Just to stir the pot...
#51
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Location: Michigan
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I think minimum bikes actually start in the $300 range. I have a $300 Giant hybrid, I've got it at 11,000 miles and I'm totally happy with it. I've replaced brake pads and chains as regular maintenance items, the rear derailler sprockets wore smooth at about 10,000 miles so I spent $30 on a new RD, and I had to drop $12 on a new freewheel when I let a chain go way too long once.
The only real problem is that the rear wheel that came with it was crap. I had to build a new one. But I think in large part it was falling apart because I ride 8 miles of rough gravel 5 days a week. On pavement it may have been fine. So I did spend an extra $40 building that wheel.
My wife and daughter just bought K2 hybrids from REI. They paid $299, a bit less than I did, and honestly they're better bikes. All 3 bikes are built from 6061 aluminum, the components are decent if low end, and construction and assembly is fine. The wheels on the REI bikes look better than my stock wheels, though not as good as the one I built.
I've thought about getting a newer bike, and if I ever do any tours that last more than a couple of days I might think about getting a LHT or something similar. But every time I start to get the itch for a new bike, I just ride the one I have and realize that I'm having fun already and there's just nothing about the current bike that I don't like, so I keep my money in my wallet.
I don't think it's at all true that you have to spend $600 to get a good bike.
The only real problem is that the rear wheel that came with it was crap. I had to build a new one. But I think in large part it was falling apart because I ride 8 miles of rough gravel 5 days a week. On pavement it may have been fine. So I did spend an extra $40 building that wheel.
My wife and daughter just bought K2 hybrids from REI. They paid $299, a bit less than I did, and honestly they're better bikes. All 3 bikes are built from 6061 aluminum, the components are decent if low end, and construction and assembly is fine. The wheels on the REI bikes look better than my stock wheels, though not as good as the one I built.
I've thought about getting a newer bike, and if I ever do any tours that last more than a couple of days I might think about getting a LHT or something similar. But every time I start to get the itch for a new bike, I just ride the one I have and realize that I'm having fun already and there's just nothing about the current bike that I don't like, so I keep my money in my wallet.
I don't think it's at all true that you have to spend $600 to get a good bike.
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#52
Senior Member
Originally Posted by bhtooefr
I'd like to mention something about steel, though - there's nothing wrong with a good steel frame, and in fact, for a commuter, steel may well be better than aluminum or CF. (Depends on your situation.)
I actually wish I'd known about classic steel frames before I bought my (low-end) LBS bike. I've outgrown it already - not physically, but as a rider. To the OP - buy more bike than you think you need (lighter, faster, prettier) because before you know it you will be riding at that level!
#53
cyclist/gearhead/cycli...
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: DC / Maryland suburbs
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Originally Posted by bhtooefr
I'd like to mention something about steel, though - there's nothing wrong with a good steel frame, and in fact, for a commuter, steel may well be better than aluminum or CF. (Depends on your situation.)
Steel is the most common frame material, and it's cheap and relatively to work in basic form. So it's used on the bottom-of-the-barrel throwaway bikes.
But it's also used on great, reliable, high-quality bikes. These days steel is best suited for commuter and touring bikes, where comfort, dependability, and ruggedness are more important than saving every last gram of frame weight. Steel tends to bend before it breaks, and many people find a good steel frame feels less harsh on bumpy roads compared to aluminum... for more info on engineering properties of various metals (and a whole lot of other stuff, like aerodynamics, cooling, and rolling resistance), the book "Bicycling Science" is a really great source.
#54
Luggite
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It's sad. Many people's impression of a bike is some POS bought from $hitemart. They never get to experience a real bike. Really, people should just for once in their lives buy something nice; it's not that expensive, and it can actually pay for itself if used as a car replacement. All of my bikes are LBS bikes (some second hand 20 year olds in there) and regardless of price (some were cheap), are spectacular performers. They function flawlessly. They are a joy to ride, heck I'm elated with the performance and longevity with every single one. I know I'm always going to get to point B. I actually enjoy getting on them. They are efficient. They are comfortable. They have value.
Come on people, a $hitemart bike is not anywhere the same bike as any LBS bike. Just for once in your lives buy something nice that you won't be taking to the dump in 1.5 years (1 year after it crapped out). There is no value. You're wasting your $.
Come on people, a $hitemart bike is not anywhere the same bike as any LBS bike. Just for once in your lives buy something nice that you won't be taking to the dump in 1.5 years (1 year after it crapped out). There is no value. You're wasting your $.
#55
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I know target is selling hybrid bikes now that don't look too bad for $199. They still will have some quality problems, but I don't think that they are bad for someone getting started.
#56
Cat None
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: San Diego
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The walmart bike will need more work, adjustment and tinkering to keep it running properly. This may not be something you want to deal with though especially if you don't own tools or know much about making mechanical repair/adjustments on bicycles.
I don't mind working on bikes but when I make adjustments/repairs I expect it to stay in tune for many many miles. You won't get that precision quality with a department store bike.
Then, of course, there's the weight issue to contend with. Department store bikes will weigh more (at least 5lbs+ more...maybe 10-15lbs more in some cases) than a decent quality bike from your LBS.
BTW-This is a steel frame bike:
I don't mind working on bikes but when I make adjustments/repairs I expect it to stay in tune for many many miles. You won't get that precision quality with a department store bike.
Then, of course, there's the weight issue to contend with. Department store bikes will weigh more (at least 5lbs+ more...maybe 10-15lbs more in some cases) than a decent quality bike from your LBS.
BTW-This is a steel frame bike:
Last edited by SDRider; 07-03-07 at 07:41 AM.