I've got nothing against a used bike. I've been riding the same beater-commuter since I graduated college in 1992. I just came across that raleigh in my search and thought I'd share it here.

Over here, bike co-ops are also used as job training. Meaning that people wanting to enter the workforce gain valuable experience through the co-ops. Better than some nameless internet company not supporting the local community.

OK maybe, but still, 20% of the cost of the bike in the saddle.

?? I didn't read every word, but all I'm seeing is many accounts of bad packaging and dented fenders and scratched paint.

Sturmey-Archer 3-speed should be rock solid, the "heron" chainring is guaranteed the best-looking crankset to be found on a $250 bike (although one reviewer says out of round enough to create tight spots while pedaling -- that could be an anomaly). Leather saddle is a big plus, that bike looks like a great bargain to me.

We don't have any bike co-ops on the north-shore of Chicago. I'll probably just end up buying something off craigslist.

I agree. I've been searching for used bikes on CL and haven't found anything near that nice for under $250.

I'm not sure what to say except that's just sad all the way around. Not trying to be TOO negative, but not co-ops? And Craigslist where all the stolen bikes get sold :/

I doubt it's even real handmade leather.

Lab-grown then? That should be even more expensive

San Diego is also very lacking in co-ops. The only one I know of is Bikes del Pueblo, which afaik has only a shipping container for 'permanent' storage, and exists really only when it shows up at farmer's markets.

I think a cow grew it. It's "vintage leather" so probably a dairy cow and not a steak cow.

When you consider the price of beef and a bit of steel, it does look rather like Brooks has been ripping us off.

Yah I have no awareness of the leather market; how suitable is beef/dairy cattle hide for leather? what percentage of slaughtered hide is sent into the leather industry?

Looks more like pleather to me.

Is there a difference between beef and dairy cow leather?

I assume, and I emphasize ASSUME, that when a cow is slaughtered for beef they would keep the hide for leather because it has value.

Industry likes to avoid waste because it reduces profits. I would think that anything they can sell they would. (How It's Made on the Science Channel. Fascinating stuff. They show you how a manufacturing plant will find a buyer for as much of it's waste as it can to reduce costs. Sawdust from a a furniture factory, apple cores from a cider mill, you name it they'll find a use for it. )

I am pretty sure they don't keep the hide when they milk a dairy cow though.....I mean I'm not a farmer or anything....but yeah... :lol:

I would say it depends on how much stop and go you have to do in two miles. I mix up my short commute with a coasterbrake single speed every once in a while but I really hate dealing with traffic on a cruiser. For the most part I like having a disk brake at least on the back.

I had used an aluminum framed, fendered 3 speed IGH for several years rain or shine and it performed very well. I passed it down to one of my kids and picked a CL beater single speed that I wouldn't worry about if it got stolen as I would park it at the train station. It is one of those single speed "fixies" with the flip flop hub. I tried both hubs and wasn't talented enough to use it in the fixed position. Needless to say the very tall chainring really improved my riding.

I decided to stick with the look but wanted a brake so I ended up going backward and investing a little too much in the beater and got a 2 speed kick shift hub with coaster brake.

It still looks like crap but it's fun to ride and simple to operate. I like it better than the 3-speed. It just needs fenders. I am pretty sure it's not a Bridgestone but when I got it off CL, cheap and beater was the goal.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...5a66ce04cf.jpg

Thanks to everyone for their contributions to this thread. I've been obsessing about this build and finally bought some of the parts for it that I needed. I picked up a nice aluminum single speed frame from bikeisland that doesn't have too aggressive of geometry and a coaster brake wheelset from velomine that was a great deal; Shimano coaster hub laced to Sun CR18 rims. I sourced a chainguard from velo orange in polished aluminum that will compliment the other parts I'll be adding. I'll finish it off with some Shimano a530 dual spd/platform pedals for versatility in dress shoes or cleats. I think once I build it up, it will be a very light and nimble short-distance commuter. The gearing for the parts I have will be 44/18 to start, which I think should accommodate some of the minor hills on the commute. I haven't decided on handlebars yet.

I'll post pictures once I start assembly and try it out. I'm excited to see what it weighs in at when complete. I'm most looking forward to a bike I can just grab and ride in any clothing or any weather.

Oh, chain guard, sounds like a nice build. Can't wait to see pics!

with such a short commute, just get a motorized razr scooter. those things are awesome! or even a pogo-stick :)

in all seriousness tho, any bike with fenders and that you don't mind getting stolen would be my humble advice. of course i'm also building up a commuter for a similarly short ride so i've no room to talk. have fun, and post some pics!

Same here, I have a similarly short commute to take the kids to school and then off to work myself. For that kind of distance, basically any bike would do. Don't make it too complex to start off with. I've just bought myself an old rigid mountainbike in good condition and added some fenders. Rode it for a couple of weeks, then removed the bullhorn bars because a bit too bulky and mounted a flat bar, might just make a few other modifications in the near future. I'd say, let it grow on you :-)

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...e71e932db1.jpg

Single speed coaster brake commuter.

Well, here it is, just in need of some bar tape (and fenders when the rain returns) and I think it's complete. I was bummed when I tried to attach the velo orange chain guard and it was too long (ran into the frame in the back). I'm not sure what I'm going to do there, or maybe just stuff my pants in my sock and call it good.
The Shimano coaster brake has been a little finicky to get set up. It was making some awful rattling noises while coasting when I first mounted it, couldn't figure out why. Disassembled the whole thing and remounted and now it works fine. It has a little more drag than I would have hoped, but maybe it needs to get broken in a little more. Overall I'm pleased with the braking power and modulation in my limited test riding.
Also, riding clipless on a coaster isn't as bad as some have made it sound. I tend to unclip the foot that is in the upper position when stopping, and this doesn't work so well for getting started again, but it shouldn't take long to get the hang of it. I can ride on the platform side as well if needed.
I ended up throwing on the drop bars and stem I had lying around rather than buying something new. I like the way it rides and it's plenty upright for me.

Very slick -- such a clean look with the coaster brake allowing absolutely no cables and empty bars

Why not just trim the end of the guard to fit? Is it not stamped metal or plastic?

I wouldn't think it would be too hard to use the piece you trimmed off as a template to drill & remount the hardware. A hacksaw or tin-snips, a marking pen, and a drill could probably get you sorted. Maybe a file or a bit of sandpaper for dressing any sharp edges.

It's aluminum.

That came together nicely!