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Quick Release wheels

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Old 05-21-08 | 07:56 PM
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Quick Release wheels

I just bought a 1980 Centurion Le Man, they come with quick release tires. Should I be concerned with theft for the tires? If I am, what type should I go for.

Most bikes I have seen have the nut and bolt; is this enough to deter thieves? Also does replacing it require replacing the entire skewer and axle?
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Old 05-21-08 | 07:58 PM
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Stealing just the tires would be unusual, but wheel theft is common. Best option if you can't take the bike inside with you is locking skewers.
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Old 05-21-08 | 08:04 PM
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Thieves will take anything that's easily detachable.
you can use pit locks, or skewers that require a tool to remove the wheel.
but the best method is running a lock through both wheels and frame along with no QR parts.
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Old 05-21-08 | 08:40 PM
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I worry about this often, since pretty much any quick release anything is removed from bikes in rather short order on campus. Seats, wheels, etc. Often times, you'll see the discarded frames of bikes that have been stripped down - though the one I'm thinking of sat there for more than a semester. But, wheels and seats are hot targets and for that reason I run my cable lock through the seat rails and the front wheel as well as the frame. That whole mess gets locked to the bike rack when I get to work or class.
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Old 05-21-08 | 09:24 PM
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From: I live in Columbia, SC

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I lived in a town in a third world country renown for bike theft. Nothing is going to stop a determined vandal or thief but the more chain and cable I wrapped around the bike the better off I was. I usually took the bike indoors with me but when I could not I would chain that puppy up with chains and locks that at least looked impressive. I took the seat in with me, and depending on where I was and how long I was gonna be there, the pedals too. Now I live in the USA and I checked with my agent and my homeowners insurance covers my bike if it is stolen. I love America.
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Old 05-22-08 | 01:52 AM
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Yeah, I meant the wheel.

I currently go to college, and commute to and from school, and between classes; I may not have too much time to lock the front wheel, frame, rear wheel, and the saddle all together all the time because that would be too time consuming and maybe several locks to carry.

Is there a full name or brand that I should search for, for the pit locks and skewers that require special tools to release or unlock?
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Old 05-22-08 | 06:35 AM
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Originally Posted by lewt539
I currently go to college, and commute to and from school, and between classes; I may not have too much time to lock the front wheel, frame, rear wheel, and the saddle all together all the time because that would be too time consuming and maybe several locks to carry.
Maybe you don't have enough time to bicycle, then.

Every area is different WRT bicycle theft, but in general I wouldn't be too worried with someone stealing the front wheel off a 28-year-old bike -- assuming it's the original wheel. I just got a new bike with nice wheels, so I'm double-locking with a u-lock through the frame and a cable for the front wheel. That seems to be plenty, and it takes less time than it takes a driver to park their car. What I observe in Boston is that most people don't lock the front wheel, and almost nobody takes the saddle with them -- and the only time I've seen bikes with missing wheels is when they're abandoned junkers. I don't routinely park my bike on college campuses, though, although Boston is lousy with college students no matter where you go. The thing about college kids is, there's almost always someone who's got a nicer bike that their parents bought them and who's too busy to spend less than a minute locking it up, so they provide a nice amount of "low-hanging fruit" for thieves. Remember, I don't have to outrun the bear, I just have to outrun you...
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Old 05-22-08 | 07:01 AM
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@lewt539, in all seriousness it takes me less than 30 seconds to uncoil the cable lock and string it through the seat rails, frame, front wheel and whatever I'm locking my bike to. I don't currently use a U-lock with that, however that'd only be another 15-30 seconds anyways. At first when reading 'lil brown bat's response I thought it was harsh, but really if you don't have a spare minute to lock up your mode of transportation, perhaps you need to rethink your plan and find a minute or two.

@lil brown bat, the 'low-hanging fruit' concept is exactly how it works around here. Bike theft and vandalism isn't running rampant, but it happens, and more often than not its either those who have abandoned their bikes, those who have nice bikes but barely take any precautions in securing them, or those who don't lock them up at all. A friend of mine picked up a bike from the side ditch in a road and cleaned it up. It was a beat up girl's bike, but he enjoyed not having to walk everywhere on campus. He rattle canned a matte black finish over everything (I mean everything, he's kind of a weird guy like that) but didn't buy a lock. It was stolen during his first class period. Same concept, he left it unlocked, so someone took it - didn't matter how junky of a bike it was, just mattered that it was unlocked.
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Old 05-26-08 | 03:37 AM
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Ok, I think I am just going to replace the skewers with a hex nut or a skewer that requires a hex key to release. Which do you think are safer or less common for people to carry around; a wrench or a hex key =P. A skewer that requires a hex key sounds nice, but I can't seem to find it on common bike shop websites like Performance Bikes and Nashbar. Anyone know the exact name for those, or a particular brand that makes them?

I don't want to use the complete locking ones that requires the special key, like PitLock as I don't want to risk losing the key or not carry the key with me, and not be able to release the wheel or repair a flat in an emergency.

I'm using the Centurion steel wheels, I don't think it's a target of theft compared to the new aluminum wheels around. But if I were to lock 1 wheel and frame, should it be the front or the back? The front would be easier to remove, as the back requires getting the hands dirty with the chain and derailer; but the back wheel is the more expensive one with the cassettes.
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