I'm a bike noob, I admit it.
I've looked through the forum for the last few days and decided to post a thread for advice. I have decided to start commuting to work. I live 5.5 miles from my office the first section (1.5 mi) is hilly with light to moderate traffic. The rest of the ride is on the shoulder of a major road with a good amount of traffic. There are rough spots and a fair amount of debris along the way.

I am looking for a new bike for this adventure and have visited the local shops. The staff of each have been helpful but with very difference guidance. Some were pushy while others were aloof, in the end one shop recommended a Fuji Newest road bike (race design) The next highly recommended Specialized Tricross (cyclocross) The last recommended Trek 7.5 or 7.6FX (fitness) I ask about the Portland (designed as a commuter) and the employee recommended the 7.6 instead.

I may be wrong but the Fuji seemed limited and may not serve me well. I have narrowed my search to the other two bikes and I'm hoping you guys who have "been there done that" can help a brother out and help me decide definitively between the two- or maybe start over.

https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/2008/road/fx/76fx/
https://www.specialized.com/bc/SBCBkModel.jsp?spid=32203

Some added info to round this choice: I want a bike that could also be used through gravel or hardpack, some greenways, and then some long streight roads for exercise & meditation riding.

Thanks in advance for the help!

Did you tell all the different shops about your need to have a bike that will handle dirt, gravel, and roads? Because if you did, the guy who recommended the Newest is a moron. Handling that sort of a terrain variation will necessarily take a compromise on the bike's capabilities for some part of that - ie, a good bike on road will be a little sketchy on gravel, and a bike that handles gravel well will be slow on road.

That said, it looks like you're in the same boat as me - I'm looking for a commuter to replace my beater, and I want it to be relatively fast on pavement but able to handle some rougher stuff too. It seems to me that you could use anything from a beefier cyclocross bike through a tougher hybrid. There are a ton of cyclocross threads, but Surly's Cross-check, Kona's Jake, and Jamis' Nova seem to be very popular.

A bike I'm looking at that I think might also be useful for your needs would be Fisher's Kaitai (or it's bigger brothers). It has a suspension fork with a lockout, but it looks to be a pretty stiff fork, so hopefully not too mushy. Also, it looks like it comes with tech that makes it very road-worthy, like larger chainrings and 700C rims that come stock with 38mm tires.

I agree with your assessment, if you're thinking of using this thing offroad much at all, I wouldn't get a racy road bike, and I wouldn't get the skinnier-tire hybrids with little clearance for larger tires, fenders, etc.

As for the two you have selected, I don't like the spoke count on the Trek, if you're planning on taking it offroad. The Specialized cross bike looks pretty decent, if you want drop bars.

If you want a 'cross bike, check some of the archived threads and try out some other manufacturers.

I know what you're going through. They want to sell what they want to move not what suits your needs. Go to REI.com and view the bikes by category with features and watch the videos print out the specs of the bikes that fit your needs (commuting, cyclocross, touring etc..) then take those around and say I need a bike comparable to this in this price range that has similiar features. If they don't or won't go elsewhere. Get what you want at a price you can afford. Also try craigslist.

It's not unexpected for shop employees to have opinions as varied as those in this forum. I guarantee that if you return to the same shop and speak with a different person, you'll get a different answer again.

One suggestion? Ask to speak to someone who rode their bike to work - or look for someone with a grey beard...

The problem with helping new people is that you can't always trust their analysis of the situation. For instance "heavy traffic", or "bad roads" or whatever... Your own opinion of traffic/roads/etc will change considerably within first few months of commuting regularly, and continue to change the more you ride.

Anyway......

My feeling is that step 1 should be to decide what type of handlebars you think you would prefer, and what your budget is.

Both a hybrid (trek fx) and cyclocross (portland/tricross) will both do the job - as will about fifty other new models, and hundreds of used ones.

Choosing your handlebars will cut the field in half and make the decision a little easier.

Look up posts from user 'markhr' and check out his comprehensive list of "drop bar, disc brake road bikes".

From what it sounds like with the debris and rough road sections, a sport-touring type of bike or a CX bike will work really well for you. Some things to consider before making a purchase:

- Flat or drop bar. (Drops are more comfortable in the long run, IMO, because of the multiple hand positions)
- What's the weather for your commute? (If it rains a lot, make sure the bike can clear a set of full fenders)
- Frame material. Aluminum can be a harsh ride on rough roads, but if you have wider tires that will smooth things out. Aluminum is good for the rain because it won't rust. Steel is good, but make sure you treat the inside of the frame to rainproof it.
- Tire clearance. Since you're on rough roads, I suggest looking for a bike that can clear 32mm or 35mm tires with full fenders. This will let you soak up the rough roads and ride over worse debris than you could on a narrower (25/28mm) tire.

JeffS,
I am more familliar with the streight bar coming from a mountain bike, so it's comfortable, but I'm willing to learn drop bars. One plus to the Tricross is that it has brake levers on the hood as well so it's an easier transition.

I don't really have a budget in mind, I'm purchasing at least a portion through my company with our Green sponsorship & commitment.

Thanks guys!

If the gravel road is packed and relitivly smooth I don't see why a "road" bike wouldn't work. I think a cyclocross bike woudl be cool (imho). I routinely ride my aluminum specilized Allez on gravel trails, but it's usally no more than a 1/4 mile or so. Being able to have the option of a much larger (35mm) tire would make the cross bike a nice choice.

I would also recommend some tires like the Conti gators or specilized armadillos that are puncture resistant.

Another thing, maybe if you are not sure, buy something used.

Good luck.

Jeff

I've never seen a gravel road that was sufficiently well-packed and smooth to make riding it with a road bike anything but a pain in the ass. If by "gravel" you mean a bunch of tiny pebbles around 3mm in diameter, then you could handle a bit of that. Even then, traction will be poor and you'll want more rubber on the road if you'll be riding more than a short stretch of it. When I hear gravel road, I think dirt covered with rocks that are about 4cm in diameter. If that's the case, you're not going to fare well on 23mm 100psi tires.

My own personal thinking is, if more than a half mile of your commute is rough stuff, leave the racer at home. And I don't say that to diss commuting on road bikes, because I do half the time (like today).

There's a cool spot in the Smokey Mountains called Cades Cove. This valley has an 11mi. loop around it. The park is only open to bicycles on Saturday mornings (Too Cool!)The road is (or was) paved but it has pot holes, dirt, rock, etc. over it. It's perfect for a mountain bike, but my oldest son uses mine so I plan to use the new bike for this and other trips.

Sorry to ramble- the point is- the bike will need to be a Jack of all trades.

Having nightmare flashbacks here...

I took a wrong turn (several of them) and wandered into Cades Cove on my motorcycle one day. Before I realized what was going on, I was too far in to turn around. I spend AT LEAST two hours feathering the clutch on what was basically a race bike, cooking the inside of my thighs while the tourists halted all movement for what seemed like days at each and every animal sighting.

I love the area, but Cades Cove on a car-day has got to be the biggest perversion of "nature" that I've ever witnessed.

My two cents worth. Be sure you get a bike that can take fenders and a rack for your stuff. You don't want to look like a skunk on rainy days and you should let the bike carry your work clothes etc. Before you choose, take the candidates for a decent ride to get a proper feel for each. I'm guessing that the route you intend to ride is the same one as you would drive. Check out some maps, there might be alternate, less busy roads that will get you there with less stress.

My suggestion would be a drop bar bike- either cyclocross, sport-road, or touring- and have the shop install bar-top levers if they are not standard on the bike (should run maybe $30.) This gives you the comfort level of a flat bar in a nod to your MTB background, but you still have the drops there for when you inevitably find you like riding fast on the roads, and start extending your evening commute or going for long rides on weekends.

For that distance,and those roads,I'd go with a hybrid or maybe even a MTB with slicks. Kona's Dew series,Trek's Soho's,Specialized Crosstrails or Globes. Something that won't beat you up and will have low enough gearing to get you up the hills easily until you build up your legs,yet tall enough for you to get some speed once they are. If the flat bar doesn't do it for you,a trekking bar will give you plenty of hand positions,let you tuck in aero,and will only be about a $30 upgrade for bar and tape(all stock controls will swap over).

I recently upgraded to a touring-style road bike. Touring bikes have plenty of room for fenders and racks. The gearing is also a cross between mountain and road, so there is a wide range of gears. They also have wider tires than typical road bikes. The problem with touring bikes is that most bike shops do not keep them in stock. You might have to special order it or order through an internet retailer. jensonusa.com sells a Surly Long Haul Trucker for around $900. rei.com has the Novara Randonee for $950 or if you want really fat tires the Novara Safari for $850. bikesdirect.com has the Windsor Tourist for $600. You can also get a Fuji Touring for $950. The Bianchi Volpe is also a possibility at $1000. Some of those bikes come with racks, but you would need to install fenders.

I commuted for years on a hard tail mountain bike. I replaced the tires with specialized hemisphere EX tires. Off-road tires are not very good for commuting longs distances on pavement, but otherwise the mountain bike was OK. Mine was 15 years old and had no suspension and room for fenders. As others mentioned, fenders are a must. Racks are also good. Lights are a must at night. Bikes with skinny racing tires should be avoided.

I'm in your area, and know many of the shops you're visiting. They are all great places, and will treat you right no matter what you decide to do regarding a new bike.

You'll get lots of advice here on which specific bike is best for you. Look for the bike that fits your primary need the best. If 95% of your riding will be daily commuting, pick something that fits this requirement as best as possible. You'll be able to take that same bike around Cades Cove with NO problem. Many riders go up there at night during full moons and ride the loop, it's a blast! You'll also be able to take the same bike around the Green Ways when you want to get out for a good long day on the bike. Doesn't matter if it is a hybrid, "city" bike, cyclocross bike, touring bike, ect.

When you get comfortable on your bike and if you find yourself wanting to spend more time on longer road rides, consider another bike specific for that task down the road... no need to make compromises right now.

The most important "features" for a daily commuting bike are things others here have mentioned: ability to fit wider than normal tires, potential for a more "upright" riding position, eyelets that allow the use of fenders and racks, potential for built in lighting systems, simplified drivetrain for easy cleaning and maintenance, ect.

Will you be riding at night? Will you ride when it rains? Would you possibly consider an upright "city" bike with all these features built in, including a generator hub so you never have to worry about charging your batteries for lights?

The bottom line is that 5.5 miles is a nice comfortable commuting distance that can really be done on just about any bike. Pick one that will make your ride enjoyable, comfortable, and convenient.

Breezer makes nice "city bikes." Tennessee Valley Bikes near downtown is a dealer.

PM me if you want more info about local shops, suggestions on routes, ect.

Keep in mind that a bike you like now and that is comfortable now, may not be the same in 6 months. In 6 months you will likely be more fit, lighter, and have a much better idea what you want out of a bike. Also keep in mind that once you start commuting, you will likely start other types of riding as well; for fun, for errands, to the store, so forth.

Here is 2 cents about bike shops from someone who completed their first year of commuting and went through every mistake and local bike shop:

I still haven't met anyone that commutes to work at a bike shop. Most of them are avid cyclists, but being an avid cyclist and being a commuter are two very different things. Just keep that in mind when you go into a bike shop.

I have a different point of view. For a 5.5 mile commute on paved roads, pretty much anything will work for commuting whether that constitutes 95% of your annual mileage or 5%.

If for example you find yourself hankering to do the occasional alpine run, then you might want an MTB with a set of slicks for your commute and a set of knobbies for your hobbies. Likewise if you're thinking you'd like to give a triathlon a shot, or a long distance tour, you might want to lean towards a drop-bar road bike. Of course, you could own two or more bikes, and many people here do, but it's not really necessary.

The standard recommendation for a commuter bike is something that will take fenders, a rack, and lights. That doesn't eliminate a whole lot and truth be told, many people successfully commute without fenders, racks, or lights. There's a woman in my office who probably spent a couple of grand on a bike + accessories for commuting. When fall rolled around she dropped another $200 on a lighting system so she could ride in the winter. Well, I don't think she's been on her bike since November so the money spent on the lighting system was pretty much wasted.

I know that a shiny new bike might help get you motivated to commute, but if you don't need that motivation then maybe the best thing you could do is dust off your mountain bike, throw some fenders and slicks on it and commute for awhile on that. Keep note of what would work better. If those hills are killing you, then a lighter bike might be in order. If your hands, wrists, neck, and/or back keep getting sore then may you want a different riding position, or to be able to alter your riding position. Is it windy on your commute? A lower riding position may help. Is ice and snow an issue? Then you'll want something that can take studded tires.

I am a brand new bike commuter, going on three weeks. I went through exactly what I imagine you are going through on selecting from among the huge number of bikes available. I decided to stick with what were termed commuters. In my web search stumbled across the Breezers. Compared them with the REI commuter bikes and my wife and I decided to purchase the Breezers. I got the U frame Uptown 8 and my wife got the U frame Villager.

I decided to get the U frame as it is so much easier to mount and dismount. The bike comes completely equipped as a commuter. The only thing I have added is a bike lock and their bag to put on the rack. I couldn't be happier with my choice. A big factor in our decision was the internal hub gear system. It is so easy to change gears, even when stopped. Everything I can read on the hubs mentions the vastly lower maintenance requirements vs a deraillieur gear system. A mechanic at the LBS where we purchased mentioned, after our purchase by the way, that he has the same system and has never needed to repair or even adjust it after several years. Another mechanic who taught a class to recent buyers of bikes at the LBS how to do simple maintenance and how to change a flat tire, mentioned to me that he had never had one come in for maintenance that required breaking into the hub for repair. This LBS is one of the largest in the nation, so they see their fair share of bikes to be repaired.

The hub generator for the front and back lights was also a selling point for me. I keep the lights on all the time. I can see no good reason to ever ride without the lights. The small difference in pedaling resistance when the lights are on or off is insufficient reason to not run the lights(I can barely detect any difference anyway) in my opinion. As one of the reasons I am riding is for health, the increased resistance, if any, can be considered a plus factor anyway.

One thing that has surprised me is how much fun I have been having riding the bike on the commute. In fact, after only three weeks of riding two to three times a week, I miss not riding the bike on the days that I have to, for other reasons, take the car instead of the bicycle.

People wave to me on the streets and even speak to me. This never occurred when I drove the car. I hear the birds, feel the wind, listen to the quite hum of the tires; I highly recommend it.

Look at the Breezers, they are specifically designed for commuting.