tomchagolla

Hello,
Let me start by saying thank you. I've been lurking on this board for weeks and absorbed a wealth of information. I've decided to start biking to work, 10 miles one way. I'd been looking for a bike for weeks and finally scored a 1986 Nishiki Prestige today. This is the first geared bike I've ever owned. I haven't ridden abike in about 5 years, and that was all BMX. When I test road it, it seemed to fit me well so I bought it.

Here are my questions....

When I got it home I took for a longer ride, about 3 miles I'd say, and I noticed some discomfort in my hands. It felt like maybe too much pressure? Is this soemthing I should just deal with since I haven't ridden in a while and maybe I'll just get used to it? Should I try adjusting the seat post, handle bars,or anything like that?

Also, when I got back from litlle jaunt, I noticed a spot on the rear tire that was fraying near the rim. Is this just a common thing for old tires? Do i need to be really careful how I ride these skinny road tires?

MacG

If you haven't been on a bike in a while and jump on a road bike, I would expect yur hands and wrists to complain a bit. Step back and look at the level of your seat compared to the level of the handlebars once. If the top part of the bars is a few inches below the top of the seat, you will probably be pretty uncomfortable unless you are used to that setup. Most people with bars this low are racing or otherwise riding in a manner where they are pedaling very hard most of the time, which takes weight off of the wrists. If you have low bars and are pedaling gently and coasting a lot (like someone getting back into biking after a long break will be doing), then you will feel discomfort and could even injure yourself (carpal tunnel, etc.)

For someone that will be commuting and otherwise riding at a less feverish pace, bars about level with the seat tends to be pretty comfortable. If your seat is a long ways up, you will likely encounter the problem of your stem not going up far enough to make a difference. In that case, check that your frame is really big enough for you. If the standover height leaves more than an inch or so of tube-to-crotch clearance, you will probably have a hard time getting your bars up high enough to match your seat without an extra-tall stem.

If nothing else, pick up some simple cycling gloves at a bike shop and see if that makes any difference with your hands and wrists.

Describe the fraying tire in more detail if you can (or better yet post a picture). Is this on the sidewall of the tire? 27" road tires (a dying breed) usually have a gumwall or bare fabric wall. It is okay if the tan rubber surface of the sidewall is bubbly or brittle as long as the fabric underneath is still healthy and intact. Apparently the tan rubber used on these sidewalls is damaged by the sunlight much more quickly than black rubber, so the sidewalls on older tires often look shoddy when it is just the rubber.

At the same time, if you have fraying fabric, you should be more concerned. Is there a noticeable bulge where the tube is trying to poke through? You can get brand new simplistic 27" road tires for about $10 at a lot of bike shops. If the tire looks shoddy enough to worry you, $10 is cheap insurance. Heck, go for $20 while you're at it.

While we're on the topic of advice, it would be wise to learn how to fix a flat properly and get the necessary equipment to do it. With the exception of a pump, everything you need will easily fit inside of a small seat bag or fanny pack. If you go with some kind of newfangled CO2 inflator instead of a pump, then that will fit in there too. Get a good pump, too. It may seem like a good price or nice compact model, but I promise you will have some choice words the first time you have to actually inflate a tire to 90psi with a dinky little miniature pump. I carry a Topeak mountain morph pump with me pretty much everywhere. It's not much heavier than a simple frame pump and it has a short hose built into it (to save your stems from being snapped off), a fold-out T handle, and a fold-out foot peg. It's like a miniature floor pump and works great. They go for about $30. a spare tube, a crescent wrench (if you don't have quick-release wheels), tire levers, and a patch kit will set you back another $15 to $20 and should last you quite a while.

Congrats on taking the leap into bike commuting; it may be rough initially but you will quickly fall in love with it if you're at all like the rest of us.

the beef

Stop by the ol' local bike shop (LBS) and pick up a pair of padded cycling gloves. While you're at it, just chat with the guy behind the counter and ask him for a few pointers on bike fit. He might help you improve your positioning, which affects comfort a lot.

MichaelW

If you are commuting 20 miles a day you need the best commuting tyres you can get. These will improve grip, wear, efficieny and puncture resistance.
Recomended tyres include Specialized Armadillo and Schwalbe Marathon.
If your wheel is 27" then a 1 1/8" to 1/14" size is good. For the 700c size, 28-32mm is fine.
A spare inner tube will make puncture repair a lot quicker.

Check that all the cables and brake blocks are in good order and replace if needed.

Gloves are essential, they not only protect your hands from bar vibration and discomfort, in the event of a spill they will protect your hands from a skinning. In practice they are more useful than helmets but use both .
Your commute is long but do-able. Break yourself in gently riding every other day if you like.

tomchagolla

Thanks for the replies guys, very helpful!

The bars are level with the seat, standing over the bike my stuff barely touches the top tube, cycling gloves are on my "need before commuting" list along with...
spare tube
pressure gauge
patch kit
tire levers
multi tool (i have metric wrenches and such at home) any recommendations?
Zinn And the Art of Road Bike Maintenance
Lock
Blinkies
Reflective tape
and eventually, fenders

I bought a helmet and a Topeak Harpoon Master Blaster S2 before I bought the bike.

I will try to attach some pictures I snapped this morning with my camera phone (sorry, no digi cam) of the tire. If it does not work, yes, it is a 27 x 1 1/8 with tan walls, and I don't see any part where the tube is pushing out, it's just the tan wall fraying out. Do you think I can make it the three miles to th LBS on this tire? I'd like to get some good puncture resistant tires and tubes, about how much do you think I'll be looking at spending? What do you recommend?

Thanks again for all of your help! I can't wait for my first commute. I'm keeping my fingers crossed for thursday.

Eggplant Jeff

I'd imagine it'd take you three miles, if you already went for a test ride and it held up ok. I just wouldn't commute every day on it.

I think very few people go with puncture resistant TUBES, most people get tires and/or tire liners. That being said, before even getting into this tire vs that tire, I'd suggest simply getting tires that are cheap enough you don't worry too much if you have to replace them, and try riding back and forth a few times (bring a patch kit and/or spare tubes!). See how many flats you get. Depending on your riding style (I.E. in the lane vs. shoulder) and your area (lots of construction or none) you may not need anything special in the way of tires, or you might need the toughest things you can get.

I got a pair of Panaracer Urban Max tires for like $15 each, they claim some level of puncture resistance. I haven't had a flat on 'em but I've also only ridden them to work a couple weeks. If they turn out to be really crappy, $30 wasn't a whole lot to spend on tires so I'm not too worried.

FYI on flat repair, if you have quick-releases, it's often easier to replace the tube on the side of the road and patch the flat one when you get home. If you don't have quick-releases, you may become adept at patching a tube without removing the wheel from the bike .

Banzai

Sounds like a good vertical fit. If the stem is extra long, you may be just a bit "stretched". Usually this particular fit issue is only "off" by an inch at most...but that inch can make a difference. Of course, it could also be just necessary to ride some and "toughen" the hands...I don't know. Generally it's good to ride a setup for a week before going crazy changing stuff, unless it is clearly wrong.
It's tough to tell from the pics obviously...and with any tire with known aging issues there is at least a slight risk in any distance...but you should probably make it.
700s I believe will fit those rims...but try not to quote me on that. As a previous poster said, 27" is a dying breed. Some people still make them though, which will save you the expense (at least for now) or purchasing new wheels...potentially one of the most expensive parts of a bike.

Good luck to you, and welcome to the club. That sounds like a great bike you have...those vintage Nishikis are pretty nice!

AndrewP

The 700C tires wont fit the rims but the 700 tubes are OK. Also get a spoke wrench so you can keep the wheels running true. Get a rack to carry you stuff on the bike rather than on your back. As mentioned by MacG the Topeak Morphs are great pumps.

Banzai

There you have it.

LittleBigMan

I'd replace those old tires. If they split, you'll flat your tire. If you flat your front tire while riding, don't use the front brakes or you might go down.

Since it's an older bike, have a bike shop inspect the wheels, if you have a few bucks to spare. They might need truing.

Artkansas 

Yes, the spot on the tire is what happens with old tires. The sidewall rubber cracks. Being cheap, I've ridden quite a ways with the threads showing, but be sure to check them regularly and when the threads start to break, replace the tire immediately. In general though, treat yourself to new tires now. The newer rubber will have better traction.

It sounds like your bike is not quite adjusted to you. With numb hands it's hard to know exactly what is up. Many LBS's will help you fit your bike. I recently had the same problem. I tried a number of things, but finally it was making sure that my seat was centered on the post that did the magic for me. With the saddle pushed forwards as much as possible as the last owner had it, too much pressure was on my hands. I didn't notice because otherwise the position wasn't uncomfortable.

Congratulations. I think for many cases, you can't be an old 10 speed as a commuting bike. For several decades mine was an American Eagle/Nishiki. I changed to a 15 year old Specialized Hard Rock because I moved to a different state and the crappy roads and steep hills made me decide that a mountain bike dressed for the street would be a wiser idea.

Ride On!

huhenio

The numbness is due hand positioning .... and it seems that you are putting too much pressure on the nerves

Right smack in the middle of your palm and almost where the wrist meets, there is a wedge. Use it. I do not wear padded gloves (I use mechanic gloves) and no padding.

Also, I wrap my fingers around the bar and rarely rest my hands perpendicular to the bar. It works like a champ.

tomchagolla

Thanks again everyone for the great advice.

I just got bike from the LBS, had 'em put on 2 new tires (i just went with the cheapest for now).
I also picked up a small multitool, patch kit, tube, water bottle cage, gloves and tire levers. Along with the topeak harpoon mini pump, helmet and first aid kit I already have, I think I'm ready to commute! Right?

My biggest worry is getting a flat. I have never changed/patched a tube before. Any pointers?

P.S. Now that I think of it, I can't recall any hand discomfort on this trip

huhenio

Remove front wheel, get it in front of the tv, and practice over and over.

Remember to print out some step by step or eHOW on changing a tube.

JohnBrooking

I think you are much more prepared than I was the first year! I managed to get through at least a year or maybe more without even carrying a spare tube and pump. The bike gods must have been smiling on me because I never got a flat the whole time! (Sorry to those who flatted their first time out. ) But never fear, I went through a whole series of flats last fall when my tires were wearing thin, by which time I was finally carrying spares.

But I still haven't bothered with cycling gloves, only cold-weather gloves when necessary. And I've never carried a first-aid kit. (Yeah, I know, I should probably be more prepared. I've never really been the preparing type, as you can probably tell.)

JohnBrooking

If you are the read-the-directions type, Google change bicycle tube. It's not hard, but the instructions might tell you a few things you might not otherwise think of the first time or two. Then, as huhenio said, just practice. It won't take you more than 3-4 times before you are completely comfortable. (Or if you are like me, don't worry about it until it happens; you'll figure it out when you have to! )

tomchagolla

will do. but what about the rear wheel and all those pesky gears?

nemonis

There are a couple of tricks for dealing with the gears. If you have an older 10-speed, you will have horizontal drop-outs in the back.

Before you try to remove a rear wheel, shift into the small cog in back (doesn't matter which front gear). Then release your brake and pop your quick release. At this point, the easiest way to remove the wheel is to pick up the bike and then tap the rear of the wheel with the side of your foot. It will drop right out.

To put the wheel back in, make sure you line up the wheel with the chain on the small cog (you didn't move the shift lever, did you?). One that is lined up, you can basically 'kick' the wheel back in with your foot. You need to make sure it is seated all the way into the right dropout, and then adjust it in the left dropout to make sure the wheel is straight. Also, don't forget to re-connect your brake.

Good luck and God bless!
Wayne J.

ItsJustMe

I've been running for 3 years with just a $10 multitool from whatever-mart. That said, the Topeak Alien II is sweet and I want one :-)

LittleBigMan

First, prevention is better than cure. Stay away from debris (if possible) flats might be as rare as a solar eclipse. If it does happen, don't brake on the wheel that's flatted, and brake carefully so as to maintain control, looking for a good place to pull over out of the way of traffic.

Second, like suggested above, it's good to be confident in tire-changing before you have a flat, so practice in front of the tv or radio. Here's how I do it:

1) Pry the tire with a tire tool at a spot away from the valve stem. Latch the hooked end of the tire tool around a spoke to secure it in place.
2) Pry the tire again with another tire tool at a spot near the first tire tool. The tire should come out over the wheel rim between the two tire tools. Latch the second tire tool on a spoke like before.
3) Pry the tire a third time with the third tire tool (and latch it on a spoke) so that the second tire tool is between the first and third tire tools. The middle tire tool should fall out (with practice, you can hold it with a finger so it doesn't drop, then grab it.) Repeat this process around the entire tire until it's half on and half off the rim.
4) Check carefully for the cause of the flat before removing the tube from the tire. Often, the cause can be located on the outside of the tire. If it's not clear where the cause is by inspecting the tire outside. Check for puncture entry points, tire splits that pinched the tube, or any damaged area on the outside of the tire. If you have a "pinch flat," meaning your tire was low and/or you hit a pothole hard, which pinched your tube against the rim, your tube will look like it had a snake bite when you pull it out. If you can locate the cause, the hole will be quicker to find on the tube. Also, you want to remove any object or fix any tire problem that might have caused the flat, otherwise you'll flat the new tire right away.
5) After checking for a cause on the outside of the tire, pull the flat tire out, beginning at a spot away from the valve stem, then remove the valve stem from it's hole in the rim last. If you couldn't find the cause, carefully inspect the inside of the tire for glass or other object that might have invisibly worked it's way inside the tire. You might not see it on the outside, but it can be felt or seen on the inside--careful not to cut your fingers on it. If it's glass, clean out the puncture hole totally, because glass can crumble into smaller pieces and you want to get it all out of the tire. Or it might be a tiny piece of wire that caused the flat, so small you almost won't see it, but you can feel it (these come from steel belts of car tires.) Pull the wire out with pliers. The cause might also be a spoke, rust or rough spots on the rim of the wheel. These also must be corrected.
6) If you can match the hole in the tube with the cause, good. If not, you'll have to try to pump the tire up and find the leak. If you can't find it, like in the case of slow leaks, you can hold the tube underwater and look for bubbles, then dry the tire completely before patching.
7) Patch the hole as follows: roughen the area around the hole with sandpaper or metal scrubber that comes with the patch kit. This exposes fresh rubber and makes the patch stronger. Apply rubber cement somewhat liberally on the roughened area and over the hole. Let dry completely. Peel off the back of the patch and attach the peeled-off part to the glue, being sure that the patch is completely glued down everywhere, including the edges. Press down very firmly.
8) Pump the tire to see if it will leak.
9) Let the air back out and pump again just a little, only enough so the tube takes on a round shape, but not enough to cause it to stretch.
10) Insert the tire back in. Make sure the valve is straight.
11) Without pinching the tube between the rim and the tire (the slight air pressure of the tube should help keep the tube from being pinched,) use your fingers to tuck the tire back into the rim. The last part might be a bit hard, but you should be able to use only your fingers.
12) Check between the tire and rim for any pinched tube parts. You can pull the tire away from the rim enough to see this. If all's clear, pump the tire back up.

Did I miss anything?

bennyk

Sounds like I have a wierd technique...after pumping the new tube up so that it holds its shape, I'll put that inside the tire, and place the whole deal - tire and tube - onto the rim at the stem. Then with the wheel flat in front of me, I work the tire onto the rim so that the bead of the tire that's closest to the ground is seated all the way around the rim, and the upper bead is hanging out all the way around. Then starting at the stem again, I work the upper bead in. This just seems to work better for me.

cooker

Not sure if it was said in the other posts. Always check that your tires are inflated to full psi. If they're soft, you are vulnerable to a "pinched" flat where the tube is crushed between the rim and the pavement. Usually that happens when you go over a pothole or a metal slab or some other sharp bump, and the rim makes contact with the ground. It's interesting that the tube can be damaged right through the tire, yet the tire usually is fine after this.

EDIT: I see littlebigman did address this

LittleBigMan

Whatever works. I don't claim to know the best way.