Any experience with drop bar ends??
#1
Thread Starter
An Army of Fred
Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Lost South of Nowhere East of Edan On the Waterfront Far from the Madding Crowd (Biloxi, MS)
Bikes: 1992 Specialized Crossroads Trail
Any experience with drop bar ends??
I have come to the conclusion that I am going to need more hand positions if I plan on riding 28 miles RT on my hybrid. I have thought about the Nashbar Trekking bar, but I find it a little (okay, a lot) funky looking.
I also considered dropped bars, but that gets ugly expensive fast (a lot of things that need to be replaced/upgraded
). My first thought was to get a pair of bar ends, something like these, but then I found these drop bar ends. So does anyone have any experience they'd like to share about these drop bar ends?
Note: If I did decide to go with the drop bar ends, I would, most likely, end up throwing away my current brake levers and go with drop brake levers with cyclocross levers some time in the future. Which would still be a whole lot easier and cheaper than dropping in a new drop bar (and stem, and brifters, and cassette and . . . )
I also considered dropped bars, but that gets ugly expensive fast (a lot of things that need to be replaced/upgraded
). My first thought was to get a pair of bar ends, something like these, but then I found these drop bar ends. So does anyone have any experience they'd like to share about these drop bar ends?Note: If I did decide to go with the drop bar ends, I would, most likely, end up throwing away my current brake levers and go with drop brake levers with cyclocross levers some time in the future. Which would still be a whole lot easier and cheaper than dropping in a new drop bar (and stem, and brifters, and cassette and . . . )
#2
runnin' down a dream
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From: Somewhere out there
Bikes: Turner Flux, Orbea Onix Dama.
Don't know anything about them. I'd question how comfortable they would be on a bike that is designed to have you more upright. What about a pair of bullhorn bars?
BTW - I always liked my bar ends for exactly that reason - somewhere different to put my hands.
BTW - I always liked my bar ends for exactly that reason - somewhere different to put my hands.
#3
Seems like I've seen a pic of someone's bike with those on the forums, but it was a few years ago. If you have v-brakes, drop bar brake levers don't have enough pull. You will have to put on those travel agent thingies. Add an extra $40 to your estimate. Seems like either way you're going to spend some money. I figure with this setup you're looking at over $100 (drop bar ends, levers, travel agents, cables/housing, bar tape, cross levers).
You can buy brand new Tiagra brifters for $145 on Ebay, add in some cheap bars, stem(maybe), tape, cables/housing, travel agents and you've not spent a whole lot more. Plus, you can Ebay the stuff you replaced, allowing you to recoup some of the investment. This assumes you have a 3x9 speed setup now.
What bike do you have now?
You can buy brand new Tiagra brifters for $145 on Ebay, add in some cheap bars, stem(maybe), tape, cables/housing, travel agents and you've not spent a whole lot more. Plus, you can Ebay the stuff you replaced, allowing you to recoup some of the investment. This assumes you have a 3x9 speed setup now.
What bike do you have now?
#4
#5
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I think you would get what you want a lot better with just the ordinary bar ends. In actual practice, few people really ride for great lengths of time on the drops. They are there for really intense, high power spurts. Most of the time, you shift positions between the tops, the curve above the brake levers, and onto the hoods of the brake levers themselves. Most braking is done from the hoods, not the drops. If you want to go with a bolt-on rather than a real drop bar, you would get most of what you want with the ordinary bar-ends. I prefer my road bike, but I have also ridden hybrids and mtn bikes with a flat bar and L-shaped bar-ends. I liked them.
I suspect that the bolt-on drops would not really be in the optimal position anyway. These bolt-on drops for flat bars have been around for ages. I remember seeing them in magazine ads as far back as the mid-1980's. I've never seen anyone actually using any. One of the most comfortable and useful hand positions on drop bars is the right on the curve from the tops to the brake hoods. Just by looking at those add-ons, it seems to me like that position wouldn't be very comfortable. But classic bar ends, on the other hand, give you more hand positions, and you can stretch out nicely without having to be bent over.
I suspect that the bolt-on drops would not really be in the optimal position anyway. These bolt-on drops for flat bars have been around for ages. I remember seeing them in magazine ads as far back as the mid-1980's. I've never seen anyone actually using any. One of the most comfortable and useful hand positions on drop bars is the right on the curve from the tops to the brake hoods. Just by looking at those add-ons, it seems to me like that position wouldn't be very comfortable. But classic bar ends, on the other hand, give you more hand positions, and you can stretch out nicely without having to be bent over.
#6
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Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Hammonton, NJ
Bikes: Dawes Lightning sport, Trek 1220, Trek 7100
I have come to the conclusion that I am going to need more hand positions if I plan on riding 28 miles RT on my hybrid. I have thought about the Nashbar Trekking bar, but I find it a little (okay, a lot) funky looking.
I also considered dropped bars, but that gets ugly expensive fast (a lot of things that need to be replaced/upgraded
). My first thought was to get a pair of bar ends, something like these, but then I found these drop bar ends. So does anyone have any experience they'd like to share about these drop bar ends?
Note: If I did decide to go with the drop bar ends, I would, most likely, end up throwing away my current brake levers and go with drop brake levers with cyclocross levers some time in the future. Which would still be a whole lot easier and cheaper than dropping in a new drop bar (and stem, and brifters, and cassette and . . . )
I also considered dropped bars, but that gets ugly expensive fast (a lot of things that need to be replaced/upgraded
). My first thought was to get a pair of bar ends, something like these, but then I found these drop bar ends. So does anyone have any experience they'd like to share about these drop bar ends?Note: If I did decide to go with the drop bar ends, I would, most likely, end up throwing away my current brake levers and go with drop brake levers with cyclocross levers some time in the future. Which would still be a whole lot easier and cheaper than dropping in a new drop bar (and stem, and brifters, and cassette and . . . )
as far as hand positions, normal cowhorn bar ends seem to be the most useful and cost effective...
I have noticed that you can get the same effect of a "trekking bar" using them depending on where you position them or you can use them like the "hoods" on a road bike (which is what I tend to use when I ride my road bike...)
#7
Thread Starter
An Army of Fred
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,003
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From: Lost South of Nowhere East of Edan On the Waterfront Far from the Madding Crowd (Biloxi, MS)
Bikes: 1992 Specialized Crossroads Trail
BTW, I currently have cantilever brakes, so I don't need a travel agent. However, I do understand about the rather bizarre positioning (it would make it wider than a typical drop bar) and that is something I have to keep in mind.
Thanks for the input.
bsyptak: I roll with a 1992 Specialized Crossroads Trail.
Thanks for the input.

bsyptak: I roll with a 1992 Specialized Crossroads Trail.
Last edited by harleyfrog; 05-02-08 at 09:25 AM.
#9
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An Army of Fred
Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Lost South of Nowhere East of Edan On the Waterfront Far from the Madding Crowd (Biloxi, MS)
Bikes: 1992 Specialized Crossroads Trail
JustBrowsing: I have given thought to the trekking bars, but I'm not sure how I would want them set up on my bike. I have seen a few different configurations, but there's still that nagging bit of doubt in my mind. Part of the reason I'm considering the drop bar ends is for a more aero positioning (we can get some pretty stiff winds down here on the Gulf Coast). 
Worse case scenerio, I buy the drop bar ends, hate 'em, and out about $20. (I wouldn't drop extra cash for new brake levers unless I was happy with the bar ends) then end up buying cow horn bar ends or trekking bars. The flip side would be buying the trekking bar (and possibly a new stem to compensate for the difference in the reach), hate it, and be out about between $30 and $50. (Sorry, just my nature to analyze every last detail to the nth degree.
)

Worse case scenerio, I buy the drop bar ends, hate 'em, and out about $20. (I wouldn't drop extra cash for new brake levers unless I was happy with the bar ends) then end up buying cow horn bar ends or trekking bars. The flip side would be buying the trekking bar (and possibly a new stem to compensate for the difference in the reach), hate it, and be out about between $30 and $50. (Sorry, just my nature to analyze every last detail to the nth degree.
)
#10
If you really want a drop bar, you can scour ebay and sometimes find deals. I have a drop bar and matching 1 inch quill stem for sale now on ebay. See items #330233163601 and #330233160185 if you are interested.
#11
Thread Starter
An Army of Fred
Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Lost South of Nowhere East of Edan On the Waterfront Far from the Madding Crowd (Biloxi, MS)
Bikes: 1992 Specialized Crossroads Trail
It seems like you will need to replace just as much stuff with the drop bar ends than with a new drop bar (except perhaps the stem) if you plan on changing to road brifters. It would be a lot easier to just install the standard bar ends and keep your current brake and shift levers.
The bike I have is fine, but it could use a bit of tweaking, but then again, don't they all?
With the bar ends (either drop or cow horn), I can keep my current shifters (GripShift, which I love) and brake levers until I decide to either keep or scrap the one set of bar ends for the other. And if the drop bar ends do work out, I can than change the brake levers over at that point, but not before.Oh, I should also mention that I'm using my current bike as a proof of concept model. That is: a) can I ride that distance (28 miles RT); b) can I stick to it for the long term; c) figure out what accessories/parts/configurations work and don't work; and d) apply what I've learned towards purchasing a new bike should the answers to a & b prove positive.
I'm looking at the bar ends vs. trekking bar from a cost/benefit point of view (again, that Geek side of me
) as well as a matter of comfort. I think the trekking bar is a cool, albeit funky looking, concept, and given time and money, I'd love to explore all the options in a quasi-scientific manner, but I seriously doubt my wife would agree with me.
#12
Senior Member

Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Hammonton, NJ
Bikes: Dawes Lightning sport, Trek 1220, Trek 7100
well, it could be done inexpensively depending on what you are looking for...
I bought some brake levers (not brifters) for about 20 bucks from my LBS...
I would look into seeing if the gripshifts would fit on the drop bar ends (similar to a "hubbub" described
on sheldon browns website...) I know that walmart sold a "denali" that had gripshifts so I would think they
would fit...
the bar itself shouldnt be too bad... I myself have a drop bar and other parts I cannibalized from other bikes for that similar reason (never throw a whole bike away...) and If I really had to, I also have some
friction shifters which will work with your current setup to see if you like it (that is if the gripshifts won't fit on your bar...)
so really we are talking less than 100 bucks for an upgrade (heck, I spent more for an aero bar that I ended up not liking... but I still have it, just in case...)
here's a link to some road handlebars
https://www.google.com/product_url?q=...hl=en&sa=title
I bought some brake levers (not brifters) for about 20 bucks from my LBS...
I would look into seeing if the gripshifts would fit on the drop bar ends (similar to a "hubbub" described
on sheldon browns website...) I know that walmart sold a "denali" that had gripshifts so I would think they
would fit...
the bar itself shouldnt be too bad... I myself have a drop bar and other parts I cannibalized from other bikes for that similar reason (never throw a whole bike away...) and If I really had to, I also have some
friction shifters which will work with your current setup to see if you like it (that is if the gripshifts won't fit on your bar...)
so really we are talking less than 100 bucks for an upgrade (heck, I spent more for an aero bar that I ended up not liking... but I still have it, just in case...)
here's a link to some road handlebars
https://www.google.com/product_url?q=...hl=en&sa=title
#13
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From: Columbus, OH
Bikes: '08 Surly Cross-Check, 2011 Redline Conquest Pro, 2012 Spesh FSR Comp EVO, 2015 Trek Domane 6.2 disc
A few people mentioned the price of STI/brifters, but if you move to a drop bar you can use a far less expensive option: bar-end shifters.
- cost less
- easy to maintain
- option to switch to friction mode if your indexing goes wonky
I've got 'em on my drops and I think they're awesome.
- cost less
- easy to maintain
- option to switch to friction mode if your indexing goes wonky
I've got 'em on my drops and I think they're awesome.
__________________
"I feel like my world was classier before I found cyclocross."
- Mandi M.
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- Mandi M.
#14
I don't believe I would spend as much for drop bar ends vs. drop bars. If I went with drop bars, I would need new brake levers and shift levers, (or brifters). Since my bike is still stock with a seven speed cassette, I would almost certainly need to upgrade to an eight or nine speed (which means new hub and rear wheel, possibly new derailluer, yada, yada, yada). At that rate, I might as well scrap the bike and get a new bike, but that means I would have to wait to get accessories like racks, lights, etc. to outfit my bike for commuting. (head + wall + bang, bang, bang)
The bike I have is fine, but it could use a bit of tweaking, but then again, don't they all?
With the bar ends (either drop or cow horn), I can keep my current shifters (GripShift, which I love) and brake levers until I decide to either keep or scrap the one set of bar ends for the other. And if the drop bar ends do work out, I can than change the brake levers over at that point, but not before.
The bike I have is fine, but it could use a bit of tweaking, but then again, don't they all?
With the bar ends (either drop or cow horn), I can keep my current shifters (GripShift, which I love) and brake levers until I decide to either keep or scrap the one set of bar ends for the other. And if the drop bar ends do work out, I can than change the brake levers over at that point, but not before.
#16
I think you would get what you want a lot better with just the ordinary bar ends. In actual practice, few people really ride for great lengths of time on the drops. They are there for really intense, high power spurts. Most of the time, you shift positions between the tops, the curve above the brake levers, and onto the hoods of the brake levers themselves. Most braking is done from the hoods, not the drops. If you want to go with a bolt-on rather than a real drop bar, you would get most of what you want with the ordinary bar-ends. I prefer my road bike, but I have also ridden hybrids and mtn bikes with a flat bar and L-shaped bar-ends. I liked them.
I suspect that the bolt-on drops would not really be in the optimal position anyway. These bolt-on drops for flat bars have been around for ages. I remember seeing them in magazine ads as far back as the mid-1980's. I've never seen anyone actually using any. One of the most comfortable and useful hand positions on drop bars is the right on the curve from the tops to the brake hoods. Just by looking at those add-ons, it seems to me like that position wouldn't be very comfortable. But classic bar ends, on the other hand, give you more hand positions, and you can stretch out nicely without having to be bent over.
I suspect that the bolt-on drops would not really be in the optimal position anyway. These bolt-on drops for flat bars have been around for ages. I remember seeing them in magazine ads as far back as the mid-1980's. I've never seen anyone actually using any. One of the most comfortable and useful hand positions on drop bars is the right on the curve from the tops to the brake hoods. Just by looking at those add-ons, it seems to me like that position wouldn't be very comfortable. But classic bar ends, on the other hand, give you more hand positions, and you can stretch out nicely without having to be bent over.
#17
A few people mentioned the price of STI/brifters, but if you move to a drop bar you can use a far less expensive option: bar-end shifters.
- cost less
- easy to maintain
- option to switch to friction mode if your indexing goes wonky
I've got 'em on my drops and I think they're awesome.
- cost less
- easy to maintain
- option to switch to friction mode if your indexing goes wonky
I've got 'em on my drops and I think they're awesome.
#18
I would rather have one good position than three marginal ones.
What problem are you having that you think drop bars will solve?
Have you given serious consideration to:
- a bar with some sweep to it?
- something like the titec H-bar?

- something like some ergon grips on your current bar?

------
I'm certainly not a fan of converting a mountain bike to drop bars, but if you did, noone says you have to buy brifters. Bar-end shifters are cheaper and mean you don't have to change anything else on the bike.
What problem are you having that you think drop bars will solve?
Have you given serious consideration to:
- a bar with some sweep to it?
- something like the titec H-bar?

- something like some ergon grips on your current bar?

------
I'm certainly not a fan of converting a mountain bike to drop bars, but if you did, noone says you have to buy brifters. Bar-end shifters are cheaper and mean you don't have to change anything else on the bike.
#19
Thread Starter
An Army of Fred
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,003
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From: Lost South of Nowhere East of Edan On the Waterfront Far from the Madding Crowd (Biloxi, MS)
Bikes: 1992 Specialized Crossroads Trail
tjspiel: Yeah, I currently have flat bars. If I had the money to spend, I would convert over to drop bars, but I'd much rather spend the money towards commuting accessories rather than ergonomics and drive train. (Trust me, one would lead to the other domino style). Therefore, the less money I have to spend the better. And since I never used any form of bar end before, or trekking bar for that matter, I have to basis for comparison. I do trust the input of the folks here, which is why I asked. I know all too well how some concept looks great on paper but when applied does not live up to expectations.
#20
Thread Starter
An Army of Fred
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From: Lost South of Nowhere East of Edan On the Waterfront Far from the Madding Crowd (Biloxi, MS)
Bikes: 1992 Specialized Crossroads Trail
JeffS: For one, headwinds. Also, I'm considering a new bike in a year or so, if I can commit to bicycle commuting during that time, and a touring or cyclocross bike would be great for the distance I have to ride. As it is, I'm trying to make what I have work for me rather than against me. The other issue is simply to have a change of hand position, period. An hour (more or less) in one position can wear on a body. Maybe I'm just too out of shape at this point, but I really want to make a serious effort at commuting by bike, so I need to weigh my options on outfitting my bike.
And, yes, I have looked at the Ergon grips before and like the looks of them.
And, yes, I have looked at the Ergon grips before and like the looks of them.
#21
JeffS: For one, headwinds. Also, I'm considering a new bike in a year or so, if I can commit to bicycle commuting during that time, and a touring or cyclocross bike would be great for the distance I have to ride. As it is, I'm trying to make what I have work for me rather than against me. The other issue is simply to have a change of hand position, period. An hour (more or less) in one position can wear on a body. Maybe I'm just too out of shape at this point, but I really want to make a serious effort at commuting by bike, so I need to weigh my options on outfitting my bike.
#22
You may have done this already but before making sweeping changes to your bike I'd just commute a few weeks without changing anything to see how it goes. Give your body some time to adjust to it and then figure out what needs changing.
#23
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From: Big Ring. Little Cog.
Bikes: 2005 Dahon Speed TR, 2006 Dahon Mu SL, 2000 GT XiZang, 1999ish Rock Lobster, 2007 Dean Animas CTI
I, for one, hope you get the drop bar ends - I'd like to hear some first hand use comments on them.
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#24
Thread Starter
An Army of Fred
Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Lost South of Nowhere East of Edan On the Waterfront Far from the Madding Crowd (Biloxi, MS)
Bikes: 1992 Specialized Crossroads Trail
tjspiel:Actually, I'm in the process of conditioning my body for the ride, which is what prompted this in the first place. (Sorry, that could have come out better.
) I don't want to sound like I'm complaining or anything. I mean, I am looking at a flat commute, albeit with few east-west options, beautiful South Mississippi summers, one route that goes along the beach and all the sights it presents
, etc. It's just hard coming back from about 15 years off the bike to get back into the swing of things. I know I have to potential to ride the distance; heck my longest ride was about 70 miles in college and that included a hellacious hill climb early in the ride and on an old Specialized Hard Rock at that.
It's just going to be awhile to get back into that kind of shape. 
Oh, and reading the posts on this forum has been a great inspiration, so thank you everyone.
) I don't want to sound like I'm complaining or anything. I mean, I am looking at a flat commute, albeit with few east-west options, beautiful South Mississippi summers, one route that goes along the beach and all the sights it presents
, etc. It's just hard coming back from about 15 years off the bike to get back into the swing of things. I know I have to potential to ride the distance; heck my longest ride was about 70 miles in college and that included a hellacious hill climb early in the ride and on an old Specialized Hard Rock at that.
It's just going to be awhile to get back into that kind of shape. 
Oh, and reading the posts on this forum has been a great inspiration, so thank you everyone.
#25
Thread Starter
An Army of Fred
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From: Lost South of Nowhere East of Edan On the Waterfront Far from the Madding Crowd (Biloxi, MS)
Bikes: 1992 Specialized Crossroads Trail
dalmore: Yeah, it might be worth it to get both style of bar ends just to do a comparison review. And since both styles are under $20, I could probably swing it past the spousal unit.
Thanks for the idea; I'll let you know what I decide..
Thanks for the idea; I'll let you know what I decide..




