I have a cable that goes through the rails on my Brooks saddles.

Here's another option (link provided on the Bryce Fasteners site): https://www.mcmaster.com/#tamper-resi...screws/=8dpkw7

I still don't see a metric option with the security fasteners. I could replace the metric nut that is designed for the saddle attachment hardware but it would be jerry rigged and the nut wouldn't be secure. The existing nut is secure due to the way it insets into the hardware. The European fastener companies are also saying I need to buy bulk.

I really don't see the cable being any better than the bike chain option. The cable is easily cut and locking it creates some bulk. I tend to think that a bike chain is not as easily cut. However, anyone with a chain breaking tool can open it.

I don't really like the glue idea. It seems awkward to figure out how to soak the bolt to remove especially when it is attached to a leather saddle that could be damaged by the acetone.

I experimented with solder yesterday: that is, putting solder in the hex hole of the socket head bolt. It does seem to work -- well, kind-of. The solder melts into it okay. However, the solder doesn't remelt for removal. I think the heat is dispersing through the steel bolt and not remelting the solder. Once the bolt and solder was heated, the solder came out in solid form. I think this is because steel expands more than solder under heat.

I'm in San Francisco so I need to do my best. I thinking about duel deterrents: solder in the bolt head and chain.

I did this in the past, it was easier with cartridge BBs, goto the hardware store and buy a length of steel cable. Many seatposts have a hole near the top where the clamp is, if not drill a hole large enough for the cable to pass through, loop one end of the wire around the seat rail and secure with a crimp on holder. pass the cable through the seatpost and down the seat tube and out through the bottom bracket (you need to remove the BB). Set your seat height, make a second loop at the other end of the cable around your BB or in the case of an outboard bearing crank, make a loop large enough to allow the shaft of the crank to pass through. Reinstall your BB or crank with the cable looped around the BB or spindle. You can leave your quick release in place to allow you to lower your saddle, but you cannot remove the seatpost/seat without taking the BB out first.

I use solder and it works fine. Use an actual soldering gun (also known as soldering iron). Google how to properly use solder. It is quite simple. Solder, soldering guns, and solder 'wicking' are all available at hardware stores and are very inexpensive.

The 'solder wicking' is a product specifically designed to soak up the solder after it is heated.

When done properly, there is no damage to the bike or bolts, and solder removal is easy with the right equipment (gun, wicking). I have done this to all my bikes that I have adjusted how I want them. Turn the bike upside down, or on its side to get at the allen bolt that is used to adjust the seat on its rails.

Best option out there, in my opinion.

~D

Ok a different thought .. kind of like #29..
use a hollow tube seatpost, run a cable loop out of the top of the seat post around the seat rails and back into the seat post , then run the 2 lengths of cable down the seat post tube,
and perhaps fix them to a stopper in the end of the seat post..

Or,with the other end secured in a plug that with enough cable length, slides down past the water bottle braze ons,
inside the seat tube , then you can fit a longer bolt in the bottle cage, to keep it from pulling back out out. ..

that should baffle most people with only enough brain power to think of quick grabs.

there are security allen bolts which in the center of the hex socket there is a pin it keeps the common wrench
from going in .. the hex key that goes with it has a matching hole in it's end.

that tamper proof site lacks allen capscrews.. I note. just metric button and flathead.

I use the Bladder bag out of a 5Liter Vin Ordinaire box as my winter saddle cover..

it, not only keeps the seat dry, it makes a saddle seem pretty ordinary too.

It's nice to know there are lots of options available for securing seasts, but where do you guys live that there's such a problem with seat theft? Is there some big market for seats? Do they bring a lot of cash at a pawn shop? I don't recall ever seeing a seatless bike anywhere? Seriously, what's the motivation for stealing a seat?

Use the quick release to quickly release the seat post and take it with you.

and if it rains the seat tube will be a funnel to fill the frame up with water..

Now that Brooks leather saddles are posh many(unscrupulous , addicts?) target them .

Where are these seat thefts happening? Big cities? Inner city? College campuses? I still don't understand. I ride a Brooks B67 and never seen any sign that it's been tampered with in Sugar Land and SE Houston.

Did anyone say Locktite (red level). I just had to grind off some 1/2 bolts due to this stuff.

My thoughts were a) bike chain in an inner tube b) security screws or c) locktite. Other option is to just take your seat with you like you would your computer if you're really concerned about theft. Out of sight, out of mind. Just be sure to cork the seat tube if there's a possibility you'd get water down it.

this seems easy

There used to be an antitheft device just like that. It fit inside the bottom of the seatpost, had a cable to a plug that dropped down the seat tube, and even came with a longer-than-normal bolt to keep the plug in place. Not difficult to remove, but would certainly take a thief by surprise.

I think I originally started this thread. I soldered and used a bike chain. Within about a week the bike chain was gone and someone tried to unscrew the soldered bolts. The solder worked. I still have my seat. I'm not going to reattach the bike chain. Too many would-be theives carry around chain breakers, I guess. I did buy a thin cable to lock it as additional protection to a the U Lock. I also bought a crappy looking cover for the seat.

Fill your hex nuts with either:

aluminum foil+crazy glue (easier to remove if you need to make adjustments).
lead solder (harder to remove, but better theft prevention).

I fill all my hex bolts with this stuff, and no parts *ever* get stolen off my bike since I started.

Buy a folding bike and bring it inside with you.

If you're interested, try talking to these guys: https://www.oemhardware.ca/tamperproof.htm they claim to have metric and imperial fasteners. I don't remember if the microadjusting type of seatpost bolt is a standard metric thread or a more bike-specific one.

I use Pinhead locking skewers, headset, and seat post locks. They work fantastically.

I can't believe it took this long for someone to say Locktite red. Don't you just have to heat it up to break it?

Use a pitlock on the clamp

On your seat clamp bolt, either solder in the head (like the OP did) or red locktite and buy a $8 heat gun from HF.

Loctite red melts at 260C.

The advantage of this is it still permits a bit of easy adjustment from time to time if you change cycling shoes or your saddle gets bumped and askew, or if you have to lower the saddle to get it into a trunk.

Me too. Right now I am using a cable lock through the seat rails and the seat stays.

Another option is to visit your local hardware store and put together something like this:

https://www.bikeregistry.com/estore/p...0d2bafc4a1ea66