If I wanted >2000 lumens, I would use my

Light & Motion Seca 700
DiNotte 600L
Dereelight DBS V2 with the OP reflector and 1S R2 pill
Olight M20 Warrior Premium
and my crummy TrustFire MC-E
and I could throw my Fenix L2D Q5 on for good measure

Normally, I haul the Seca 700, the DBS and the Olight. I've also begun taking along the MC-E, although it's such a low-quality light that I expect it to fail eventually.

I regret to say that my digital camera is no substitute for human eyesight There is also a paradox regarding human vision... if I just want to see down the roadway as far as I can, I can see as far or farther by using the Dereelight DBS alone at about 245 lumens out the front, as I can with the DBS plus the Seca 700. Because the DBS puts the brightest illumination at the far end of its beam, and my eyes "auto-level" to that, and then that's where I see best. Excessive light in the foreground is actually counterproductive if I want to see farther down the road.

This is one reason I don't use the DiNotte 600L for road riding anymore. Too much light close to the bike, and not enough light 4-6 seconds down the road. It's like driving a car with only the fog lights, instead of the low-beams. A great off-roading light, but it doesn't suit my preferences for road riding.

I'm always hearing stuff go flying from under the tires that I didn't see, day or night. It's not merely a lighting problem

Not to change the topic, but seriously... how come they don't offer more computers that are backlit?
I mean seriously, Timex's Indigo type light has been around and would be more than sufficient for me anyway.

A watch isn't bouncing all over and you can hold it right up to your eyeballs. It probably takes a bit more juice to adequately light a computer.

That and I would guess the majority of computer buyers are daytime riders.

To me, it's the wrong question. The right question, to me, is "what is the minimum width tire that makes you confident you can roll over anything in your path that you could possibly not see"? Because you're just not going to see *everything* riding at night unless you have a lighting system that costs about $1000 or go stupendously slow.

To me, the answer is about 1.5" (37mm) tires on a paved road at 20mph with a reasonable light (200L Dinotte). To knock that down to 23mm tires, we're talking about a much brighter light and much lower speed.

So in winter, counterintuitively, I go much faster on wider tires than thinner. I roll over all kind of bumps, potholes, tree debris, rocks, etc that I may not see on the nice wide things.

Dunno I spent around half of a $1000 US on an Iblasst https://www.nightlightning.co.nz/endurenz%20details.htm and can see pretty much everything.

But agreed I still feel "safer" hitting bumps with front suspension with my MTB than I do with my road bike
and it's 700x32 tires.

But I still go over 30miles an hour at night on both bikes.

Nah. You're still looking at this (no pun intended) from the perspective of poor lighting. You can spend $40 on a P7 and get 500 lumens of lighting. Buy 4, and you're putting out 2000 lumens for less than it costs to buy a Dinotte 200. You don't need $1000 lighting to break 500, 1000, or even 2000 lumens. Just takes some unorthodox approaches (LED flashlights or DIY) to get there.

That said, I agree with you that wider tires make bumps easier, but that's no different during the day or during the night. I'd enjoy riding fat tires over the bumps on the MUP or sidewalk cracks or crummy roads here, but skinny tires help me maintain higher speeds, so it's a tradeoff.

where is the metric version?

+1, I hit 40 just the other night on an unlit downhill just last night.

my spedometer has a max speed record on it and considering I wouldn't dream of hitting 40 on a flat there's a good bet that that's my downhill speed

Thank mechBgone. FYI, I use just one L&M light, very satisfied with it.

There is only one rule here that means a damn thing.......NEVER OVERDRIVE YOUR HEADLIGHT!