Internally Geared or External Derailer
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 549
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From: illinois
Bikes: surly steamroller - towniefied.
Internally Geared or External Derailer
So I've saving up to build a new commuter when I get home from school in a few weeks and need to decide how I'm going to make my new bike move. It'll be primarily a commuter with potential loaded touring and fitness cycling capabilities.
Key highlights include:
1. Surly Cross Check
2. Cetma Rack
3. Dyno hub + 2x Lights
4. Fatty tires (with fender option - a pair of full wooden Fast Boy Fenders would be nice)
5. V-Brakes (for simplicity and ease of maintenance)
Initially I was thinking of a Shimano Nexus 8-Speed (premium model) would be fun but I've recently begun to look at cobbling together a Campy Centaur centered drive train.
Any suggestions are welcome. Mainly I just need to have someone else's ideas to mull over because I know I'm missing something.
Key highlights include:
1. Surly Cross Check
2. Cetma Rack
3. Dyno hub + 2x Lights
4. Fatty tires (with fender option - a pair of full wooden Fast Boy Fenders would be nice)
5. V-Brakes (for simplicity and ease of maintenance)
Initially I was thinking of a Shimano Nexus 8-Speed (premium model) would be fun but I've recently begun to look at cobbling together a Campy Centaur centered drive train.
Any suggestions are welcome. Mainly I just need to have someone else's ideas to mull over because I know I'm missing something.
#2
My vote is for campag centaur.
Have you thought about a rohloff speedhub instead of the nexus?
Have you thought about a rohloff speedhub instead of the nexus?
__________________
shameless POWERCRANK plug
Recommended reading for all cyclists - Cyclecraft - Effective Cycling
Condor Cycles - quite possibly the best bike shop in London
Don't run red lights, wear a helmet, use hand signals, get some cycle lights(front and rear) and, FFS, don't run red lights!
shameless POWERCRANK plug
Recommended reading for all cyclists - Cyclecraft - Effective Cycling
Condor Cycles - quite possibly the best bike shop in London
Don't run red lights, wear a helmet, use hand signals, get some cycle lights(front and rear) and, FFS, don't run red lights!
#3
Senior Member

Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 2,207
Likes: 45
From: Northern VT
Bikes: recumbent & upright
Hub gearing is nice,
however consider a 1x9 set up; especially for commuting.
It is simple, pragmatic and easy to take care of.
Have about 6k km on my 1x9 CkCx, with an 11-34 RD and 34 t chain ring. Run 42 mm
Marathons in summer and 37 mm W106 when there is ice/snow etc. I'm a FOG living in a very
hilly area, if the terrain were smoother or less rough roads would probably choose 38 or 40 chain ring.
however consider a 1x9 set up; especially for commuting.
It is simple, pragmatic and easy to take care of.
Have about 6k km on my 1x9 CkCx, with an 11-34 RD and 34 t chain ring. Run 42 mm
Marathons in summer and 37 mm W106 when there is ice/snow etc. I'm a FOG living in a very
hilly area, if the terrain were smoother or less rough roads would probably choose 38 or 40 chain ring.
#4
64°08′N 21°56′W
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 100
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From: Reykjavik, Iceland
Look into the Shimano Alfine if you decide to go with moderately priced internal gears. Harris Cyclery has them and probably others. It gives you the option of upgrading to disk brakes later if you should choose to and it's supposedly the best Shimano internally geared hub. I'd also make sure to get a disc ready dynamo hub. If you are/decide to become a year round commuter I think disk brakes make a big difference in snow and wet weather. At least I know my rim brakes suck in snow
#5
Senior Member

Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,453
Likes: 2
From: Brooklyn, NY
Take a look at the 9 speed SRAM I-Motion. It offers a wider gear range than Nexus, more uniform gear steps, better efficiency in the middle gears, and quicker wheel removal/installation with its quick release cable connector.

Given that you're looking at running a dynohub, I'd strongly encourage you to consider the Sturmey X-FDD dynhub/drum brake hub. It offers comparable braking to V-Brakes in the dry, but nothing comes close in the wet, and your brake pads and rims last MUCH longer.

Given that you're looking at running a dynohub, I'd strongly encourage you to consider the Sturmey X-FDD dynhub/drum brake hub. It offers comparable braking to V-Brakes in the dry, but nothing comes close in the wet, and your brake pads and rims last MUCH longer.
#6
34x25 FTW!
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 6,013
Likes: 0
From: NYC
Bikes: Kona Jake, Scott CR1, Dahon SpeedPro
I'm rather fond of the SRAM DualDrive on my folder. 8-speed cassette on a 3-speed hub, one chainring. I suppose I have the best and worst of both derailleur and hub systems that way.
#7
Senior Member

Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 486
Likes: 0
From: Wichita KS USA
Bikes: Surly Crosscheck w Nexus 8 drivetrain set up as a commuter/tourer. Old and quick '89 Trek 1200. 08 Fisher Cobia 29er
based on my very similar experience and bike, I'd go with the Campy 1x9 over the internal hub. My only experience is with the Shimano nexus, and the SRAM does look a lot better.
1x9 is lighter, reliable, cheaper, more customizable, more serviceable, and easy to remove the wheel. Internal hub is heavy, overpriced, and tough to remove the wheel. Unless you want an unnecessarily heavy drive train and never get flat tires on the rear, stick with a dérailleur.
1x9 is lighter, reliable, cheaper, more customizable, more serviceable, and easy to remove the wheel. Internal hub is heavy, overpriced, and tough to remove the wheel. Unless you want an unnecessarily heavy drive train and never get flat tires on the rear, stick with a dérailleur.
#8
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 549
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From: illinois
Bikes: surly steamroller - towniefied.
1. I'd love to get a Rohlhoff but I don't have the budget. :/
2. It sounds silly but I want to avoid using drum brakes because I don't like bare canti posts. If I were to go that route I'd prefer to have drums in the front and back so I can go for NMSW rims.
3. I was thinking about a 1x9 but wasn't sure if that was something that people did.
Well I gotta say I'm leaning more to a derailer system now. That said, do they make drum brakes for cassette hubs?
2. It sounds silly but I want to avoid using drum brakes because I don't like bare canti posts. If I were to go that route I'd prefer to have drums in the front and back so I can go for NMSW rims.
3. I was thinking about a 1x9 but wasn't sure if that was something that people did.
Well I gotta say I'm leaning more to a derailer system now. That said, do they make drum brakes for cassette hubs?
#9
Senior Member

Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,453
Likes: 2
From: Brooklyn, NY
The Sturmey XRD is a drum brake hub for a thread-on freewheel (7 speed).
The only cassette hub currently made for drum brake is the Shimano Nexave with roller brake splines. Given the poor cold weather performance and heavy weight of the Shimano roller brake, I wouldn't suggest it, however.
BTW, if you're avoiding bare canti posts, you can pick up a fork made specifically for drum brakes here:https://cgi.ebay.com/700c-Roller-Brak...2em118Q2el1247
The only cassette hub currently made for drum brake is the Shimano Nexave with roller brake splines. Given the poor cold weather performance and heavy weight of the Shimano roller brake, I wouldn't suggest it, however.
BTW, if you're avoiding bare canti posts, you can pick up a fork made specifically for drum brakes here:https://cgi.ebay.com/700c-Roller-Brak...2em118Q2el1247





