"Do everything" frameset for internal hub
 

Hey all - my first actual post after stalking these forums for years. So, hi!

I'd like to build a "do everything" bike for my wife, but mostly commuting (in Southern New England winters, too). After spending many hours researching, I've come to realize that the set of requirements makes for a pretty niche bike, and I don't think there are many frame options that fit the bill. So I'd like to ask all of you: any frameset recommendations that I should be looking into, but may have missed? I've covered a lot of the usual suspects that are in by budget (ideally less than $650 new for the frameset, though I'd love to find a used one). Here are those strange requirements:

• Steel
• Disc brake compatible
• Prefer no extraneous canti or DT bosses
• Horizontal-ish dropouts, since I want to install an Alfine 8spd IGH without an eccentric BB or a chain tensioner (yes, yes, many of your will recommend I spend the money on a Rohloff, I know I know)
• Derailleur hanger, in case she decides one day that she doesn't like the IGH
• Braze ons for both front a rear racks, it will eventually have a child carrier (with child, one presumes) mounted up front
• Road or CC geometry, since she likes going fast and being on her drops (this is the requirement that screws everything up - rules out cargo frames, Ogre)

Pretty much anything that fits those needs will have lots of clearance for mudguards, so those aren't separate requirements. I've looked at pretty much everything from All City, Surly, Soma, and a random selection of other frames form other manufacturers, and the leading contender right now is a Surly Straggler.

Is there anything I'm missing, or have forgotten? If I break my no chain tensioner rule and include vertical dropouts, that opens up way more possibilities - maybe a Disc Trucker? Space Horse?

Thanks a ton!

You're on the right track there, but how about a SA 8? Easier to take apart and lube and replace parts, vs almost impossible with Alfine 8 or 11, but you can take their complete guts out to dip in oil.
Have a look at the YouTube videos, the Alfine needs more than a few special tools, However, it is pointless to do so as the parts are not available anyway.
They have the same GIs, 31 to 100.
The chainring is way smaller with the SA 8, so it's easier to cover the chain. The SA 8 is all overdrive, while the Alfine has 5th as direct drive. SA cranks at SJS are OK if you like 170mm.

I used a SA 5w a few years and loved it's speed, faster than my Rohloff14. Then the shift springs went goofy. It is very easy to take apart too, just don't lose track of the tiny pawl springs. A shell tool is a good idea to have.

Cool, thanks both. I did look at the Troll, and I think that would be a good option to compete with an Ogre, but not sure my wife digs it. She really prefers drops, and I suspect it would then have too much reach. Also prefers 700c wheels for the speed.

The Sturmey Archer hub is an interesting alternative, though. I actually looked at those early on and basically found that no one used them (compared to Rohloff and Shimano), so figured there must be a reason. I guess I should reconsider!

Used one for the last ten years. Good hub. You WILL need a small tooth count chainring to get the gear range right.

Pretty much mutually exclusive.

Soma Wolverine and Surly Straggler are the closest I can think of.

Hm, ya, I like the look of the Wolverine. I had dismissed it earlier because I didn't really understand the dropouts, but I do now. Seems their 3.0 version has redesigned the droppouts, which I understand caused frame problems in much earlier models (don't quote me, might just be passing along gossip).

In head-to-heads, it seems like the Soma is a winner over the Surly, too. Too bad the latest model doesn't come in orange!

i have the Wolverine 2.0 (in orange!) never had problems with the dropouts and the frame. I am using the alfine 8 with a belt but I might switch to a 3 speed to keep it simpler and lighter.

Also don't rule out bikes just because they lack a horizontal or sliding dropout system. PF30, BB30, and other bottom bracket standards are able to take eccentrics to provide chain tension. Usually they will have enough adjustment to accommodate a belt system if you go that route, depending on the exact combo of belt, chainstay, etc.

Yeah, I was going to suggest just buy a Breezer Beltway until I saw you seem to definitely want drop bars. I don't know if they sell just frames, but you could buy a whole Breezer Beltway 8 and swap out the bars and cockpit. Or an 11+ and you've also got dynamo lighting and rack and fenders.

Did Breezer raise their prices? I seem to remember the top-end Beltway 11+ to be an absolute steal, and now at $1799 it seems more like just a fair price.

Bike Friday NWT .. Dropout swings, left one has disc mount, ISO.. 20" wheel so no TCO even smallest size..

Using Shimano Alfine hubs you can even order it as disc + belt drive, so no chain, no chain dirt..

Low bar so she can even wear dresses...

Bespoke. built to order..
http://www.crazytouring.com/images/f...ld-tourist.jpg even offered in Pink.. and shipped from Oregon , To Asia , not the other way ..

All on your list come out of Taiwan, probably built for export, in large numbers, by Maxway Ltd TW, (a very large OEM contract manufacturer)




..

I'd agree that there are few frames that do this well, and consider sturmey drum brake in place of disc for the rear. The adjustability of the horizontal drop outs really doesn't locate the disc well enough.

Hey all - thanks for all your help on this. I pulled the trigger on a Soma Wolverine 3.0. Looks sweet.

Interesting comment about the disc brake alingment, but the sliding dropouts on the Soma are also the same bits of metal that you attach the brake to, so it shouldn't be an issue. Hopefully.

Not necessarily. They can coexist.

Yeah, but it's a bit of a hack getting horizontal dropouts and disc brakes to coexist.

The Surly horizontal dropouts need to have slotted IS disc brake mounts so the disc caliper can be slid back and forth depending in the wheel position. Actually, slid and rotated.

Of you just need to tweak the chain tension, you probably don't need to readjust the disc caliper position, it's probably close enough. And on the plus side unlike with Alternator dropouts or eccentric bottom brackets, you just need deal with the wheel nuts, not the dropout or BB pinch bolts.

Do you have to loosen the caliper bolts just to remove the wheel? It looks like otherwise the disc would hit the caliper as you slid the wheel forward to get the chain off either the chainwheel or sprocket.

eta: It looks like the Surly trail bikes have the discs mounted on the other side of the seatstays and so the disc might not hit the caliper as it's slid forward.