supton

I've been looking at cyclo cross (CX) bikes lately, as they seem to have more clearance for fenders and wider tires. But it seems normal to buy these bikes a few sizes below what one might for a regular road bike, just like one would for a mountain bike. Would the geometry of everything else follow suit? Basically, my road bike size is about 53 or 54cm (based up on online sizing, online calculators and one fitting session); I'm looking for a bike for basically just road riding -- would a 54cm CX bike be too big, or just right? Oh, and I'm guessing, based more on reading, that I'm the type that would prefer the handlebars even with the seat--I'm not a racer, I'd probably be riding the hoods for most riding, only using the drops for going down hills.

markhr

Unless the top tube has a major slope then road sizing is a good approximation of CX sizing. You may find that the frames allow for a little more top tube clearance than normal due to the nature of the sport.

Anyhow, here are a few CX disc brake bikes that might be a good place to start.

trek portland - https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes...land/portland/

cannondale cross xr7 - https://www.cannondale.com/bikes/08/c...del-8XR7C.html

Brodie Ronin '08 - https://www.brodiebikes.com/2008/2008_bikes/ronin.php
Brodie romax '07 - https://www.brodiebikes.com/2007/2007_bikes/romax.php
brodie ronin '07 - https://www.brodiebikes.com/2007/2007_bikes/ronin.php

lemond poprad disc - https://www.lemondbikes.com/bikes/cross/poprad_disc.php

rocky mountain sherpa - https://www.bikes.com/bikes/2007/TOURING/sherpa-10.aspx

kona sutra - https://www.konaworld.com/08_sutra_w.htm

orbea diem drop disc - https://www.orbea.com/ingles/interior...ilia=6&gama=13

focus cross disc - https://www.focusbikesuk.com/focuscyc...cross_disc.php

devinci caribou2 - https://www.devinci.com/10479_an.html

raleighusa sojourn - https://www.raleighusa.com/items.asp?deptid=5&itemid=427

rei novara element - https://www.rei.com/product/744808

co-motion mazama - https://www.co-motion.com/mazama.html

rocky mountain Solo CXD - https://bikes.com/2008_preview/2008_preview.html

rotwild rs1cx - https://www.rotwild.de/en/ (street bikes section)

fixie inc. pureblood - https://www.cycles-for-heroes.com/200...pureblood.html

maxx roadmaxx custom (you choose the color and parts at the LBS and the factory puts it together, i.e., not a custom frame) - https://www.maxx.de/frmain_bikes.htm (road - roadmaxx custom)

Salsa la Cruz - https://www.salsacycles.com/laCruzComp08.html

supton

I thought the Raleigh was more of a touring bike? not that it makes a difference, as it's still something I've been looking at. I'm just not sure on the barend shifters--I have stem right now, it gets me by; but I have to wonder if I'd rather have Sora STI's than bar ends. I have my old bike in the trainer, and it just hasn't been that comfortable in the drops. Setup issue, I know.

Thanks for the list. I'll dig through those. Not sure what my price range is just yet; but almost anything new will be a step up for me.

supton

Hmm, I'm not sure on those models. I'm after what might considered an "old school" road bike: not a racing bike, but something that can take a rack, fenders, and two cages for water bottles. I'd like to do a century or two this summer, but I don't have any plans for touring, racing or real off-road riding (we do have some gravel roads around here). While I've read decent things about carbon forks taking up shock, I'd be concerned about the cost and durability versus "if I just ran a tire 2mm wider at 10 less psi?".

I've seen the BD Fantom CX, which I'm sorta leaning towards. It seems like a lot of bike for the money. I need to make some time though and hit some of the not-so-local bike shops and see what they have; but I have not seen anything used locally. Nor on Craigslist. Thankfully, it's still a couple of months to go to the riding season, so I'm doing all the reading I can.

markhr

The list is just where I'd start as I refuse to use rim brakes anymore.

Well good luck with your selection. You could also do a quick search for lemond poprad and trek portland bikes - there are a number of BF members using them with full racks and mudguards as daily commuters.

supton

No, I appreciate it: I'm at the begining of this search, not sure what I really want. More reading and hopefully some test rides before long.

Jaeger

It depends on the manufacturer, but most cross bikes will have a slightly higher bottom bracket for additional ground clearance. This means the seat tube will be a little shorter, but you should be looking for a top tube length that is very similar to your road bike.

climbhoser

I like the Surly Crosscheck, FWIW.

As for sizing, I think the same sized bikes will differ in a couple of ways. First, the BB is higher, which doesn't necessarily mean a shorter seat tube. Think about the fact that you can reach the pedals on a given crank length only at a certain distance from them! So, a 55 C-C ST measurement will be the same regardless of how high the BB is.

Second, Cross bikes of the same size as a road bike (ST measurement) typically have shorter top tubes and, of course, less steep angles on the ST and HT. I prefer a 'cross bike for all of my riding because I can get one that feels right in terms of leg reach, but keeps me closer to my bars for a given stem length (I have short arms for my height).

The height of the bars relative to the seat is changeable with spacers. Also, if you're between sizes getting a larger size can ensure the bars are a touch higher relative to where you'd put your seat. Of course, this inevitably lengthens the top tube, too, so you either live with it or get a shorter stem!

I'm more of a get the smaller size guy, and just use spacers. I actually like my bars just a touch below saddle level, so it's no big deal, but I do want my bars closer to me. I don't like reaching!

Hope that helps.

supton

For a bike with 700c wheels and a spec of 80mm BB drop, that means the BB is (350-80)=270mm high, right? Give or take a few mm that is.

Thanks for the heads up. I'm going to make a chart of the bike sizes that I think fit me (52, 53, 54 and 55--some models are only 53/55, others are 52/54--and I'm pretty sure I'm 53/54 area). And componetry.

Jaeger

True enough, but with a higher bottom bracket and the same length seat tube you'll have higher standover height (assuming a horizontal top tube), which may cause the bike not to fit. I don't consider standover height very important for road or touring bikes, but for bikes that go off road I think you do want to be able to stand over them with reasonable room to spare. For me this means a smaller frame size on a cross bike, but that may not be true for other riders.

c_m_shooter

Dude, get a Cross Check. I have one and it's great it has clearance for up to a 50mm tire up front and a 45mm in the back. Has braze ons for cages, fenders, and racks. I have front and rear racks on mine right now getting ready for a tour, and the stock gearing is low enough that I don't need a triple
(36/46).When you compare sizes of bikes you mostly just need to go by the top tube length.

supton

At the moment, I'm looking at three bikes: BD Fantom CX (the cheap one), Raleigh Sojourn, and possibly the Cross Check. At least for today, that is. I'm not going to race, but rather enjoy riding them. Not commuting either, so how they go in snow or hail doesn't matter; but I do want fenders or the ability to pop 'em on in case I ride after it rains or it's a slow drizzle. [Maybe in another year or two I could commute, but only if I move closer to work.]

The Cross Check sounds interesting; I'm not sure on the price, bar end shifters, saddle, and if I'm willing to give up the granny. Triples sound more inline with my ability; but perhaps I can build enough strength that a 36 will work for all but the biggest hills/most tired legs--that's why I'm not ruling out a compact. But I do have plenty of hills around here, and like I said, I'm in lousy shape.

The Raleigh sounds interesting; I'm not sure on the price but it does come with rack, fenders and a Brooks. Again, the bar end shifters; although, it seems more fitting on this type of bike (a touring machine). The weight seems up there too. But it does come with disc brakes, which might be nice--I rode my old MTB in the slush last weekend, and it'd take oh 20' or more for the brakes to dry out so it could *start* to stop. Good thing it's a slow bike! Anyhow, it represents a nice, slow rider that I could probably ride for hours -- while a more proper CX bike should be faster (or feel faster anyhow).

The Fantom is simply the low guy on the list. It's cheap, and basically represents the lowest cost investment in order to go new. It has its own issues, most of which are covered by cost. It'd be what I'd ride for a year or two, then decide if I want something different. Or I'd ride it until I found something different, and then it'd stay on as a bad weather rider, or a loaner bike or ___.

In some ways, I just want to buy something. My problem is that, either I put some money into my Panasonic, or into my Schwinn World Sport, both of which are mid 80's riders with old school everything; or I get something else. Those two bikes need stuff practically now (new chain and fenders at the least, and a new stem as neither can go as high as I want, oh and a new saddle too); I'd hate to spend money on those only to figure out that I still wanted something else.

jz19

You are correct that you need to go down in size. If it help I fit a 59 road bike and ride a 57 cross bike. I guess this could be different for some odd brand based on geometry but as a general rule you need to go down one size.

knobster

Post this over in the cross forum. I bet you get a lot of great responses.

Cychologist

I commute with a Trek XO1. It's a 56, just like my Pilot 5.9 road bike. Very similar in geometry. I like it.

supton

Maybe I will ask again over there. I'm not actually looking to ride this off road; rather, cross bikes seem to have generous clearance for tires--which means they can take racks and fenders well. Plus, they are less likely to come with "spindly" components. I'm not looking to abuse my bike mind you: but I suspect high end parts would be just lost on me.

mandovoodoo

I tend to approach things from the other direction. Figure out where you're putting the seat relative to the bottom bracket. Pick your bars (e.g., trekking). Figure out how far away from the seat and how high. Then figure out where the front wheel would like to be relative to the bars. Now back into the geometry range that will work. Then look at bikes. For bullhorn bars sweeping forward one geometry might be best, while for trekking bars a longer TT might be best. There isn't one optimal fit without considering the other aspects and influences.

supton

I hadn't thought of that--I've been figuring on using the bars that come with the bike. And probably figure out how to get either the drops or the hoods where it's comfortable, which ever one winds up more comfortable.

When it comes to bars, all I know is that the 39cm ones I have are too narrow--and that's about it. I do also know that in my current setup, the drops are not usefull--I get numbness from the saddle when in the drops, saddle is level and the stem is above the max line. And the drops aren't very comfortable on the hands either--all the weight winds up on the side of the palm opposite my thumb.