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Features for longer commutes
Currently commuting 15 miles each way in NYC on a '91 Schwinn Paramount. Shimano rx100's (I've heard they're the equivalent of 105's but not sure that's true) and switched to a positive angle stem. It's comfortable and fine for now but doesn't quite fit me. I'll be looking to upgrade at some point. Rather than ask which bike is best, here's my question: what features do you think are essential on a commuter doing 150M/week in 3 seasons?
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What does your commute look like? Are you able to bring the bike inside at work? Do you ride in your work clothes, or do you change once you're at work? Is this bike only for commuting, or is it a "one bike to rule them all" situation?
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Originally Posted by Darth_Firebolt
(Post 21475262)
What does your commute look like? Are you able to bring the bike inside at work? Do you ride in your work clothes, or do you change once you're at work? Is this bike only for commuting, or is it a "one bike to rule them all" situation?
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I'm also open to ground-up buildouts, so go crazy with it.
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I did about that distance on my road bike for 8-10 years, mostly pretty bare-bones setup. I'd say Lights, fenders and a rack and you're good to go.
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Once you've narrowed the field to tires with wide tires (for bad pavement), reasonably low gearing (for bridges and approaches), plenteous attachment points (for racks and fenders), and reasonably stout frames (bad roads, again), you've cut out 3/4 of the bikes in the shops. Personally, I'd go for drop bars (for windy days) mounted high (for easy traffic checking around you), and cut out 2/3 of what's left.
Then it's time to head to the bike shops and start test riding whatever they have that fits the bill. You're going to spend a lot of time on the bike, so you want it to be comfortable and fun. Once you run into one of those, buy it, ride it, and don't look back. (At least for 2-3 years!) |
Originally Posted by pdlamb
(Post 21476950)
I'd go for drop bars (for windy days) mounted high (for easy traffic checking around you)
My context is about 8 miles one way, mostly on 40-45 mph posted roads with few cross streets and about a mile of MUP. I ran for about 12 years with a flatbar aluminum hybrid before the frame cracked. I replaced it with a steel touring setup. For my commute, the touring bike is better but I notice that the slow-speed, tight handling is not near as good. I really like the bar end shifters, but they get in the way when turning tight. Also, the wider flat bars gave more leverage. One other issue I ran across is the drop bar with bar end shifters has very little real estate for lights and mirrors. I got a bar extender to solve the light problem, and I learned to use a helmet mirror. I'm glad I switched, but if I had a more urban, crowded route I'd sing a different song. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...bf7ac718c9.jpg Current steel tourer. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...77ecc9b089.jpg Previous aluminum hybrid. |
I like that co-op, looks comfy and I definitely prefer drop bars. How are you finding the build quality?
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Going all over the place with this reply, but figured it might give some help?
My commuter is a Soma Saga disc touring frame in 61cm. I chose a solid touring frame for the geometry, disc brakes, and ample mount points for fenders and racks. I had a used Trek 720 disc before this that worked OK as a transition from an old Cannondale M800 frame to which I added slick tires, a rack and fenders. The M800 was more trail than commute friendly. Managed to crack the Trek frame after three years of what I thought was gentle riding, but that’s a rant I will hold off on. Regardless, the Trek was not an ideal choice as it is not a true touring frame, but I made it work while it lasted. I really think the Saga is the end all for my commuting needs. As a plus, I could always take up touring again. Below is the current build that I used most days of the week until the Covid fun began, along with rationale for the choices. I went through a bunch of upgrades and modifications before settling on the current mix. My commute was 75% MUP, with the remainder <40mph roads, and I used to ride year round. The previously near empty MUP is now too crowded to ride with any level of safe distancing, and I work in a hospital so patient (and mine own) safety takes a back seat to my bike commute until winter. 2x11 105/Ultegra mix and STI levers — transferred from previous frame and I like brifters for road bikes Shimano XT SPD pedals — MTB cleat shoes can be walked in TRP Spyres front and rear — tried HY/RDs but found them too finicky; Spyres are solid mechanical dual sided brakes 30 degree redshift shockstop stem on uncut and well stacked steerer — I’m a tall Clyde, arthritis pain is an intermittent issue, this helps somewhat Spank flare 25 (?) road bar in widest they had — I like drops even if I spend 90% of ride on hoods, same as above, marginal difference I think? Velocity rim and hub on the rear — good solid wheels w/36 spokes for a Clyde Velocity rim and Shimano dyno hub on the front — dynamo is the way to go for any distance 40mm Schwalbe marathon hs420 tires —relatively inexpensive tires with ample flat protection SK longboard fenders — fenders a must on commutes; longboards prevent spraying B&M iq-x front and line brake plus rear — single best upgrade for commuting Ortlieb commuter bags on Ortlieb Rack 3 for QL3 bags — bags are pricey but built like tanks and hold everything but kitchen sink Revelate designs tangle frame bag — keeps essentials on bike (tubes, mini pump, co2, tools, pepper gel, chain lock that can be used for defense since I ride through some interesting areas) Garmin Edge 1030, Virb elite cam front, Cycliq fly 6 light/cam rear — cameras for safety, computer for tracking and incident detection (for the wife/widow) |
Originally Posted by maltosenegative
(Post 21477206)
I like that co-op, looks comfy and I definitely prefer drop bars. How are you finding the build quality?
Issues (at about 2 years of operation, about 10k miles): 1. Chain failed at quick link after about 2 weeks. Probably installed loose; I've had no problems with the KMC chains/quick links I've installed myself. 2. Rear brake cable is binding up. It is somewhere in the cable housing from the brake lever to the frame. It's not too bad and I'll fix it when I re-tape the handlebars. 3. Not a build issue, but I did install a longer stem to get more reach. It gave me more knee clearance on the bar end shifters and I found the bike less "twitchy" with the longer stem. I'm happy with it. Clearly you could get a build with "brifters" instead of bar-end shifters and that would have the advantage of mirror mount location and less knee-clearance issues. I lean toward simple tech. (Some Luddites probably think of me as a Luddite..) |
From Jun2017 to mid-March of this year, I did the weekly distance you're talking about on the bike shown. Now I'm working from home. The Rohloff has been excellent, very low maintenance, I use Connex 8SX chain and get lots of miles before needing replacement. The shop that set this bike up did a stellar job on bike fit, and this is one comfy bike. I got rid of the Thudbuster seatpost and put on a Thomson Masterpiece, quit using the panniers and went to a big seat bag from Rivendell. It holds my laptop and lunch well. I also run with fenders when commuting, of course.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...1c85989da.jpeg Gunnar |
I have done a similar commute (17 mi one way) on suburban streets for the past 4 years. Since it sounds like you have access to a locker and shower at work, you can be pretty minimal. I used to use a waterproof pannier, but have switched recently to bar bag + large saddle bag setup, which I find balances out my handling and gives me a lot more free speed because it’s not such an aero drag.
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I commuted 32mi RT. What others said about bikes. I would add that you should invest in proper biking specific clothes and shoes for the three seasons. It will make a lot of difference in your commuting experience.
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