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You can break some kinds of belts to install/uninstall: link belts.
http://www.woodcraft.com/articles.aspx?articleid=381 But I suspect the anti-vibration qualities of the belt (links can move a bit wrt each other) make it probably unsuitable for use in this application. Maybe. |
Originally Posted by I-Like-To-Bike
(Post 7880379)
Must be something in the MI gravel. I also bicycle all winter (though winter is still a month away down here) under somewhat similar conditions to you, without the gravel. I never clean or wipe down the chain and only spray on more teflon or silicon when the chain starts squeaking/ or feels "gritty" while pedaling. I have done this routine for many years and have never had even one link "freeze". After about one year of use (approx. 5000 miles) I replace the chain with another $5 chain from xmart. Works for me.
I can't argue about them using it though, it does form the next best thing to pavement for cars to drive on. Due to this material, I only get 1800 miles out of a chain if it's winter or it's very rainy. If it stays dry and warm my chains last many hundreds of miles longer (I've had them last up to 3000, but it doesn't stay dry and warm forever). |
I'm in love. The Soho with 8 speed hub and fenders looks like a perfect bike for me. I'd love to test ride it, to see what the belt feels like.
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I guess I'm missing something. Several people on here have commented that because you cannot break a belt the rear triangle of the bike has to come apart?
Seems to me you could either have a horizontal dropout like most internal gear hubs or single speeds OR a belt tensioner. You dont take apart your entire engine to replace a belt on a car......it has a tensioner. |
Originally Posted by gosmsgo
(Post 7884857)
I guess I'm missing something. Several people on here have commented that because you cannot break a belt the rear triangle of the bike has to come apart?
Seems to me you could either have a horizontal dropout like most internal gear hubs or single speeds OR a belt tensioner. You dont take apart your entire engine to replace a belt on a car......it has a tensioner. The belt has to pass through the rear triangle, but not the whole belt, only one side of it. The rear triangle actually passes through the middle of the belt/chain. Have a look on your bike, it's pretty obvious ... once you're aware of it (we tend not to think about it). Richard |
Funny Bridgestone did belt drive like what 20 years ago? it was on a folder I think.
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Originally Posted by europa
(Post 7884914)
The belt has to pass through the rear triangle, but not the whole belt, only one side of it. The rear triangle actually passes through the middle of the belt/chain.
http://www.deltacycle.com/images/cdbig2.jpg http://www.deltacycle.com/images/cdbig4.jpg |
Originally Posted by I-Like-To-Bike
(Post 7880394)
Must be a Canadian thing. Never heard of knife wielding vandals doing their thing to random bicycles, ever.
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More of an Urban thing. ;)
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Originally Posted by DCCommuter
(Post 7885508)
I've had my brake cables cut by random vandals.
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Is this the part where the weight weenies start dancing? A belt has to weigh less than a chain. Think of all those cumbersome grams that could be saved.
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Originally Posted by acapybara
(Post 7886395)
Is this the part where the weight weenies start dancing? A belt has to weigh less than a chain. Think of all those cumbersome grams that could be saved.
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All I do to the chain is lube it and wipe it down. Currently I'm using DuPont Wax+teflon spray, but I've used ProLink and a few other things in the past, and also 30W motor oil cut with mineral spirits. I was thinking about trying Rock 'N Roll Absolute Dry, but it says it's not for use in dirty conditions. I was thinking maybe I'd try Phils Tenacious oil or something. In the end it seems I have two choices - Run a dry lube, and the chain gets inundated with dirty salt water and freezes solid, or run a wet lube, and the chain keeps working but attracts more dirt. I've been running dry for over a year but I think I'm about to go back to a wet lube - at least the chain always bends (unless I haven't lubed for a REAL long time, like 2 weeks). |
Originally Posted by dynaryder
(Post 7885500)
Delta got around this by changing the triangle on their CDrive bike:
Richard |
Originally Posted by ItsJustMe
(Post 7879362)
...I'm concerned about snow, ice sand and dirt getting built up in the belt. ...
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I'll be interested to see where the whole belt drive thing goes, but I'm not holding my breathe as far as belts becoming mainstream.
Perhaps I'm missing something, but can't you get all the benefits of a belt drive with a chain enclosed in a full chaincase [very low maintenance] at a much lower cost? I tried a shaft drive bike and it wasn't particularly appealing from a weight or efficiency stand point and I haven't really seen much come of that type of drivetrain. |
Originally Posted by dynaryder
(Post 7885500)
Delta got around this by changing the triangle on their CDrive bike:
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Originally Posted by Bezier
(Post 7876538)
You're supposed to lube your chain every week? Well I be damned.
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Originally Posted by ItsJustMe
(Post 7879987)
No, but it's winter, and I'm riding over 8 miles of gravel road per day, and the paved roads are salted and wet. No matter what I do to the chain, they're covered with salty water and grime within 2 miles of leaving home. The only thing that could save me would be a full chain case - then again, even that might just make it harder for me to clean the dirt off.
All I do to the chain is lube it and wipe it down. Currently I'm using DuPont Wax+teflon spray, but I've used ProLink and a few other things in the past, and also 30W motor oil cut with mineral spirits. I was thinking about trying Rock 'N Roll Absolute Dry, but it says it's not for use in dirty conditions. I was thinking maybe I'd try Phils Tenacious oil or something. In the end it seems I have two choices - Run a dry lube, and the chain gets inundated with dirty salt water and freezes solid, or run a wet lube, and the chain keeps working but attracts more dirt. I've been running dry for over a year but I think I'm about to go back to a wet lube - at least the chain always bends (unless I haven't lubed for a REAL long time, like 2 weeks). Honestly, the belt business might be a good deal for cold, wet, salty conditions. |
http://www.carbondrivesystems.com/overview.php they show how the sprockets work to keep out the snow.
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Originally Posted by vik
(Post 7899993)
Perhaps I'm missing something, but can't you get all the benefits of a belt drive with a chain enclosed in a full chaincase [very low maintenance] at a much lower cost?
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I'm a bit leery of a belt drive for two reasons. First, the break in the frame. Second, the potential issue with gravel. In the motorcycle world, belts + gravel = bad. On my bike I tend to ride through rougher offroad type stuff often...cutting through ditches, offroad trails etc.
I'd like to see how they respond when gravel gets in the belt. My fear is that it would jam the drivetrain, leading to a potential crash. I guess if you got a full "belt"-case to go around it this wouldn't be a problem. |
Originally Posted by d_D
(Post 7903891)
I wouldn't be surprised if the assembly costs of fitting a chaincase is a big reason trek are using belts.
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one thing they mention is that when you get your pants stuck in the chain, they get greasy. Only thing is, when you get your pants stuck in the belt, they get stuck. So you still have to keep your pants out of the belt.
I'm starting to think about this. I had a lot of trouble with my chain on friday, I guess the bike was just the right temp to freeze water in the freewheel or the chain would skip. By the time I got to work, I could only use 1st gear. |
I don't see any good reason why one couldn't come up with a case to cover the belt drive that would protect from gravel, ice and snow, UV rays, stray pant legs, and even knife wielding vandals, and eliminate the noise problems that sometimes come with ill-fitting chaincases and loose chains. Of course then you wouldn't be able to show off the newfangled belt drive. Maybe for version 2.0 ;)
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Originally Posted by DogBoy
(Post 7903986)
I'm a bit leery of a belt drive for two reasons. First, the break in the frame.
Originally Posted by DogBoy
(Post 7903986)
Second, the potential issue with gravel. In the motorcycle world, belts + gravel = bad. On my bike I tend to ride through rougher offroad type stuff often...cutting through ditches, offroad trails etc.
Originally Posted by DogBoy
(Post 7903986)
I'd like to see how they respond when gravel gets in the belt. My fear is that it would jam the drivetrain, leading to a potential crash. I guess if you got a full "belt"-case to go around it this wouldn't be a problem.
If someone posted that they got a rock in their belt drive and it caused them to crash,I would call BS. |
Originally Posted by dynaryder
(Post 7907708)
The belt would stretch slightly,the rock would ride around the pulley,and then be ejected.
I think I'm going to build myself a frame with the special dropouts if I can find them. |
I own a folder that has a belt drive- the belt is greasless so you don't get chain grease on your work clothes. It has a Sachs Torpedo 2 speed overdrive hub. The belt is generally more reliable than the chains with less maintenance-but the lack of grease on the clothes is the main benefit. I find the belt will slip under the stress of a steep climb.
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Originally Posted by meb
(Post 7913528)
I find the belt will slip under the stress of a steep climb.
then a new belt is in order. If a toothed belt are the "teeth" solid on both the belt & sprokets? In both cases is the belt tight? |
Originally Posted by vik
(Post 7899993)
Perhaps I'm missing something, but can't you get all the benefits of a belt drive with a chain enclosed in a full chaincase [very low maintenance] at a much lower cost?
I like the belt concept, but I think it will always be more expensive because I understand that belts require finer tolerances than chains. |
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