how to properly lock my bike
08-25-05, 03:35 PM
#51
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Ya know one of my points (poorly made) was that when you start locking up in the manner I suggested it also makes it more difficult to strip parts off the bike. The whole idea is to make your steed the least attractive target (no matter it's value). The less you can easily steal the less the reward. Lastly, lets remember that persons indulging in criminal enterprises are often remarkably stupid, intelligent, capable, or not. They, like the rest of humanity, offer considerable variety.
08-25-05, 03:42 PM
#52
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I have the NY3000 and it has battle scars with the crooks! Guess who won. YUP, you guessed it. The NY3000!!
The crooks tried to cut it twice and failed. They then tried to rip the bike from the the fence it was attached and failed. They finally vandalized the bike and were actually able to cut the cable holding the seat post down but didn't bother taking the saddle! The bike is still mine!
In my opinion, the NY3000 is the best U-Lock in production. However, I don't carry it anymore because I use Lightrail and no longer bike to the station but prefer to walk. I use the lighter Kryptonite U-lock and a beater bike if I'm simply being a transportation cyclist.
If you're going to become a transportation cyclist, learn to hide the bike. Seriously. I use this technique and no longer suffer the same consequences from before. I should have done this years ago and my bike would not have suffered the punishment. Learn to hide the bike and don't even think of locking it next to $50.00 dollar rusting Huffys.
The crooks tried to cut it twice and failed. They then tried to rip the bike from the the fence it was attached and failed. They finally vandalized the bike and were actually able to cut the cable holding the seat post down but didn't bother taking the saddle! The bike is still mine!
In my opinion, the NY3000 is the best U-Lock in production. However, I don't carry it anymore because I use Lightrail and no longer bike to the station but prefer to walk. I use the lighter Kryptonite U-lock and a beater bike if I'm simply being a transportation cyclist.
If you're going to become a transportation cyclist, learn to hide the bike. Seriously. I use this technique and no longer suffer the same consequences from before. I should have done this years ago and my bike would not have suffered the punishment. Learn to hide the bike and don't even think of locking it next to $50.00 dollar rusting Huffys.
08-25-05, 09:57 PM
#53
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Originally Posted by Dahon.Steve
I have the NY3000 and it has battle scars with the crooks! Guess who won. YUP, you guessed it. The NY3000!!
The crooks tried to cut it twice and failed. They then tried to rip the bike from the the fence it was attached and failed. They finally vandalized the bike and were actually able to cut the cable holding the seat post down but didn't bother taking the saddle! The bike is still mine!
The crooks tried to cut it twice and failed. They then tried to rip the bike from the the fence it was attached and failed. They finally vandalized the bike and were actually able to cut the cable holding the seat post down but didn't bother taking the saddle! The bike is still mine!
08-28-05, 01:32 AM
#54
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Originally Posted by Yoshi
True, a modern aluminum road bike would be destroyed if you tried to use it as a lever. But think about the old steel ten speeds and beefy mountain bikes. I'm sure many of them can bust open a cheap U-Lock without being damaged.
I broke an old Kryptonite K-4 with leverage by using an 8 foot weight-lifting bar, with the lock firmly held in place by the bar of a large dumpster. Only after applying a large amount of force to this long and strong leverage arm did the lock fail. The solid bar even flexed considerably before the lock finally gave up the ghost. No bicycle frame tube I've ever seen could apply so much force and leverage without buckling, folding, failing or at least denting.
Your statement is bogus.
08-28-05, 03:53 AM
#55
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To attach numbers to this: a good U-lock withstands 5-10 tons of pulling force. That's like hanging three to six cars from the frame, putting all the weight on a 1 cm area.
08-28-05, 11:51 AM
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What about this...
If you have a larger u-lock. Remove the front wheel and pass the lock through the gap in your crank, the front wheel, the seat tube and the rear wheel then to the pole. It's a little weird at first but secures one more peice of equipment thats easy to remove and expensive.
If you have a larger u-lock. Remove the front wheel and pass the lock through the gap in your crank, the front wheel, the seat tube and the rear wheel then to the pole. It's a little weird at first but secures one more peice of equipment thats easy to remove and expensive.
