Wheel rim temperature
#1
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Wheel rim temperature
Hi Jan, How much heat build-up occurs in descending, say a 7% LONG grade, like Hurricane Ridge, on a single bike? My concern is having a tire blow-up. To minimize heat building up in the rims: Is it better to break intermittently hard and release versus applying a lighter constant pressure? Thank you!
#2
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Hi Jan, How much heat build-up occurs in descending, say a 7% LONG grade, like Hurricane Ridge, on a single bike? My concern is having a tire blow-up. To minimize heat building up in the rims: Is it better to break intermittently hard and release versus applying a lighter constant pressure? Thank you!
#3
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From: NW,Oregon Coast
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who is Jan? you may have wanted Bike Quarterly not here..
Do your own research if it matters.. need a thermal imaging tool or maybe even a thermometer .
real science is a cost, you got resources?
NB, you are tapping into 'FAQ', i vote that this has worked for decades : "It is better to break intermittently and release "
you can keep the speed down on the down hill and then the braking effort wont have be that hard..
Tandems have drag brakes, they used to have a big drum brake with a massive aluminum heat sink.
now the tandem bike companies offer an oversized disc for the rear so the disc has time to cool
before it gets back around to the caliper, again..
.....
Do your own research if it matters.. need a thermal imaging tool or maybe even a thermometer .
real science is a cost, you got resources?
NB, you are tapping into 'FAQ', i vote that this has worked for decades : "It is better to break intermittently and release "
you can keep the speed down on the down hill and then the braking effort wont have be that hard..
Tandems have drag brakes, they used to have a big drum brake with a massive aluminum heat sink.
now the tandem bike companies offer an oversized disc for the rear so the disc has time to cool
before it gets back around to the caliper, again..
.....
#4
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Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Impossible to answer without details, except that countless riders do descents like that and worse without issues, even on a tandem.
Here are some hints.
The first thing is to use the "air brakes".
Every bike and rider has a terminal velocity where wind drag is is equal to the effects of gravity. At terminal velocity you stop accelerating and coast at constant speed until something changes. So the best way to descend without hitting brakes is to get comfortable nearer to your terminal velocity, where the wind is doing most of the work.
Also keep in mind that wind drag is proportional to the square of wind speed, so once you reach 15mph or so it ramps up vertical quickly with small increase in speed.
....
Use the brakes intermittently to trim off some speed then let the bike accelerate back towards terminal velocity and repeat the process as needed. You can also use your body and posture to slow your bike by being more upright and raising your wind drag as much as possible.
So, once the wind becomes the main brake, and your rim brakes the auxiliary, you won't be heating the rims nearly as much.
Sadly I see so many riders dragging their brakes and heating their rims at speeds just a few miles an hour below terminal velocity where they wouldn't need their breaks at all.
Here are some hints.
The first thing is to use the "air brakes".
Every bike and rider has a terminal velocity where wind drag is is equal to the effects of gravity. At terminal velocity you stop accelerating and coast at constant speed until something changes. So the best way to descend without hitting brakes is to get comfortable nearer to your terminal velocity, where the wind is doing most of the work.
Also keep in mind that wind drag is proportional to the square of wind speed, so once you reach 15mph or so it ramps up vertical quickly with small increase in speed.
....
Use the brakes intermittently to trim off some speed then let the bike accelerate back towards terminal velocity and repeat the process as needed. You can also use your body and posture to slow your bike by being more upright and raising your wind drag as much as possible.
So, once the wind becomes the main brake, and your rim brakes the auxiliary, you won't be heating the rims nearly as much.
Sadly I see so many riders dragging their brakes and heating their rims at speeds just a few miles an hour below terminal velocity where they wouldn't need their breaks at all.
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FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
Last edited by FBinNY; 10-18-17 at 03:37 PM.
#5
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wheel rim temperature
Hi Jan, How much heat build-up occurs in descending, say a 7% LONG grade, like Hurricane Ridge, on a single bike? My concern is having a tire blow-up. To minimize heat building up in the rims: Is it better to break intermittently hard and release versus applying a lighter constant pressure? Thank you!
#6
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I blew up a rear tire once... ONCE. Holy hell it was loud and left a welt on my leg. Then I grabbed the wheel to change the tire and burned my hands. I'll never forget again.
I've heard people in the alps say they've seen steam coming from hot rims... so that's 100C... maybe a little less because altitude.
Brake on, brake off. The rims generally cool pretty fast if you give them a chance, but if you drag the whole time, you're asking for trouble.
I've heard people in the alps say they've seen steam coming from hot rims... so that's 100C... maybe a little less because altitude.
Brake on, brake off. The rims generally cool pretty fast if you give them a chance, but if you drag the whole time, you're asking for trouble.
#8
Hi Jan, How much heat build-up occurs in descending, say a 7% LONG grade, like Hurricane Ridge, on a single bike? My concern is having a tire blow-up. To minimize heat building up in the rims: Is it better to break intermittently hard and release versus applying a lighter constant pressure? Thank you!
#9
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From: England / CPH
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Here's a video of a test of what you're asking ... 2sec with Google.
edit: interesting as that's how i'd do the test exactly as well. I'd run them until they snapped.
edit: interesting as that's how i'd do the test exactly as well. I'd run them until they snapped.
Last edited by acidfast7; 10-18-17 at 03:48 PM.
#11
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Had that happen first time in Austria. After dropping the best part of a mile in altitude through a series of switchbacks I rolled through a puddle and was greeted with hisses and fizzing. Tire and tube did OK though.
#12
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I've seen that as well. Kinda cool to watch, though it cooled off (or the water trapped in the rim tape all evaporated) pretty quickly. I'd just come off a twisty ridge averaging 12-15% grade for just under a mile. You can well believe I made a point of not touching either rim for another half hour!
Oh, and no leaks from the tube.
Better to BRAKE and coast, lather, rinse, and repeat. Dragging your brakes down a long slope can heat the rim up pretty quickly. OTOH, no braking, no heat in the rim. I've come down an eight mile road coming off a ridge with up to 6% grade, and had no temperature buildup. Curves were such I barely had to brake.
#13
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From: Memphis TN area
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I was riding behind a guy who went down a short, steep hill in downtown Memphis on the bluffs (maybe 20 foot vertical drop in a couple hundred feet, 10%-ish grade?), and I'm guessing he was using the rear brake only. His inner tube exploded like a gunshot and startled everyone else riding near him. Luckily he kept it upright, and we were coming right upon the ride destination.
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Something to consider in acidfast7's video link is that the rim is a carbon rim. Carbon doesn't dissipate heat as quickly...or, perhaps, at all...as aluminum. The heat build up from braking an aluminum rim would be lower and it would cool more quickly. That will result in a smaller pressure increase.
...the temperature jumps up to about 80°C. That would be an increase in pressure to 113psi. After 15 to 20 seconds, the temperature is 100°C which gives a pressure of 120psi. It takes 30 or 40 seconds of braking to get to 120°C.Constant braking is not your friend. Punch the brakes hard, scrub speed, release the brakes, repeat as needed.
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Stuart Black
Dreamin' of Bemidji Down the Mississippi (in part)
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
#16
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From: south Puget Sound
Had you been braking steadily and constantly or did it just get hot from spinning rapidly unbraked for a long time? I don't really understand the OPs question I guess.
#17
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I don't think the pressure increase from temperature is the only thing that makes the tire blow-out, all that heat makes everything react differently.







