there are cheap crmo forks going for less than usd$15 on taobao.

Check the axle to crown length. If it is about 440mm or more, yes. If 400mm or around there, no.

Originally Posted by JReade (Post 19716044)

Well if it has a lockout, you'll be fine with the suspension fork..because it's not a suspension fork anymore.

I converted a road bike to more upright posture, and converted it to a 1x6. There's a handful of times I want another gear for climbing, or one for cruising. I was debating going up a few teeth on the front ring and then maybe a wider range freewheel, but that also means a new chain... I digress. The 1x setup is not without fault, it can be prone to dropping chains, and on tired days or good tailwind days, you're left wanting more.

Originally Posted by skidder (Post 19721441)

As long as the bicycle is comfortable for you it shouldn't be a problem using a converted Fuji MTB as a commuter. I use a fully-rigid MTB as one of my commuter bicycles and just use the bigger front chain ring (no FD on it). Michellin Protek tires: I had a set of those, and didn't get any flats, but found the sidewalls cracked pretty quickly. I kept the bike indoors both at work and at home, so no sun exposure problems. After about 9 months I got rid of them.