Have to agree. I was worried when I set up my Gunnar with barcons, but now I have two bike with barcons and one with brifters. I like barcons better. I occasionally do hit one with my knee, but no big deal. Aero levers feel better to my hands.

So a Kona JTS is like what $300 more than this bike? Why would you go with this over the JTS if that $300 is immaterial?

Thanks dude

I love the arrangement as it is in the pics, it really works for me. I can shift and brake simultaneously at least as easily as with the Dura-ace brifters on my roadie. And yeah, the aerobars are there just to be able to get the weight off my wrists when the old carpal tunnel pain flares up, and to deal with the occasional monster headwind.

If you're interested, those brake levers are made by Dia-compe, they're specifically designed to pull V-brakes with no need for adapters.

Geez, I've stumbled across a LHT lust-fest! Count me in, 'cause I love mine, too---with barcons.

Alright everybody - here she is!

https://www.onelessindenver.blogspot.com

Thanks for your help!!!!!!!!!

Nice ride! I hope you enjoy it!

I do have two small criticisms, though, and I don't mean any disrespect here, but:

1. I think your rear rack installation could have been a little better. If you can't get your old rack to be parallel to the ground, then you should consider getting a different one.

2. You may want to reconsider messing with the headset very much. One of the reasons the bike is pretty comfortable is that you're a little more upright than you'd be on a road bike. As long as your back is at a 45 degree angle when you're on the hoods, you're probably okay. If you need to be more aerodynamic, that's what the drops are for.

[QUOTE=bragi;7313254]Nice ride! I hope you enjoy it!

I do have two small criticisms, though, and I don't mean any disrespect here, but:

1. I think your rear rack installation could have been a little better. If you can't get your old rack to be parallel to the ground, then you should consider getting a different one.

Yup. fully aware of that. For now my cheapo rack will do, but when/if we do some touring next year it will be getting replaced. Trying to keep the cash flows reasonable....

2. You may want to reconsider messing with the headset very much. One of the reasons the bike is pretty comfortable is that you're a little more upright than you'd be on a road bike. As long as your back is at a 45 degree angle when you're on the hoods, you're probably okay. If you need to be more aerodynamic, that's what the drops are for.

Good point. I think I could afford a slight tweak - this is a personal preference more than anything, in my opinion.

Thanks!

James
https://onelessindever.blogspot.com

More LHT love (but they're obligated to of course):

https://www.surlybikes.com/2008_08_01...14059160012273

A better question [perhaps]:
Has anyone ridden a LHT for a substantial length of time and not enjoyed the experience?

About this time last year, my brother bought an LHT frameset and built it his own way. He, like myself, has many bikes, but now he very, very rarely rides any of his others. There's just no reason for him to because the LHT does everything better than all the others. IMO it's easily the most versatile bike you can get for the money. In fact, I may be ordering my own LHT frame very soon. Here's his (without the racks)

Here's BoiseShwin's Long Haul Trucker:
https://www.bikeforums.net/commuting/449762-heres-different-take-surly-long-haul-trucker.html

It looks like he cut the fork so it rides more like a road bike.

If you get one avoid the dark cherry pearl version. The paint is way too easy to chip. I know of another rider who has the same problem. My paint was flaking off like crazy as soon as I got it. I have had other surly frames and have not had this problem. It must be something specific to that color. Otherwise its a great bike and I would recommend it.

Is this still made? Can't find it on REI's site.

I have a Dark Cherry Pearl that has had no problems with the paint finish. I think some shipments had better finishing than others. I believe the reason they stopped using the colour was because of problems with maintaining a consistent finish from the suppliers.

A pity, because it's a lovely colour.

So I have a question. If you could save 15% off on a new LHT complete, but would need to do the unboxing/assembly yourself, but would not have a regular bike shop to go back to if something goes wrong, would it be worth it? The numbers would be about $760 vs $984.

That's not a bad deal. It depends on how much you've worked on bikes in the past. If this is your first time setting one up, I might recommend sticking with your LBS. I think you will have to cut the stem, install the star nut in the fork tube, mount the fork properly, setup the brakes (including toe-in on these cantilever brakes), and maybe adjust your derailleurs. Make sure you're sure you can do all this properly. Oh, and grease in all the right places as you tighten things down so they don't bind up on you sometime down the road. Lots of stuff you need to do correctly.

I bought my first bike at a shop, my first frame online, my next bike online, and my last one (Surly LHT) from my favorite LBS. The advantages I got from the shop are 1) they cut the stem and did all the assembly, 2) they mounted other stuff I bought from them like fenders and aerobars at no additional cost above purchase price, 3) they swapped out tire and put the Schwalbe Marathons that I wanted, 4) they swapped out brake pads and put salmon KoolStop pads on, and 5) they added a PlanetBike SuperFlash rear blinkie. Cost as list price plus the cost of the aerobars and fenders. List price included the blinkie, Marathons, Koolstops, and assembly. I was very pleased with this level of service.

Also, I spent a good bit of time discussing sizing and geometry with the shop owner. I was riding a 55cm road bike, and was torn between 54cm LHT with 26" wheels, and 56cm LHT with 700c wheels. He convinced me, based on measurements off my road bike, to go with the 54cm. I could not have made a better choice.

Good luck with whichever path you choose.

I have worked on a few bikes, as it is the money I made flipping bikes over the past year that has given the financial means to purchase a new bike. I an not afraid to doing the mechanical set up, but am trying to weight the convenience of someone else doing it (and having them to go back to if something isn't right) vs my time in doing the setup and then any tweaking that might be needed.
Ben

They had 2 of them at the one in Schaumburg IL (suburban Chicago) when I was there a few weeks ago.

I've seen one at REI in Denver too. They should be around.

That's what I'm looking for - I like that look a lot. Gonna have to talk to the LBS tomorrow.

I may be imagining it, but I seem to remember that many QBP complete packages arrive with a pre-cut steerer?

Interesting. I look at that bike and think why it looks so much better than mine (same colour frame, brooks saddle and leather bar tape)
Than it dawns on me: all contrasting stuff is metal color: Rims, spokes, hubs, fenders, brakes, headset spacers, seatpost. Mine are all in black. Next time I buy an LHT, I will make sure they are all in metal color. Oh, wait that will be, like, never.
Duppie

Not so with the LHT. I think some LBS' might cut the steerer if they don't know any better but usually it remains uncut until the purchaser gets the position dialed in. I think most (?) people leave it uncut.

Not sure, but the Surly site lists the complete LHT with an uncut steerer tube.

That's mostly my understanding as well. I know my LBS told me that they cut about 5mm off the steerer on a 60cm LHT they build for another guy. Not sure what they did with mine, but they're going to be cutting it today most likely.

James
https://onelessindenver.blogspot.com