Need recommendations for new bike
#1
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
From: Seabrook, TX
Need recommendations for new bike
I just moved, and all around my new area there are bike trails/paths. I live by a lake and there are literally miles and miles of dedicated bike paths. I am also interested in riding my bike to the park and ride (bus stop) when I work night shifts 4 nights a month, and it is about 8 miles from my home. I can wear sweats or shorts and a t-shirt to work, so attire isn't really a big issue. I am looking for a bike that I can enjoy around the neighborhood and area, as well as ride the 8 miles to the bus stop a couple of nights a month. I am kind of excited about the whole bike thing, and want to find something that will suit my needs. I would really like to stay below the 500 dollar range, so my wife won't freak out. I might have to get her a bike too, so thats why I'd like to keep the price reasonable. I have seen a couple that I like, but I would really like some input from the experienced folk. I would hate to spend 500 bucks on the wrong type of bike. I would mainly be riding on paved (streets) and pebble (jogging track) paths. Probably little or no offroad. I am 5'6 and weigh about 230 (athletic) pounds. I have been a baseball catcher for many, many years (just want to give you an idea of my build). I guess my main question to all would be, for what I am using the bike for, is it even necessary for me to purchase a 500 dollar bike to piddle around on and make the 8 mile commute a couple times a month?
Thanks, and sorry for the long first post
Adolph Postel
Thanks, and sorry for the long first post
Adolph Postel
#2
Senior Member


Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 952
Likes: 3
From: Long Beach, ca
Bikes: RadRunner Plus, Kona Dew Deluxe
8 miles one way is a ways to go on a lousy bike. It can be done, but why torture yourself?
I'm just inordinately fond of my Electra Townie, but I don't know how it handles gravel. Your wife will likely love it too.
Oh, and I weigh 190 and the Townie has no trouble with me. Also, it fits both me (5'11") and my wife (5'4") just fine due to its unusually clever design. YMMV.
I'm just inordinately fond of my Electra Townie, but I don't know how it handles gravel. Your wife will likely love it too.
Oh, and I weigh 190 and the Townie has no trouble with me. Also, it fits both me (5'11") and my wife (5'4") just fine due to its unusually clever design. YMMV.
#3
Senior Member


Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 30,225
Likes: 649
From: St Peters, Missouri
Bikes: Catrike 559 I own some others but they don't get ridden very much.
My advice for new purchasers has always been to shop for a bike shop first. Hunt around until you find a bike shop sales person who you find easy to talk with about how you plan to use the bike and who will answer all of your questions without being too pushy. Once you find the right shop, buy something they carry and you'll NEVER go wrong.
Last edited by Retro Grouch; 01-27-08 at 10:49 AM.
#4
Pants are for suckaz
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,578
Likes: 1
From: Mt. Airy, MD
Bikes: Hardtail MTB, Fixed gear, and Commuter bike
Welcome to BF.net and congratulations on deciding to join the wild world of cycling.
I would highly suggest you look at hybrid bikes. This style of bike uses the larger diameter wheels with narrow tires like a road bike but the frames have a relaxed, upright geometry and they usually have flat handlebars. Perfect for tearing up green way trails, or commuting. Hybrids are a great mix of fast and sporty but comfortable and relaxed.
Completely understandable. I think almost everyone here would agree that it is worthwhile to get a bike shop quality bike (not a department store bike). Bikes from your local bike shop probably start at around $300 for a quality entry level bike, you might be able to find some great deals on leftover 07 models right now as well.
Can you be more specific about what you saw that you liked? For the type of riding you described you can't go wrong with a hybrid. A mountain bike would work but the smaller wheels and fatter tires add rolling resistance and if you don't plan to go off road there is no benefit of having fat tires. Dropped bar road bikes are great for going really fast over longer distances, but they lack the comfort of hybrids. If you will be riding on pavement for less than about 30-40 miles at a time, hybrid bikes are the best thing going.
If you get a chance you should stop by the Clydesdale forum here at BF.net. It's a whole place for guys over 6' &/or over 200lbs to talk about the cycling issues that are specific to us well-fed cyclists. I'm 6'2" 215lbs [down from almost 270] and the guys there have been a great help to me.
I believe that spending a little more on a bike shop quality bike is worthwhile. The shop can help you find a bike to fit your specific style of riding, fit you to the bike, and offer service after the sale if things need fixed or adjusted. If you buy a $65 Wal-Mart bike, you'll be getting a poorly made bike with low-end components that was assembled by someone who may not have any knowledge of how to assemble a bike.
I'm partial to the Raleigh hybrids myself: https://www.raleighusa.com/depts.asp?deptid=7
I just purchased an 08 Raleigh Detour Deluxe and i LOVE it. Smooth and fast but comfortable.
But you should go to a couple of the bike shops in your town and see what brands they sell. Good luck, and when you get a bike it's a rule that you have to post pictures of it!
I'm partial to the Raleigh hybrids myself: https://www.raleighusa.com/depts.asp?deptid=7
I just purchased an 08 Raleigh Detour Deluxe and i LOVE it. Smooth and fast but comfortable.
But you should go to a couple of the bike shops in your town and see what brands they sell. Good luck, and when you get a bike it's a rule that you have to post pictures of it!
#5
Plays in traffic
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 6,971
Likes: 16
From: Rochester, NY
Bikes: 1996 Litespeed Classic, 2006 Trek Portland, 2013 Ribble Winter/Audax, 2016 Giant Talon 4
I too emphasize quality. I bought my first bike two years ago. I had no idea where I'd ride, how often or how far, or even if I'd like it. I set my budget at 500-600 for "the whole kit" which I defined at the time as bike, lock, helmet and a couple of blinkies.
My rationale was that I wanted something halfway decent so that I could focus on whether I liked cycling rather than whether I liked the bike. And, if it didn't work out, it would sell for more than $25. I also figured that if things did work out, it was cheap enough that "getting my money's worth" out if it wouldn't keep me from upgrading.
I bought a Giant hybrid, the Cypress DX. Every major brand has something equivalent. It's just that I could walk to the Giant dealer. Anyway, I put 3,800 miles on that bike in the first year. It was plenty good enough for a starter bike. If I hadn't decided I wanted a road bike, I'd still be riding it.
So it served its purpose perfectly. I was inexpensive enough to get me in the door, sufficiently well made that it turned me on to cycling rather than off.
There's a saying around here that, "Your first bike is supposed to teach you what you want and need in your second bike." My Giant did exactly that.
I also second the opinion that shopping around is good idea. It will seem to add to the confusion at first. That's good. It will help you sort out the people and the shops that will work best with you as time goes by.
Another saying around here is "You don't buy a bike, you buy a bike shop."
With those two sayings in mind, you can't go too far astray.
BTW, I'm now on my second bike shop and third bike.
My rationale was that I wanted something halfway decent so that I could focus on whether I liked cycling rather than whether I liked the bike. And, if it didn't work out, it would sell for more than $25. I also figured that if things did work out, it was cheap enough that "getting my money's worth" out if it wouldn't keep me from upgrading.
I bought a Giant hybrid, the Cypress DX. Every major brand has something equivalent. It's just that I could walk to the Giant dealer. Anyway, I put 3,800 miles on that bike in the first year. It was plenty good enough for a starter bike. If I hadn't decided I wanted a road bike, I'd still be riding it.
So it served its purpose perfectly. I was inexpensive enough to get me in the door, sufficiently well made that it turned me on to cycling rather than off.
There's a saying around here that, "Your first bike is supposed to teach you what you want and need in your second bike." My Giant did exactly that.
I also second the opinion that shopping around is good idea. It will seem to add to the confusion at first. That's good. It will help you sort out the people and the shops that will work best with you as time goes by.
Another saying around here is "You don't buy a bike, you buy a bike shop."
With those two sayings in mind, you can't go too far astray.
BTW, I'm now on my second bike shop and third bike.
#6
Adolph,
Go to your local bike store and ask to test ride the various kinds of bikes, even if they're out of your price range. Talk to the sales staff about the options. Hybrid, Road and Cyclocross bikes are probably what you're going to be looking at.
I agree with TSL that "Your first bike is supposed to teach you what you want and need in your second bike" with the added caveat that, if this is the case, you are better off buying a nicer bike from the get go rather than having to buy a starter and then upgrade, especially if you are an athletic person.
This goes double for people over 200 lbs. Most bike stuff is engineered to handle folks between 160-180 lbs. We larger folks need to invest more in our equipment at the front end. Trust me on this or stop by the Clydesdales/Athenas forum for confirmation. I've already seen three aluminum hybrid frames fail this season under larger riders.
What I'm trying to say is that you may want to up your budget, especially if you're going to be commuting on it every day. If your wife complains tell her that it will be cheaper in the long run.
Go to your local bike store and ask to test ride the various kinds of bikes, even if they're out of your price range. Talk to the sales staff about the options. Hybrid, Road and Cyclocross bikes are probably what you're going to be looking at.
I agree with TSL that "Your first bike is supposed to teach you what you want and need in your second bike" with the added caveat that, if this is the case, you are better off buying a nicer bike from the get go rather than having to buy a starter and then upgrade, especially if you are an athletic person.
This goes double for people over 200 lbs. Most bike stuff is engineered to handle folks between 160-180 lbs. We larger folks need to invest more in our equipment at the front end. Trust me on this or stop by the Clydesdales/Athenas forum for confirmation. I've already seen three aluminum hybrid frames fail this season under larger riders.
What I'm trying to say is that you may want to up your budget, especially if you're going to be commuting on it every day. If your wife complains tell her that it will be cheaper in the long run.
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#7
multimodal commuter
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 19,810
Likes: 597
From: NJ, NYC, LI
Bikes: 1940s Fothergill, 1959 Allegro Special, 1963? Claud Butler Olympic Sprint, Lambert 'Clubman', 1974 Fuji "the Ace", 1976 Holdsworth 650b conversion rando bike, 1983 Trek 720 tourer, 1984 Counterpoint Opus II, 1993 Basso Gap, 2010 Downtube 8h, and...
Downtube Mini. I commute on mine, 16 miles on the bike, 109 on the train (with the bike folded up), every day. It's a fun bike.
Edit, you are at the top of the weight limit for that bike, but that's probably okay since at your height you will not have to extend the seat post all the way.
Edit, you are at the top of the weight limit for that bike, but that's probably okay since at your height you will not have to extend the seat post all the way.
#8
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
From: Seabrook, TX
OK Guys, so here is where I am on my purchase. I went to my LBS and rode a Specialized Expedition Elite. Very nice and very comfy. I was a little hesitant due to the 419 dollar price, and the fact that I hadn't seen anything else in my area. I was passing by my local Sun and Ski Sports and stopped in. They were very helpful and helped me look up a bike that I liked in my size. They had plenty of my size and colors in most of the bikes that were there. I remembered last year they had a huge tent sale with literally thousands of bikes in the parking lot. I asked the manager lady that was helping me and she politely told me that if I could wait a couple of weeks I would be able to find a killer deal on a bike in the tent sale. She said to check back with her in two weeks and she would let me know exactly what day they would be starting it. So, the bike that I almost bought was an 07 Marin Coast Trail, it was a comfort bike and was on sale for 249 from 389 or so. I almost went ahead with the purchase of the matching pair for my wife and I, but the lady said I would be better off waiting for the sale, and I would probably find something with more bang for my buck. So my question to you is the models that I know they will have at the tent sale will most likely be Scott, Marin & Haro. Those are what they had the most selection of at the store, so I would imagine thats what will be in the tent sale. Of the three brands, what would you say are the pros and cons, and what should I be looking for? I am almost 100% positive that I will be buying one of these due to the great prices, and budget being a factor due to me buying probably three bikes and a baby trailer. Please chime in with your suggestions....Thank you.
#9
Hooligan
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,431
Likes: 1
From: Base of the Rocky Mountains, Canada. Wonderous things!
Bikes: 2010 Cannondale Hooligan 3
Out of Scott, Marin & Haro,
Marin in particular has a bike that I would recommend, the Novato. Its built on a mountain bike frame, but is designed around urban usage and would serve you very well. WTB SX24 rims are the same as i've got, they're fairly strong rims with eyelets and would handle you without trouble. The Novato is a bit over your budget, but they're really nice bikes for just about any non-extreme use. Much bike for the money.
if you were buying last years model at a tent sale it should be in your range
The Muirwoods is another good choice from Marin, less bike, but if it fits in your budget thats a plus. Still a very good bike, and from what I understand it would fit your needs fairly well.
I don't have any experience with Scott or Haro, and can't say anything on them, sorry.
Marin in particular has a bike that I would recommend, the Novato. Its built on a mountain bike frame, but is designed around urban usage and would serve you very well. WTB SX24 rims are the same as i've got, they're fairly strong rims with eyelets and would handle you without trouble. The Novato is a bit over your budget, but they're really nice bikes for just about any non-extreme use. Much bike for the money.
if you were buying last years model at a tent sale it should be in your range

The Muirwoods is another good choice from Marin, less bike, but if it fits in your budget thats a plus. Still a very good bike, and from what I understand it would fit your needs fairly well.
I don't have any experience with Scott or Haro, and can't say anything on them, sorry.
#10
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 2,018
Likes: 1
some folding bikes:
downtube.com
dahon.com
strida.com
xooter.com
You pay extra for the folding option so you can expect to get less of something else for the same money as a full sized bike.
Newbies often do not understand maintenance issues. Look at hubs on parktool.com.
downtube.com
dahon.com
strida.com
xooter.com
You pay extra for the folding option so you can expect to get less of something else for the same money as a full sized bike.
Newbies often do not understand maintenance issues. Look at hubs on parktool.com.
#11
I would recommend purchasing from a good, local bike shop. First, the bikes they carry are generally better quality than what you'll find at department or other non-specialist stores (better frame, components, tires, saddle, quality assurance overall). Second, you stand a better chance of having the "fit" of the bike taken into consideration with their recommendation, and "customized" when necessary (e.g. longer or shorter stem). Third, it's much more likely that your bike will be properly built and set up -- both from a mechanical perspective and the rider's "fit". Fourth -- many bike shops include a free tune-up after your first 250 miles or so.
A well-tuned bike that fits you properly will be a joy to ride for many miles and many years. An ill-fitting bike with poorly adjusted gears and brakes, cheap saddle, etc., will gather dust in your garage.
All of the above plays into the decision about purchasing a bike at a "super sale". There can be some really good deals at those types of sales. But do your research in advance -- make sure you have a list of bikes (and their associated frame sizes) that you KNOW are going to be right for you. In such an environment (ie. the tent sale), you won't get the kind of personal attention that you would going to an LBS under normal circumstances.
A well-tuned bike that fits you properly will be a joy to ride for many miles and many years. An ill-fitting bike with poorly adjusted gears and brakes, cheap saddle, etc., will gather dust in your garage.
All of the above plays into the decision about purchasing a bike at a "super sale". There can be some really good deals at those types of sales. But do your research in advance -- make sure you have a list of bikes (and their associated frame sizes) that you KNOW are going to be right for you. In such an environment (ie. the tent sale), you won't get the kind of personal attention that you would going to an LBS under normal circumstances.
#12
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
From: Seabrook, TX
good point inb. I have done just that. I have gathered information on the three bike manufacturers that the store carries. I looked up each manufacturer and the bikes each one made in the style that I am looking for. I know what frame size is right for me, and I have a short list as well as an upgraded "if the price is right" list. I am most likely going to be purchasing a Marin from everything that I have researched, the Haro offers some great bang for the buck, but I have a strong feeling that I'll be riding a Marin here shortly. I have full confidence in the Bike Shop that I'll be purchasing from, albeit, Sun and Ski Sports, they have six large stores here in Houston, and certified bike builders that put the bikes together. They do offer a warranty, as well as free tune ups for the life of the ownership of your new bike. If anything is wrong due to a manufacturer defect, they will repair or replace it for free. I dont think I can beat that along with the great price I am going to get. I am estimationg that I wouldn't be able to purchase a used bike in the area at the prices I saw at the store, much less at the tent sale.
#13
As the OP is still gathering info, and his needs seem to be pretty much about commuting, I'm moving this thread from General Cycling to Commuting. Post away!
--J, a Forum Mod
--J, a Forum Mod
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#15
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
From: Seabrook, TX
OK, we have looked and looked and looked, and I have ridden most of the options in my price range from my local bike shop. I have changed my mind about 4 times already as to which bike was right for me. I came to the conclusion that too many people were telling me different things at Sun and Ski Sports. The second time I was in there, I was being pushed to purchase a non suspension 29"er cyclocross bike. I mean I haven't even had any saddle time for the past ten years. I left, as to not spend 550 dollars on my first real bike. I went back to the other Bike Shop to show my wife the comfort bike that I knew she would like, and the salesman told me to go ahead and take a ride with her on the first bike I rode about 2 weeks ago. So we rode a pair of the 2008 Specialized Expeditions. She really enjoyed the feel and fit of the bike, and I was reminded of how comfortable riding that thing was. The components shifted very nicely (Shimano Alevio), the adjustable suspension was great, the seats were comfy, the tires were a good tread, not too slick, and not too aggressive, I can go up and down curbs easily, ride through grass, gravel, and dirt easily, and not have to worry about flatting a tire on a rock or limb in the road. I think were gonna grab a pair of these this week, and know that if I excel in the cycling world any further than a comfort bike. Like if I decide to start riding 20 plus miles at a time after a while, then I can upgrade to another faster and more sporty bike. And for the price, right at 300 bucks a piece, I couldn't find a more comfortable and enjoyable bike.
https://www.specialized.com/bc/SBCBkModel.jsp?spid=32563
Tell me what you think please.....
https://www.specialized.com/bc/SBCBkModel.jsp?spid=32563
Tell me what you think please.....
#16
One thing I don't understand is why they put suspension on these bikes. I think for this kind of use suspension parts are just added weight, cost and maintenance. But it's not only Specialized doing it. I know in my LBS the buyer has to ask specifically to be shown rigid entry-level bikes nowadays. If they have any in the showroom, that is.
But if you like the ride and the price is right, go ahead. You will probably enjoy these bikes a lot. Like you say, you can always upgrade later if you find out you like riding. Regarding the 20 plus miles rides - these bikes will go that distance easily.
--J
But if you like the ride and the price is right, go ahead. You will probably enjoy these bikes a lot. Like you say, you can always upgrade later if you find out you like riding. Regarding the 20 plus miles rides - these bikes will go that distance easily.
--J
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#17
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 2,709
Likes: 22
From: Raleigh, NC
Bikes: Downtube 8H, Surly Troll
Well it sounds like you've done your homework and picked a bike you like to ride. That's the important thing. Personally I enjoy my front suspension for the few times that I'm not on pavement, but mine has a "lockout" function for those other times that I also use quite a bit. I did a bit of shopping and riding before buying my current bike, a hybrid, and, while I like it, I have to agree that what it really has done is help inform me about what I want my next bike to be. So if you find your new bike lacking in any area, don't look at as you having made a bad choice, just file that info away so you'll have it the next time you find yourself in the market for a bike.
Also, you should read some threads in the Clydesdale forum about wheels. I'm about your weight, and that's my biggest gripe on my current bike: the rear wheel has never been quite right. It started popping spokes after a couple of months. It's been in to be trued a few times over the past year (but mostly I've taken to doing it myself since it seems like I break a spoke every few weeks), and now I'm preparing to build up a new rear tire. Some of that may have been because it wasn't properly retensioned and trued when the bike shop assembled it (but I don't know. At the time, I didn't know enough to ask if they had done anything with the wheels, but given my subsequent experiences with them, I'm guessing they did not), but some of it may just be related to the wheel/spoke quality on machine built wheels. So I would recommend reading a couple of wheel threads in the Clydes forums, asking the bike shop about retensioning and truing before you leave with the bike, and consider setting aside another $100-$200 to have a new wheel built up, especially since the existing wheel is only 32 spokes. Possibly you can get the bike shop to do an exchange on the existing tire before you buy it so that you're only paying the difference between the new and old wheel. Something hand-built with 36 spokes would be nice. I've heard mixed things about Alex rims. Mine are Alex, and I'm not happy with them, so take that for what it's worth. For the front tire, though, you may very well be able to get away with what comes on the bike (but it wouldn't hurt to price out the cost of an upgrade on that, too). The front tire generally can get away with fewer spokes and is sturdier just by virtue of its centered hub. This may be even more true on a comfort bike, where you don't lean forward as much and therefore put even less weight on the front tire, but I guess that also makes the rear tire all the more important to upgrade.
Also, you should read some threads in the Clydesdale forum about wheels. I'm about your weight, and that's my biggest gripe on my current bike: the rear wheel has never been quite right. It started popping spokes after a couple of months. It's been in to be trued a few times over the past year (but mostly I've taken to doing it myself since it seems like I break a spoke every few weeks), and now I'm preparing to build up a new rear tire. Some of that may have been because it wasn't properly retensioned and trued when the bike shop assembled it (but I don't know. At the time, I didn't know enough to ask if they had done anything with the wheels, but given my subsequent experiences with them, I'm guessing they did not), but some of it may just be related to the wheel/spoke quality on machine built wheels. So I would recommend reading a couple of wheel threads in the Clydes forums, asking the bike shop about retensioning and truing before you leave with the bike, and consider setting aside another $100-$200 to have a new wheel built up, especially since the existing wheel is only 32 spokes. Possibly you can get the bike shop to do an exchange on the existing tire before you buy it so that you're only paying the difference between the new and old wheel. Something hand-built with 36 spokes would be nice. I've heard mixed things about Alex rims. Mine are Alex, and I'm not happy with them, so take that for what it's worth. For the front tire, though, you may very well be able to get away with what comes on the bike (but it wouldn't hurt to price out the cost of an upgrade on that, too). The front tire generally can get away with fewer spokes and is sturdier just by virtue of its centered hub. This may be even more true on a comfort bike, where you don't lean forward as much and therefore put even less weight on the front tire, but I guess that also makes the rear tire all the more important to upgrade.





