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-   -   Brand and Model suggestions (https://www.bikeforums.net/commuting/1306471-brand-model-suggestions.html)

Lok Shin 04-06-25 09:50 PM


Originally Posted by ScottCommutes (Post 23482520)
In my opinion, the 1990s mountain bikes were some of the best all-around bikes ever built. I commute with one every day. The kids also all have similar bikes. Parts and service are still pretty dirt cheap and easy to get - you can even grab parts at any toy store if needed. Also easy to mount accessories like racks and studded tires. Many parts can even be modernized as you go - new wheels, better tires, sealed cartridge bottom bracket, etc. I think the only original parts left on my bike are the front derailleur and the handlebar crossbar.

If you loved the Hard Rock, there isn't a reason you can't or shouldn't stay in that space.


Agreed, an old 90's MTB is the way.

BobbyG 04-07-25 06:19 AM

Last November I replaced my 1997 Nishiki Blazer MTB with...a 1997 Specialized Rockhopper. The local bike co-op had a rebuilt one for ~$200. Very happy with it.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...8a572e25e5.jpg

steph746 05-14-25 02:06 PM

Thank you all for your replies. I still have the Onyx, but will most likely return it unfortunately. I tried to make it work out, but for some reason the gear shift is hurting my wrist. Is that strange? Even though the twist is fairly smooth, should it cause an issue like that?

Also, I do find the bike to struggle on hills. It is a commuter, but there are a couple of spots with "steepish" hills. Not sure of the incline. Could it be me that's slow? I've ridden it on my Specialized Hard Rock and don't think I was that slow on the hills...

I'm just trying to rule everything out before I proceed with the return.

I am leaning towards either putting money into my Hard Rock or purchasing a used bike that's similar and solid. Ideally I'd like it to be lighter, yet solid and as weatherproof as possible (which is what I liked about the Onyx).


acidfast7_2 05-14-25 02:27 PM


Originally Posted by steph746 (Post 23520198)
Thank you all for your replies. I still have the Onyx, but will most likely return it unfortunately. I tried to make it work out, but for some reason the gear shift is hurting my wrist. Is that strange? Even though the twist is fairly smooth, should it cause an issue like that?

Also, I do find the bike to struggle on hills. It is a commuter, but there are a couple of spots with "steepish" hills. Not sure of the incline. Could it be me that's slow? I've ridden it on my Specialized Hard Rock and don't think I was that slow on the hills...

I'm just trying to rule everything out before I proceed with the return.

I am leaning towards either putting money into my Hard Rock or purchasing a used bike that's similar and solid. Ideally I'd like it to be lighter, yet solid and as weatherproof as possible (which is what I liked about the Onyx).

put the money into the HardRock.

I find older MTB's to be excellent commuters.

Mine is from 2010 and now has 1-2 children on it, 15 years later (XT drivetrain, HAYES brakes and standard Shimano hubs.push button shifters (twist grip suck, etc...)

still is fine 15 years later and hauling around 30-35kg (65-75 lbs) on the back, so I need to inflate the rear tyre more.

interesting options in the bike lock-up tho (for comparison).

this is one of the several covered id-locker bike parking houses at work

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...479937fbc8.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...a544b7904c.jpg



steph746 05-18-25 07:10 PM


Originally Posted by BobbyG (Post 23493486)
Last November I replaced my 1997 Nishiki Blazer MTB with...a 1997 Specialized Rockhopper. The local bike co-op had a rebuilt one for ~$200. Very happy with it.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...8a572e25e5.jpg

That's pretty much what I'm hoping to do with my Hard Rock, however I think it may take a lot more than $200 to get it there and not sure now if its condition is good enough. I'm attaching a couple of pics. One of the gear cables has frayed and come off the shifter, new seat, not sure about the frame, etc. Based on the condition of my bike, do you think looking for something rebuilt like yours is a better idea?

Also, I thought I was in fairly ok shape, but I'm finding the Priority Onyx to really struggle on hills....or is it me? I'm also not a fan of the twisting shifter....

Thanks for any input/advice you might have.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...919f7fa02f.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...3b142e2421.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...48a43b3f50.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...acdcbba4a9.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...78544135f0.jpg

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...d1cae3dc48.jpg

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...95edebe546.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...0bbb83c09e.jpg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...c96b618b93.jpg

steph746 05-20-25 09:20 AM

Hi Everyone,

I'm sort of at a crossroads right now. Based on the pics of my Hard Rock "Sport", do you think it's worthwhile to put money into it and fix it up?

I do know that the Priority Onyx is a solid bike, but heavy and slow. It's also about $1200. I'm thinking something in the $500-$600 range.

Thanks again.


SoCaled 05-20-25 11:53 AM

I like that era of Specialized bikes and have had a few. Hardrock was the lowest model and yours is in rough shape, can totally be brought back, but will require quite a bit of time and effort. I would start fresh with another, higher in the line-up, late 80's early 90's mtb. You know this style/geometry works for you and it will be much cheaper (and in my opinion better) than a Priority or other new commuter. You haven't shared where you are located, but in most places these bikes are available at very reasonable prices. $200 should get you a good condition, better frame and components for sure, where I am with a little patience/looking $75. I would either try to find a bike with Thumb shifters or a frame/bike and a donor bike with Deore LX,DX or XT. There are various threads with lists of the better bikes of the time but generally want to find one of the top two models for any given brand (can vary by year) ie. Trek- 970+950, 870+850 | Specialized Stumpjumper + Rockhopper | Diamondback Apex + Arrival | Univega Alpina, etc.

For $500-$600 - you can have you pick of top of the line MTB's in great condition, likely even with shipping

steph746 05-20-25 12:26 PM

Thank you for your reply. I agree that it is old, but it did get me from A to B well. I will search for bikes in the $200-$300 range. I'm not hard set on getting another Specialized Hard Rock, but will start there. Are there other brands/models you recommend in that general price range?

Also, would you advise getting a mountain bike or more of a hybrid bike? My Hard Rock sport did originally have mountain bike tires, but I got thinner tires back in the day. Would you say even a mountain bike model would be quicker than the Priority Onyx?

I live in the Washington DC/Silver Spring, MD area. Ideally I'm looking for something that is pretty sturdy, has fenders and a rack.

Smaug1 05-20-25 02:43 PM


Originally Posted by Darth Lefty (Post 23491533)
Yes, it is definitely about skipping. It skips when it's too loose, not because the upper run is being pulled so hard - on the contrary, it's well seated. The lower run comes out of tension and that's where the skip happens. I had a belt-drive bike from Priority that started with a different non-Gates belt, with standard industrial teeth, and they sent me a Carbon Drive with the center ridge to test later on. The first one would definitely skip under hard effort, even at full tension, even though it had a snub pulley. The Gates version doesn't have a snub pulley and relies entirely on the tension, and on just being better quality. The center ridge has nothing to do with it, that is a dirt shedding feature compared to pulleys with sidewalls.

Gates know what they are doing. They make drive belts for all industries and some other things too like hoses. Not tires for whatever reason. I guarantee you don't know better than them. Their tension specs are higher for mid-drive and even higher for gearboxes because those put more and more tension on the belt.

I also found the app irritating to use. The value I got when I turned the adjusters would change entirely when I cinched down the axle. Fortunately the allowable range is broad

re. the bolded part, they certainly know better what will work best (at least in terms of belt skip) for the vast majority of the market. However, they don't know my weight or riding habits, and I do. They don't know that I'm willing to take a (slight) chance of it skipping here and there to reduce friction in the hub. If you saw how quickly the rear wheel stopped spinning on my bike with it as tight as Gates wanted it, you might see it my way.

I've not had a single skip yet in over 1360 miles on the bike, even standing on the pedals to climb hills.

dynaryder 05-20-25 04:40 PM


Originally Posted by steph746 (Post 23523213)
Thanks for any input/advice you might have.



https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...acdcbba4a9.jpg

Brake pads are backward. FYI,don't replace the pads,replace the brakes. Shimano makes entry level canti's that actually work pretty well and cost about the same as a good set of pads. And they come with new pads.

steph746 05-22-25 01:40 PM

So, I'm probably going to return the Onyx. The twist shifter is bothering my wrist and it just seems sluggish overall...

I agree that my Hard Rock Sport is not in the best shape. I did ask for a rough number and to get it back in good shape, probably looking at $300 ish.

So, I'd like to get either a used or new bike for my commute. Something solid and that can take potholes/road hazards because I've gotten a few flats...

I'm not sure where to go. Would a bike shop be the best option? Facebook marketplace seems like it can be hit or miss and who know what the true shape of the bike is? Perhaps better to check local bike shops?

Darth Lefty 05-22-25 04:40 PM

You are never going to get this specific bike looking good without a ton of parts and work. It's just so obviously clapped out. Replacement seems much more reasonable. All the functionally identical replacements are also unfortunately the same thirty years old, but maybe they didn't spend so much time out in the yard, you hope. What are you seeing right now when you look on Marketplace or Craigslist?

the key things you would be looking for are
your size
the words "chromoly" and even better, "butted" on the frame decals
silvery alloy parts (like your brake calipers) not rusty painted steel (like your handlebars / stem)
not clapped out

steph746 05-22-25 05:42 PM

Thanks for your reply. I will pursue a "new" used bike. This is a little on the higher end of the spectrum. Maybe the seller can come down on the price...

https://washingtondc.craigslist.org/...852355641.html

I'm 5'11" and I believe my inseam is about 32".

What do you think of that bike (just as an example)...

Darth Lefty 05-22-25 09:12 PM

That’s a lot more recent and is fairly premium. I’m not sure how recent but definitely more like 15 or 10 years than 30. I would guess that at your height, you would be on a large and not a medium. What size was your continuum and how well did it fit?

veganbikes 05-22-25 09:34 PM


Originally Posted by steph746 (Post 23526363)
Thanks for your reply. I will pursue a "new" used bike. This is a little on the higher end of the spectrum. Maybe the seller can come down on the price...

https://washingtondc.craigslist.org/...852355641.html

I'm 5'11" and I believe my inseam is about 32".

What do you think of that bike (just as an example)...

It seems like an OK bike the mismatched tires aren't ideal but mainly because the pictures are so bad it is hard to tell if a total cream wall in good condition or a worn out crusty tire. The fenders are probably not carbon fiber probably fine fenders but the carbon fiber is really reaching on that and seatpost could be carbon or like my old langster a carbon wrap on aluminum which to me is less desirable. Ergon grips are nice though but I wouldn't pay that much for that bike just because of that.

If you are nearby I might check it out and see if the seller is willing to go down. For that time period it wasn't a bad bike. Assuming things aren't worn out, damaged or anything like that $200 is reasonable and maybe your area can bear higher prices.

noglider 05-23-25 07:11 AM

That Trek might be too small for you. But try it out. My wife has a 7.3, and I'm impressed with it. The frame is aluminum for whatever that's worth.

dynaryder 05-23-25 11:41 AM


Originally Posted by steph746 (Post 23526363)
I'm 5'11" and I believe my inseam is about 32".

That's prolly a size small for you. Def want to sit on it and see.


Originally Posted by veganbikes (Post 23526510)
Assuming things aren't worn out, damaged or anything like that $200 is reasonable and maybe your area can bear higher prices.

Everything is expensive around DC. Also,I used to work at a shop that sold Trek. I'd take that bike over anything in their current catalog.

steph746 05-31-25 07:48 AM

Thanks again for your replies. I have a Priority Continuum Onyx in large. I can just clear the bar standing over it. A medium would probably also work for me.

I plan to return the Onyx for a few reasons. One is the twist shifter seems to affect my wrist, it's pretty heavy and seems to struggle on a couple of hills on my commute, and it's expensive and I worry about leaving it in places...

What do you all think of this bike?...

Facebook Post

steph746 05-31-25 07:52 AM

Seems like Facebook Marketplace posts don't work...here are some pics. Asking price is $280...

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...65049e66a.jpeg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...0af29bf09.jpeg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...a9dea9857.jpeg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...cc4a0b571.jpeg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...291121a54.jpeg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...4fab58639.jpeg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...1b00265af.jpeg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...e0a1fe953.jpeg

dynaryder 05-31-25 11:48 AM

I had a Fairfax,which was sort of the rigid version. They were decent bikes. Not personally a fan of non-locking suspension,but YMMV.

steph746 05-31-25 08:44 PM

I see. Looks like this bike is in pretty good shape? How do the components seem?

should I wait and maybe try to find a trek or specialized?

dynaryder 06-01-25 01:12 PM

Parts are fine,they're not pimp,they're not junk. I really don't have much brand loyalty,other than Brompton for folding bikes. I used to be into Marin because they had a 26" urban line(my Point Reyes),but then they went 29er on them(I'm a fan of 26's for the wide tires,better acceleration,and no tow overlap). Also used to be into C'dale because they were USA made,but now they're just a name(though I give them props for having a rim brake,external cable road bike series).

steph746 06-02-25 02:37 PM

The Marin sold, but I came across this one...

https://washingtondc.craigslist.org/...854557521.html

$100 seems pretty low. What do you all think?

noglider 06-02-25 03:32 PM


Originally Posted by steph746 (Post 23534201)
The Marin sold, but I came across this one...

https://washingtondc.craigslist.org/...854557521.html

$100 seems pretty low. What do you all think?

It looks good. That Marin was too small for you, wasn't it? The listing for this Specialized doesn't mention size. It looks fairly big. Make sure it fits before you buy it.

steph746 06-02-25 03:52 PM


Originally Posted by noglider (Post 23534247)
It looks good. That Marin was too small for you, wasn't it? The listing for this Specialized doesn't mention size. It looks fairly big. Make sure it fits before you buy it.

I actually didn't get to try it out. I'm about 5' 11" and the seller said he was also 5' 11".

This Specialized the seller said her husband is 5' 8". I don't know the frame size, so I'd probably have to have to check it out.

But the price though. Do you think the seller meant $1000?



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