commuting in the rain?
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 382
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From: Nor Cal
commuting in the rain?
It's starting to rain here in the Bay Area and I've been thinking of whether I should commute to school or not. The trouble I have is not getting the bike dirty or muddy because that can be cleaned. I'm more worried about maintenance troubles and my hubs, bearings, etc. wearing out faster than I'd like.
Heres my setup that may have potential problems with rain:
Surly Cross-Check (I treated it with Frame-Saver already)
2003 Ultegra Bottom Bracket for a Triple
Ultegra Hubs with my Mavic Open Pros
Chris King No Thread Set
Sigma Wireless Computer with Cadence
Chrome Citizen bag
Ultegra Chain & FD
Deore XT RD
So aside from fenders, helmet cover, and rain clothes, what else do I need to worry about in terms of bike maintenance?
Heres my setup that may have potential problems with rain:
Surly Cross-Check (I treated it with Frame-Saver already)
2003 Ultegra Bottom Bracket for a Triple
Ultegra Hubs with my Mavic Open Pros
Chris King No Thread Set
Sigma Wireless Computer with Cadence
Chrome Citizen bag
Ultegra Chain & FD
Deore XT RD
So aside from fenders, helmet cover, and rain clothes, what else do I need to worry about in terms of bike maintenance?
#2
Cycle Dallas
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 3,776
Likes: 11
From: Land of Gar, TX
Bikes: Dulcinea--2017 Kona Rove & a few others
Chain lube. Especially right after riding in the rain and preferably before.
I think you have the other bases covered, (someone here will certainly think of something).
I think you have the other bases covered, (someone here will certainly think of something).
#3
Portland Fred
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 11,553
Likes: 54
Bikes: Custom Winter, Challenge Seiran SL, Fuji Team Pro, Cattrike Road/Velokit, РOS hybrid
Take your bike. Grime will make things wear out faster, but you still can get a lot of use out of the various components. I got over 30,000 miles out of my last set of wheels, roughly the same out of my BB, about 25,000 miles out of the cassette. Went through lots of chains and brake pads, though. We get more rain than you I think.
#4
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Nor Cal
You should. Otherwise, you will not graduate.
Take your bike. Grime will make things wear out faster, but you still can get a lot of use out of the various components. I got over 30,000 miles out of my last set of wheels, roughly the same out of my BB, about 25,000 miles out of the cassette. Went through lots of chains and brake pads, though. We get more rain than you I think.
Take your bike. Grime will make things wear out faster, but you still can get a lot of use out of the various components. I got over 30,000 miles out of my last set of wheels, roughly the same out of my BB, about 25,000 miles out of the cassette. Went through lots of chains and brake pads, though. We get more rain than you I think.
#5
Portland Fred
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 11,553
Likes: 54
Bikes: Custom Winter, Challenge Seiran SL, Fuji Team Pro, Cattrike Road/Velokit, РOS hybrid
Still, bottom line is you can get a lot of life out of your equipment. I think wiping the grime off regularly helps. That stuff acts like grinding paste.
#6
Assuming you're not fording streams or riding through volcanic ash drifts your bike should hold up just fine with maybe a bit more frequent routine maintenance.
__________________
This is Africa, 1943. War spits out its violence overhead and the sandy graveyard swallows it up. Her name is King Nine, B-25, medium bomber, Twelfth Air Force. On a hot, still morning she took off from Tunisia to bomb the southern tip of Italy. An errant piece of flak tore a hole in a wing tank and, like a wounded bird, this is where she landed, not to return on this day, or any other day.
This is Africa, 1943. War spits out its violence overhead and the sandy graveyard swallows it up. Her name is King Nine, B-25, medium bomber, Twelfth Air Force. On a hot, still morning she took off from Tunisia to bomb the southern tip of Italy. An errant piece of flak tore a hole in a wing tank and, like a wounded bird, this is where she landed, not to return on this day, or any other day.
#7
Senior Member

Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 40,863
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From: Sacramento, California, USA
Bikes: Specialized Tarmac, Canyon Exceed, Specialized Transition, Ellsworth Roots, Ridley Excalibur
Looks like you got it covered. My only suggestion is a good lube. I use Finish Line XC on my commuter during the winter.
#9
♋ ☮♂ ☭ ☯
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 7,902
Likes: 2
From: 40205 'ViLLeBiLLie
Bikes: Sngl Spd's, 70's- 80's vintage, D-tube Folder
Pam works well too...and cheap !
Spray the whole bike after cleanng and the road sploodgie doesnt stick !
Spray the whole bike after cleanng and the road sploodgie doesnt stick !
#10
Thawing Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 351
Likes: 1
From: Tampa
Bikes: Surly Long Haul Trucker, Soma ES, Vintage Bob Jackson Audax, Raleigh Frankenbike., Bianchi Eros, Bianchi Alloro.
I used to live in Florida and personally I would worry more about the dimentia addled senior citizens, and insane rednecks in cars, than the wear and tear on your bike. I vote for brightly colored rain gear, and lots of flashing lights. When you graduate, you should be able to afford a new Surly anyway.
#11
Mirror slap survivor
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,297
Likes: 0
From: Sunny Florida
Bikes: Gunnar Sport, Surly Pacer, Access MTB, Ibex Corrida, one day a Simple City
You've got it covered. Best choice you made was switching to Kool Stop Salmons. I rode in the rain a couple of times with stock Ultegra pads, and the resulting 30 minutes of cleaning black gritty crap off my wheels and tires was no fun. The Kool Stops are the best investment any rider can make. Excellent pads---and it's amazing to me that Shimano hasn't just licensed the design.
#12
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 463
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From: Woodstock, GA
Bikes: 2006 Specialized Langster Comp, 2005 Schwinn DBX Super Sport, 2004 Trek 5900 Superlight
I don't do nearly the distance some of the riders do here on this forum, but I ride just about every day rain or shine and I'd recommend repacking your ultegra hubs every six months, and that way, you shouldn't have many issues. I have much cheaper hubs on my commuter bike now and I am having to redo them every 3 months or so. I got some chrome bearings at an Ace hardware for 6 1/2 bucks which should last a year or two but I'll check the grease or repack them again in another three months. My biggest recommendation other than opening the bearing and checking for brown grease is not using any kind of high pressure water. Use something like Simple Green on the frame and drive train and use a soft spray of water to rinse it off. I do use an air compressor to blow off my components to prevent corrosion but, this probably isn't any better than using high pressure water but I check the status of my bearings often enough that I'm OK doing that. I don't use solvents on any bearings or races, I just wipe them clean with a lint-free rag and repack. It helps a lot to just rinse the bike off in the evening if it's gritty and then lubing the chain unless you're using XC or Pam
#13
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 382
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From: Nor Cal
You've got it covered. Best choice you made was switching to Kool Stop Salmons. I rode in the rain a couple of times with stock Ultegra pads, and the resulting 30 minutes of cleaning black gritty crap off my wheels and tires was no fun. The Kool Stops are the best investment any rider can make. Excellent pads---and it's amazing to me that Shimano hasn't just licensed the design.
#14
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 382
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From: Nor Cal
I didn't maintain my hubs, but they were in pretty sorry shape by the time I replaced them. Since the rims were chewed up I went ahead and got new wheels. My rear hub is XT, front is Ultegra. Mavic CXP33 rims. I did repack the BB every once in a very long while. I went through a couple sets of the salmon pads a year. Headsets last a long time too. I think I have about 20,000 miles on my current one, but I didn't get quite that much out of the last one. I have replaced the pulleys on my RD (Deore LX) a few times.
Still, bottom line is you can get a lot of life out of your equipment. I think wiping the grime off regularly helps. That stuff acts like grinding paste.
Still, bottom line is you can get a lot of life out of your equipment. I think wiping the grime off regularly helps. That stuff acts like grinding paste.
#15
I use cheap chains and cassettes on my commuter, then just replace them every year to year and half. Thats about 12,000km a year. So 75 bucks or so every year is justifiable to me.
I'm also much happier just paying $75 a year and only doing bare minimal maintenance. Semi chain cleaning every few weeks, add some new oil, thats it. Oh and I ride in rain every day in pac north west.
I'm also much happier just paying $75 a year and only doing bare minimal maintenance. Semi chain cleaning every few weeks, add some new oil, thats it. Oh and I ride in rain every day in pac north west.
#16
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 382
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From: Nor Cal
I use cheap chains and cassettes on my commuter, then just replace them every year to year and half. Thats about 12,000km a year. So 75 bucks or so every year is justifiable to me.
I'm also much happier just paying $75 a year and only doing bare minimal maintenance. Semi chain cleaning every few weeks, add some new oil, thats it. Oh and I ride in rain every day in pac north west.
I'm also much happier just paying $75 a year and only doing bare minimal maintenance. Semi chain cleaning every few weeks, add some new oil, thats it. Oh and I ride in rain every day in pac north west.
#19
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#20
Portland Fred
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 11,553
Likes: 54
Bikes: Custom Winter, Challenge Seiran SL, Fuji Team Pro, Cattrike Road/Velokit, РOS hybrid
#21
Portland Fred
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 11,553
Likes: 54
Bikes: Custom Winter, Challenge Seiran SL, Fuji Team Pro, Cattrike Road/Velokit, РOS hybrid
Yes. My cables rust which caused one of my brakes to seize the first time I wasn't paying attention. I replace them every year. Also, my brake calipers seize up (my winter bike has canti brakes) . I have to disassemble, clean, and grease things up a couple times a year, most recently this past Saturday. The other rust that appears is just cosmetic, but I remove it.
#22
Senior Member

Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 40,863
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From: Sacramento, California, USA
Bikes: Specialized Tarmac, Canyon Exceed, Specialized Transition, Ellsworth Roots, Ridley Excalibur
Good tip to keep an eye on the brakes. A quick and relatively reliable thing is to give cables and calipers a good flush with WD-40.
#23
Senior Member

Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 12,948
Likes: 9
From: England
To prep my bike for foul weather, I wax the frame using car wax and coat any exposed cable and bolt heads.
Ensure that the wheel bearings are well packed to avoid ingress of gunge.
Ensure all metal-metal contacts (seatpost, stem, threads etc) are smeared with grease to avoid seizing.
You CK headset is well sealed so dont worry about it.
I would avoid the use of WD40, it is a solvent that dissolves grease. If you have std cables, make sure the inner cable is smeared with grease, right up to the head (which can sieze to the brake/gear lever)
If you have fancy teflon cables, check first on care and feeding.
The only worry with a build that nice is security. You could get some heavier duty hack wheels for winter.
Ensure that the wheel bearings are well packed to avoid ingress of gunge.
Ensure all metal-metal contacts (seatpost, stem, threads etc) are smeared with grease to avoid seizing.
You CK headset is well sealed so dont worry about it.
I would avoid the use of WD40, it is a solvent that dissolves grease. If you have std cables, make sure the inner cable is smeared with grease, right up to the head (which can sieze to the brake/gear lever)
If you have fancy teflon cables, check first on care and feeding.
The only worry with a build that nice is security. You could get some heavier duty hack wheels for winter.
#24
Senior Member

Joined: May 2002
Posts: 10,123
Likes: 4
From: Near Portland, OR
Bikes: Three road bikes. Two track bikes.
Yes. My cables rust which caused one of my brakes to seize the first time I wasn't paying attention. I replace them every year. Also, my brake calipers seize up (my winter bike has canti brakes) . I have to disassemble, clean, and grease things up a couple times a year, most recently this past Saturday. The other rust that appears is just cosmetic, but I remove it.
If you buy good quality chains ($35 instead of $10), they will last longer too. I've been running the same campy C9 chains on two bikes for over two seasons now (though I spread the commuting miles out amongst two bikes) with no measurable chain stretch. I always keep the chain lubed with ProLink and I never run it while it is squeaking.
__________________
Cat 2 Track, Cat 3 Road.
"If you’re new enough [to racing] that you would ask such question, then i would hazard a guess that if you just made up a workout that sounded hard to do, and did it, you’d probably get faster." --the tiniest sprinter
Cat 2 Track, Cat 3 Road.
"If you’re new enough [to racing] that you would ask such question, then i would hazard a guess that if you just made up a workout that sounded hard to do, and did it, you’d probably get faster." --the tiniest sprinter
#25
Even when it rains in the Bay Area it's never a heavy rain. Grit and grime are issues and should be cleaned off at the earliest opportunity, and lube as the others have mentioned. Otherwise, go for it!
RFM
RFM




