View Poll Results: How loud are your fenders?
Not a whisper from them.



80
64.52%
A little loud, but not very annoying.



32
25.81%
Loud and annoying, but I couldn't care less. They keep me clean and dry!



6
4.84%
So loud they aggravate me to the point that I want to tear them off and throw them in the garbage.



6
4.84%
Voters: 124. You may not vote on this poll
Do your fenders hang low, do they rattle to and fro...?
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 259
Likes: 0
Bikes: Trek SU200, Trek 7300 FX (Spouse's)
Do your fenders hang low, do they rattle to and fro...?
I just plopped my pair of 60mm wide SKS commuter fenders on my new bike, and they are abnoxiously loud whenever I go over bumps. I've given it about a good week to get over the sound, but I can't get over it. I can't remember whether they were loud when on my previous bike, but I didn't have them on that bike for more than a few days before I decided to sell that bike and get a new one. Now, I'm beginning to wonder whether I sold that bike because these bloody fenders pushed me over the edge of sanity.
All of the connections are as secure as they will ever get. The only thing I think might help is adding an additional connection on the rear fender, which makes the most noise. Right now there are three connections: one near the bottom bracket; one near where rim brakes would go; and one via the rods which extend from the eyelets near the axle. I could possibly place a connection halfway between the rod and brake connections, via the rear rack, but even then I anticipate it won't alleviate all the noise.
I'm curious. Since I have never heard anyone complain about their fenders making noise, is this unusual, or am I just picky? My fine tuned machine has been made to sound like a beat-up old flimsy plastic toy about to fall apart, and it drives me bananas!
All of the connections are as secure as they will ever get. The only thing I think might help is adding an additional connection on the rear fender, which makes the most noise. Right now there are three connections: one near the bottom bracket; one near where rim brakes would go; and one via the rods which extend from the eyelets near the axle. I could possibly place a connection halfway between the rod and brake connections, via the rear rack, but even then I anticipate it won't alleviate all the noise.
I'm curious. Since I have never heard anyone complain about their fenders making noise, is this unusual, or am I just picky? My fine tuned machine has been made to sound like a beat-up old flimsy plastic toy about to fall apart, and it drives me bananas!
Last edited by anonymouse99; 05-28-06 at 12:49 AM.
#2
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
It can be tricky to get those nuts on the stays down tight. I greased the threads and tightened them down but still vibration brought them loose. So I went to the blue Loc-tite, and now they're fine.
It's not like it's forbidden to take a dremel to selected parts of the fender to make them not rattle against the fork, seatstays, or chainstays either... Or alternatively, rubber tubing edging the fender where it rubs the frame. All the places where it actually fastens to the frame shouldn't be causing rattling.
It's not like it's forbidden to take a dremel to selected parts of the fender to make them not rattle against the fork, seatstays, or chainstays either... Or alternatively, rubber tubing edging the fender where it rubs the frame. All the places where it actually fastens to the frame shouldn't be causing rattling.
#3
Jet Jockey
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 4,941
Likes: 30
From: St. Paul, MN
Bikes: Cannondale CAAD9, Ritchey Breakaway Cross, Nashbar X-frame bike, Bike Friday Haul-a-Day, Surly Pugsley.
Mine constantly rattle! I have the Planet Bike full coverage Freddy Fenders. It's the metal "arm" that attaches by the rear hub...the metal is flexible, and the whole thing just bounces a bit.
#4
just turn up your ipod untill the fender noise is drowned out
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#6
Journey-man

Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 97
Likes: 0
From: Juneau, Alaska
Bikes: Custom S&S coupled cross bike and a custom S&S coupled 29er single speed
Make 'em quiet
I have had good luck using nylon zip ties to attach the fenders on my commuter and as kurtmrufa says, modify the shape as needed. On past frames I have used hard rubber washers between the front fender bracket and the fork/steerer mount. On one bike I used wads of some elastomeric putty-like stuff that came with an automotive tailight replacement lens. That stuff was amazing at dampening vibration at the attachment points, without getting squished out of a tight fitting.
#9
Senior Member

Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 12,948
Likes: 9
From: England
On my SKS fenders I use a zip tie for the chainstay bridge. Drill a tiny hole about 1cm from the tip of the fender and use a small zip tie.
The brake bolt bracket needs to grasp the fender tightly. Squeeze the metal clamp gently with some pliers.
Make sure that the stays are all set to a good length and angle and are tight.
The brake bolt bracket can be adjusted for height. If the tip of the bracket interferes with the headset lower race you can bend it out a bit.
The brake bolt bracket needs to grasp the fender tightly. Squeeze the metal clamp gently with some pliers.
Make sure that the stays are all set to a good length and angle and are tight.
The brake bolt bracket can be adjusted for height. If the tip of the bracket interferes with the headset lower race you can bend it out a bit.
#12
The only noise I ever get is when tiny pebbles are picked up by the tires and thrown around inside the fender (I have the fenders as close to my tires as possible - only few millimeters off of the rubber) before they are zipped out the front. Other than that, they stay quiet and do as they are told.
#13
DNPAIMFB
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 4,655
Likes: 0
From: Cowtown, AB
Bikes: Titus El Guapo, Misfit diSSent, Cervelo Soloist Carbon, Wabi Lightning, et al.
I'm using the ones designed for road bikes that don't go underneath the brake caliper. Everytime I go over a bump, the rear smacks against the rear brake with a "thwack" noise. I'm getting used to it.
#14
Newbie
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
From: Hull, UK
Bikes: Nigel Dean 531C/ultegra racing cycle, Merida hybrid
fenders? bloomin' Yanks. We all know they're called 'mudguards' :-)
For the record, mine don't rattle, but I do catch the front one on my toeclips from time to time. I'd rather not have them, but this is Britain after all, and the rotten weather we get, I'd say they were essential.
For the record, mine don't rattle, but I do catch the front one on my toeclips from time to time. I'd rather not have them, but this is Britain after all, and the rotten weather we get, I'd say they were essential.
#15
Life is good


Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 18,208
Likes: 14
From: Not far from the Withlacoochee Trail. 🚴🏻
Bikes: 2018 Lynskey Helix Pro
I have Planet Bike Freddy fenders and they're very quiet.
Maybe those of you with bangy clangy fenders got the "wrong" brand (SKS
) or they aren't installed correctly or they're the wrong size.
I have 700x32 tires and got the 45 mm size.
Maybe those of you with bangy clangy fenders got the "wrong" brand (SKS
) or they aren't installed correctly or they're the wrong size.I have 700x32 tires and got the 45 mm size.
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I am a cyclist. I am not the fastest or the fittest. But I will get to where I'm going with a smile on my face.
The Lord is merciful and gracious, slow to anger and abounding in steadfast love. - Psalm 103:8
I am a cyclist. I am not the fastest or the fittest. But I will get to where I'm going with a smile on my face.
#17
Thighmaster
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 193
Likes: 0
Loctite (blue) and spring washers on fittings where you don't use a nut. Nylock nuts and plain washers on all others.
If there is room on the fork and chainstay mounts (check for chain interference from the bolt head), get some longer bolts and thread them from the inside of the mounting holes so they stick outwards. Mount the fender mounts on these with washers and secure with a nylock nut. This method is a lot stronger than relying on the threads in your frame to bear the weight of a rack as well.
If there is room on the fork and chainstay mounts (check for chain interference from the bolt head), get some longer bolts and thread them from the inside of the mounting holes so they stick outwards. Mount the fender mounts on these with washers and secure with a nylock nut. This method is a lot stronger than relying on the threads in your frame to bear the weight of a rack as well.
#18
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 259
Likes: 0
Bikes: Trek SU200, Trek 7300 FX (Spouse's)
Originally Posted by radical_edward
Loctite (blue) and spring washers on fittings where you don't use a nut. Nylock nuts and plain washers on all others.
If there is room on the fork and chainstay mounts (check for chain interference from the bolt head), get some longer bolts and thread them from the inside of the mounting holes so they stick outwards. Mount the fender mounts on these with washers and secure with a nylock nut. This method is a lot stronger than relying on the threads in your frame to bear the weight of a rack as well.
If there is room on the fork and chainstay mounts (check for chain interference from the bolt head), get some longer bolts and thread them from the inside of the mounting holes so they stick outwards. Mount the fender mounts on these with washers and secure with a nylock nut. This method is a lot stronger than relying on the threads in your frame to bear the weight of a rack as well.
#19
or tarckeemoon, depending
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 7,017
Likes: 2
From: the pesto of cities
Bikes: Davidson Impulse, Merckx Titanium AX, Bruce Gordon Rock & Road, Cross Check custom build, On-One Il Pomino, Shawver Cycles cross, Zion 737, Mercian Vincitore, Brompton S1L, Charge Juicer
I'm running fenders designed for 700c wheels on a 26 inch wheeled bike. I think the extra tension helps keep them from bouncing too much. I have to tighten them down at the fork crown and brake bridge every few months though.
#20
Rides again
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 3,282
Likes: 1
From: SW. Sacramento Region, aka, down river
Bikes: Giant OCR T, Trek SC
Interesting, the 60mm fenders only use 3 mount points. The P45 use 4. Quiet. Don't know if you can go to 45mm, but that may be an option. I would suggest some bump testing off the bike and see where the noise is coming from. good luck.
#21
That darn Yankee
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 4,284
Likes: 0
From: West West Fort Worth
Bikes: Mongoose XR-100, Eros Bianchi
Where's the option of. I cycle to work but don't have fenders !
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Life is about hanging onto what you think is important and finding out what really is important.
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#22
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 259
Likes: 0
Bikes: Trek SU200, Trek 7300 FX (Spouse's)
Originally Posted by HiYoSilver
Interesting, the 60mm fenders only use 3 mount points. The P45 use 4. Quiet. Don't know if you can go to 45mm, but that may be an option. I would suggest some bump testing off the bike and see where the noise is coming from. good luck.
#23
Senior Member

Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 40,863
Likes: 3,116
From: Sacramento, California, USA
Bikes: Specialized Tarmac, Canyon Exceed, Specialized Transition, Ellsworth Roots, Ridley Excalibur
I use RaceBlades and they can rub the tire if not centered perfectly. Usually when I'm standing and sprinting; I guess the wheel and fork flex ever so slightly. Other than that, only the whirring sound of the water against the inside of the fender, er mudguard. Which is a very pleasant sound indeed.
#24
Rides again
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 3,282
Likes: 1
From: SW. Sacramento Region, aka, down river
Bikes: Giant OCR T, Trek SC
Originally Posted by tgarcia2
Interestingly, though, I have already pinpointed the source of the noise and it seems to be coming from the the last contact point on the rear fender, via the stainless steel stay from the eyelet. However, the cause of the noise is not due to anything being loose. Instead it is a slight rubbing from that contact point as it vibrates that creates noise which resonates throughout the rear fender. I think I might stuff some inner tube between the fender and the thing which holds the fender and that might dampen the sound.
#25
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 259
Likes: 0
Bikes: Trek SU200, Trek 7300 FX (Spouse's)
Holy crap! Not a sound from them now after performing a few mounting improvements. All the rattling eventually broke the flimsy rear fender mount to the upper part of the seat stay (position 2) that came included with the fender set. This break became evident from increased rattling, which might have been going on for a few days before I actually caught on.
There are three mounting positions:
1. near the bottom bracket
2. upper seat stay (location where regular rear brakes are normally situated)
3. eyelets, via thin stainless steel rods
I replaced that flimsy metal bracket at position 2 that broke with a custom mount derived from an thick solid 1.5 inch L-bracket (sawed and drilled). Since I had the wheel off (since the bolt at position 2 actually screws in from below and not from the front or back), I decided to replace a plastic spacer (cut eppendorf tube) I used to bring the fender closer to the wheel at mount position 1 with a metal one (ratchet socket bit). While I was at it, I decided to stablize the fender further by tying very tightly with monofilament fishing line a part along the fender which comes very close to one of the legs of the rear rack (with a piece of inner tube zip tied around the rear rack leg at that point). After doing all this, I was shocked at how solid the whole thing is now. There is no play in the rear fender whatsoever, and apparently all the noise before was created by the rear fender from flimsy attachments.
There are three mounting positions:
1. near the bottom bracket
2. upper seat stay (location where regular rear brakes are normally situated)
3. eyelets, via thin stainless steel rods
I replaced that flimsy metal bracket at position 2 that broke with a custom mount derived from an thick solid 1.5 inch L-bracket (sawed and drilled). Since I had the wheel off (since the bolt at position 2 actually screws in from below and not from the front or back), I decided to replace a plastic spacer (cut eppendorf tube) I used to bring the fender closer to the wheel at mount position 1 with a metal one (ratchet socket bit). While I was at it, I decided to stablize the fender further by tying very tightly with monofilament fishing line a part along the fender which comes very close to one of the legs of the rear rack (with a piece of inner tube zip tied around the rear rack leg at that point). After doing all this, I was shocked at how solid the whole thing is now. There is no play in the rear fender whatsoever, and apparently all the noise before was created by the rear fender from flimsy attachments.



