Check this out. Parts and all, it only cost $7.50. It took about 1.5 hours of measuring, cutting and cementing, but I think it turned out nicely. Let me know what you think.
(the bike is a 1987 Schwinn World Sport [27 x 1.25"])

An hour and a half and your brake cable is still like that?! Just kidding. DIY projects are the best; it looks great.

it will be interesting to hear how well it hold up.

Also what was your goal with this set-up? What do you plan to carry on it etc.

Looks good. I love DIY jobs. I think it is amazing what we can come up with when we try.

Plastic piping? I wouldn't put anything heavy on it. I splurged and bought a metal one from my LBS for $15 CDN.

https://www.mec.ca/Products/product_d...=1159849462082

You can't deny that it's loud and creaky. PVC construction is noisy.

hey if it fails you can recycle it into a plumbing project.

Heres mine:




This one is wooden. The wheel mounts need to made out of aluminum. They ripped after 1 mile.

No one likes mine

I saw a guy that made his out of milk cartons.

that's like a trojan horse....crazy

I realize that this is "just plastic tubing". It's PVC. My original goal was to pick up a "real" rack from the LBS. However, I got there 4 minutes late and they wouldn't sell me anything. So, I stopped over at Lowe's and picked up $7.00 worth of PVC that I thought would be sturdy and lightweight. The slightly thicker tubing and the cement makes the whole system quite stable. I can lift the bike using the rack with no serious flex or strain.
I'm only carrying lightweight things, such as my schoolbag and a few odds and ends from the store. I think, after having made this, I'll build something a little more heavy-duty for my "beater" bike.

For the guy who made the wooden carry-all: I love it. I think you could probably shave a little weight by chopping down the fat parts. Either way, I do like it.

The PVC rack is good as far as it goes. However, I see points to
improve for safety.

1.) Two small zip ties at front of rack are not nearly enough fastening
to keep the rack stable when loaded. This point needs to be a hard
mechanical joint that FIRMLY fastens the front of the rack to the frame
to limit side to side sway. My guess is this joint will fail first time out.

2.) the rack needs more solid fastening at the wheel mount to prevent the
rack from swaying & wallowing out the through bolt holes in the pipe. Place
a wood rod "inside" the pipe to add stiffness.

3.) load ALL heavy cargo in the very bottom of the basket to limit sway while
riding.

These points will improve a very good idea.

As far as style, I prefer the wood to the PVC... I like integrating wood into areas where other materials tend to dominate.

However, my question is about the PVC one... How about a close-up and/or description of the bottom mounting. Is it really as it looks, just a bolt through both sides of the pipe?

Also, was your motivation really not wanting to wait 12 hours for the LBS to open the next day?

All that's missing are the geraniums! I love this stuff!

That was only the start of my motivation. And, for the record, simply waiting 12 hours is not an option. My work schedule and school schedule would not allow a return trip to the store until the end of the week, if I want to be there during their operating hours.

the second part of the motivation was the fact that I made it. There is nothing more satisfying than being able to actually use something that you created.

1.) I realize that the stability of zip-ties is not ideal. Please remember that this is a rough draft of the final product. Testing will begin today, around 2:45pm.

2.)I really like the idea of supporting the hollow of the base pipes with something. I'll look into that today.

3.) As far as loading, intial tests, combined with what I will be carrying, show no weakness. Heavy stuff on the bottm; that's a no brainer.

And finally, thank you for the compliment.

For your beater bike, I say hit the electrical department next and try going nuts with the conduit. They'll usually have benders to use in store. I'm imagining two 90deg bends in the middle of the piece to form a semi-rectangular platform end that could mount to your seat stays somehow, then two 120deg or so bends where the platform ends return downward to connect to the dropout. Zip-tie a crate to the top to give it lateral rigidity and carry capacity. Whatever you do, never weld conduit, it'll poison you.

I've got a bit of a DIY project to organize my garage. I'm hanging all of my and my wife's bikes on the wall, leaving about 3 ft. open below. I'm going to mount some heavy-duty 20" shelf brackets and bolt a length of 1" conduit to the end of the bracket and cover in somthing to prevent scratching, all about 2ftoff the ground. I'll use it to hang my kids' 16" bicycles and their Big Wheels from the front wheel. I'll post pics when I get 'er done.

Why have the rack so high above the wheel? The reflector could go on the back of the rack.

I wouldn't use that in sub zero temperatures. The weight will make your vertical supports crack at the bottom bolt.

Thanks. Yeah I guess I could make it lighter, but right now its lying on the floor in the garage and I'm always busy, so yeah.

And thanks for the compliment. I like yours a lot.

TROJANS, ATTACK!!!

Whatever that means...

Thanks for the comment . I just assumed it was a comment.

Here's a sketch for the conduit idea: