Fuji MTB Commuter Conversion
 

I recently purchased this aluminum-frame Fuji MTB for next-to-nothing on craigslist in order to convert in to a commuter as I will be mostly riding on paved trails with my kids or to and from work.


A lot of people asked me "why not just buy a road-bike?"


I am only 5'8" so step-over height on most road bike frames is an issue. Also, I am just not used to drop handlebars or the shifter location on road bikes. I have always ridden MTBs so I am just more comfortable on them. The MTB frame is a bit heartier with front shock absorbers so that helps with the unpredictable nature of commuting with the potholes, curbs, etc.


So far I have ridden it to work for about a week with good results, saving $6/day on parking alone.


I am thinking about converting it over to a single-front chainring and only using the middle ring (might as well get rid of all the bits I don't need). Also, I am going to ditch the lousy, worn out Kenda MTB tires for the Michelin Protek tires (in the 26x1.4 size) pictured. Also small stuff like maybe an underseat fender and a set of the strapless toe clips they sell at REI.


The hope is to get a legit commuter for next to nothing - the budgetary constraints are in place because I can't really sell it to my wife that we're cutting down commuting costs if I dump tons of $ in to this project.


Any other hints/tips/encouragement appreciated!!! (And no making fun of the stock Suntour crankset and fork - those are here to stay for at least the next year - the fork until I can decide if I want to upgrade to a nicer Manitou/Rock Shox or go solid carbon fiber ... the crankset I really could care less until it breaks)

Not sure whether it helps or not, but most of Europe commutes on a non-road/race (depending on which variant of English you speak), and we get by OK.

When I lived in Germany, most commuted on a hardtail MTB or what Americans call a hybrid.

So, I think you're in excellent shape.

Also, my BSO thread is good for showing savings, and your initial outlay would be even less :)

Awesome, Thanks!

Welcome to bikeforums! You are doing everything right if speed is not your prime concern. Smooth street tires make for faster, easier riding. Sitting upright is better for traffic awareness, and wider, 26" wheels and tires tend to be more resilient than thinner 700 wheels. My main commuter is a more of a touring bike with a longer wheelbase, and fatter tires (although 700s). But for over 15 years I commuted exclusively on a MTB-based commuter. It is now my back-up commuter/utility bike and with studded snow tires my winter bike.

What I did was to add taller (higher) gearing to my MTB commuter to get higher cruising speeds. I've never ridden any distance with a suspension fork, but it seems most people here recommend locking it out for commuting.

Sturdy, comfortable, capable...MTB based commuters are a very good way to go.

Thanks and that's a full on urban assault vehicle you got there!!

And you're correct, as long as I can do 8.9 miles in 40 minutes I am happy. I am lucky my building has showers and whatnot but I am usually not that gross, it's very cool and dry, lo humidity in the mornings here in E Wa.

I am having a blast so far riding and wrenching. So much less stressful than driving during peak hours. Just tried to adjust my rear derailleur with mixed results! I am mechanical, just no experience with bikes.

Your comment about the forks makes me lean toward a CF disc brake fork as opposed to a better shock. I have seen CF forks for like $60 on Amazon

No need to spend $ on a CF. buy the best tires you can afford, then full fenders, a frame pump, and a spare tube. That will have you set for quite a while.

Point well taken, I just thought if I was replacing the existing fork then I may just go CF as opposed to alloy since they're getting pretty cheap.

What do you think about the Michelins I picked out?

I am going to see how this year goes, I am not sure I am hardcore enough to ride in the rain so I may just get a little underseat fender but we will see; liking it so far!

I am lucky that I have flexible office hours - it would be tricky if I was punching a time clock. All things to consider if your employer is bike friendly

Check out this site for tire info - tires in the touring section would make excellent commuter tires if you want something durable.
Bicycle Rolling Resistance | Rolling Resistance Tests

Fenders are really good because you stay dry when pavement is wet but it's not raining. You'd be shocked at how wet you can get on a 40 min ride when it rained an hour prior.

That all sounds fine to me. I wouldn't swap out or remove any parts unless they're broken and I wouldn't upgrade past Acera level. I'd only bother upgrading the fork if you are going real trail off-road and then you should get some nice tires at the same time.

Good call... thanks again for the advice

I would change the fork to rigid crmo.

As for brakes, after trying v brakes, BB7 and hydraulics, i have found the least inconvenient is v brakes.

Any advantage to CrMo vs CF other than $? I am not seeing any advantage to keeping the shock absorber. Also, I am dumb. What are v brakes? I have mechanical disk brakes in front and rim brakes in the back and am happy with that configuration

I would trust steel over carbon anytime for strength and durability.

V brakes also goes by the name "linear pull (cantilever) brakes" or something like that. It's a rim brake commonly used in mtbs and frames that take fat(ish) tires like 2.0".

Ok that's what's on the rear. Front is a disc. The fork will definitely be a winter project

Lol you already answered that question!

You're in good shape, just ride and enjoy. 8.9mi in 40 min is pretty fast in my book!

Those michelins should do fine. I do think they look oddly like car tires (flat contact surface), but I'm sure they'd be fine -- definitely better than a standard mtn knobby tire

Ok so the 40 minute comment is mesleading - I live on a road which runs along the Spokane River. There is a paved trail which follows the river all the way downtown where I work. Since the trail follows the river the whole way, there's minimal hills, the steepest part is an overpass, put there to avoid a busy intersection.

Because of the trail, I don't interact with traffic a ton. There are days in which I don't hit the brakes until I am almost all the way there. So I think my 8.9 miles is a little quicker because I don't hit many stop lights or intersections

Thanks for the feedback on the tires;
I don't want to be completely lost if I encounter gravel or road construction.

Still, ~15mph on an upright bike is nothing to sneeze at. Not blazing fast, but certainly not poodling along.

Thanks Abe - I will take that as a compliment! I just didn't want to give misleading information! Not bad for a 37 year old CPA who doesn't exercise!! It helps that I am not a huge guy I think....

No problem :)

38 year old guy in sales management here :lol:

A lot of us ride hardtail MTBs to work and back because they make great commuters, others start with one and move on to something else when the desire for something different is there. If you ride it like it is for a while and replace parts as they wear out you'll have a better idea as to what to replace them with.

I like it. Thanks for the sound advice

You will need lights when the days start getting shorter again. A rack and pannier would make your commute more comfortable if you have to carry clothes, documents, or a laptop to and from work or want to do some shopping on the way home.

And I'd guess you have a faster time if you're following the river downstream, a little slower on the way back up...

FWIW - was looking over some old notes recently & back when I was going thru bike changes & making comparisons, my best commute time was on a MTB w slicks. don't know if the same would hold true today, but that really surprised me