DIY HID Experience, Lessons Learned
 

Late last year, I put together a 13W HID with an Li-Ion battery that runs it for 7+ hours. I just ordered what I hope to be a switch that works.

First, I learned that the real difference between a $500 off-the-shelf complete system and a $220 DIY is about $25 (retail) in connectors. You can buy a battery and a light cheap. It's connecting them that's a pain, especially with waterproof parts.

That pbrings up the second point, connecting the parts can be a pain. I had to learn to solder (and buy a soldering gun), and my solders still aren't as solid as the off-the-shelf models. I have also made multiple trips to a local electronics store.

Third, as soon as you order something, the price will go down and a better selection will become available. Batteryspace.com (where I got my stuff), now offers a complete light system like I've been building for $250. It's only $200 with a smaller battery. (Edit: See note at end of post)

Fourth, it's better to have two smaller batteries than one big one. If I had to do it again, I'd look at buying the 4Ah pack (instead of the 7.1 Ah waterbottle battery I have), with a spare battery (perhaps this one). That way, I could just plug in the second battery when the first one runs out, and then charge the dead battery when I get home. That would cost $300, but it would never run out on me.

Fifth, fast chargers are worth it. I have a non-fast smart charger, and it can take 16 hours to fully charge the battery.

Sixth, DIY is an investment in future bike equipment. You really do learn stuff by DIY, which can save you money over your decades of riding. My solders may not be as good now, but they're getting better. And if I want to be adventurous, I should be able to connect up rear LED's to my battery. That would give me a $60 Niterider-like rear light for a fraction of the price.

Sixth, I love the light. 13w of HID is as bright as some car headlights. I also like to say, "yeah, I built that."

Correction: I said above that the complete system was just like mine. It isn't. The complete system has a 10w HID. Mine is 13w.

As a mechanical engineer, I don't have to build a bike light to say yeah I built that, I can look at 60% of the buildings in NYC and know there's something in it that I designed. So I can sleep easy knowing I saved myself time by just buying the thing. :p

I'm not saying it's not true, but if it is, that's amazing, especially considering that 60% of the buildings here were constructed before you were born. ;)

He's probably using the "ROYAL" I (or WE). Had to get used to that working with Government people; it's always OUR problem (my problem) or WE completed (I completed) ;) .

Just as guess!

Kerry

The thing I like about DIY stuff is that if it breaks, I can fix it very fast for practically nothing. Also I have no qualms about modifying the stuff I build if I think of an improvement. I'm not so fast to take a hacksaw to a commercially built unit because if I wreck it, I may not be able to fix it because I couldn't get the parts.

As an example, I built my own telescope as well, a 15" dob. I know others who have bought basically exactly the same thing, but they're terrified of making the slightest scratch on their scopes, whereas if I think of a new way to try venting the mirror box, I have no problems with breaking out a big old hole saw and opening a few new holes in the sides. Because I know that even if I screw it up completely, I can build a new mirror box for about $30 in an evening.

In general (with telescopes anyway), the people who "just buy" wind up with nicer looking stuff, and the people who DIY wind up with stuff that works better or is more practical.

Ok, I meant high rises, specifically modern commercial office buildings built within the last few years. We also retrofit and most of the stuff I design is fully backwards compatible with old hardware.

The latest one is the new ny times building in times square. 50+ stories of journalistic goodness.

You caught me, haw haw. :p

As one of 2 engineers here, I wish it were "we". But I end up doing most of the work, not that there's a lot but the people upstairs tend to wait till the last minute then they pile it on and the human waste really hits the fan.
For a while I was the only person designing hardware for a new 50 story building and new hardware to retofit most of the other commercial office buildings here until halfway thru when we hired someone else.

Boring thankless low-paying work. But I get to keep my bike indoors and walk around in tight spandex.

You can also modify the commercial product given the right tools. Then it's better looking and more functional. Most commercial products use off the shelf parts, you just have to find it and modify it to fit.

Sometimes its easier, like buying a cheap nitehawk off nashbar, ripping out the guts, and sticking a 5 watt LED in there. At least then all the options are already there. Well I guess that's DIY too.. :p

Sometimes, the difference between a $500 off-the-shelf complete system and a $220 DIY is about $25 (retail) in connectors and $100,000 worth of tooling, set up, and E&O's.

I am a DIY guy myself. There's nothing better than the smell of a hot soldering iron! I don't know what voltage your running with your light but if it's a 12-volt system you might consider the 13 LED Utility, Auxiliary, Turn Signal & Brake Lights at the bottom of the page at the following link.
http://autolumination.com/bike.htm
This provides a nice and bright taillight as well as an extra bright stoplight. It's not hard to hook a switch on a brake cable for automatic operation of the brake light and it's oh so cool! It could keep you from getting run over by a drafter as well. They have LED flasher cans so you can have a steady tail light and extra bright flashing brake light.
They have standard blinkie lights as well that wire into a 12-volt battery and blinkie lights with internal batteries. My personnel preference is to use batteries in a bag for the headlight and blinkie lights with there own batteries so if something happens to the headlight battery you still have the other blinkie lights so you can still be seen.

If you're going to wire up a taillight, I vote for the Nova BULL (surprise). They're good for up to 16V input. I run mine at just 9.6 volts and it's still scary-bright :)

If that's regulated, 16V won't make much difference, but then again at that brightness, I don't think it makes that much difference anyway. It's like, blind or blinder, pick one. :p

Hehe :D

Stay away from the back of MechBgon's bike.:)

:roflmao:

http://www.labelsourceonline.co.uk/P...7/ps1730_g.gif

Seriously, when your taillight is so bright that you can go ride in the daytime, look in your helmet mirror, and see your taillight's light reflecting off the front license plate of the car behind you... :beer: yeah. Tailgate THIS.


Also, as a public-service announcement...

http://www.safetysignco.com/g/645-93-95.gif


we now resume our regularly-scheduled thread :)

Why do you need a new switch? Were previous ones not working?

"He's probably using the "ROYAL" I (or WE). Had to get used to that working with Government people"
Yes, we do this a lot, comes from being the Department of "You People"! Don(former Govt Person)

My observation is that buying the components needed to build something in quantity one is usually more expensive than buying the thing already made. Do it because you enjoy it, or because they don't make one exactly the way you want it, not to save money.

Not at all the case for HID lights though. You can put together a perfectly good and not even ugly system for $200. Heck, $150 if you're willing to use a SLA battery, but what's the cheapest commercial HID system? $350?

It doesn't even take that much time. I don't think I put more than about 3 hours into it. I spend more time than that mowing the lawn every week in the summer.

Well like he says, it's gotta be cause you like doing it.
If you were at work, in the 3 hrs it takes to put the thing together, you've already made enough money to cover the difference and then some. It depends on if it's a hobby and how much your time is worth.

The cheapest mainstream-brand HID is probably the NiteRider Enduro. It's a helmet-mounted model that includes a 3.5-hour smartcharger. Right now it would be $240 with the 20%-off code.

On the downside, it's a 10W one, not 13W, and you'd need to get a NR bar mount to put it on the bike (unless you have one lying around, like Some People I Could Mention :D).

If you were at work, in the 3 hrs it takes to put the thing together, you've already made enough money to cover the difference and then some.

I guess that depends on how much you make. some of us arent engineers.

Neither am I, I just play one in real life.
Believe it or not, engineers don't make that much money. It's about the same as any other profession. And I get shafted on my salary every year so that doesn't help either.

I guess it also depends on how busy your life style is and what your hobbies are. I used to love designing little gadgets in my spare time but when you're doing it 10 hrs a day, all you wanna do when you get home is anything else.

I guess what I meant is if you make $240 in three hours you are making real good money. I am in the military and don't make anywhere near that. Hell after 13 years of service I only make a little over 3500 a month but the benefits are good.

I think what we were talking about wasn't the full purchase price of the light, but rather the difference in price between DIY and off-the-shelf. Which would be $240 minus $200 = $40. Divide that $40 by three hours.

Ok so the $240 is a sale price. But you see the idea :beer:

Ok i will conceede that point. Well put.