Kryptonite New York U-Lock Rusted
#1
Kryptonite New York U-Lock Rusted
Hi
My Kryptonite New York (3000) U-lock is rusted on the inside locking area. So far, it has been a real pain to unlock my bike. It takes a lot of work and hassle and a lot of prying to unlock the U-Lock because of rust. Any suggestions on what should / could be done? Do I have to replace the lock?
Mainly because of commuting and the rain/snow that screwed up my Krypty lock...
My Kryptonite New York (3000) U-lock is rusted on the inside locking area. So far, it has been a real pain to unlock my bike. It takes a lot of work and hassle and a lot of prying to unlock the U-Lock because of rust. Any suggestions on what should / could be done? Do I have to replace the lock?
Mainly because of commuting and the rain/snow that screwed up my Krypty lock...
#3
Plays in traffic
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 6,971
Likes: 15
From: Rochester, NY
Bikes: 1996 Litespeed Classic, 2006 Trek Portland, 2013 Ribble Winter/Audax, 2016 Giant Talon 4
I use a "wet" chain lube, like Pedro's Syn Lube. A drop or two in the keyhole and a little bit on the... um... whatever that thing is called that slides out and latches on to the notches in the U, work it in a little (then wipe off the key) and it's just fine.
#4
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 59
Likes: 0
Elusor - like most things, your Kryptonite lock needs a little TLC to keep it working smoothly. Check out our FAQ page, maintenance section, on our brand new website for some tips.https://www.kryptonitelock.com/CustomerService/FAQ.aspx
Should help in no time.
Safe riding,
Donna
Kryptonite
Should help in no time.
Safe riding,
Donna
Kryptonite
#5
Originally Posted by tsl
I use a "wet" chain lube, like Pedro's Syn Lube. A drop or two in the keyhole and a little bit on the... um... whatever that thing is called that slides out and latches on to the notches in the U, work it in a little (then wipe off the key) and it's just fine.
but pulling the lock apart is hardest
thanks
#7
Originally Posted by slowandsteady
You can clean off the rust with phosphoric acid(Naval Jelly). Then apply some bearing grease to keep it rust free and moving freely.
...i don't have ready access to phosphoric acid, any suggestions on where to purchase this?
do i have to go to the laboratory supplies shop at the university laboratory?
or is clr enough or not enough
what molarity are we talking here?
#8
Pants are for suckaz
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,578
Likes: 1
From: Mt. Airy, MD
Bikes: Hardtail MTB, Fixed gear, and Commuter bike
i don't have ready access to phosphoric acid, any suggestions on where to purchase this?
check walmart automotive dept. should be labeled "Rust Remover" and come in a 8-10oz jar/bottle.
hope this helps.
check walmart automotive dept. should be labeled "Rust Remover" and come in a 8-10oz jar/bottle.
hope this helps.
#11
Señior Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 13,748
Likes: 10
From: Michigan
Bikes: Windsor Fens, Giant Seek 0 (2014, Alfine 8 + discs)
When I get a lock rusted up, I generally get a dry spray lube and hose down the keyhole until the stuff drips out the other side. My poison of choice right now is DuPont teflon+wax lube.
If it's badly rusted you may have to go with oil instead, since the dry lubes aren't much of a solvent and won't clean up an existing mess. I don't like oil in locks because ISTM that it'll just attract dirt.
If it's badly rusted you may have to go with oil instead, since the dry lubes aren't much of a solvent and won't clean up an existing mess. I don't like oil in locks because ISTM that it'll just attract dirt.
__________________
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#12
Faster but still slow
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 5,978
Likes: 2
From: Jersey
Bikes: Trek 830 circa 1993 and a Fuji WSD Finest 1.0 2006
Originally Posted by Elusor
cool thanks
...i don't have ready access to phosphoric acid, any suggestions on where to purchase this?
do i have to go to the laboratory supplies shop at the university laboratory?
or is clr enough or not enough
what molarity are we talking here?
...i don't have ready access to phosphoric acid, any suggestions on where to purchase this?
do i have to go to the laboratory supplies shop at the university laboratory?
or is clr enough or not enough
what molarity are we talking here?
It is called Naval Jelly in hardware stores. CLR might help, but it won't do as good a job as the Naval Jelly. Just be sure to wear gloves(not latex)!
#13
Ex-Lion Tamer
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,152
Likes: 0
From: Brooklyn, N.Y.
Bikes: 1982 Lotus Legend (steel-frame touring bike); 1982 Fuji S10S (converted to a singlespeed: 46x16); Specialized Crossroads hybrid (the child taxi).
After a three-week vacation, I returned to my locks and found one rusted shut. You think spraying some lube or WD40 into the lock will pry things open?
(My problem, by the way, is the same as Elusor's; the keyhole is fine. It's the intersection of the U and the bar where things are stuck. Naval jelly isn't a option for me until I pry the thing open.)
(My problem, by the way, is the same as Elusor's; the keyhole is fine. It's the intersection of the U and the bar where things are stuck. Naval jelly isn't a option for me until I pry the thing open.)
Last edited by Bklyn; 08-28-07 at 09:17 AM.
#14
#15
All it needs is oil, apply some to the moving parts and wiggle them around to work it back where you can't apply it directly. Even brand new locks work better after a drop of oil on the important bits. Don't go after it with acid, the rust that's binding your lock is buried where you can't get the acid, and even if it did manage to wick back into the lock and do its business, you'll never be able to get it all out. If it's frozen, apply some thin oil like 3 in 1 or Marvel Mystery oil and let it sit for a little bit so it can seep back into the crevices. Then start wiggling things around until the frozen parts start moving again. Careful leverage and creative bashing are helpful for seriously bound up things. Some people find the uttering of loosening incantations to be helpful when things get really stubborn.
#16
Banned
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 10,082
Likes: 1
After a three-week vacation, I returned to my locks and found one rusted shut. You think spraying some lube or WD40 into the lock will pry things open?
(My problem, by the way, is the same as Elusor's; the keyhole is fine. It's the intersection of the U and the bar where things are stuck. Naval jelly isn't a option for me until I pry the thing open.)
(My problem, by the way, is the same as Elusor's; the keyhole is fine. It's the intersection of the U and the bar where things are stuck. Naval jelly isn't a option for me until I pry the thing open.)
Use WD-40 as preventative maintenance.
#17
Ex-Lion Tamer
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,152
Likes: 0
From: Brooklyn, N.Y.
Bikes: 1982 Lotus Legend (steel-frame touring bike); 1982 Fuji S10S (converted to a singlespeed: 46x16); Specialized Crossroads hybrid (the child taxi).
Thanks for the suggestions. I used some 3-in-1 oil last night before going home. It still didn't work. So I let it sit overnight, and — voila! The only downside: Now I have to perform maintenance on my locks?
#18
Recumbent Evangelist
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,991
Likes: 0
From: Kitchener, Ontario
Bikes: Rebel Cycles Trike, Trek 7500FX
Same thing happened to my U-lock, only it seemed to be in the keyhole. I suppose I should have tried repairing it before buying a new one! I've still got it as a backup though, maybe a bit of oil will bring it back into service...
#19
Newbie
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
This is the same problem I was having. Thanks to all who posted replies pertinent to the u-bar being stuck. Web search ftw
#21
Subjectively Insane
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 801
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From: Saint Louis, Missouri
Bikes: '09 Rodriguez Adventurer Custom, '08 Trek 7.3Fx
Wet lube collects dust, which clumps up in the cylinders, this can break the lock.
Use a dry lube, like silicon spray at any automotive store or department store automotive section. After a few mins it's completely dry (won't collect grit) and will stop binding, also prevents rust fairly well. My Krypto U lock lock froze shut due to a little rust, it's been over a year since I sprayed it, no issues at all since then.
Use a dry lube, like silicon spray at any automotive store or department store automotive section. After a few mins it's completely dry (won't collect grit) and will stop binding, also prevents rust fairly well. My Krypto U lock lock froze shut due to a little rust, it's been over a year since I sprayed it, no issues at all since then.
#22
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 60
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Bikes: Celeste Bianchi Pista 2009 (Japan model)
Just bumping to say THANKS! I sprayed WD-40 and then dry lube into the keyhole and it didn't help. Finally I did the same thing to holes where the "U" connects to the lock, and it popped out easily.
#23
If I were to lube my U-lock, would I be better off using WD-40, or a dry lube such as this? https://www.amazon.com/Finish-Line-Bi.../dp/B002IDZXRM
And I put it in the keyhole and the other moving parts?
And I put it in the keyhole and the other moving parts?
#24
Subjectively Insane
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 801
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From: Saint Louis, Missouri
Bikes: '09 Rodriguez Adventurer Custom, '08 Trek 7.3Fx
Graphite in the keyhole, teflon spray on the other bits. Doesn't need to be bicycle specific (same goes with every other type of lube used on a bike, but that starts a debate.)
If ya have some dry chain lube laying around, use what ya got.
If ya have some dry chain lube laying around, use what ya got.






